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>> Home > Tags > brush

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Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local model shop whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. It was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit. With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now. Boaty😁

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Bon chance mon ami👍 Don't know what TX you have but you may be able to do the mixing there. If not there are several separate mixer boards on the market. This one for instance; Action Electronics P40D from Component Shop. It's good for both brushed and brushless motors😊 See pdf data sheet. Mode 1 might be good for Brave Borderer!? http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/Mixers.html https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p40e-marine-motor-mixer.html Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Longer run time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by randhbarker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I am using 1 12v lead acid battery in my sea queen with a brushless motor. It’s only giving me about 15 minutes on the water. The boat will get up and go for a few minutes but after that I can have the throttle wide open but the speed has gone. Can I link more than 1 battery together to give me a greater voltage which I believe a brushless motor can cope with. If so which batteries should I use and should I wire in series or parallel? I await your thoughts Thanks

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. Installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?

Enterprise 6 by Kevin-56 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
This was a scratch build from plans that I have had for along time. I have modified the plans to suite a boat similar to the Ocean Alexanda. She is 1380mm long and 310mm wide, driven by two 2150kv brushless moters. This boat took me 18 months to complete,and now is ready for her maiden voyage. Will let know how she performs.

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Martin, You do like living dangerously don't you!? 😉 Why don't you ever buy anything from the same manufacturer to be sure it will work, or have the chance of regress if it don't! Anyway, since you've been an' gorn an' dunnit - Ignore the PPM, that just means Pulse Position Modulation. A type of TX modulation waveform that you don't need for the Spektrum TX. Forget the Stat as well. I suspect that that should be SAT for a Satellite RX. No that don't mean you can watch telly on it😉 It's just a connection for a secondary RX. Never ever seen one in action! The others are the usual aircraft / chopper functions in a particular TX Mode, so you can ignore the labels. We can use the channel outputs for whatever we want in a boat. Attached is a description of the binding I found in an RC flight forum. A little bit Chenglish but clear enough I think. Your Simprop 18A job should be more than man enough for your Supermarine. I don't expect that it will eat more than 10 or 12Amps. Put a 15A fuse in the + supply between motor and the mod board that makes it run ahead & astern; i.e. the + output of the bridge rectifier. That will protect the motor coil and brushes. Put another in the + from battery to ESC to protect the ESC and rectifier. Rectifier should be rated at least 20A peak forward current. 30A might be better in case your Supermarine is hungry! In that case use 20A fuses. 10A was enough for my little Target 😉 See attached pic for the mods to the Supermarine. Connections from the rectifier board to motor are- + and - of the rectifier go to the brush terminals. Of the two ~ (= AC) one goes the field coil. The other goes to the - wire from the ESC. + from the ESC goes to the other end of the field coil. If the motor runs wrong way (with respect to throttle stick) just reverse the brush wires as usual. Don't forget the suppression capacitors, you may not need 'em due to the spark suppression by the rectifier but ... JIC😉 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers,Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Doug, sorry, missed this one. I have the Taycol Supermarine for the CT. I have a Simprop 18 Amp Brushed ESC and a couple of big uns with cooling which I will photograph and attach to another post. I have just received the new Rx. It's a Storm S603, but it has plugoles that I am not familiar with. At one end it says PPM, then Batt, Aux, Gear,Rudd,Elev,Aile and Thro, with the bind socket sideways under the throttle end and something else with a wee gold pad next to the bind plug socket. But at the other end of the case there is a port marked STAT. So PPM and Stat are new to me. I had a gander on Youtube, but no explanation. Naturally being Chinese there are no instructions. Anything I should bear in mind before I try binding it to the DX5e? Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Colin, thanks for the kind words. The Miss Britain III is all aluminium. Thin sheet, either Litho plate or K&S Metal centre. The Miss America X is sanding sealer and yacht varnish, brushed on with a sable brush. MBIII is 1/12th scale. MAX is 1/8th. Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf. If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish. Cheers, Martin

Bow wave suppression by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Floating Voter, I do so agree that I should be flying, not ploughing. In fact, she does plane quite well, but she is 'dirty' at very high speeds.I am concerned that sooner or later, I will have electrical problems, despite trying to be careful not to overuse the throttle. She is fitted with 2 x JP EnErG brushless 600 O/R 1550 (C35 141), driving 38mm scale-type brass three bladers, contra-rotating. The pack is a 7.4 v, 30C lipo.

What do you do when... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Morning Doug Yes gotcha. I was thinking heavy magnet like a speaker magnet. OR arrange a relay with a double throw switch to reverse the current and hence the motor. Piece of P-ss for you mate.Just have enough weight to avoid tangles as you strip the line from the reel and fine synthetic string better than fishing line. It is less likely to be pinched in the roll on the drum. Also more scale.You may want a speed controller or esc perhaps. Or just rely on the gear ratio. An old brushed motor would do I think with about 4volts.You may still need a pawl to prevent the load stripping line when power is off the motor. I hope I tickled your little grey cells mon ami. Bon chance👍

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
hmm you have a good point Martin but one small problem, the old motor turns well by hand but I have not been able to get it to go electrically. It's probable that the brushes aren't making contact with the commutator.