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>> Home > Tags > bulkhead

Slowly does it. by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 10 hours ago
Exactly the ship's screw should be behind the rudder so that the ship responds well and if the shaft is below that angle, the boat will crawl in turns in the water. I would also avoid connecting the shaft with the kardan engine. Just a smaller branch in the water and the kardan bursts. I use the Compact shaft - the motor is screwed directly to the shaft and connected by an aluminum clutch and tightened by screws. Then less tilt of the shaft can be achieved. Or if the kardan engine on the bulkhead in the ship is bolted and does not get as great vibration as in your design.

Scale Sailing Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
Only one thunker left to do and then it's a case of getting the very back end sorted. The lines I used from an American book on yachting history seemed fine, but were awry at the last couple of sections, although somehow these didn't show, so fortunately one bulkhead was knocked out and planks have been adjusted ending in just eyework to get the shapely hull back to a suitable elegant and very slim stern. We'll get there. Drilling down to do the rudder stock will be a major job as it's the entire depth of the rear end of the boat! But nothing brass tube, epoxy and Milliput can't repair, build up, be worked into shape! Cheers, Martin

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
Been busy this weekend, managed to get all the bulkheads finished off & I've finally glued all the structure together🤓👍 More strengthening to be added this week & I'll try & tidy up the glued joints. I'm still trying to work out how I can easily remove the engine cover yet still remain watertight but not fly off at speed. I've got a few ideas involving lots of magnets & a remotely operated latch, I've made a start by glueing a flange along the outside of the main frame. For my plan to work, I'll need to add a half bulkhead in between the air intake & the first bulkhead & another butting up against the the last bulkhead before the transom, they will be the split lines. I'll then have to find a way to strengthen up the removable section so I can cut it free. I'll. keep you posted. Cheers Wayne

The cockpit steps. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
A little bit more cockpit detailing....there's quite a lot to do in there and I want it to look as good as some of the inspiring examples that I have seen on other boats...sorry if I have stolen your ideas 😜 The cockpit steps were made from some 12mm x 3mm mahogany strip that I made up from some 10mm strip glued together and then cut down to the required width. The supplied drawing was to the correct scale so I was able to use this as a template, but one of the legs of each ladder needs to be slightly longer on one side because of the curvature of the tow-hook deck onto which the ladders are fixed. The treads were cut to the correct width and length and the forward edge rounded slightly. After marking the correct height of the treads on the sides I drilled some small holes through the sides into the treads for some 1mm brass rod to reinforce the glued joint. The steps were assembled using superglue and the brass rod helped to keep the piece square and true as the glue set. The protruding brass rod was then cut and filled flush with the sides. After a light sanding a mahogany stain was applied to enhance the colour and then few costs of satin lacquer sprayed to give the final finish. The steps will be fixed through the deck with some hex head wood screws from the underside so that they meet the bulkhead at the upper end without any fixing. I think they have come out quite well 😁. I'm making the foam tanks just at the moment....and I thought the steps were fiddly !! 😲

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Cheers John👍 I'll be cutting out the inside of all the bulkheads next & then I'll glue the structure together, I'm planning on using epoxy but if anyone has any suggestions of a better glue I'm all ears. I'm going to make the spars out of 1mm thick titanium, I'll get the bits laser cut by a mate & I know a very good welder, I just need to draw them up first... Cheers Wayne

The servo mount. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I had originally made a platform and a servo mount out of ply to go in the stern compartment but I found that there was very little clearance left between the top of the servo and the underside of the cockpit deck and the arm and push-rod could foul on something, so I decided to scrap what I had made and invest in something a bit better engineered. I found quite a neat CNC machined aluminium mount on eBay that looked ideal and so I ordered one at a cost of just under £5 including delivery from China. I have not previously bought anything directly from a Chinese seller as I’d heard bad things about long delivery times and getting clobbered for import duty and such but I thought I’d risk it anyway. Surprisingly it arrived about 10 days later without extra costs and is quite well engineered. I decided to fix the servo mount to the bulkhead on some 15mm nylon PCB spacers with an internal 3mm tapped thread that I had in my electronics bits box. This was to allow the servo arm to move unrestricted over it’s travel arc. I used a servo tester to check the operation and it works a treat and looks a million times better that my original mount. I’ll probably replace the clevis attachments for a ball & socket type at a later stage.

