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>> Home > Tags > bulwark

bulwark
bulwark
Getting ready by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum moved their Model Boat Expo back to May and I'm getting Constellation ready to sail. It's a tradition now that I have some progress to show each time she sails, so this time I want to set the courses. Since her last sail the aft bulwark was added and new winch drums made, and a wedge added to the cart to keep her from sliding back. Putting her on and off her ballast was a pain by myself, so I ground off the threads on the rods for about a centimeter so they act like pins and hold the boat in place while I thread in the other rod. That little hack was much simpler than figuring out some sort of cradle to fit on the cart. I looked at all sorts of ways to control the courses, and the simplest method was sort of a yard at the bottom, but one that wasn't obvious. I used a length of vinyl coated clothes hanger and sew pocket onto the clews on the backside of the sails. In the center of the foot, I sewed a sleeve. The rod goes through the sleeve and onto the pockets. If I need to reduce sail, I can easily pull out the rods and bunt up the sail. I also figured I'll set the two gaff-headed Spencer sails. So far I sewed hoops on the forward one. Their a line on it to brail it up if I need to lose it. The t'gallants and royals will get hooks on the halyards, and some sort of easy release on their sheets, so I can take them off, yard and all, if it's too windy. If need be, I should be able to brail up the spencers, bunt up the courses, and remove the t'gallants and royals all in just a few minutes, and have her down to just tops'ls, spanker, and jibs. If THAT's too much sail, well, then it's just too windy to sail. Hopefully I'll get to sail her with all 17 sails set! The other bit of "progress" for this sail will be to use both winches. Previously I used one winch to control the main corse yard, and the fore and mizzen were slaved to it. Last time I controlled the fore tops'l yard and slaved the main and mizzen to the fore. This time the main and mizzen tops'l yard will be controlled together on their own winch, and the fore tops'l yard will be controlled separately on it's own winch. This way, when I come-about or tack, I can back the fore against the wind to push the bow across. So, I was looking at images of the real ship to refresh my memory of how the main and mizzen brace were led when I noticed the main tops'l brace was anchored in the rig in one place when sail was set, and another place without sails. Looking around I found there was some sort of ring or band that slide up and down the mizzen topmast pushed by the tops'l yard parrel when it was raised and lowered to set or take in sail. I'd never noticed that sort of thing before, but looking at images of ship contemporary to Constellation, I found it was actually pretty common place, and I even saw it done on a few British ships of the 1850's and later. Always learning something new.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
R E the planking i would suggest that you cut the timber at the closest bulk head to where the blank ends then with the length of timber that you cut of the end piece use that for the next plank starting at the opposite end to the last one and just keep repeating as you go, that way you dont get joints in the same area along the hull making it stronger just remember that you need to cut at a bulwark and to leave half of the thickness of the bulwark for your next joining timber. do not cut the lengths in half as all you end up doing is wasting a lot of material and joints in the same area of the hull resulting in a weak point. Ron

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Excellant job.Thanks for the hint of using the thread.Looks better than magic marker on the edge of the planks.

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi That is looking good.👍 Keep up the good work, looking forward to your updates. Fred

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I haven't posted for a while as I have only been running on three cylinders, but all four firing now, so off we go. An edging is glued around the boatdeck, this then allows a thin piece of plasticard to be glued in place for the boatdeck bulwark, after the glue had dried, planks cut from a sheet of veneer were glued inside and out and the bulwark and finished with a teak capping. A cardboard template was made for the boatdeck overlay planking, this was then transferred onto 1mm ply for the planking to be laid on. Using planks cut from a sheet of veneer and cotton thread for the caulking, Aliphatic glue, a tooth pick and my best glasses the planking was completed. The finished planking was given several coats of clear lacquer rubbing down in between coats to give it a nice finish. Planking at this scale with fine thread as caulking is definitely a labour of love.

Bulwark capping by Baggie Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks to all of you re your posts of your various builds - I am learning a lot from you, your ways of adapting and with the photos, understanding much about building. My Wills Everard is coming on and I am, I think doing OK.

Bulwark capping by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Looking good Alan, as RNinMunich said good tip on the bending of the bulwark. Fred

Bulwark capping by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Nice job Alan👍 Good bending tips too, cheers Doug 😎

Bulwark capping by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back] The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry. I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve. After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry. Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's. The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright.

Bulwark supports by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Nice one Alan 👍 Can sympathise re all the bulwark supports 🤔 Had a similar trial of patience when I soldered dozens of stanchion supports for my HMS Hotspur, and then had to super glue 'em to the deck😲 So far so good 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Bulwark supports by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The deck and bulwarks were given another coat of paint, after this had dried the wash ports and rope hawsers were masked off and the hull given two coats of red primer, the water line was marked using a pencil on a block of wood, bottom part of the hull masked off and the top part given two coats of satin black. Starting to look like a boat now. The rope crate was made out of plasticard to be a good tight fit on the coaming. The bulwark positions were marked with pencil on the top of the bulwark. After cutting them all out of plasticard, each one was sanded to fit it's position, then keeping them in order and sticking them to upside down masking tape they were sprayed with paint. All the supports were glued into position with super glue, a toothpick and my best glasses.

Decks by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.

Bulwarks and deck supports by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Fred, you did pass on the information thanks, and I have read the builds. Thought I would post my build on this site as I have had a lot of help from people here. I am going to try to give a bit more detail of the build, bad bits and all. Alan

Bulwarks and deck supports by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Alan P I do not know if 1 if I have pasted this on to you via another forum or 2 if you have seen this post from another forum http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7930.... Liking your build👍 Fred

Bulwarks and deck supports by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The next stage was to smooth out the Bukwarks so that a deck support could be fitted around the hull, the washports and rope hawsers were cut out, if I was to do this again I would cut these out after filling the bulwarks. P38 was used to smooth out the Bulwarks, this really was a labour of love, lots of filling and sanding. For the deck support around the hull I used 3mm lime (Ikea blinds) two layers to give 6mm support glued with Araldite. The rest of the deck supports were then glued in place, I think it was at this stage that I added the two battery placements after having the hull in the bath to work out were they had to go.