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>> Home > Tags > brushed motor

brushed motor
540 motor
brushless motor
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motor cooler
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torpedo 850 motor
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Intermittent radio problems by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Rob, only other element left is the servo! Which would have been my first thought anyway! So- Put the original RX back, use the same TX and change the servo. Put the RX antenna as far forward as possible, i.e. keep it well away from ESCs, motors and the rudder servo. Also keep any servo signal cable well away from ESC / Motor power cables. Route 'em port and starboard. Sounds like the servo motor might be on it's last legs. Not man enough for the job? 🤔 BTW: brushed motors? Motor suppression? TX battery low? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: 2mHz!😲 Wow! That's a wavelength of 150 million km😲 Where do they attach the other end of their antenna?? Jupiter? 😁😁😁

Fittings & Detail Parts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Pete, Afraid you've found the chink in my armour😲 I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild😲 Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc. Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the bearings, refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' 😉 Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' 😉 I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical😉 Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days. PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. If it's good enough for NASA ..... ? Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/ I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting😊 There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft. The jury is still out on that! A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube bearings, a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor bearings (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug 😎

17-28 Torbay Severn Lifeboat by lesfac Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Pugwash1 Thanks for your comments. I am no expert in motors but I think its a given that brushless motors out perform brushed motors and lipo batteries out perform lead acid and nimh batteries. Therefore if you want a model that can pick its skirts up ang go you put brushless motors with lipo batteries. If your model is not meant to rip around the pond then I dont know how to look at the pros and cons of brushed versus brushless or the merits of the different battery types. Les

What Li-po? by Yngvegr Seaman   Posted: 21 days ago
I have been away from this hobby for a long time, but got inspired to get this garage-sale find running. It is a Graupner Commodore, 1970's motor yacht, 70 cm long. It came with all radio, motors, batteries and all, everything works, except the batteries are really old. So I am thinking about replacing the batteries with Li-pos, but what size should I have? The motors in the boat are 2 Mabuchi 540s. Are there problems running brushed motors with Li-pos? Thankful for all advice! :)

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

Krick Police Launch by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 27 days ago
I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

S 100 Schnellboot RC build by boaty Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a liking for Italeri kits myself. Built the Vosper MTB in 2011 then the PT 109 a few years later. They really perform well either with single or triple props. Both of mine have 480 brushed motors, single props, and 2s Lipo 2200mAh. Ideal for small ponds where you can maintain scale speeds and if easy on the throttle you can have a decent endurance before the battery goes flat. Boaty😁

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I had understood that this was an 'old motor'. Could have meant decades! Quote: "old Brushed motors MFA850" But an extra .047 across the terminals won't hurt. Re: Fail Safe; a common problem as 99% of sets are pre-programmed for the Fly boys. First thing I do with a new set is delete all the presets for fixed wing / Heli and reprogramme to do what I want and on the stick, switch or knob that I want. Throttle Fail Safe on a plane is often equivalent to throttle stick right back since plane ESCs don't go in reverse the motor just stops. Can have some interesting effects on a boat ESC with reverse though !!!😲 Happy Trialling 😎

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Novagsi0, From the video and pics I see two problems! 1. Ship the fenders before sailing. They seem to be throwing water up onto and into cabin and cockpit. 😆 Bad practice to sail with fenders out anyway. 'Just not done old chap' 😉 2. You have a brushed motor and no spark suppression so it can create interference with the receiver and may also directly affect the ESC. Look here for info on motor suppression. https://model-boats.com/rc/motors/suppression Cheers Doug 😎 PS: think maybe you should raise the coaming around the deck access as well! Making it as tight a fit as possible.

CB90 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
CB90 Model boat, 52 inches long performing 360 degree rotation on its own axis. The Combat Boat 90 (CB90) is a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet. Powered by two 9.6v Graupner 700 turbo motors (no-longer in production). Two Mtroniks Viper Marine 25 is a Brushed Speed Control designed specifically for use in RC model boats, it has a 25Amp motor limit and has proportional forwards and reverse functions

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

First run for 2018 by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
It wasn't my best video because of trying to do it my self and control the model. I will try again after moving the motor back a bit. Few people perhaps interested in the performance of these old Brushed motors MFA850 so I will do it.

RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 34"/2500g RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a Bullet 30 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 24v 15A Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Ebay job £50 Old Vintage Aero kit 34in Fire boat needing a lot of attention, with delaminating plywood, old glue, old glow-plug engine mounts with electric conversion, and after removing a metal shield I discover an vintage (1970,s Ripmax Bullet 30 Motor the dogs bollocks of electric racing of its time capable of running 24v at 15A. 300W for a brushed motor. Started by revamp rear pit by lowering servo and rudder and building sub deck, storage lockers, tow hook and ladders. Remount the motor with an aluminium mount with custom screw positions. Block windows with 1mm ply. Foam front half of hull to make unsinkable. Make centre decking area. Repair and build up on cabin roofs and walls to centre deck. Rewire add ESC and servo. Remove broken and unusable fittings such as large vents, some missing unable to match again. Problems with old gloss paint crazing the modern spay paints. Build some fittings eg Water cannons, life belts, Build new battery trays, Painting the boat now in progress as of 20/04/2018 Boat has be roughly painted but is not finished, as fittings are now required, added a RC system an gave it a test run. the performance was adequate on 14.4v and great on 17.2v see latter pictures on the pond. the motor did get hot after about half hour of use. the motor is rated at 24v but I think a smaller prop will be required for that voltage. Excellent performance from a brushed motor. Added some stickers and I have now added a 12v fan and ventilation between cabins as the motor required some cooling and was in a sealed compartment.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

Hacker-trinity by BigAlio Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi guys new ebay purchase listed as bare hull only when it arrived it came with full fitting set and speed 600 brushed motor. bought it because of paint job and for some fast electric fun all for just £24.00 should go well with brushless set up.