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>> Home > Tags > bulkhead

The deck anti-slip finish. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Canabus. That does look like a pretty good example you have picked up there👍 As Paul says it's good to put your own spin on the refurbishment, yours appears to be 180 degrees judging by your 'photos 😜. I made the opening wheelhouse hatch to allow me to get to the servo that turns my searchlight but I soon realised that I would need much better access to fit the wheelhouse glazing, portholes and all of the metal fittings that are on threaded studs, and of course all of the servo and lighting wiring. I have also got a great deal of inspiration and ideas from this site, for instance I also took a leaf out of Paul's book and cut away some of the wheelhouse bulkhead and cabin former to give me room to get a hand inside the space. It looks like you intend to do the same judging by the pencil marks on the cabin former in your last picture. I can now also, at a later date, put some detail inside the wheelhouse such as steering wheel, instruments and controls fairly easily which would have been impossible before. Good luck with the re-furb. Rob.

Plans for Balsa wood by scout13 Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
hang on to your balsa wood and have a look at the wood can be used with grain vertical for curves or it can be joined if you have longer model plans I have a 45inch plank on frame model and the planks are all 10mm balsa and all are joined somewhere along their length or can be used for bulkheads also have a look at Glynn Guest plans most are aimed at beginners hope this helps Yours Scout

Building with a hobbyzone Professional Building Slip by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I agree with Mark. See the pics of my Olympic on the build board (5/8" MDF) with blocks holding the bulkheads. Dave

Building with a hobbyzone Professional Building Slip by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mate, the building slips are ok but why spend the money? a good quality building board (which you will need anyway) fit it with blocks to hold the bulkheads in place, once ready remove the blocks and finish the topsides of the model, fully adjustable to any model you build, plus its a lot stronger, you will need blocks that will fit your bulkheads but these could be offcuts possibly free from a timber yard

Sweet ❤️ ❤️❤️ Heart by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
You have seen it being built. Now it is done. A Nor-Star Kingfisher kit but with some scratch building too. Because of the motor being longer than how the kit was originally designed, the second bulkhead was altered. I am running it with two 2400 Ni-MH 7.2 batteries, a Futoba servo, on a 2.4 GHz Spektrum.

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark

King-Fisher changes made by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Planning to use my belt sander for chines to match the bulkheads as shown in the plan. I do other woodworking such as this toy barn, which I just finished for my grandson's birthday next week.

King-Fisher changes made by Robert Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Grandpa, I started with a direct drive Speed 500 on 6 cells (7.2V) and it didn't have the performance I was looking for. I later changed to the Speed 600 and 8 cells (9.6V) and it made a huge difference. I'm not convinced how effective the cooling coil is as the flow from the outlet is not as much as I anticipated however this could be a function of the poor design of inlet that I'm using. Bottom line is I don't think the cooling coil is necessary. I make up my own battery packs and for this one I use two x four cells, one on each side of the centerline. As I previously stated I was a school boy when I built my original and the hard chines nearly made me throw in the towel. As an impatient youth it appeared to take for ever to plane them to match the bulkheads hence my switch over to laminations of 1/4 x 1/8 on my remake. Have fun and keep up with the posts. Robert

King-Fisher changes made by Robert Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Grandpa, If you go back through the build logs to 2009 you will find my build log for the Kingfisher. I first made one when I was a school boy many years ago and later came across the plans at my parents house and decided I would try and scratch build from the plans but with a few minor mods (dump the hard chine in favour of laminate strip). Its a great little boat and is very stable in high speed turns. On mine I made the bench seat a drop in accessory and opened up the bulkhead to aford extra space for the motor connections. I'm now running a Speed 600 on eight cells and its got a nice turn of speed. /view/23/2 Robert

King-Fisher changes made by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Got a new stuffing box as recommended. Hopefully this is a better choice? I will need to alter the bulkhead to accommodate the motor. Any other suggestions?

Down east Lobster Yacht by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Found these plans and set about enlarging them on my AutocadLt software. Now I have a set of bulkhead plans to begin making the boat. Anyone have experience with building one of these?

Start detail by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
More side strips on the roof in cedar, then onto the fun stuff. For ease of access and construction I built the control console bulkhead on a seperate sheet of polystyrene card, mahogany detailing from old billings kit leftovers. Aluminium sheet from the tops of large Milo tins made hinges and louvres etc. I always save these as they are just the right thickness and softness for small parts. For the compass; the bits box produced a ballbearing and a piece of brass tube just the right sizes. Heat gunned a piece of acetate and pressed it with the tube over the ball bearing. Instant hemisphere for a handy scrap of aluminium tube as the base. All instruments are from a google search and inkjet printer.I parted off some tube for the larger instrument bezels.

Deck and superstructure by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Next was the deck. First I glued some light coloured veneer I had available, and after sealing it drew lines on with a fine marker, but I didn't like the result. Luckily the next day down at the Menshed they were having a cleanup and were going to throw out a roll of paper backed teak veneer! Lucky or what? So I borrowed a rotary guillotine and cut lots of 6mm strips. Also lots of black card strips 1mm wide for the caulking. Had to use a conventional guillotine for them or they were too curly. Rapid pva worked well here. I used cedar for the bow detail. Sanding sealer rubbed down to 600grit gave me the finish I wanted. Cedar again for the rubbing strips; it bends easily with a bit of heat from a heat gun. Superstructure next; the bulkhead uppers were taped in place and the sides, front and back walls glued and taped nice and snug with the coaming. When set the cockpit sides were fixed. Next came the roof. The plans show a proper double curve unlike the kit, so it has to be planked…. cedar again. A thin slot has to be left in the planking at the cockpit sides to take the windscreen, so you need to know its thickness before doing this. I used .5mm rigid PVC as I could not source acetate. The superstructure was painted next. I had some problems here as the later coats of paint were softening the glue and showing up the planking. Many coats and sanding later I thought I’d use an enamel for the white top coats. It wasn't too smooth so I sprayed it with what was supposed to be clear PU varnish, but it was horribly yellow. I gave it a fine rub down and reverted to good old humbrol and a wide soft brush. Worked out fine!

Caprails in place and Glued by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The Bulkheads are about 1/8" thick, which mean that when putting the Epoxy on to glue the Caprails on. you have to be careful not to let the Epoxy run over the bulkheads. I used a piece of wood 1/16" as an applicator which worked ok.

HSL 102 by simonk Apprentice   Posted: 3 months ago
Hey all, I'm new here. I'm just finishing off a 36" Aerokits RAF Crash Tender that was started in 1962 a couple of generations ago in my family. Keeping it a basic build to the kit for now. While researching stuff I came across HSL 102 and am keen to build a model? Does anyone have leads on getting plans? I have found an information brochure with basic deck plan outline and a long section (no offsets) and also no cross sections at bulkheads... I'm guessing any 100 class info would be useful. Prefer to build out of wood, less interested in plastic. Have scratch built before as a school project in 1990's, jet sprint boat.