... 😊 lol .. No pressure then ! .. lol 😊 I,m afraid this may not be a quick build, because it is an "infill" build.. Always try to have two models on the go, as sometimes waiting for glue or worse still, the paint to dry that's a lot of wood cutting time wasted.. Regards Muddy
Hi Dave, its Hoylake, Wirral, whilst filled with fresh water, on the odd high tide as its right on the beach (hence lifeboat station on the background) it does get salt water In it Jaws, well here is the thing, remember MMB subsonic submarine kits? I bought one, and never got it to work. I have a box of bits, jus wanted it to dive to dorsal fin depth, and surface, it would be a cool project. I nearly got there, but gave up If anybody want to do a commission build, let me know👍
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films was peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁
Early in this thread I saw Depron mentioned as being the material of the build Was this so ? If so what glue was used in the build. UHU por or similar brand is usually recommended.Re Glueing metal to plastic good old Gorilla Glue is the one Much cheaper then those others and has good gap filling too.👍
Hello, Firstly is the lifeboat kit still for sale? If so, does it come with instructions as well as plans for each stage of the build? Finally, my budget would be around the £475 mark, would this be considered as a reasonable offer, obviously if not I fully understand. Thank you.
Hello, with a motor and prop refit, Tarpon went for a float test. Speed was suitable, she attempted to get on the "Plane", but it just aint cricket for a bilge hull.. As the man said " That'ul do ". Good cruising/walking pace and running time.. She is now relegated to an Infill or between builds boat.. The 777 motor did the trick, with a 3 blade 35mm prop running on 7.2 volt Nimh 3500 ma battery pack. No, where's the bag o'plans and/or the plans handbook.. Happy sailing Muddy....
Thanks Rod. I'm afraid to say that I haven't been working on the Smit Rotterdam for several months now. My other hobby of flying and building RC model aircraft has taken preferance at the moment. The Smit Rotterdam has been sidelined while I build a 1/6th scale WW2 P47D Thunderbolt. Thanks for your comment.
Hi canabus, many thanks for the guidelines 👍 I'll check them out and compare with sources here in Germany. I already have some 3S 4000mAH accus. About 300gm but I figured the boat is so light empty it could manage that, mounted fairly well aft. Motor: I had been thinking along the lines of around 400kV, 1000kV max. So your suggestion fits 👍 Had hoped to avoid prog. cards for the ESC but Hey Ho - needs must ...! Already have such a prop in my collection so that's good 😊 Will price up the rest and see where we go. Will post results in the Build Blog. Will be a slight delay - off to Italy tomorrow for a week change of scenery! Many thanks again 😊 Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 9/10] 79"/4400g Adolph Bermpohl Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 5mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 3 motors (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner (15Amps) ESC - Comments: My build and adaption of safety vessel carrying smaller stern carried lifeboat "The Vega Sac" now sold on. The drop down stern door has been made solid and she is now a self contained motor lifeboat vessel. Very manoeuvrable, quick and ballasted down rides most pond water that can be thrown at her.
I have spoken to the person who built the boat. It is based on a Vintage model boat company design. It was scratch built and is made of strips of mahogany as I originally suspected. Having looked at the Vintage model company site it most resembles a sea hornet, however another kit may have been available at the time it was made. The strips of Mahogany were the builder making use of the materials they had to hand at the time, hence the vertical strips! The interior is covered in fine fibreglass mesh and 3 thin coats of fibreglass resin. Work on the restoration continues!