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>> Home > Tags > brush

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It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 hours ago
Hi Les, funny we've come full circle, I started my model sailing at newsham park back in the late 50s and was there at the beginning of "The Liverpool model POWER boat club back in 1964, when I was 14 years old. Notice the power was omitted from the clubs name approx' 15 years ago. In 1964 i had just completed my first aerokits sea scout complet with an ED seagull 1cc diesel, this club was where I met most of my mentors and founder members of the club, Jimmy Walker, Cliff'Broadbent, Monty, Oscar Poulson etc etc all now sadly gone to that big lake in the sky where anything goes. I'm in southport now and do go back to newsham from time to time. Thank you for that bit of very interesting info'. The afore mentioned sea scout has just undergone a major re-fit after 55 years, the 1cc diesel has been replaced with a 3940 kv brushless and 60 esc running on 11.1 lipo, yes I know all to big for a little 24inch sea scout, but as the yanks would say " there ain't no substitute for C.C. Boy", you don't have to use it but nice to have. Martin you mentioned the old glue used in those days, the sea scout I made was glued using "caskomite" (can't remember the correct spelling) the boat is still 100% waterproof with no skin separation at all, I do not intend tarting the boat up at all, prefer to keep it the way a 14 year old boy (me) had made it apart from bringing the running gear up to 21st century and something that can be used at my local lakes. Norman.

Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
No sweat😉 Hope it all works out. BTW: Canabus got me started on brushless last year. He answered my plea for help upgrading my old Sea Scout. Everything he recommended is now fitted and works a treat, with power in reserve. 😊 All the best, Doug 😎

Motor size advice by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Morkullen I suggest a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv 35mm brushless motor with a 60 Amp ESC and a 2 blade 40mm prop. Battery a 3S Lipo 5800mah 25C will give you more than 1/2 hour. I had his setup in my 34" Sea commander with very good performance. Canabus

getting a bit slow?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Mornin' Martin, just to refresh your memory- "Couplings by Westquay Admiral Posted: 1 year ago Isn't it funny how I used my Crash Tender 53 years ago with 27 meg R/C and never ever had any interference problems. Now the fashion victims all want those ugly little cans from Mabuchi or brushless, suddenly the lovely old Taycols are unusable. Rubbish. If modern R/C is that fussy we haven't moved on at all. Maybe because I have an unbroken link to the Taycol and the Crash Tender I see no reason to just give in and use modern stuff I detest. I have never been a fashion victim and I am not starting now. I think this and any other model boats forum and I have reached the limits to our mutual usefulness. I'm off to do things my way. Where I've had help, thanks. Otherwise?............ Martin"

MTB379 by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 39" MTB379 Capable of 14mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries - Comments: This model was originally built by my father in the 50's for i.c. power. It was laid up in 1962 and remained inactive until two years ago. At that point, I egan recommissioning it, fitting twin brushless motors in place of the deafening single glow motor and straight-cut gears. I also added a great deal detail that my dad had never added. It performs very well nicely in this guise with the added drama of a throttle-linked digital sound system.

It's a sad day!. by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
I can well imagine how you feel about your i.c. models. My recent renovation/recommissioning of my late father's Vosper MTB is kind of ironic in that it last ran in 1962 when noise suddenly became an issue. Mind you, it was VERY loud. My rebuild, needless to say, was centred around brushless motors and lipo's. But I also put an excellent sound system into it as it was so quiet. The system, by Action Electronics and is nice and loud as per the full-size but it does seem ironic that I felt the need to put sound(noise) back in! I use lots of small diesels in free-flight model aircraft and still hugely enjoy getting them 'singing' and savouring the wonderful smell in the car going home afterwards!

It's a sad day!. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I used to use Blackheath pond South London but last time I went there with a boat I had just come off the pond after clipping the pond side and bending my prop shaft,The local park ranger pulled up in a van after someone making a complaint. The boat isn't noisy as the cooling also runs out of the exhaust. He told me I was very lucky as if he had actually seen it running on the pond it was an £80.00 fine. He saw me lifting it off the water but engine wasn't running. I don't understand it as some of the boats I have seen running with brushless scream more than my 26cc PT109. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico she isn't too bad on noise, I also have a Graupner Rhode Island with a brushless outboard but she is still untried on water up to now.

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks you guys for your replies, my old club used to have a wonderful system which was:- on the hour electrics could use the water and on the half hour I.C. Had the water, it worked great👌everybody was happy😁. However several years ago it was decided to ban all I.C.s. It's a shame because I've never seen the crowds of public spectators a Sunday of "flatie" racing used to draw, small highly tunes boats racing around three boys😭. Never mind onwards and upwards with brushless and lipos.

It's a sad day!. by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I have liked Stormin post as I think we should have the right to sail with I/C, I spent a great day with a model boat club when I was in Florida in one of there public park's and it was mostly I/C with a few brushless boat's. No completes from any members of the public.

It's a sad day!. by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Stormin I think it's the same in a number of countries. We changed to brushless and Lipo's. All my IC motors are in a draw sleeping

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Yes I've decided to sell most of my I.C. Boats and engine, because of this "nanny state" that we live in now. Probably 95% of clubs and sailing waters in my area(Liverpool) stipulate No I.C.s, l'm not traveling 50 miles to sail when in reality I've got several clubs and lakes within 5 to 10 miles from my home. I started model boat building in the 50s with balsa models and on to "aerokits" sea urchin, scout, rover, commander, and the holy grail the sea queen all of which had diesel or petrol engines. Granted we have come a long long way since then with electric and brushless motors, I do use them in both planes and boats, but there is still something to be said for the sound smell and reality of an I.C.engine in a boat, aircraft aren't to bad at the present, until they ban them to. Sorry for the rant but that's the way I feel.😭

Fibreglass the hull by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges – To be continued

Spray painting hulls. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
A synthetic Lawyer, Colin. Ain't they all, mate, ain't they all? I always use enamel as I hate anything water based except my tea. I have a middling sized compressor and tank and use a spotting gun. I could use a bigger spray gun, but I'm too tight with paint wastage. It's silly expensive stuff. Having said all that i just primed my sailing model of Vanity with a brush. Went on a treat, but the final gloss coat of good old British yacht Black will be sprayed. Martin

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I had understood that this was an 'old motor'. Could have meant decades! Quote: "old Brushed motors MFA850" But an extra .047 across the terminals won't hurt. Re: Fail Safe; a common problem as 99% of sets are pre-programmed for the Fly boys. First thing I do with a new set is delete all the presets for fixed wing / Heli and reprogramme to do what I want and on the stick, switch or knob that I want. Throttle Fail Safe on a plane is often equivalent to throttle stick right back since plane ESCs don't go in reverse the motor just stops. Can have some interesting effects on a boat ESC with reverse though !!!😲 Happy Trialling 😎

Sea Commander restoration tips by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Laurence-Moar MY Sea Commander had a brushless 3639-1100kv motor on 3S 5800mah Lipo battery with a 60 Amp ESC and a 40mm 2 blade CNC prop. Very good setup, a bit over scale speed. Run time a half hour flat-out. The boat runs better with a bit of bow down sitting still in the water. The battery position about aft of frame B3. I swap my boat for a nice fishing boat( Artesania Latina HELLEN). Canabus