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>> Home > Tags > brushless

brushless
brushless motor
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brushless
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thanks Haig👍 I just hope Andy is still around. Maybe a variant of my four screw setup for my HMS Belfast could help him. I'm going to upgrade it with differential ESC control for the two outer motors to assist the steering, the 'beast' (125cm), only has one rudder. I also use SLAs (and brushed motors) in such large displacement hulls, but for planing hulls these days the 'norm' must surely be brushless and LiPo (or at least HiPower NiMh😉). G'night from frozen Munich 😡 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. If you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. It may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. It runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials 😁 Robbob.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi SiFi70. Here's the motor I'm using: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-3548-840kv... style='background-color:yellow;'>brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=1&___store=en_us I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog. Robbob.

White Star BB"570" by Tica Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Started on an easy build. A White Start from Billing Boats. As usually the build instruction is very basic, all is more ore less shown on the main drawing. I have skipped the original 3mm shaft and added a 4mm from Robbe incl. a 3 blade Graupner racing prop as used in my Classic. I'll be using a 1100KV Brushless motor with a 2S LiPo. The basic of the hull is now done.

Fireboat by Welshsailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 46" Fireboat Twin Propellors (4 Blade 40mm) - Comments: Recently acquired Fireboat that needs refurbishment. Existing loose single shaft removed and twin shafts and rudders fitted. To fitted with twin (possibly brushless) motors, each with its own battery and controller. Updates to follow.

Fast Patrol Boat by jelley_baby Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi BOATSHED, The wooden block is screwed and araldited ti the keel and supports an Aluminium bracket designed for holding a Brushless motor in an Aeroplane, use what’s available I always say. The coupling is Silicon tube fitted to brass universal coupling fittings and because the way brushless run is very quiet compared to a normal Unversal Joint assembly. Will post it running shortly. Thanks for you interest. Graham

Fast Patrol Boat by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
How does the coupling work, as it looks to be a flexi coupling. There also looks like you have a wooden support under the motor? With the torque on brushless motors will it not wave about? I look forward to seeing her on the water, hope you do a bit of video of her.

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Brianaro, many thanks for that. i am about to go and check that out. As well as my old 70's wooden Precedent Huntsman, I also have an MFA Spearfish still in the box not touched yet. I had one back in the 80's with an Irvine 61 in it and it was a great fun boat. I did plan to do the same again with it but with the constant banning of using IC engines on the ponds around area's in the UK I suppose it will end up brushless. I know they are if not faster then IC now but the cost battery wise, now being retired the funds aren't as easily found now. The sad part is I still have 2 new SC 91's, 1 new SC 61 and a Irvine 120 all still new, never been run. I think there might also be an Irvine 61 that has no box. As well as a Zenoah 26c all pimped up in purple only run in ready to be put in a boat. Shed full of both engines and boats, some boats still new in the boxes still waiting to be built. Hopefully I will get to build them before I pop me clogs.

aeronaut classic by sandgrounder Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
just as a matter interest how much weight were you thinking , i know it is light and may be quick with the brushless motor

Propshaft Lubrication by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus

Electric Barbarella by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
Ahoy Maties! It's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. It measures 24 X 8.5 inches. It is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁

All hooked up, nowt happens... by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. If it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). If you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. Water cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv water cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushed ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.

Brushless motor(s) by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Thanks, probably explains why the original motor is out of stock with no estimated replenishment date. Will update my notes to the 3639 750 kV Rowen

Brushless motor(s) by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi RHBaker I had the motor ,so I used it. The sister motor is a 3639-750kv 600Watts 8325 rpm on 3S. The 3639-1100kv 800Watts 12210 rpm on 3S. Next up the 3648-1450kv 1600Watts 16095 rpm on 3S. All are straight bolt replacement, but, the 3648 requires a 100Amp ESC. The 3639 750kv would be the better motor for the boat to get scale speed. Canabus