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Many Thanks Doug.. and ok about your saw, my hollowing out of bulkheads mainly concerns a ring saw as a typical electricial would have/use and the inverted jigsaw in the work-mate, the ring saw sets the internal radius, usually about 1" blade. Or a 3/8" drill into the bulkhead preferably close to the inner edge, and then using the jig saw, inverted.. I tend to use the metal work blades for the jigsaw, as they are a much thinner profile enabling tight radi to be tackled..Sea scout, now there a nice size boat , a blast from the past..Tnx for the info..Regards Muddy....
Hi Muddy, i agree with you on the details. Sometimes it is necessary to leave out some of the more filigree stuff for practical operating reasons! Or resort to etched or cast parts. But then they also require assembly and finishing! On reflection, and nipping down to the cellar to check, it's not a band-saw I have but the King Craft electric fretsaw! Technically called a scroll-saw I just learned from Wiki! Has the advantage of using standard 5" fret-saw blades and you can cut internal shapes, e.g. hollowing out bulkheads, without needing an entry cut from the edge 👍😊 So, back to work now, just had a DHL delivery of the remaining parts for my Sea Scout renovation and update 😊😊 Cheers Doug 😎
Just a note about the Bulkheads, There are 1/4" x 1/4" Stringers and 3/8" x 1/8". After the bulkheads were all marked out, remembering the old rule measure twice and cut once. Picked up a piece of 3/8" x 1/8" Obechie and placed it onto the bulkhead checking the marking out, whoops something was wrong the marked location was to small, wishing to return the next day and start cutting at first light, they were remarked, but when i did four from the Transom, for some unknown reason i decided to measure again.. The air was blue..... I had by accident picked up a piece of scrap of 1/2" x 3/16".. A long pause and "to ponder" what to do next. Scrap the bulkheads and start again or make do and mend, 5mm marine ply aint cheap, in other words apply some modelers license.. Modeler's license won, as it usually does. So the stringers were "Shimmed", maybe not pretty, but it worked and hopefully does not make the structure weak..And now its been skinned, who knows about it..!
Hello, after rummaging around the plans bag, and finding the Speranza, which i did start and hope to continue as the infill to this build, sorry Alan... But don't blame me, someone did a post on an old Gentleman's cruiser, and i was hooked, the power of the press hey !.. Away we went, cutting keels, bulkheads, dry fits , fitting stringers, then realizing this is going to be bigger than I though.. Regards Muddy ....
The next piece I tackled was the bulkhead connector to which the assembled hose is connected. This is not a particularly complex piece but I had to engineer it’s attachment to the bulkhead to allow for easy removal. As with the suction pickup I added four short pieces of brass as turning handles to the ‘cover cap’ for the want of a better description, this cap would be undone to reveal the male connector of the pump intake and the cap would have a retaining chain. This chain would presumably be attached to the bulkhead in some way but I needed it to attach to the base of the fitting. I drilled a hole through the spigot on the cover cap and formed a loop from some brass wire for the chain attachment. Similarly I drilled the base and made another wire loop for the chain attachment there. I didn’t have any suitable chain so I thought I would have a go at making some by winding about 20 turns of brass wire around a piece of thin brass rod which I then cut through lengthwise with a hacksaw to produce some brass loops. These loops were then flattened, linked and closed to form the chain and a short length of the finished chain attached to the fitting. Very fiddly work and a test of the eyesight 🤓 As mentioned, I needed to make the fitting easily removable without using screws or a threaded stud as it needs to be removed without tools to allow the cockpit floor to be lifted out. To achieve this I put a 3mm thread into the rear of the fitting and then threaded a piece of 3mm brass rod to go into that. I made a retainer to go into the bulkhead that would provide a friction fit for the hose connector. This was made from a short length of 3mm I/D brass tube set into another short supporting piece of 4mm I/D tube and a piece of 14 swg brass plate, all the parts were silver soldered together with the 3mm tube protruding the plate by the thickness of the bulkhead. The 3mm tube was cut crossways to form some ‘fingers’ that will grip the 3mm shaft of the fitting. To provide extra grip I used a piece of rubber sleeve and a small pipe clip over the ‘fingers’. This piece was glued into a 4mm hole in the bulkhead with the end of the tube flush with the bulkhead. The hose connecter is then pushed into this retainer with a firm friction grip but is easily removed without any tools. Definitely getting the hang of working with brass now 😁 Still not inclined to by a lathe though 😜 The remaining fittings should be a lot easier...I hope.
