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>> Home > Tags > bulkhead

Elizabeth by muddy Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth. She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper.. The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

Marie Jeanne (thonier) by Cozwhy Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Bought this kit on eBay and it was already started - just the bulkheads and keel. It's a very detailed French Atlantic tuna boat. Pictures are of the restored "Biche". Sails are treated with tannin which turns them red.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Agreed Ron, that keel joint definitely needs some reinforcement👍 Personally I would do the same between all the bulkheads to give the last plank something to sit on and strengthen the whole shebang. Actually it should be the first plank; start at the keel and work up on alternate sides. 👍 BTW Richard, if you buy a 68cm battery you'll have to build a half full size boat 😉😁 Also, when cutting the planks try to make sure that you don't have short pieces at the stern. They will be harder to keep in place than longer chunks and won't take the hull shape properly and smoothly. Try to keep the joints somewhere in the mid section where the hull is flatter and the joints are under less stress BUT not one above the other, stagger them at least one bulkhead from plank to plank. If you don't get on with the bender (and the hull will be painted and not varnished) you could cheat a little (we all do it when it suits😊) and glue balsa blocks around the stern and carve and sand to fit. @ Frodo, this was originally your thread 😲 - hope you are following and all this helps you as well!? Best of luck to you both, cheers Doug 😎

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hey thanks Ron for the planking for the battery have you got a photograph picture of a hump back battery? Like you mentioned my other option would be to take some of the forward bulkhead out, dam there’s not a lot of space in this model, it’s taken me by surprise still it’s all good experience. In your opinion would you keep the larger motor fitted or would you change it for the smaller version M400? Thanks again for your kind help...Richard

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My only experience of a vacuum formed hull was a slightly smaller Tyne class lifeboat. Was satisfied with it, but glass fibre seems more robust, stiffer and stronger. Imagine a Vac formed hull will need full size stiffening bulkheads, which can be avoided with the GF version. Weight is very much a concern on this model and whilst Vac formed is probably lighter, this advantage may be offset by the additional structure.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by BigAlio Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi can you mount battery across the hull or open up the forward bulkhead ? As for planking lay long plank then join to short plank and go alternate front to back over lapping joints

Hull identity???? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Well I've been trying to sort out my storage areas and found this Hull, but have no idea what type of vessel it is? I was given it many years ago and had forgotten it was in my collection, so I'm appealing for help in deciding what to make with it. It's 36" long with 8" beam. I've never worked with a molded plastic hull before so I'd appreciate any instructions in how to proceed and how to fix frames and bulkheads. I'd like to use either 6 or 12 volts as I have a decaperm and a hectoperm motor to choose from, and a good selection of batteries to choose from. Hopefully Colin.

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp clamps 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Evenin' All, attached the Billings instructions. See Fig. 2, page 18 and Fig. 13, page 29. Seems there are already cut outs in the keel for motor fitting! Seems to me that the motor could be bolted to a simple cross piece which is then bolted or glued to bulkhead #4. Max possible diameter of motor (without having to butcher the keel) can be measured from the profile given in Fig. 13. Your photo shows the motor too far aft, too close to the shaft. The mount should not sit on the bulkhead but forward of it in the recess in the keel. Billings designer obviously foresaw a longer coupling and a smaller motor. Maybe a 400 can size!? I agree, the Billings instructions are more than a bit meagre. 🤔 I've also noticed that the German translation is better and makes more sense than the English version 🤔 If you need any help with that let me know!😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I agree Gascoigne 👍 Classic case of 'things out of context'! Frodo, when the hull is constructed as per instructions I am sure you will find that that stern piece is supported on both sides by laminated pieces. 😊 Then you only have to carefully drill through the middle. On no account drill or cut the stern piece until it is attached to keel and ribs to hold it in position. Otherwise you hardly have a cat in hell's chance of getting the shaft in line with the pre-cut hole in the bulkhead, or even of correctly aligning the stern piece to the keel! Dry fitting to test the accuracy is good, but don't cut or drill until the instructions say to 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

MTB741 Fairmile D by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 58"/9000g MTB741 Fairmile D Capable of 9mph and a runtime of 65mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700BB 12V (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (12v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 30A Tio x 2 (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. It took 3.5 years. Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then fibreglassed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz

Wianno Senior by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Bulkheads in place.

Cabin detail Pt 1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I'll second that 👍👍👍 Lucky you didn't use the 'black' sand paper wet! I did once and it permanently stained the wood black, not just surface effect 😡 Since then I only use dry cabinet paper for finishing raw wood in sensitive areas. With your extended bulkheads I'm wondering where you are going to fit 'the works'! Or is this to be a static display model? Whatever, beautiful woodwork, salutations, Doug 😎