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>> Home > Tags > brushed

brushed motor
brushless motor
Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Mornin John Re detector circuit: It's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though 😉 Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Thanks, Doug, the blue brushless is held by something that grabs the smaller cylinder and the rest spins round, ergo, outrunner. If I ever make a lightweight I might try one in there. The brushed 400 I will try in the Sea Hornet. Gotta be worth a try. And that Simprop should be OK for it, n'est ce pas? What concerns me is the lack of sizes available in props. They all seem to start at 35mm which might be a little too hefty for the 400, but I can't find a 30mm anywhere. I also found the Hornet II I carved a while back with a view to getting it scanned for frame sections, so that's another wee job to finish off. I am looking forward to doing that one. Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Attached the Graupner Speed 400 specs. Pic 1 is the brushed version nominal 7.2V, pic 2 the brushless nominal 11.1V. Don't think the brushless 400 is any good for your Hornet, not enough shove? Ca 14400rpm OFF LOAD with a 3S LiPo. The brushed version might be though. It should run OK up to MAX 9.6V. Try 'em and compare. The 62mm in the TP2408 seems to include the shaft length! It might well drive your Hornet but maybe not record breaking😉 The other, blue one, might! But who knows as it's anonymous 😲 On closer inspection I suspect the blue one is an inrunner!? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: Specs for your Simprop ESC "5 bis 10V. Strom: 12A (25Amax). 5-8 NiCd / NiMH. BEC: 5V/1A.Gold-2mm Buchsen. Maße: 27x11, 5x8, 5mm. Gewicht: 5g. " I.e. 5 to 10V, Current 12A (25A MAX). So OK for your Taycols on a 6 to 9.6V NiMh👍 Not sure if it does backuds though, probably not!

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a gearbox with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the gearbox was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! It's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. If I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, Lots of factors to take into consideration, 1 specification of motor 2 voltage to be used 3 size and weight of the boat 4 speed you wish to achieve 5 Current limitations (20A) Besides the above if it is a brushed motor and your limit is 20A I would opt for a propeller of 30mm to 35mm (low pitch). The old rule for Brushed motor is do not use a prop any bigger than the diameter of the motor. the bigger the prop/pitch the more current and a hot ESC. Act with caution, put a 15A fuse in line just in case to protect your ESC. It is difficult to give advice there are lots of unknowns.

SA Valour Class Frigate by Joburg-sailor Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 Mtroniks 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. Idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!

Range Safety Launch? by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Some Pictures for reference a RAF 43ft Range Safety Launch pennant '1640' and '1651' were built by 'Thornycroft' at Hampton in 1955. The Model Looks good, adding some detail and fittings will make it look great, bear in mind its a heavy boat, so you may wish to think about brushless motors and Lipo batteries, they will be a lot lighter and smaller than the 800 brushed, and lead acid batteries but you need to get advice before going down that road.

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
The ‘Range Safety Launch’…………. Intro. I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail. Advice is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable. There are two main reasons for sharing this project. 1. I will undoubtedly need guidance 2. Maybe some of the information will assist others The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs). It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /fire monitor appliance. At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing…… However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’. There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in. If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’. Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show. NPJ.

