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>> Home > Tags > bulkhead

bulkhead
bulkheads
bulkhead
Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW! The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.

Electronics Down Below (5) by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Superb job, just remember the clearance under the rear deck hatch, the lock stick's down a way, also make a small bulkhead just behind the gearbox, so the battery does not rub on the battery base, it does move slightly and can touch the motor spindles. Mark

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
the motor has arrived today so into the workshop this afternoon, of course it is not going to be straightforward, the motor is much larger than the 540 size so the motor platform is too high. I fixed it down well, I did not want this to come loose, managed to cut it out with one of those vibrating cutter, just leaving the glued pieces to remove , not too difficult with a small wood chisel. So in the process of making a motor platform with new stringers so the platform is lower in the hull, break for tea, now going in to workshop to fix down the stringers to the hull and bulkheads with 2 part epoxy, The motor mount has been fixed to the platform with small nuts and bolts with a locking washer, I am going to epoxy the heads to the underside of the platform, so I can undo the nuts without the bolt spinning, not sure how I will fix the platform in as there is not much depth on the stringers to use screws, so I guess two part epoxy again. Should I start a blog as I think this may be an ongoing tale of woe😊

An experiment with foam board by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I am going to try an experiment with foam board similar to a build that I ran across on the internet. It consists of making the keel and bulkheads with 1/4" foam board or a double thickness if it is thinner. The board that I have will require two thicknesses. If all else fails, it will proof my plans that they are readonably accurate. The inner gunwales and the sheer clamps will be clear pine. Trace the outline of the part, cut out and stick with adhesive spray onto foamboard and cut out. Kere is the partial keel which I labelled "K1". Will post pictures as I progress.

huntsman plan by ChrisF Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes, you can get a copy of the original drawings and model lines but you will still have to draw up all the bulkheads, keel etc. and decide on how you are going to construct the superstructure. Fine if you can do it, but if you just want to get on with building it, get the plans already available.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. It is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, agree with Dave, no need to rush it, think each step through first! Transducers should be mounted on a vertical surface so the sound doesn't vanish into the clouds😉 You want to project across the water. Midships on both sides is ideal. But not right next to a bulkhead, in the middle of an open space is best. Sort out the basics first i.e. propulsion and battery. Heaviest items as low as possible checking for balance and trim as you go. Leave the wheelhouse and special FX to last when you can see what space and weight margin is left. Cheers Doug 😎

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Recently visited the U.K and collected the hull from a relative. It is now back in Canada so a detailed examination can be carried out. First impressions are: 1) The Deans Velarde hull bulwarks have fortunately not been trimmed to the final dimensions, these are marked in pencil. The excess material will really help as the Teakwood forecastle extends further sternwards and this extra material avoids having to build the forward bulwarks up. 2) The hull has many details added to facilitate positioning; portholes, rubbing strakes etc. These will all have to be sanded off as they do not fit the Teakwood. 3) The Velarde has a pronounced “dodger” on top of the bulwarks around the bow. This will also have to be removed. 4) The bow leading edge is quite bluff, possibly to suite the GF manufacturing process. This will probably work in my favour as it can be extended forward and slimmed into the Teakwood style entry, which is sharper and more vertical. 5) The hull is slightly oversize (about .300”) , not enough to be concerned about, but it does make the revised LBP correct! 6) The hull is nicely made and a credit to Deans Marine. The initial plan was to modify the hull shape first to adapt it into the Teakwood. Decided, as it is quite flexible, it would be better to add a keel strip, bulkheads and deck supports first. It would then become rigid enough to work. This revision to my original thoughts proved the best approach. The hull needs several modifications, but until it is rigid it is premature to implement them. The modifications will only prove more difficult and then inaccurate. Made up a number of plywood bulkheads, based upon the MM Velarde plan, but reduced in height to suite the Teakwood. As these are trial fitted into place in the GF hull further adjustments can be made. Once satisfied with the bulkhead fit, they and the keel were epoxied into place. Horizontal stringers were also added to ensure the bulkheads were accurately positioned, vertical and not twisted until the epoxy set. Can probably remove them once the hull structure is compete, although they could also be left in place to support the deck. Will probably largely leave in place. Deck support stringers were also epoxied into place and the hull sides glued to them. The hull is now good and stiff and can be worked safely. As the stern portion will require further adjustment, the sides were left free from the stern bulkhead rearwards. This will allow the rework without cutting through recently fitted items.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mark, many thanks, good tips 👍 Think I'll remove the rear hatch lock completely and hold the hatch down with neodymium magnets. Re Plastic Trays; Don't even want to think about how you found out! 😡Thanks for the warning👍 I'll go careful and maybe add a semi-bulkhead stiffener!? Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Neil, your Dad's dead right! I've come to wonder how the heck I ever found time to go to work😉 important is to know just what you want to do with your time long before you retire - and then DO IT! Like wot i am now 😁 Yep, the cosmetics are to tidy up around all the hull and bulkhead breakthroughs and blend them in to the underlying structure. With special attention to ensuring that all hull breakthroughs (prop shaft / rudder shaft etc) are thoroughly waterproofed!! Good sealing on bulkhead breakthroughs is just(!) for 'Damage Control' to limit the spread of ingressive water in case summat nasty happens🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave, I was answering the query about the new shaft holes in the keel and bulkheads to finally fix the shaft. NOT 'soaking' the whole hull!! Doug

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Neil, forgot to mention, Re the 'new exposed wood': when you are sure the shaft is correctly lined up on the keel soak the hull and bulkhead breakthroughs, wedges etc with 2 part epoxy and leave in a quiet place (!) to cure. This will also seal any exposed wood. Then tidy up, fill and fettle inside and out. ---> Good to go! (As our colonial brothers 😉 say!) Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
I like the layout of yours pmdevlin as its shows me that the bulkhead behind the motor isn't actually structural and I did struggle with it today ended up cutting a section out of it to ease the motor in.