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>> Home > Tags > brushless motor

brushless motor
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Sadie by chrisc Seaman   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 38" Sadie Single Propellor - Comments: Lesro Rapier from the late 1970's. was powered by a glow fuel engine hoping to fit brushless motor

Prop shaft bearing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Useful info on how to fit a bearing. Do yo intend to provide any protection from water ingress or are you relying on the oiler alone? It would be useful to know the specs (max revs) for the bearing, especially if you intend to fit a brushless motor.

Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Many thanks Dave and Brian, I guess Brian's craft is much bigger and heavier than mine; 56x30 cm. Spec says weight 1.3kg with motors fitted but without batteries and RC gear. It came with a 9cm diameter 3 blade ducted fan, 13x? two blade thrust prop and a pair of 400 size brushed motors, the mountings for which limit me to 28/30mm diameter brushless. When I hauled the kit box down from an upper shelf to investigate I found the packing list and spares price list in both Deutschmark and Euro, i.e. circa 1999/2000!! Planning well ahead for the retirement 😉😉 In mine there are no rudders! The whole motor/prop mount is turned. Will see how it goes with that and maybe mod it later with rudders depending on how easy it is to control - OR NOT😲 many thanks for the tips 👍 Doug

Going brushless after all! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I’ve decided to go brushless instead of brushed with a view to adding brushless at a later date. I had a turnigy motor and Hobbyking ESC sat in the spares box and have ordered another pair. Will run this on 2S lipo to start with and go 3s if needed, depending on the watt meter results?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I think you might need pointing in a direction, so I had a quick look on Hobbyking, and this motor is the sort of thing you can use, although this particular one would need you to swop the shaft around, this is just a guide, other s will no doubt add comment, its the right size, 5mm shaft, right kv and watts. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-g15-brushless-outrunner-... brushless esc https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-90a-boat-esc-4a-sbec.h... you don't need the high amp capability, but its reversing, programmable, water cooled, and has an sbec, so the main battery power this 5 mm shaft, move your motor to the centre section meaning weight distribution is more central, and you can now use a shorter shaft, and get a couple off plastic "x" props, I would say 40 to 45mm will be the one. This will give a good speed, and you can power on 3 cells or 4 cells lipo, get higher c rating (40c or more) and higher mah so you have fuel in the tank available https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-4s-40c-l... This is just a guide, a starting point, as I feel you are unsure where to start, others with more knowledge will come in regarding this, having experience with lipo, brushless, 3 foot ply boats, and esc's, depending on budget, this would be the sort of thing I would be getting.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Cheers Dave, some good stuff there. Are there smaller 12v SLA than the giant house brick I have in my aerokits Solent? Don’t want to sink it with a huge brick lol. I may look at a brushless conversion at a later date, would be easy enough to swap out the brushed motors and replace. It’s just that I have all the brushed stuff available that was going to go in another model, may as well use that first. I have battery warning devices for my aircraft, but they are lipo only, will have to look for sla types?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Graham That sounds much better and will move your boat at a very fast speed. I must reiterate my previous advice repeated by BOATSHED regarding the extra support for the prop shaft at each end and adjacent to the bearing. Unlike brushed motors, brushless accelerate to their KV rating at a very fast rate and if your installation is not solid (as concrete) you will experience all kinds of problems, all costly, and often terminal (personal experience confirms this). Finally do get a wattmeter and check the amps and wattage whist holding the boat in the water. If either are above the rating for the motor, ESC or battery you need to reduce the prop size. I can't emphasize this enough as the consequence can be an explosion on the water and total loss of the boat and all its equipment. Asw you have mentioned 10000 mA I assume you will be using two 5000Ma batteries in parallel. This is OK providing you use and electronic coupler between the batteries to disconnect a discharged battery to ensure no one battery discharges below the recommended value. These are not cheap and personally I would use one battery and change to a new battery when the first was depleted. I accept that if you are in a racing situation this may not be possible, but I suspect as a newbie you are using for pleasure purposes. I hope you will now be able to proceed to install the new motor and prop shaft and supports as suggested. Please keep us posted and I look forward to seeing your model on the water

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Graham If we are talking about the Graupner Brushless Speed ​​500 ECO no 7295 https://www.graupner.de/Brushless-Speed-500-ECO/7295/ then yes the Kv is 500 which equates to 7500 at 14.8v. It's 50mm x 80mm with a 6mm shaft so really a heavy duty motor and in a Aeronaut Queen 36" still much too big and powerful. You really need to resolve the drive train and shaft problems and this will be easier if you choose a motor of smaller diameter and power. A 36xx or very similar size motor at about 1000Kv or less (500Kv with 14.7v) will be ample. The prop should be less diameter than the motor. There are many examples of 36" model boats on this site and I do believe the majority of our members have used similar set ups, to those we have suggested, in their models with a large degree of success. It could be we are talking about a different motor as you refer to " the small outrunner motor". If so please post a link to a pic of the motor.

Flyer 15, racing hydroplane by BigAlio Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
thank you boaty thought i might put small twin brushless motor and use a mixer to save trying to fit a rudder.

Huntsman 31 by Thebuffs1 Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 30" Huntsman 31 Single Propellor Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (12v) Batteries - Comments: Refurbished and updated Huntsman 31 with brushless motor , new paint job and reconditioned seats from a old tin car

Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Very nice👍 You could have continued the musical underlay with 'Swan Lake' 😉 I have a similar sized hovercraft - which brushless motors are fitted in this one? Doug😎

Hovercraft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
This is Brian Clewes Hovercraft on a frozen Boundary Park Lake in Cheshire UK. Our resident cob swan and his wife were sat on the ice probably hoping we had brought some feed. They don't bother us and we leave them alone. I should have filmed them taking off later, not an easy task on ice for one of our largest birds. The hovercraft has two brushless motors and uses a LiPo.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Doug Brushless motors may be similar to AC motors in construction but they are powered by pulsed sequential DC so there is no AC involved. I do agree Watt metres are the best way to make sure the motor, battery and ESC max values are never exceeded. I agree the spec sheets are very useful but are specific to the type of motor and original supplier, and many are for companies no longer trading. I do sometimes have difficulty in interpreting some of the info supplied but the nominal working voltage, max power are usually OK. The stall current is useful to decide on the wire and fuse size as well as choosing a suitable ESC. At the end of the day if the set up is getting too hot you are probably working over the specs and if water cooling doesn't help you need to adjust the prop and / or battery voltage.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Thanks Dave, Eventually we will have put together a body of knowledge that model boat builders can use with some certainty. At present the information is sketchy, hard to find and sometimes ambiguous. The motor designers and manufacturers have not been very helpful. For my La Combattante iii missile boat I used two Hobbyking Keda 720kV motors rated at 215 Watts and 19.3amps max. They were the first brushless motors I tried. I was not sure how many amps they would draw, so I connected an ammeter and fitted my video camera so it read the amps whilst operating. At full speed they used only 8 amps each. Each of the batteries is from 12V made from 9 x NiMH 9Ah D Cells. I easily get over an hour run time at good speed. The boat is 1605mm long so not small. This information may help someone.