While waiting for a second coat of epoxy to dry on my other model i enlarged some plans of an old Sea Hornet kit that I purchased a few days ago. I copied them 25% larger which gives length of 32 inches i then cut out the keel and bulkheads, i have only fitted them loosely for the picture. .
Hmm! Looking closer I don't see any shaping of the outboard edges of the bulkheads!? 😲 This is essential to do before planking to ensure proper seating (greater glue contact area) of the planks and maintaining the correct hull shape. Use a medium grade sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood ca 2 x 1 and at least as long as the length along 3 adjacent bulkheads. If I've missed some detail please ignore the ramblings of an old man, if not ....! Cheers Doug 😎
..Started on the planking, with 3mm x 5mm Obechie strip, leaving a gap in the planks so as one can see whats going on with the alignment of the prop shaft/coupling. Motor mount formed in 2mm Ally and fitted. Planking was completed, not forgetting the bulkhead that overlooks the well deck, this was veneered, as was the Transom. Deck was laid in 1.5mm ply, but when it was all finished, it did not appeal to me at all, don't know why, so this was later planked to give a better sort'of look, although i believe the original full size is a painted deck. My version is now a Stand Off Scale, the dimensions are very close to scale but the finish has a lot of modelers license. Regards Muddy....
This Motor/Sailor was started in 2014 after a pal went on holiday to the New Forest, and arrived on the day when the Setley Pond MBC were there.. He Photographed two of these models, and when they were viewed, I was hooked. Plans and a CD were organised from the club/members, What a great set of Guys at Setley Pond Club. Scratch build was the order of the day . She was built with whatever materials i had here, mainly 5mm ply and Obechie strip, 3mm x 5mm.. The keel is laminated , three pices of 5mm and the bulkheads are 5mm. Some bulkheads had patterns made but most was traced then pin pricked onto the ply. A lot of dry fit's took place before the bulkheads were hollowed out , egg-box fashion framing was fitted to the top of the frames again in 5mm ply with some strip Obechie 10mm x 20mm forming the hatch openings. The prop shaft was slotted and built in as the keel was laminated. Regards Muddy....
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films were peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁
This is one that i,ve yearned after for some considerable years. Had the plans in the 1960's, I think, but it was always put on the back burner. But needs must, we have a big sailing lake now and a Sea Queen looks ideal on this water. Speranza, built from Plans, first thing source the timber, 5mm ply for keel and bulkheads,and Obechie 6mm X 3mm laminated for stringers and chine lines. Transferring bulkheads/frames to the timber can be daunting, but several methods can be applied. Personally i prefer to Trace the outline and detail then pin prick the outlines onto the timber, you can do this direct from the plan, but using tracing paper or drafting film saves the drawing from disintegrating. Have used carbon paper in the past, but I did find this a bit messy, a personal choice.
Exactly the ship's screw should be behind the rudder so that the ship responds well and if the shaft is below that angle, the boat will crawl in turns in the water. I would also avoid connecting the shaft with the kardan engine. Just a smaller branch in the water and the kardan bursts. I use the Compact shaft - the motor is screwed directly to the shaft and connected by an aluminum clutch and tightened by screws. Then less tilt of the shaft can be achieved. Or if the kardan engine on the bulkhead in the ship is bolted and does not get as great vibration as in your design.
Only one thunker left to do and then it's a case of getting the very back end sorted. The lines I used from an American book on yachting history seemed fine, but were awry at the last couple of sections, although somehow these didn't show, so fortunately one bulkhead was knocked out and planks have been adjusted ending in just eyework to get the shapely hull back to a suitable elegant and very slim stern. We'll get there. Drilling down to do the rudder stock will be a major job as it's the entire depth of the rear end of the boat! But nothing brass tube, epoxy and Milliput can't repair, build up, be worked into shape! Cheers, Martin
Been busy this weekend, managed to get all the bulkheads finished off & I've finally glued all the structure together🤓👍 More strengthening to be added this week & I'll try & tidy up the glued joints. I'm still trying to work out how I can easily remove the engine cover yet still remain watertight but not fly off at speed. I've got a few ideas involving lots of magnets & a remotely operated latch, I've made a start by glueing a flange along the outside of the main frame. For my plan to work, I'll need to add a half bulkhead in between the air intake & the first bulkhead & another butting up against the the last bulkhead before the transom, they will be the split lines. I'll then have to find a way to strengthen up the removable section so I can cut it free. I'll. keep you posted. Cheers Wayne