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>> Home > Tags > brushed motor

brushed motor
540 motor
brushless motor
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DPI Silencer ( aka Tiddler 616) by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
From the DPI (US) kit, tempted to upgrade to a brushless but goes like otznot with the fitted brushed motor though !

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
I know this will sound very basic to experienced members, but my question is; If I want to use an "MTroniks" Viper Marine ESC, which is rated at 12 volts, and a similarly rated brushed motor, how can I easily get 12 volts out of two 7.2 NiMh battery packs? As you can surmise, my electronics expertise is zero. Brian Hill.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Grandpa Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Yes I see what you mean about needing removable rigging. You opened the deck exactly where I figured would be best do the job. The new mini rc gear similar to the Footy hardware will fit nicely. A small brushed motor would be my choice too. Did you use lead shot for ballast? Such in the attached photo?

USCG 44 foot Rescue Craft by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Billings kits built 2016 2 brushed motor, 2.4 ghz radio and crew members from Realmodelpilots.com

Twin Motor Perkassa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Richard I'm going to be blunt here, no intention to offend, but, You get a donation of some random ancient 4BA prop, you are no further on, as you are stuck with one prop. You have yet to decide which size prop will suit, and, as time goes by, and you consider updating your drive train, that 4BA is going to continually hold you back. Get it out, a new propshaft, 4mm, or even 5mm (all my boats run 5mm) might even fit your original outershaft and away you go. Slightly off topic, but, the cost of very average brushed motors and yesterday technology is now more expensive than Brushless, which is way more efficient, I wonder how much longer the model shops can survive touting this over priced dated equipment, RC Boats is the only RC discipline holding on to this out of date technology. Back on topic!🤐 You could also see if you have any room to cut the threaded end off, and visit the local engineering shop, get them to thread the end 4mm or whatever suits. I remember beiung in exactly the same position on my first serious boat, my 36" aerokits Fireboat, build in the sixties by my uncle. I was with my mate, and mentor, having the exact same conversation, I was holding on, saying I'm not changing the shaft, he dropped something on the floor, I bent down, when I stood up, he had a pair of molegrips dragging the propshaft out, I could have cried, but never looked back. I then did extensive testing with a load of cheap props, and when I got it sorted, treated myself to a real nice brass prop, size based on the testing results👍

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
the scoop should be fitted behind the prop so prop wash is driving water through it whenever the motor is running and the cooling coil fits around the motor join the two up with fuel tube etc. then the other end of the coil connect to an outlet ( unless you want a self filling boat) http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cooling-coils.h... http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000029.pl?REFP... As to sitting on your boat you could put it in the water and get some one to hold it while you run the motor up and watch the current used. closing off the cooling vents to an electric motor not used in a speed model shouldn't be any problem if you have the correct prop an electric motor should only get hand warm. The temps you indicate would have burned out your motor even if there had been no covering over the motor at all. With an electric ( brushed) motor the more you load it the higher the current flow and the hotter it gets. Stall current tend towards infinity you have what I think is a 60mm prop and that's a BIG prop being 3 bladed makes the situation worse since there is increased blade area against a 2 bladed prop. If you intend to use that prop then get a motor man enough to swing it.

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
At the risk of being repetitive get yourself a watt meter that way you can see how much current your motor is drawing. If a motor overheats you are either running to high a voltage or to big a prop. If you are intending to push the envelope you can buy a cooling coil to fit over your brushed ( or inrunner brushless) motor and use a water scoop thus water cooling your setup.

Griffon 2000TD by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 40" Griffon 2000TD Single Propellor Direct Drive to a 600 Brushed Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) Batteries Controlled Through Unknown ESC - Comments: Built to a Mark Porter plan with further information from the Model Hovercraft Association. Constructed mainly from lite ply. Two Speed 600 brushed motors, one for lift and one for thrust. Two ESC's. Rotating radar scanner plus navigation & flashing blue lights. Painted in Canadian Coastguard Markings.

Twin motor control problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
On the face of it its impossible however since it occurs we must accept reality. So brushed motors how is the suppression? Your statement about nothing connected to the water metal prop shafts and tubes? metal rudder shaft and tube? If you have a multimeter see if one of your prop shafts has a voltage. It has to be some effect of conduction and the prop shafts are the obvious conduit.

Swordsman hull by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson 600 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (80Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts More to follow

NorStar Kingfisher by Grandpa Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
I installed a Graupner brushed 600 motor in my boat but am not sure the best size of prop to match up with it. How do I make a wise choice?

1/35 Vosper MTB by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Doug This is a project being built with his grandson. It is perfectly feasible to run with just one engine and use brushed motors and NiMh batteries. Direct drive would work fine. Only a small boat so installation need to be kept light. I do believe when someone asks a question and states a preference it is more helpful to suggest how they can achieve their goal. Your suggestion about LiPos and brushless miss the point completely.

1/35 Vosper MTB by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Tica, From the question posed it was a sensible proposal. Please don't give up on offering help. I was not aware that RC gear needed to be set up for brushed motors or otherwise. I use mine for both brushed and brushless applications and I also have electronic ESCs as well as the old variable resistor types.

1/35 Vosper MTB by Grandpa Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
All of my motors are brushed alonag with NiMh batteries and chargers. My preference is to use brushed though I am aware that brushless motors take less space as do the batteries. If someone could provide clarity for RC conversion using the single brushed motor, I’d appreciate hearing from you.