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>> Home > Tags > bulkhead

bulkhead
bulkheads
bulkhead
Constructing 'The Box' by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 minutes ago
Phil Smith, the original designer of the Thames River Police Launch, based the construction on a rigid box structure around which bulkhead formers are fixed to give the hull it’s shape, a design feature of many of the Veron kits. In the Vintage Model Works kit all the components of this box are laser cut and require no additional trimming before assembly, I have used Titebond 2 aliphatic glue throughout the construction as it bonds wood very firmly and dries quickly too. I started by joining the edges of the two sheets of balsa that form the base of the box, these were held firmly together with some scrap wood and weighted down on the cutting mat and left to dry. Meanwhile the box sides were similarly glued together taking care that the two pieces that form each box side are in perfect alignment using the laser etched vertical lines that mark the bulkhead former positions, these were also wedged together and weighted while the glue set. Once the bottom and sides are dry the ends can be added to complete the box construction, a try-square was used to check the box for accuracy and everything was held together with some ‘push pins’ while the glue set. As this box forms the foundation of the hull it’s essential that there’s no twist or anything out of square. This was all done in one evening, clearly the assembly of this kit could be completed quite rapidly if you really wanted too!

A577 by colindavies Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 20"/700g A577 - Comments: This model belongs to a friend of mine who had this in his attic where it got damaged and its condition deteriorated, he asked me if I would refurbish it. This is a static model and I have submitted this to help to show the variety of craft that the RAF Marine Branch operated in the 68 years of its existence. The Armoured Target Boat was the brainchild of the Air Ministry's "I've had a good idea" Department. The requirement was for a target boat that could be bombed from the air with practice bombs. The 40ft Armoured Target Boats were developed from the slightly smaller 37.5ft ATBs which had been designed by Scott-Paine and others at British Power Boat in 1932. A couple of years later, in 1934, whilst bringing the first of the 64ft HSLs into service, it was realised by the Air Ministry that the condition of the aircraft had been advancing and that it was necessary to provide additional protection to improve the first type of Armoured Target Boats (the 37.5ft type). T.E. Shaw suggested to Scott-Paine that he should increase the length of the 37.5ft type to 40ft and fit twin rudders. In addition the Air Ministry prepared a new armour plating arrangement which gave separate protection for the crew and engines and coxswain. There was a further alteration to the forward bulkhead which resulted in it being changed to vertical instead of raked fore and aft to overcome the new conditions for bombing. A long series of trials were carried out with the ballast with the 40ft type launch and eventually it was approved. The 40ft thus became the standard type Armoured Target Boat (ATB). The first batch of 15 craft of the 40ft type were ordered in 1935 with further batches being ordered in 1936, 1937 and 1938. A further addition was the introduction of a 3rd engine, this helped to maintain a good speed on the ranges, and helped to counterbalance the the boat as it had been found that in a tight turn the 37.5ft ATB had a tendency to roll over.

Assembly by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi All Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees. When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades. Like I say not enough clamps Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.

Assemble the hull by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
The Bulwarks were out in place on the jig and glued with ZAP 30 minute epoxy. I used the cabin sides to align the bulkheads. By the way Clamps you will need a lot of these

The Building Board by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊

welding by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I really like your approach to the assembly using a jig to ensure squareness and consistency with the bulkheads. its looking good keep it up

Gelyce class "Islay" by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply bulkheads. So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by vortex Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
If the hull is in decent shape structurally i cant see any problem if you get the balance right it should go well. If you are concerned beef up the mounts or put a bulkhead in it or both. Mine now runs on brushless and moves along quite well. I`m sure Jerome Grainger put a Merco or Webra 61 in his Cigarette in the 70`s. I`ve run my Surfury on an Irvine 40 and was pleased with performance and handling, that now runs on a brushless and its quicker. Pics are of Surfury with Irvine 61 which was a bit heavy and my version of the Black Tornado

bulkheads by Kipper Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
The first pic that Green has posted, does show a 'Schottel' drive unit at the left of the plan, no wonder he is confused.

W1 by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
This is my scratch built 36" RNZAF British Power Boat 64' HSL (arrived in NZ 1940). I actually went on board this vessel in 1968 when it was still in original form (the RNZAF having disposed of it in the 50s) This vessel is still around and has been recently re modelled (2nd time since early 70s) and I was lucky last year to have met the present owner and go on board (2nd time in 49yrs!)and take a few photos. The vessel was modified a number of times by the RNZAF over the years (air intakes, removal of the fore deck machine guns, wheelhouse turret etc so I sort of went in the middle. I found a few drawings of the type in an old mag which had side and top views plus the bulkheads and their positions, so I took them along to a copying shop and kept enlarging them until I had the desired proportions. This worked out quite well and using a few methods from other models I had built, managed to frame (ply) the hull and then fully strip plank it in balsa. It was then fiber glassed. The deck is ply, lined and varnish stained. The wheelhouse is varnished balsa and is removable for access (wheelhouse roof is also removable along with engine cover and foredeck access hatch, - small foredeck hatches open as well.). The wheelhouse interior has detail such as controls, instrument panels, skipper, steps to wardroom etc but is not too detailed as it is not seen. The boat has full lighting by remote switch, lights are all LED. All cowls rotate. The propulsion side has dual everything (motors, ESCs, sound units), would have had 3x but ran out of space! Motors are 28mm 2200Kv water jacketed in-runners (cooled by remotely switched pump) using 30A Chinese ESCs (have 5A BEC, Fwd and Rev). Twin sound units are 'GT Power' car units which have around 40 different sound selections, from Cosworths to diesels and are computer programmable (as well as manually on the unit ) for various functions. I am using one of the v8 sounds (8 cyls short in my application) which I think is as near as you are going to get to 3 Napier Sea Lions (for which there is obviously no sound available) They 'start' 'Idle' and are fully proportional in fwd and rev and can sound quite realistic (will attempt to put up a vid later). Batteries are 2x 2200mah 2s 20c LiPos which will last around 2hrs at least of sailing (they also run the sound units) Still have a few small things left to do (have just made wheelhouse air intakes) but don't want to get too fiddly. Just want to keep it a practical model.

Bending thin plywood by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Slightly more comfortable - The bending is done simply by soaking in hot water for 10 - 15 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin/circular object and left a couple of days to dry. The skins must be absolutely dry before fitting as further drying out when glued to the bulkheads will twist the whole hull.

bulkheads by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.

bulkheads by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Gerd, It's not my plan! The plan is from 'green72west' who started this thread and seems to be confusing Schottel and Voith-Schneider. Either that or he wants to use two Z-Drives instead of the Voith drives. His intention is not clear. Either way he doesn't need to cut chunks out of the keel, that's nuts😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

bulkheads by Dampfgerd Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug Your plan show a Voith-Schneider-Propeller