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
A chaque un a son goût John 😉 I'm not tooo surprised at your NiMh results. But I also think that you are correct that they won't last the proverbial 5 minutes on load. I had a similar experience last year when I retired and took stock of everything lying around in boxes and shelves in the so called workshop😲 Some also measured above the 'dead' voltage but collapsed within seconds of applying a load; a 540 motor running offload. They were consigned to the Great Recycling Centre in the sky 🤔 The NiCads had preceded them by a decade or so! Since then I've restocked with LiPos where I have brushless and LiPo safe ESCs and NiMh for the 'brushed ships with older pre Lixx EScs. For heavier jobs like Graf Spee (3 x 600), HMS Belfast (4! x 385), U25 (2 x 385) I've restocked with 6V 4Ah SLAs. Have started compiling an XL spreadsheet to keep track of them; when last used / charged etc. Oooops! Just discovered that Grauer Burgunder is an excellent cleaner for my inductive mouse pad 😲 Prost allseits! Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
OK, In chronological order😉 No! The Wattmeter has to be spliced into the cable between source (i.e. battery) and the load, ESC and motor. As shown in example 1 in the instruction extract above. BTW 1: if your Wattmeter comes with instructions in Chinese Unwinese (Misstoodifold in the under number 29s😁) then use the above. Despite it's name it's primary use to us is to tell us the current the motor draws so we can select appropriate fuses. It will also tell you the mAh you've taken out of the battery, or put in when on charge. As far as I'm concerned the actual Watt measurement is relatively useless, except perhaps for 'Bragging Rights' 😁 Speccing the ESC should be done by checking the motor current specs and adding a good margin for safety. If no specs available use the Wattmeter to tell you the current drawn at full voltage from a DC source. If possible under load in the bath. Hang on tight😲 That only works for BRUSHED motors of course! Then use an ESC capable of twice the measured current. BTW 2; if you want to use your 27 / 40Mhz TXs you will definitely need the suppression capacitors on the motors, despite the partial damping effect of the rectifier, to reduce interference to your own radio. Fuses; I'll put 15s in to be on the safe side. If the Wattmeter / Ammeter measurements indicate less than 10A max then change fuses to10A and use a 20A ESC so it has some reserve. Or is operating within it's true capacity😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Lifeboat plans by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Doug, the outboards are made to take a 28mm brushless. There's an angled pre-drilled plate comes with it, to which I assume a 28mm brushless screws. They tend to use 2S LiPos on their boats with 23-2800KV, so about 18,5oo revs or a bit more. Can a brushed motor do that? I have a speed 400 from an aeroplane. Not sure what the shaft diameter is. I want it to go well, although, no I won't be racing it. As far as I know nobody does 152VO in England. I just need to fit a usable motor that I can build the Godiva casing round it. I don't want to HAVE to spend 30 quid on a motor, when I have one here, but I don't know what the performance would be. Martin

Lifeboat plans by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Aha! THAT sort of dolly! Why does it need to be a brushless? The kV rating means 1000 rpm per volt! So, yes it do make a bit o' difference! HK do have 'smaller' motors, I bought an 1100kV version from them for my Sea Scout. Unless you want to go racing surely a decent brushed motor would do, without the cooling complications. Cheers, Doug

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Pete, Yep, the colour of the LEDs can be determined by doping the diode chip with various elements. The early ones were either red or clear, so the colour was added in the epoxy dome around the chip. Cheap ones still are like that. Nowadays you can get LEDs that light different colours according to the voltage applied! For instance in those irritating shelf / vitrine light strings that rotate through a variety of colours all the time.😡 I have some that are red or green depending on which way round you apply the voltage! They are milky white when off. Useful for checking the operation and setup in the boat of brushed ESCs and motors, esp for multi-screw boats, and the output of switching circuits. Funny I always thought halogen lights were a hard white with a blue tint, like some car headlights. Cool on the Kelvin temp range. Yellow is more like the warm white light of a tungsten bulb to me. Yellow deck floodlights are more likely to be sodium lamps, like many street lamps. The measurements you sent me indicated that the switch on voltage (Vf) of the searchlight was 3V and all the others 2V. So I based my final calc on that. If any of your LEDs don't 'strike' with 150Ohm just reduce the resistor to 120 to give it a 'shove'😁 I don't expect that though. I have a box of 300 various LEDs and 1000 various resistors in front of me (and the mast from my Southampton tug😉) so will do some practical tests. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I can strongly recommend that you buy a simple LED Tester, like one of these- I'll help you get the LEDs the right way round in your circuits and tell you how much current they need for a decent brightness, and at what voltage they will turn on! Only a few bucks and saves a lot of aggro. It'll also tell you what colour a 'clear or white' one will be when it turns on😊