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>> Home > Tags > brushless

brushless
brushless motor
brush
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brushed motor
brushless
Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat. by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
I had an MFA Spearfish in the mid 1990s and it was powered by an MFA Marlin or should I say underpowered. The Marlin was a good motor but was not really suitable for fast craft such as a powerboat or fast service launch like an M.T.B. I understand that MFA did an 850 which was for fast scale type models but in the end I put an Irvine 25 I.C in the Spearfish. At the time there was a motor called a Buhler which I think was Swiss . I used one😁 in my Perkassa running on nicads which performed very well. For the Aerokits P.T boat there are a lot of suitable brushless motors around and running on lipos will certainly give you all the speed you want.😁 Boaty

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Mornin' John, agree re chromite, but still don't know what chroDite is! I only personally own the one Taycol Target. I got into this whole Taycol business while I was renovating Dad's old Sea Scout last year and decided I wanted a bit more Oomph so upgraded it to a 1000kV brushless, which gives goods results on a 3S LiPo. See the vids I've posted of the the 'Sea trials' (Lake Trials!?). So I decided to use the Target in the ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter I'm restoring and converting from static to RC. Figured the Target would cope OK with the plodding pace of a fish cutter😉 BUT, I wanted it to be reversible without cumbersome external switches or relays as recommended by Taycol / Keil Kraft in those days. After surfing around a bit a found a website where others had tackled the same problem. Looked at their solutions and refined them slightly. All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor. The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train. The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the voltage is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁 Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently. No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. OK, I'll look up Mr Lynch, wasn't he the Sarge in Z Cars 😁😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Rebuild starts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Peter, I wouldn't use ply at all.😲 Especially not for a powerful brushless. I only bought the Krick adjustable mount so I could scan it and then make my own from 2 or 3mm aluminium, depending on how heavy and powerful the motor is. I will never use the original wooden one. It was just a 'means to an end' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Rebuild starts by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Doug. Thanks for the design. It looks really good and very adjustable. I have bought a 1485 brushless motor for the rebuild. A bit of a beast so I hope not too much. I think this is a lot more powerful than a 480 so do you think 8 or 10mm ply for the mount. Thanks.🤓

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
My mate said it as Chrodite, with narey a hint of a pause, so I just assumed he knew what it was. I think it's effectively Admiralty brass, more or less. Not quite bronze, which is BLOODY hard! But ace bearing material. Goes brown but doesn't corrode further. He made hundreds of his own bolts from it, but had to sell the boat before he finished it. Bearings for a Supermarine? Mine has its original stuff, Just the end plates of Paxolin with felt oil pads held on with a pressed brass cap. It's worked all these years and there's not a thou. of slop. Amazing. I suppose though, mine never really got a lot of use in the few years I used it. Only odd weekends for as long as a pair of lantern batteries would last. Maybe 10 minutes each! Anyway, if it gets another working, great news. I'd like to see Colin's fleet of old codgers. I'd feel right at home Mind you, I sent off for a brushless ESC today and will have to get some batteries soon to test the motor. Its a tiddler, but it's 174 watts, so should work. Worth a try anyway as it cost me nowt. Martin

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by thatsinkinfeelin18 Seaman   Posted: 3 days ago
many thanks Vortex for info i will think of going brushless(i do have a Merco 61) where would a good starting point be for brushless 🤐if i can be so bold to ask you only recently got back into r/c boats so brushless /lipo is abit new to me regards Steve

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by vortex Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
If the hull is in decent shape structurally i cant see any problem if you get the balance right it should go well. If you are concerned beef up the mounts or put a bulkhead in it or both. Mine now runs on brushless and moves along quite well. I`m sure Jerome Grainger put a Merco or Webra 61 in his Cigarette in the 70`s. I`ve run my Surfury on an Irvine 40 and was pleased with performance and handling, that now runs on a brushless and its quicker. Pics are of Surfury with Irvine 61 which was a bit heavy and my version of the Black Tornado

Avanti by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 29"/1200g Avanti Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a OBL29/19-15M (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through BLC-40M (25Amps) ESC - Comments: ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless outrunner. Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated Futaba T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. Initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . If not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns. Boaty

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Interesting restoration project . Great fan of Taycols myself though its some 24 years since I had one. The motors themselves are bristling with character as you can see the armature rotating and you do get the smell of something electrical along with it. Taycols go further than being just power units as they are good ballast due to their weight. Unfortunately through progress they have been replaced by little tin cans and brushless devices. Hopefully someday a person or a company will put them back in production due to the number of retro boat kits now being sold. Boaty

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. It would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.

PT 109 upgrade? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Not necessarily Bubble, By correctly programming the ESC for a soft start and a not too aggressive acceleration curve you can tame brushless at low speed and stop 'em leaping ahead like scalded cats! Worked fine on my Sea Scout upgrade. Even adjusting the motor timing can help with the fine tuning. Cheers, Doug 😎

PT 109 upgrade? by bubbletop409 Apprentice   Posted: 5 days ago
When choosing brushless motors the KV rating is an important part of the equation. A high KV rating will make slow speed operation difficult in a scale boat.

bulkheads by Dampfgerd Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Bauer- Voith-Schneider-Propeller https://www.bauer-modelle.com/Voith-Schneider-Propeller-VSP-...

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
😲 Brass on Brass and driven at Hi RPM by brushless!? Hmmmm 😲 Be highly interesting to hear what difference the steel shafts (and some Teflon grease?) make Rowen. Cheers, Doug 😎

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV Outrunners) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a programming card. This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with “softer” start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a “Y” lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.