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>> Home > Tags > build

build
boat building
build blog
scratch build
build
Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 hour ago
Left to harden for 4 days, then got the hamerite white and thinned down to spraying consistency and poured it inside, rotating in all directions to coat completely pour out paint and leave to dry over night then using the paint saved from first coat I recoated it again. So now the Queen has a nice white interior. Will now look to do the fitting out of controls before finishing the outside. I do wish I could upload pictures, but will do a full set when I get a computer. I'm thinking of using a 600 motor, as I have a couple in my motor box not earmarked for a specific build.

Precedent Huntsman 34" by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 15 hours ago
Hi All Adding a few more pics!!! New driveline arrived this week. Funny scale to build a boat at as the real one is 31 and1/2 foot and this is 34", also the cockpit area is shorter and the rear cabin is longer. Canabus

Phantom by Tica Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1000g Phantom Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D2836 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK 30 A Boat ESC ESC - Comments: Bought it as partly build, and had to take it more or less apart to make it straight. Used a PU glue for the first set of planking, what a mess but it's strong. First trails on water showed that the balance was wrong so have to re-arrange the electronics. Unfortunately the trails also revealed that I had missed something with the sealing (my wife used the same materials for her Classic without any problems) so first of all I'll have to strip parts of the mahogany plating down and redo it :-( before I'll do any thing more on this model.

Lightning 46 by Tica Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1100g Lightning 46 Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a Power 600/19 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Robbe Rokraft 120µ ESC - Comments: Old school Robbe kit that I found 2 years ago.Build as intended except for the use of LiPo. I have only tested it with 2S mA >Cell but as the weight is less than half of the intended cell NiCD it performs great. The plan is to get my GPS logger on it. And also to test with 3S mA LiPo.

Cheapskate by Krampus Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 23" Cheapskate Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (10.8v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks Marine TIO 30 ESC - Comments: Using a modified Lisa M ABS hull made by German firm "Krick", I build this hard top cruiser inspired in American boats from the 1960s and early 1970s. Scratch-built superstructure, cannibalized from previous built "Bugalu", was made out of 2mm and 1.5mm ABS plastic sheets.

Denatured Alcohol by octman Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Thanks Dave, I will do a build blog when the model is finished. It is a Jenny by Aero naut. It is supposedly a simple model to make, and so far it is proving to be so, except for a few parts of the construction which are not very well explained in the instructions. If there is the possibility of misinterpreting some instruction, guess which method I use? It's only when I get to the next stage that I find I have gone wrong! I do read the instructions first but some parts are, to me at least, unclear. I have been able to overcome the problems I have created, although the model will only be 99.99% as per the plan. I have some photos of the build so far but not a complete reference. Chris

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Chris Probably easier to apply to the hull with the deck off. You should leave the deck join area clear to allow for the glue. The bottom of the deck will also benefit and I usually use a pencil to mark where the formers join and keep the coating off this area. If you are using epoxy for the coating and the joining glue this may not be a problem. Once the deck is on apply another coat over the joints to seal. If you could a build blog would be welcome and helpful to other members, please. Dave

Sophia by Alan999 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
The Sophia is a Chris Craft Riva that I am building from scratch using scrap plywood.

Dolphin 16 (19) by AllenA Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Colin. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your good choice of model 👍. I bought all of the brass pins I used from a UK based eBay seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-2... I can't imagine that something similar would not be available in Oz, try a good joinery or cabinet makers supply outlet. I mostly used the 15mm size and used, quite surprisingly, a total of around 500 😱. These pins have a tapered head rather than a flat one so that they can be punched flush, or just below the surface of the wood very easily. This is important when pinning the side and bottom skins so that the pin hole can be filled and sanded to give a very smooth surface for finishing. Also, when pinning the thin wood strips always pre-drill the wood to stop the wood from splitting. I'm not sure if CMB supply this type but Javro, who replied earlier, may be able to confirm this. Good luck with the build and please do think about posting a build blog on this site and ask as many questions as you need to. As I discovered, the help and advice you will get will be invaluable. Rob.

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by jaffy012 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
hi can you help me i have purchased the 46" vosper, and i have looked every where for the brass nails, i have the brass pins but are no help, can you tell me where in uk i can buy them, i would much appreciate it, i live in australia and ive tried everywhere here, i think your build is out of his world, i only hope mine will look like yours, hoping for reply, colin👍

eezebuild RAF tender by marky Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Mark , Back to work on Tuesday ,"off for a romantic weekend" ,that's what the wife is calling it anyway . I will speak to Ricky and see what he can do ,this one was supposed to be in ply but the sheet we had went walk about , I am building this one with my grandson I have another to build with his sister .will see what I can do for you .Cheers Marky

eezebuild RAF tender by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Marky, whats the chance of a second kit of parts cut?? charge of course, even if we send it to charity, the only thing would be, that it was cut from ply not MDF Regards Mark

Warning by onetenor Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Going back to the warning about the knives and foot injury. A safe way to keep knives handy around the building board .Have a block of expanded polystyrene or Oasi Or similar .When not in the hand stick the knife into the block. To sharpen blades use a "Water of Ayr Stone ". I find nothing better . John O/T👍

eezebuild RAF tender by marky Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
did another wee bit today ,decided to glaze the windows before assembling a bit tricky but a 7 year olds fingers come in handy, the windscreen went together quite well the roofs fitted reasonably well ,may put a 1mm white plastic roof over the mdf ones .had some nice oak strip so decided to plank the aft deck ,the forth picture shows the amended bow(not fitted) im not an expert but I prefer the original that I had fitted prior to knowing there was a mk2