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>> Home > Tags > built

built
scratch built
scratch-built
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Trent deck colour by Manofkent Seaman   Posted: 2 hours ago
having built a Trent and now onto a Tamar, the nearest colour I have found to the current RNLI livery is Humbrol 165 Medium Sea Grey.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 23 hours ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by Manofkent Seaman   Posted: 1 day ago
I have built this from the plans as per instructions using the balsa/ply fixing with UHU Hart and it works well and the boat performs well. Had to source fittings etc from many places and those I couldn't (DF cone) I 3d printed. Use a small geared motor from component shop to power the radar scanner.

Fun Run by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
The Dumas kit (Carol Moran) mine is named Michael after my grandson. It sailed at a scale speed today. The Bunker and Ellis "Lobster Yacht" a Midwest kit, seen here towing a harbour tender. Harbour tender and Tugboat built by me. Dannieboy built the Lobster Yacht with added touches by Ron.

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local model shop whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. It was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit. With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now. Boaty😁

What transmitter by Kipper Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, Take a look at this, it's a good unit, used by some in our club, all set up is done on the built in screen, easy to use & dependable. About as cheap as they come but very good. Receivers are cheap too. 👍 https://www.amazon.co.uk/FS-Transmitter-Receiver-helicopter-...

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Personally I would have used the kit and a template and built it with ply. Save the kit to sell on!!! Canabus

What transmitter , receiver by Nobby-Clark Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi, I’ve built one boat now I’m building a replica of my ship, what is a good 4 or 6 channel transmitter that’s not too expensive to get please. I’m a novice that’s willing to learn.

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 8 days ago
Mark (cujo78) met me today and showed me his Seaplane tender built for his mum when she was little. The white livery is authentic for hot climate ports like Gibraltar

Enterprise 6 by Kevin-56 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 55"/5000g Enterprise 6 Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2x 2150kv (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 120 amp ESC - Comments: This boat was built from a set of plans that I perched years ago. I used the basic plans as a guide for the hull, then built the rest simmerly to the boat called Ocean Alexander 90. It has taken me 18 months to complete, and now she is ready for her first sea trial. Will keep you inform of her performance.

New build by Nobby-Clark Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi I have just built my first cruiser for my youngest son an grandson. I am looking for somewhere to test sail it this Thursday afternoon as it’s his only day off work. Where is ther local please that is safe in case it stalls that it can be retrieved please. Regards Terence

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Indeed you have John👍 if I get time today I'll dig out the winch I used for the trials on my destroyer, only operational boat at the time! Trouble with a destroyer - the stern is so low you can't reach the deck of most boats😲 I had also built a reversible ESC for the winch, a hefty commercial job with about a 385 motor I think. Ran on 6V. Now I have the Southampton tug I was thinking of a much higher derrick, or A frame, on the stern!? Have some 0.5mm nylon line for the tow line, what do you think? As an electronic engineer I sometimes need help with the mechanicals - which others seem to find sooooo easy 😲 Have right now a mechanical problem to solve on my Gina 2 fish cutter - more on that in the Blog. Cheers, Doug 😎

Sea Commander by Nerys Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 34" Sea Commander Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type) Direct Drive to a Caldercraft 750 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (12v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese generic (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from an Aerokits kit. Very pleased with performance, comes up onto the plane quite easily