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>> Home > Tags > brushless

brushless
brushless motor
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brushless
HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. It seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.

Thornycroft MTB by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 11 hours ago
Just converted this 40yr old twin brushless model (scratch built from a Vic Smeed plan) to a proper independent twin system plus a sound unit. Started off with a 70s Futaba ESC on 27mhz, then on FM, then replaced with an Electronize unit on FM, then to 2.4 and now on 2.4 with twin ESCs and converted TGY S6 (twin throttles). Maneuvers a lot better and makes a better noise.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 12 hours ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Good thinking Batman👍👍👍 I hate those slide switches as well. They're always the first thing to fail on my garden solar lights. Nice trick with the relays, could also perhaps have used one double pole relay to replace the ESC switches? Otherwise they are energised but in an 'undefined' state 😲 Strange, I don't have your 'modulation' problems with the brushless (1000kV) in my Sea Scout!? 'Get-home'; agreed 👍, that's why I'm pondering squishing a centre motor into my PT Boat. It's all stripped out and in the 'C Check' dock 🤔 so now is the time! All the best Rowen, cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
You're as BAD as me Boaty 😉 but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC voltage to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the voltage crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed motors! 😁😜

All hooked up, nowt happens... by boaty Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Westquay It sounds Doug has got it right. I only went over to brushless 3 years ago when I returned to fast electric. All my existing models at the time had brushed motors installed and I did become confused with the "new technology". Having three wires from the motor to the ESC was a bit difficult to comprehend but as the boat was an RTR it was helpful due to having an instruction manual with it. It just takes time and experience to get use to such changes but it will be right in the end. My only experience of a non starter was back in 1976, this being the only time I had a date with a married woman. I had a Lotus Elan then and there was no room in the back and it would have been a waste of time calling the AA to resolve it.😁😎 Boaty

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Thanks, Doug, I take it that throttle down would mean throttle back with a pistol set like the Flysky? Also, it's a Lipo I want to tell it about. I went nuts and bought one as it's a brushless motor. So as soon as I hear a beep I yank back on the throttle trigger? Let's hope it doesn't just beep continuously like it did before. Foghorn? I had no idea it was there. Norn Airish Snookrr soo et ezz. Don't do sports. Cheers, Martin

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Sounds good to me Selwyn 👍 That board is a sensible (essential) idea in that setup. Stops a stronger battery trying to charge the weaker one.👍 I have several Action Electronics modules as well (duplicated some 😁) They're good, well made stuff. Anyway, your brushless ESCs will 'see' 12V so setting them up as running on NiMh should do the trick. If you set them up as 'LiPo' they might think it is a 3S 11.1V battery and try to let the volts go down to 9V before cutting off!! Not good for the SLAs 😡 IF they assume it is a 4S 14.8V Lipo they will cut off at 4x3.0 i.e. 12V which will drastically shorten your run time; you'd have to keep the SLAs near fully charged (13.6V) all the time. Bon chance mon ami, let us know how it goes. All the best, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi rapidair65, Most Brushless ESCs seem to assume that you are using either LiPo or NiMh batteries. It needs to know which so it can set the correct cut off voltage per cell, e.g. 3.=V for Lipo. From the applied voltage it can work out how many cells and the correct cut off. If you are using two SLA I assume 2x6V in series giving 12V. So tell the ESC that you are using NiMh and it will assume 10 cells @ 1.2V / cell. I'll be interested to hear how you get on as an SLA has nominally 2V per cell!! You should get away with it as the ESC checks the total voltage applied - it has no access to individual cells 😉 It will probably let the battery voltage go down to 11V before stopping the motor(s)😲 Good luck, Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 3 days ago
Following this with some interest as I am about to convert my Arun lifeboat to a brushless set up using Turnigy Aerodrive motors and marine esc. Hoping to keep the two lead acid batteries for power as they make good ballast!

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. If you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin

Bluebird by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27" Bluebird Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 2881kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ETTI (120Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a Touchwood static kit that my boy brought back from Coniston, it said it could be converted to Rc and had some sketchy drawings that were not very good. I decided to go brushless with it and lipo battery, was not an easy job as had to go it alone to find out C/G and drive set up. The kit was very poor with a twisted hull and resin parts that were far too heavy, I made some aluminium planing wedges and various other parts to save weight. This project took the best part of 5 years to complete as it would go back on the shelf as I got stumped for ideas then back off again as I found a bit more inspiration, overal it came out well and runs on rails with. Good turn of speed as you can see in the vid I posted.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
The only thing you might have to watch out for is back feed from the pump out the aux tube (when moving) if you don't set up the y joints (must be y not T ) to create a venturi effect from the pump side. Doesn't matter standing still but at speed a T junction might reduce the flow as the flows will be fighting each other slightly. The beauty of the twin system is that if you are running a lot at high speed you could turn the pump off to save power. The best place to position water intakes is I have found is directly behind the prop (I usually just squash the brass tube slightly, fair it, cut it off at 45 deg and set it to just sit in the prop wash). At lower speeds especially, the prop will help to push water into the tubes rather than just relying on speed alone. Never had a problem with pickups interfering with rudder effectiveness as long as you fair the pickups nicely