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>> Home > Tags > bulwark

bulwark
bulwark
Thurl pin rack by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi all I have just spoken to Brian at Mobile Marine and he advised the term was based on a very old English name for belaying pins. Basically its a wooden plank with holes for the belaying pins and fastened in a raised position to the deck. The shrouds are wrapped in a figure of eight round the belaying pins which in an emergency can be knocked out to release. They are used on the davit fixings, not the mast. I have small hooks on the shrouds to the bulwarks and on the fore mast fitting. My model requires the top cabin to be removable so I have made a fixing out of wire that can be quickly released from the white metal fitting on both sides.

The Fun Starts by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Now the fun starts I started by rubbing down the inside of the bulwarks, in doing so I found that they had not been taken down to their correct level. so I started by removing the excess until they were all at the correct level. I the started to fitting all new deck beams and tided up the gunge that had been used to fix the shafts and rudder posts, You my ask whey have I not use filler to smooth out the bulwarks, well I am going to try plastic card, I am hoping that it will work so when I come to fit all the rib's to the bulwarks I can use liquid glue and not super glue. Sorry but I will have to post the photos later as the battery in my camera need's charging. Fred

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The wheelhouse was made out of styrene sheet, suitably shaped and heated to get the correct contours. It was left loose as, until the funnel is made, in some doubt about the shape and size of the cut-out needed in the navigation deck. The structure is essentially complete; glazed and painted. Until the funnel research is finished have now moved on to other items. Started making the hatch covers to establish interior hull access and to confirm the best battery that can be inserted through them. Not made a final decision on the battery size or type yet. Hatch access is limited, so gell cells are out. Vacillating between Ni-Mh and Li-Po, but have had better experience with Li-Po. The hatches are the McGregor folding type, but the GA has few details of them. Fortunately my SD 14 plans have full dimensions so copied those. On the SD 14 made the hatch coamings (sides) as males and fitted them through apertures in the deck. On Teakwood decided to build up a small wood coaming around the hatch aperture and then have the hatch coamings fit, slightly loosely (female) over them. This is a much better approach. All the coamings can now be made from the same strip so the hatches immediately stand equally above the deck. Also, shims can be inserted into the hatch coamings so the alignment can be adjusted to get them to line up accurately. It will be a better way to keep water out, although cannot see that ever being much of an issue. Added the accommodation ladder recesses in the bulwarks. In future, must remember to add them before the hull is finished as repairing damage should not be needed with better planning. Happy Christmas and Best Wishes for 2018

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Having corrected the bow problem, returned to the superstructure. The original plan was to try to reproduce the whole of the superstructure, right back to the rear of # 5 hold in one continuous piece of styrene. It would be cut and then filed out to fit the front panel right through to the rear on both sides. This would avoid any joints and discontinuities and it was hoped would capture the flowing lines more accurately. Measured and found the piece would be over 42'' long! Decided this would be difficult to cut accurately and would probably never fit. Gave up on the idea and made the piece up in three sections; the front and both sides. The sides would be from an assembly of styrene strips and various precut shapes, the front from one styrene piece. After making several measurements and then templates, made a complete front panel from a cereal packet and from it cut the proposed panel out. Left the solid areas oversize so could file and sand to the correct size and shape. Once was reasonably confident the panel would fit, heated and bent the corners around a steel rod to get the correct radius. Throughout this kept offering the panel up into place making sure the radius and dimensional adjustments were satisfactory. Finally glued it into place. Once glued in place, cut the lower edges to follow the hull bulwark contour. Used a similar technique for the sides and finally glued them into place and together. Sanded to remove traces of adhesive. Fitted LED navigation and wheelhouse lights, but left the wheelhouse structure off as the funnel size and shape will determine the navigation deck cut-out. This will be added after the funnel has been researched and made.

M. V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results. Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned. The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model. The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling! Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly. Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Twin Esc/Mixer by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi NPJ I took and ran white thread through the holes that are on the tires. Then made a knot on the inside of the bulwark (inner sides) that's it.

Moving along towards finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
After beck paint dried overnight, spent an hour painting the deck boards before alit of masking followed by spray painting the bulwarks. I have installed the stanchions. Tomorrow will see any areas of touching up required (tip- if using rattlecans, gently spray some into the cap which can then be used for touch ups, clean brush using cellulose thinners) and then final coats of laquer. After all this it will be on with the final fittingbif rope work and s few other bits n bobs

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!

Finishing line in sight! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Had a couple of hours of good light after work so cracked on a bit more. Finished the last Bulwark and all the splash boards (if thats what they are called?), sanded and sealed. Last job of the day was to spend some time masking the whole hull leaving just the deck available for a few coats of Halfords grey primer which will be the final deck colour. No more work until saturday now, but next thing is to continue masking leaving the Bulwarks available for spraying white. This to be followed by stanchions, rope work, anchor and some weathering before a final few coats of laquer (Less the deck that will be matt varnished. Still a few jobs beyond all this inc bath test and ballast as required and a few other bits n bobs, but she's getting there!

Bulwarks, bollards, cleats and stanchions! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Another good day of detailing before light stopped play! Have now got 3 out oif 4 of the Bulwarks fitted, sanded and sealed ready to prime, will do the last one tomorrow after work. Have also fitted the fore and aft Bollards and side cleats. Have also drilled and test fitted one side of the stanchions which I am delighted with, really starting to look the part now. So, all thats left now is the final Bulwark, drill for remaining stanchions then prime and paint the deck, Bulwarks ect. Then final coats of laquer before adding the stanchions, wash boards and the various rope work, anchor ect. Another week or so inbetween work should see it finished!

Bulwarks - and 1st blood! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. It is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.

Superstructure finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Thanks Dave, some helpful info there. Looking at pics of the real thing, it appears that the bulwark fore/aft stanchions are fitted on top of the bulwarks? However for ease and probably strength most people seem to have fitted the stanchions to the inside of the bulwarks which is what I will do. As for the washports, I shall replicate those. I plan on leaving my rubbing strake black as the most recent pics of the "Douglas Currie" show it like so. Hull painting starts today then I shall start building the stanchions at work tonight!