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>> Home > Tags > brushless

brushless
brushless motor
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brushless
Re Sea Rover by Wingcoax by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Wow! You had the 'posh' version of the Bell battery with screw terminals! Mine only had brass strips and I was forever cleaning them with Brasso 🤔 Granny & Grandad used to help keep Hotspur running. She got most use when visiting them in Folkestone anyway. Near where I lived, RAF Cosford, I had nowhere to sail her! By the time I got around to glowplugs, Simprop 'Zaunkönig' and a little heli from Great Planes, the reliable 2V SLAs from Yeasu and similar had appeared. Just found the bits of Zaunkönig in the cellar, looking very sorry for herself! 😲 Time to think about upgrading to a brushless!? Advice from the experienced flyboys welcome! Cheers Doug 😎 PS The 'manky hanky' sounds familiar, I had used mine to clean the terminals of the wet cells Dad had fitted in our Sea Scout 😲 And they were 'WET'!

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi. The HK controller is an Aquastar 120Amp water cooled which has suffered all of the burn outs and never failed. SKU: 9052000008. The failed motors were all 2848SL 3900kv Brushless Inrunner (WaterCooled) SKU:3900-2848SL. I have my doubts about the specifications as their watts and amps do not add up. I have a temperature sensor on the motor sending info back to the TX and usually after a full charge and a fast run it would get to 60°C, then I would cool it to 45°C before the next run it burnt out at 85°C when I wasn't paying attention. The new motor runs at about 45°C how ever hard it is pushed. Still using the 120A ESC. The new motor was in the HK sale and I don't think they do it now SKU:S2858-2630. It just happend that the water jacket for the failed unit fits it.

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi. Just put this back together after the 3rd brushless motor caught fire. Made from a rejected glass fibre hull which I bought cheap at a show. I have now learned how to do glass fibre repairs.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
that angle is way better, give yourself a bit of room for a bigger prop, say your 40mm, just incase. For reference, here is my original set up with a brushed 700 motor, direct drive, it ran hot! then I used a gearbox, it ran cooller, but the boat was getting very heavy by now. Currently its a brushless direct drive, its been ignored for a few years now, I must get it out and use it again. Its an original Aerokits, built in 1963 by my Uncle as a straight runner ic, the ended up in my parents attic for 30 years

Added extras by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 12 days ago
Here are some shots of the main plan and the proposed electronics going into my Solent. My only issue is whether my choice of motors is suitable? I've gone with 2 x 600 brushed motors on 15 inch shafts and 45mm brass props which I purchased before reading the article in Septembers model boats mag. The author in that has gone with 2 x 850's? With my aircraft experience, it's strange going "backwards" with brushed motors instead of the aircraft industry standard of using brushless motors, esc's and lipo battery's! And to cap it all, I've not go any aircraft that could possibly drag let alone lift the 12v 7amp lead acid battery that I've bought for this boat! Any thoughts on motor choice would be appreciated, apart from that I'm good with the electrics. The Mtroniks sound board and speaker is a blast using the Napier diesel sound chip. Another shot shows some of the decor going on, i.e. RNLI decals, numbering for "Douglas Currie", portholes, anchor, handrail stanchions. Other decor, doors, bollards etc coming from Macs soon. Last show shows the finished working radar built from scrap and painted in VW brilliant orange which I believe is a recognised match. One last question, can someone please give me an approx size for the 3mm main deck stanchions which I will fashion from brass tube and soldered eyelets, rope thickness would be helpful too, many thanks

34" Precedent Huntsman by Novagsi0 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Thanks for the detailed reply however I missed your post and had bit the bullet and ordered the 850 motor. I decided to get the lipo safe 50A ESC, and first impression it's a beast of a motor. Maybe phase 2 will be a brushless setup at a later stage. Im hoping a lipo pack will save enough weight to give it some of the offshore PB performance it details in the instructions. :-)

34" Precedent Huntsman by canabus Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Great work MUM !!! I moved over to brushless motors three years ago. The power of these things are unbelievable. I have a 46" Crash Tender which is getting a L5055C 700KV motor on a 4S 5800mah Lipo battery via 100Amp Hobbyking car ESC. Prop 2 blade CNC 52mm 1.4 pitch. No loaded RPM 10360 against the 850 at 9778 rpm. NO water cooling on the motor and the car ESC has an electric fan, so at low speed you have no cooling problems. The two motors are about the same size. As for battery connectors I use XT60 which I think are better then the Deans. The ESC's are very easy to setup with the program card. I can post my settings which I use on all my boats. I also have the smaller 34" Precedent Huntsman which I am restoring. Canabus

34" Precedent Huntsman by Novagsi0 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
I had this boat, a kit at the age of around 10 and my dad and I started it. Following a couple of years the boat was nearly finished and for some strange reason the build stopped. After collecting dust for more than 30 years and the sad passing away of my father, I decided to get the boat down and make a fresh start with the intention of finishing it this time. My only dilemma is the choice of motor we initially decided some 30 years ago to run a 6V Hectaperm electric motor off its gear box direct drive, but this has since found its way into our 'Imara' Tug and is more than well suited. I cannot decide either to use a Tornado 850 or a brushless motor, the pro and cons are immense. As can be seen my mother use to paint all my dads boats, and she is now helping paint bits on this one, I insisted as traditional. Hope to post regular and the finished results around 14 May next year my father's B-day. Anyway any advice welcome.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Thanks Neil Pleased to hear that 👍😊 That's what we're here for 'The bin there - dun that brigade'! I've also received excellent tips here; especially re conversions to brushless and various modern materials and sources! Don't wish your life away though! It's short enough - but can fully understand😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Vosper 46ins. Crash Tender by RUPERT Apprentice   Posted: 17 days ago
Hello Having just added my name to the Model Boat website I have under construction the 46ins. crash tender. Am about to add the brushless motor and propshaft this seems ok but working out what servo ,the wiring is more tricky also cooling for the speed controller, would this be better pumped through rather than scooped up? Any advice or suggestions would be most helpful.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
Cheers for the photos guys I'll have a look when online with computer later on. Regarding the original hole in the hull do I just drill it or file it to achieve a more acute angle as now I've removed the old engine mount there's no way I can achieve alignment with the new motor position. I think I'll stay with my old motor as opposed to expense on a brushless as been looking and I don't think 'She that must be obeyed' would wear an 80quid spend lol, considering it's taken another year to get going again.

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
SHG have mounts in their catalogue that they say are suitable for brushed and brushless. Just make sure the bolts you use are short so that they do not damage the coils on the motor. As you have opted for a LiPo do please charge and use in accordance with the instructions Please keep us posted Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.