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Hi Alan, I, too, am building a Clyde Puffer. Mine is scratch built ,and same scale as yours. I have installed a 6:1 brushed electric motor. I wanted scale speed . The shaft length was 11" from memory. Interested in how you get on. Clyde puffers were lovely ships. Cheers Hugh
Hi canabus, could you please tell me what brushless motor's you have in your, Sea Hornet,Sea Commander and Sea Queen pelese. I have all three of these as well. Somewhere down the line I will be converting those to brushless. I don't understand all the electrical data myself. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico and she is awesome on the water at full speed. I have purchased the same motor and speed controller as what is in her to put in a new MFA Spearfish that I still have on the shelf in my work shed. I look forward to your set up's.
Hi Andy Slightly more power with a brushless motor is a no go!!! Brushless motors the same size are far more powerful !!! But, the about same RPM a Turnigy L5055-700kv(500 rpm more on a 4S(14.8 volts) Lipo battery would be a good replacement. Mind you at 1600 watts( about 2 and 1/4 HP) these will used in a large boat like a 46" Vosper Crash Tender or a 46" Sea Queen!!! My move into brushless motors I have found that they are 7 to 10 times more powerful and equal to, if not better than the old IC motors!!! My Sea Hornet, Sea Commander and Huntsman run brushless motors . My Crash Tender is getting the 5055 motor, so it will be interesting to see what it will go like!!
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
Planking done, deck stained, some deck detail added (most detailing will follow painting and varnishing). Hull has had a good sanding with wet n dry and has had the grey primer added. Have also given the bottom of the hull a coat of red oxide primer. Following this and any blemish removal, I will get the airbrush fired up for Tamiya hull red for the bottom and then humbrol midnight blue for the upper hull sides. This will be separated with a strip of white trimline before adding rounders and lettering prior to laquer.
Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. If your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.
Hi Andy, I have 'twined both the 34" and the 48" Huntsman, i used 600 size motors in the 34, and 850 motors in the 48. Both were very quick, but, the run time was poor, about 10 mins. With modern lipo's or big Nimh batteries they would be a lot longer especially if you used brushless motors. Props, on the 34, they were 35mm x 3 blade brass, on the 48, they were 45mm x 3 blade brass. Sad but i sold them some years ago but now have a 48" fireboat to play with. Mark
Am in process of building a Sea Queen, but not with supplied motor, will be fitting a brushless. Based on the motor and the voltage it is likely to be about 400 watts output, which is about 5 times the supplied output. My concern is the supplied prop shaft which is 18" long and 4 mm dia. is there likely to be 'whip' in a shaft of that length ? Was considring a larger diameter, but that brings in the problem of obtaining propellors M4 and M5 are common. Or can one get prop shafts with centre bearings. What have other people done ? Or are my fears unfound, I remember the days when prop shafts were mild steel not stainless and bent easily.
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark
Hi Boatshed , Yes all MFA seem great boats . As for the Spearfish I have a Thumper Overlander in mine 2nd hand and cheap . If you want the wow factor in yours look to fit a Leopard brushless in runner as the result is fantastic . Look it up on YouTube couple of films of one ripping round a pond 👍
Hi Pilot If you are using 540 can size (35-36mm brushless motor) a 3639-1100kv 800watts, 3648-1450 1600watts or a XK 3674-1900 1769 watts. All run on 100Amp ESCs, but check the maximum voltage they handle. I use car ESCs with the electric fan on top because they run cooler at slow speeds and no water plumbing required. The same with the motors no cooling. Props for these motors 37mm 2 blade or 40-45 mm 2 blade. If you go for a larger motor for a larger prop, a L5055-700kv 1600watts same ESC, but, start with a 2 blade prop about 52mm. Battery a 3-6S 5800mah or more with a C rating of 40 plus. I have used the 35mm motors in 34 to 40" boats, but, for my 46" Vosper Crash Tender I am going to the 5055. To large a prop will cause over heating of the ESC, battery and Motor. A in line amp meter(Hobbyking 9598000004-0) is the one in use. It reads the maximum amps, so for run speed amps slow speed up to maximum as a hit the throttle hard will give you maximum amps. Canabus
Hi JJ. Just a word of warning, your Mtronics esc will not work with brushless motors, also 20amps is close to its limit with twin motors and fairly large props, performance wise, brushless is the way to go, but will need 2 esc's, wont run with one, if your dropping hints to the elves, spec your motors at about 700 watts and 600-700kva great torque with good revs at 7.2v even better at 12v Mark