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>> Home > Tags > brushless motor

brushless motor
540 motor
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Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi. The HK controller is an Aquastar 120Amp water cooled which has suffered all of the burn outs and never failed. SKU: 9052000008. The failed motors were all 2848SL 3900kv Brushless Inrunner (WaterCooled) SKU:3900-2848SL. I have my doubts about the specifications as their watts and amps do not add up. I have a temperature sensor on the motor sending info back to the TX and usually after a full charge and a fast run it would get to 60°C, then I would cool it to 45°C before the next run it burnt out at 85°C when I wasn't paying attention. The new motor runs at about 45°C how ever hard it is pushed. Still using the 120A ESC. The new motor was in the HK sale and I don't think they do it now SKU:S2858-2630. It just happend that the water jacket for the failed unit fits it.

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi. Just put this back together after the 3rd brushless motor caught fire. Made from a rejected glass fibre hull which I bought cheap at a show. I have now learned how to do glass fibre repairs.

Added extras by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Here are some shots of the main plan and the proposed electronics going into my Solent. My only issue is whether my choice of motors is suitable? I've gone with 2 x 600 brushed motors on 15 inch shafts and 45mm brass props which I purchased before reading the article in Septembers model boats mag. The author in that has gone with 2 x 850's? With my aircraft experience, it's strange going "backwards" with brushed motors instead of the aircraft industry standard of using brushless motors, esc's and lipo battery's! And to cap it all, I've not go any aircraft that could possibly drag let alone lift the 12v 7amp lead acid battery that I've bought for this boat! Any thoughts on motor choice would be appreciated, apart from that I'm good with the electrics. The Mtroniks sound board and speaker is a blast using the Napier diesel sound chip. Another shot shows some of the decor going on, i.e. RNLI decals, numbering for "Douglas Currie", portholes, anchor, handrail stanchions. Other decor, doors, bollards etc coming from Macs soon. Last show shows the finished working radar built from scrap and painted in VW brilliant orange which I believe is a recognised match. One last question, can someone please give me an approx size for the 3mm main deck stanchions which I will fashion from brass tube and soldered eyelets, rope thickness would be helpful too, many thanks

34" Precedent Huntsman by canabus Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Great work MUM !!! I moved over to brushless motors three years ago. The power of these things are unbelievable. I have a 46" Crash Tender which is getting a L5055C 700KV motor on a 4S 5800mah Lipo battery via 100Amp Hobbyking car ESC. Prop 2 blade CNC 52mm 1.4 pitch. No loaded RPM 10360 against the 850 at 9778 rpm. NO water cooling on the motor and the car ESC has an electric fan, so at low speed you have no cooling problems. The two motors are about the same size. As for battery connectors I use XT60 which I think are better then the Deans. The ESC's are very easy to setup with the program card. I can post my settings which I use on all my boats. I also have the smaller 34" Precedent Huntsman which I am restoring. Canabus

34" Precedent Huntsman by Novagsi0 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
I had this boat, a kit at the age of around 10 and my dad and I started it. Following a couple of years the boat was nearly finished and for some strange reason the build stopped. After collecting dust for more than 30 years and the sad passing away of my father, I decided to get the boat down and make a fresh start with the intention of finishing it this time. My only dilemma is the choice of motor we initially decided some 30 years ago to run a 6V Hectaperm electric motor off its gear box direct drive, but this has since found its way into our 'Imara' Tug and is more than well suited. I cannot decide either to use a Tornado 850 or a brushless motor, the pro and cons are immense. As can be seen my mother use to paint all my dads boats, and she is now helping paint bits on this one, I insisted as traditional. Hope to post regular and the finished results around 14 May next year my father's B-day. Anyway any advice welcome.

Vosper 46ins. Crash Tender by RUPERT Apprentice   Posted: 18 days ago
Hello Having just added my name to the Model Boat website I have under construction the 46ins. crash tender. Am about to add the brushless motor and propshaft this seems ok but working out what servo ,the wiring is more tricky also cooling for the speed controller, would this be better pumped through rather than scooped up? Any advice or suggestions would be most helpful.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
SHG have mounts in their catalogue that they say are suitable for brushed and brushless. Just make sure the bolts you use are short so that they do not damage the coils on the motor. As you have opted for a LiPo do please charge and use in accordance with the instructions Please keep us posted Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Neil, here's my 'twopenn'orth' on this subject w.r.t. the brushless upgrade in my 24" Sea Scout. I'm happy with the relationship between prop and rudder so am concentrating on the motor mount and coupling now. Pics show the motor removed and the new one, old and new mounts and new coupling. Alignment will be done with the help of an ammeter as usual. Minimum current draw = best alignment 😊 Insides have been cleaned up and sealed with Eze-Kote 1 part polyester resin. Lovely stuff, just wash out the brushes with hot water and you can use 'em again! When all is correct the 'engine compartment' will be painted with white gloss Hammerite. 2nd last pic shows old plastic prop (50mm) and new brass one (30mm) matched to the brushless. Have fun, Greetings Doug 😎

Deans Seaplane tender by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Deans Seaplane tender calls for a 400 motor with a Bobs Board!! When I asked then for an alternative, ie. brushless motor and esc with lipo batteries they could not help as their built model had the aforesaid 400 motor and bobs board in. Can anyone suggest what more modern kit I could use to power the boat. I must say the kit and instructions are first class.

Richards 48" Swordsman by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Richard, The 'S' rating of a LiPo pack stands for the number of 3.7V cells in the pack. Therefore the 6S pack has 22.2V !! The kV rating of a brushless motor stands for '1000RPM per volt'. So, for the sake of illustration, a 1000kV motor would spin at max 22.000 revs at full volts from a 6S !!!! 😲 and will probably draw a lot current! Speed will depend mainly on the size and pitch of the prop, amongst other factors, including hull shape and weight. In this respect a Bigger prop is NOT always Better! The charge / discharge rate is given by the 'C' parameter of the pack. The better quality packs are marked with maximum charge and discharge rates in Amps (A). Cheers Doug 😎

Blown esc........ again 😢 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Sounds like you may have fused the brushes to the armature. I would bin this motor as it may seem OK but it has cooked and will fail again if driven hard. Brushless will give you all the power you require. I suggest you invest in a wattmeter to measure the current draw and make sure the wattage is both within the motor and ESC specs. You may need to drop a few prop sizes but the speed will be max with the correct motor loading. Please let us know how you fare Dave

Blown esc........ again 😢 by rolfman2000 Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
It turns out that the 8.4v 600 graupner motor is very power hungry, and itvdoesnt like part throttle usage. The safety circuitry built into the Mtroniks esc cut in to save the motor and esc. But when I took the motor out & tried to run it just on a 7.2v battery, it wouldn't turn. So I gave it a spin by hand, and there was big Klunk, and the motor started to run perfectly again. All seems fine now. But i dont trust it. So I've invested in a brushless motor and matched esc which im in the process of fitting now. Thanks for all your help and postings. Cheers, Dave W 😊