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>> Home > Tags > bulwark

bulwark
bulwark
M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Twin Esc/Mixer by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi NPJ I took and ran white thread through the holes that are on the tires. Then made a knot on the inside of the bulwark (inner sides) that's it.

Moving along towards finished! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
After beck paint dried overnight, spent an hour painting the deck boards before alit of masking followed by spray painting the bulwarks. I have installed the stanchions. Tomorrow will see any areas of touching up required (tip- if using rattlecans, gently spray some into the cap which can then be used for touch ups, clean brush using cellulose thinners) and then final coats of laquer. After all this it will be on with the final fittingbif rope work and s few other bits n bobs

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!

Finishing line in sight! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
Had a couple of hours of good light after work so cracked on a bit more. Finished the last Bulwark and all the splash boards (if thats what they are called?), sanded and sealed. Last job of the day was to spend some time masking the whole hull leaving just the deck available for a few coats of Halfords grey primer which will be the final deck colour. No more work until saturday now, but next thing is to continue masking leaving the Bulwarks available for spraying white. This to be followed by stanchions, rope work, anchor and some weathering before a final few coats of laquer (Less the deck that will be matt varnished. Still a few jobs beyond all this inc bath test and ballast as required and a few other bits n bobs, but she's getting there!

Bulwarks, bollards, cleats and stanchions! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
Another good day of detailing before light stopped play! Have now got 3 out oif 4 of the Bulwarks fitted, sanded and sealed ready to prime, will do the last one tomorrow after work. Have also fitted the fore and aft Bollards and side cleats. Have also drilled and test fitted one side of the stanchions which I am delighted with, really starting to look the part now. So, all thats left now is the final Bulwark, drill for remaining stanchions then prime and paint the deck, Bulwarks ect. Then final coats of laquer before adding the stanchions, wash boards and the various rope work, anchor ect. Another week or so inbetween work should see it finished!

Bulwarks - and 1st blood! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. It is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.

Superstructure finished! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 29 days ago
Thanks Dave, some helpful info there. Looking at pics of the real thing, it appears that the bulwark fore/aft stanchions are fitted on top of the bulwarks? However for ease and probably strength most people seem to have fitted the stanchions to the inside of the bulwarks which is what I will do. As for the washports, I shall replicate those. I plan on leaving my rubbing strake black as the most recent pics of the "Douglas Currie" show it like so. Hull painting starts today then I shall start building the stanchions at work tonight!

Superstructure finished! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I attached the plastic tube that came with the original kit with long brass nails. You need to just fit them so that you dont squash the tube. I painted the tube with a darkish red Humbrol before fitting. The fore and aft bits are the bulwarks and there is also a small rail running along the edges of the deck, but set in slightly. On the real boat they carried the stanchion bearers and acted as a foot stop. They also need to have washports to allow deck water to run off. I've attached a few pics of my Solent FYI. I agree it was not a scale model but at the time we used IC engines that required easy and large access and this was one of the more realistic models available. Many like yourself have added lots of detail and the finished result will look the part and will be a credit to you. Looking forward to seeing the finished Oxford Blue hull.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.

Removing The Deck by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Removing the Deck............ Should have said before, note when removing these screws they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes and putting them in a lidded container. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks, it requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pic 8. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 11.(not got the hang of this yet!) What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pics 9/10. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