The tow hook stays. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The tow hook stays brace the tow hook by tying the tow hook deck to the keel to transfer the load when the boat is towing a seaplane and is a simple structure on the full size boat but as scale feature is quite tricky to reproduce. It also has to be made to allow the rear well deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. so this took a bit of thinking about how to make it easily removable.🤔 As my brass working skills seem to be improving I decided to make this in brass for strength and durability. Mike Cummings at Vintage Model Works had previously very generously supplied me with a set of drawings which included the tow hook detail and these were of great help in the making process.👍😊 First I marked out the fixing plate on some 22 gauge brass and cut and filed it to the correct shape and then two pieces of 6mm brass tube cut to the correct angle where they meets the plate. After some measurement and geometric juggling the cockpit deck was marked with the positions of the holes that the bracing stays pass through and I used my brass ‘cookie cutter’ to make two neat holes through the decking planks for the flanges that the stays pass through but in this case the tubes will finish just below deck level to allow it to be removed. These flanges were made from some 14swg brass plate, filed to a circular shape and with the centre hole pierced and filed to an angle for the tube to pass through with a small clearance gap to allow them to hinge on the two brass pins that I drilled and inserted into the flanges. This hinging feature allows the towing stay assembly to hinge back slightly to aid removal. I drilled the upper ends of the tubes where they meet the fixing plate to take two brass pins that will hold the parts securely in place while soldering and two temporary brass bracing pieces were then soft soldered to the tubes to hold them at the correct angles and separation. All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and assembled and silver soldered together and then the soft soldered braces were removed and the whole assembly cleaned up with abrasive and wire wool. Two false bolt heads were soft soldered to the plate to add a finishing detail, the centre fixing is a cap head threaded screw that fixes the assembly to the cockpit bulkhead. I sprayed two light coats of etch primed and when dry brush painted the whole piece with two coats of ‘gun metal’ grey. Happily the part sits perfectly in place on the deck and hinges back easily as intended so that removal and re-fitting is simple…unlike the process involved in conceiving and making the part 🤓

The deck anti-slip finish. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Canabus. That does look like a pretty good example you have picked up there👍 As Paul says it's good to put your own spin on the refurbishment, yours appears to be 180 degrees judging by your 'photos 😜. I made the opening wheelhouse hatch to allow me to get to the servo that turns my searchlight but I soon realised that I would need much better access to fit the wheelhouse glazing, portholes and all of the metal fittings that are on threaded studs, and of course all of the servo and lighting wiring. I have also got a great deal of inspiration and ideas from this site, for instance I also took a leaf out of Paul's book and cut away some of the wheelhouse bulkhead and cabin former to give me room to get a hand inside the space. It looks like you intend to do the same judging by the pencil marks on the cabin former in your last picture. I can now also, at a later date, put some detail inside the wheelhouse such as steering wheel, instruments and controls fairly easily which would have been impossible before. Good luck with the re-furb. Rob.

Plans for Balsa wood by scout13 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
hang on to your balsa wood and have a look at the wood can be used with grain vertical for curves or it can be joined if you have longer model plans I have a 45inch plank on frame model and the planks are all 10mm balsa and all are joined somewhere along their length or can be used for bulkheads also have a look at Glynn Guest plans most are aimed at beginners hope this helps Yours Scout

Building with a hobbyzone Professional Building Slip by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I agree with Mark. See the pics of my Olympic on the build board (5/8" MDF) with blocks holding the bulkheads. Dave

Building with a hobbyzone Professional Building Slip by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mate, the building slips are ok but why spend the money? a good quality building board (which you will need anyway) fit it with blocks to hold the bulkheads in place, once ready remove the blocks and finish the topsides of the model, fully adjustable to any model you build, plus its a lot stronger, you will need blocks that will fit your bulkheads but these could be offcuts possibly free from a timber yard

Sweet ❤️ ❤️❤️ Heart by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
You have seen it being built. Now it is done. A Nor-Star Kingfisher kit but with some scratch building too. Because of the motor being longer than how the kit was originally designed, the second bulkhead was altered. I am running it with two 2400 Ni-MH 7.2 batteries, a Futoba servo, on a 2.4 GHz Spektrum.

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark

King-Fisher changes made by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Planning to use my belt sander for chines to match the bulkheads as shown in the plan. I do other woodworking such as this toy barn, which I just finished for my grandson's birthday next week.

King-Fisher changes made by Robert Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Grandpa, I started with a direct drive Speed 500 on 6 cells (7.2V) and it didn't have the performance I was looking for. I later changed to the Speed 600 and 8 cells (9.6V) and it made a huge difference. I'm not convinced how effective the cooling coil is as the flow from the outlet is not as much as I anticipated however this could be a function of the poor design of inlet that I'm using. Bottom line is I don't think the cooling coil is necessary. I make up my own battery packs and for this one I use two x four cells, one on each side of the centerline. As I previously stated I was a school boy when I built my original and the hard chines nearly made me throw in the towel. As an impatient youth it appeared to take for ever to plane them to match the bulkheads hence my switch over to laminations of 1/4 x 1/8 on my remake. Have fun and keep up with the posts. Robert