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>> Home > Tags > brush

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Bargain of the year by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 hours ago
46" RAF Crash/Fire Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £300 for the lot – Don’t miss this great opportunity Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way Bargain at £300 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £265.

KD Perkasa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Looks just right Steve. You will never want to use any other combination for a power setup. Do check your coupling and motor mounts, my small Crash Tender brushless worked loose - not good. Dave

KD Perkasa by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Hi Steve, Great job on the Perkasa! There's a big difference between the lead acid and the Lipo. The Lipo and Brushless combination is a winner! Ed

KD Perkasa by cormorant Commander   Posted: 21 hours ago
I acquired this boat part built some months ago through Dave M. I have not put too much scale in detail but I am quite pleased with the overall finish. It is powered by two brushless 1250KV out runners and in the first sea trials I used 12v lead acid batteries. (That video was posted a few weeks ago - mdlbt.com/26793). This video shows its second sea trial after I was persuaded to use lipos. The difference in performance is very pleasing. Thank you Dave M for your help and advice during the build.

2 motors 1 esc by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
I was looking at these as motors. using 12 volts. 3 - pole electric motor with integral cooling fan and high quality carbon brushes. Two flux rings offering high torque motor. Originally specified for Black and Decker power tools, these motors are of the highest quality and recognised as one of the most useful model motors currently available . Suitable for 6 - 12 volt applications. No Load speeds approx. 4.8V 1.7A 8500 RPM 6V 1.9A 12000 RPM 7.2V 1.9A 13500 RPM 9V 2A 20000 RPM Dimensions: L65mm, D36mm, Shaft diameter 3.2mm Off load Current: 1.57A

WPB 110 by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27"/1600g WPB 110 Capable of 11mph and a runtime of 70mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a TURNIGY (4 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through TURNIGY (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Madonna has a laminate structure. 1:75 scale. Without brush engines fitted Turnigy two regulators and the same brand. Controlled by the rudder, back and forth, lighting, and lights.

2 motors 1 esc by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
If brushless no you can't. If they are brushed motors it's possible but they need to be matched closely otherwise one will run faster than the other. Ideally you need to try the motors side by side measuring the current drawn and speed. If you have a local supplier with several motors available this may be possible but not on-line. The ESC will need to be able to supply (ideally) double the stall current of both motors. If this is not on the label with the motor you can connect one of them to your chosen battery with an ammeter in series and briefly grip the shaft between two pieces of wood and stop the motor. The reading when stopped is the stall current but this should be for a max of 1 second to avoid damaging the motor. Multiply this reading by four and that is the max amperage for the ESC. It may be cheaper to buy two ESC's and use a Y lead to connect to a single Rx channel. This will also lessen the effect of using two identical but possibly mismatched motors. Hope this helps Dave

MFA Avenger kit by 2435mick Seaman   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi, I have for sale a new and unused MFA Avenger kit, it is all fibreglass, the box has been opened but thats as far as it got, all parts are still in their original wrappers/bags. I will never get around to building this and would like to see it go to someone who will construct and finish it to a high standard. Designed around the MFA 12v motor, I think a brushless would be much better or a glow conversion (3.5cc to 8.5cc recommended). Looking for £70 plus post (courier about £9) will sort a photo of box if anyone wants to see it

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Fiberglassing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.

dicky motor by marlina2 Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
It may be a transmitter/receiver problem or it may be in your drive setup that rears its ugly head once your on the water and your motor is under load. I had a similar problem with a twin motor setup which was fine out of the water but after 10 mins in the water I would lose drive to one or both props or one would slow down and just go round in circles (very embarrassing). I had no problem with radio setup so it had to be in the drive chain. I ended up changing both motors for ones with more armature poles, higher torque output and a different gear ratio. It also highlighted a problem with my first choice of battery which quite frankly were pants and used to produce similar symptoms as you describe. I now use Lipo power packs, they do have disadvantages but you can not knock the power to weight ratio. The main problem I was having appeared to be down to the 3 pole motors that were fine until they were under load, this caused the motors to overheat which in turn increases the current drain on the battery's, the net result is the motor starts to arch across the commutator and effectively becomes a dead short which in turn shuts down your ESC's or drains your battery's very quickly. As you probably know if this was to happen with Lipo's there would be no need for a smoke generator! Of course this only applies to brushed motors if you are using a brush-less motor then it will probably not help you.

SEA JET EVOLUTION by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Master-construction water scooter from Robbe. 2 pieces brushless motor, 2 pieces brushless controller, lithium-polymer battery 5000 mA. Amazing driveability, incredibly stable rate of around 60 kilometers per hour. Battery life in full power for about 15 minutes.

SEA-JET EVOLUTION by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Master-construction water scooter from Robbe. 2 pieces brushless motor, 2 pieces brushless controller, lithium-polymer battery 5400 mA. Amazing driveability, incredibly stable rate of around 60 kilometers per hour. Battery life in full power for about 15 minutes.

Suspected Seam by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Beat me to it, I have used WEP and scrap plastic, to strengthen all joints in a Plastic TID tug, Corvette and my latest build Vosper Gun boat.I used a small jam jar as issued with my toasted tea cake at Costa coffee, just cut up some scrap plastic into jar, pour in enough WEP to cover, seal jar with lid leave over night, then using a cheap brush paint inside and in your case outside joint, after cleaning surfaces first. My TID tug, has stood up to of many a knock, with no leaks so far, apart from when my Brother ran it down with his RC yacht and she turned turtle took on water and down she went , after a quick rescue and trip to park gents to use its hand drier, she was soon back sailing, joints still intact :-)

First post... by WorcesterModelBoatCl Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Yeah it's been run a fair few times its very powerful and could easily emulate the final bluebird act (the crash) took a lot of getting right but I have access to some very technical facilities for testing to which I'm very grateful as it saves alot of time. I have started no.2 which has a custom EDF to replicate the ret roar and water dispersion out the back but also a huge watercooled brushless motor to get her upto speed quicker. They draw alot of attention when they come out to play I spent 18 months getting mine spot on. It comes out to play every so often just not an everyday lake visitor.