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>> Home > Tags > bulwark

17-28 Torbay Severn Lifeboat by TheBlacksmith Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
The Southampton has lots of screws around the deck but some are under the bollards so you need to remove them, there are two aft bollards which need to be gently prised loose but the others are scewed to the bulwarks. I changed the radio in mine as well as the motor/gearboxes and fitted a v.tail mixer from with 2 speed contollers as well as converting the battery holder to take a six volt nimh pack. The effect is awesome. Happy sailing😁

Live and learn! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK, I've learned that. When paint companies make a batch of paint. You should get as many cans from that batch as possible! For a set project if need be! I used Bright Touch automotive paint. For the bulwark and outer hull. Had to get two more cans of the stuff. It being BT43 Flat Black! Wouldn't you know it's a different shade!😡 Not too far off but, noticeable! At least the Red Oxide Primer. Being BT51 is the same shade! I must have lucked out on that one! So what have I learned. Get two or more cans if needed at the same time!👍

Steep angled rudder shafts by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Ron, there is nowhere near enough space for that and also the twisted arms would still move through a strange path. I have snakes, but they don't seem to work as well as the man suggested. So, I've ordered a universal joint in steel which fits a 4mm shaft. I will take a short bit of 4mm out of the top on which will be the arm I've made, but that will need a bearing (just thought of that as I typed) otherwise it will flop about all over the place. Damn! More space I haven't got. Looks like the pulley idea might be the only way of working it, but getting access to those pulleys would be very awkward. I have very little space back there. We're in the lazarette and that was bend double territory on the real boat. The only other way would be to actuate the tiller on deck, once again with pulleys. I'm making the tiller currently. I may have to look into a deck operated system, with the line coming out of the middle of the deck and then via a pulley on either bulwark. Cheers, Martin

Bulwark capping by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Looks very shipshape Baggie, or is it a toast rack 😁 Unusual construction style in two halves. Look forward to seeing how it turns out 👍 Build Blog???

Duke of Cornwall by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 51"/7000g Duke of Cornwall Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electrinize (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a static scratch built model constructed by a model engineer probably in 1970s, I was gifted the boat by the local RNLI Branch with the proviso I looked after it and occasionally displayed it on Flag Days. The boat is a model of the Lizard and Cadgwith lifeboat 'Duke of Cornwall' which saw service for 20 years and saved 95 lives. I have fitted 6 channel San,wa remote control and the Torpedo engines and batteries. She runs very well on the water and achieves a good scale speed when both motors are at full power. Batteries are 12 volt gel type and new, I have never had a problem with endurance. Control is by two Electronize speed controllers which plug in independently to receiver. She has a two tone siren, worked from retract servo switch, which is useful for clearing a way through birds. Steering (like the real thing) was rather sluggish, a single blade rudder but it improves by using the two engines. She is pretty heavy to lift into the car, I use nylon strops to lower her into water. I have done several adjustments to her topside so that she more correctly resembles the 1962 Barnett lifeboat she is modelled on, main adjustment was to put mahogany veneer onto to forward and rear bulwarks, as the originals had. The original boat topside was painted grey and it was only later that areas were painted orange, she is a non self righting lifeboat one of the last of this type and modifications were made in the mid sixties to seal off the rear doors and provide a watertight compartment, as well as fully enclosing the wheelhouse (the model's wheelhouse is open at the rear, as was the original. All hatches and doors open. The railings are chain link and seem to be a very good match to the ones fitted. My only issue at the moment is the radio wires which seem to be very vulnerable, have used electric thread but not a great solution - something to look out for. I have purchased 3 crew and am about to paint them, two will be in the wheelhouse.

Getting ready by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum moved their Model Boat Expo back to May and I'm getting Constellation ready to sail. It's a tradition now that I have some progress to show each time she sails, so this time I want to set the courses. Since her last sail the aft bulwark was added and new winch drums made, and a wedge added to the cart to keep her from sliding back. Putting her on and off her ballast was a pain by myself, so I ground off the threads on the rods for about a centimeter so they act like pins and hold the boat in place while I thread in the other rod. That little hack was much simpler than figuring out some sort of cradle to fit on the cart. I looked at all sorts of ways to control the courses, and the simplest method was sort of a yard at the bottom, but one that wasn't obvious. I used a length of vinyl coated clothes hanger and sew pocket onto the clews on the backside of the sails. In the center of the foot, I sewed a sleeve. The rod goes through the sleeve and onto the pockets. If I need to reduce sail, I can easily pull out the rods and bunt up the sail. I also figured I'll set the two gaff-headed Spencer sails. So far I sewed hoops on the forward one. Their a line on it to brail it up if I need to lose it. The t'gallants and royals will get hooks on the halyards, and some sort of easy release on their sheets, so I can take them off, yard and all, if it's too windy. If need be, I should be able to brail up the spencers, bunt up the courses, and remove the t'gallants and royals all in just a few minutes, and have her down to just tops'ls, spanker, and jibs. If THAT's too much sail, well, then it's just too windy to sail. Hopefully I'll get to sail her with all 17 sails set! The other bit of "progress" for this sail will be to use both winches. Previously I used one winch to control the main corse yard, and the fore and mizzen were slaved to it. Last time I controlled the fore tops'l yard and slaved the main and mizzen to the fore. This time the main and mizzen tops'l yard will be controlled together on their own winch, and the fore tops'l yard will be controlled separately on it's own winch. This way, when I come-about or tack, I can back the fore against the wind to push the bow across. So, I was looking at images of the real ship to refresh my memory of how the main and mizzen brace were led when I noticed the main tops'l brace was anchored in the rig in one place when sail was set, and another place without sails. Looking around I found there was some sort of ring or band that slide up and down the mizzen topmast pushed by the tops'l yard parrel when it was raised and lowered to set or take in sail. I'd never noticed that sort of thing before, but looking at images of ship contemporary to Constellation, I found it was actually pretty common place, and I even saw it done on a few British ships of the 1850's and later. Always learning something new.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
R E the planking i would suggest that you cut the timber at the closest bulk head to where the blank ends then with the length of timber that you cut of the end piece use that for the next plank starting at the opposite end to the last one and just keep repeating as you go, that way you dont get joints in the same area along the hull making it stronger just remember that you need to cut at a bulwark and to leave half of the thickness of the bulwark for your next joining timber. do not cut the lengths in half as all you end up doing is wasting a lot of material and joints in the same area of the hull resulting in a weak point. Ron

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Excellant job.Thanks for the hint of using the thread.Looks better than magic marker on the edge of the planks.

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi That is looking good.👍 Keep up the good work, looking forward to your updates. Fred

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I haven't posted for a while as I have only been running on three cylinders, but all four firing now, so off we go. An edging is glued around the boatdeck, this then allows a thin piece of plasticard to be glued in place for the boatdeck bulwark, after the glue had dried, planks cut from a sheet of veneer were glued inside and out and the bulwark and finished with a teak capping. A cardboard template was made for the boatdeck overlay planking, this was then transferred onto 1mm ply for the planking to be laid on. Using planks cut from a sheet of veneer and cotton thread for the caulking, Aliphatic glue, a tooth pick and my best glasses the planking was completed. The finished planking was given several coats of clear lacquer rubbing down in between coats to give it a nice finish. Planking at this scale with fine thread as caulking is definitely a labour of love.

Bulwark capping by Baggie Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks to all of you re your posts of your various builds - I am learning a lot from you, your ways of adapting and with the photos, understanding much about building. My Wills Everard is coming on and I am, I think doing OK.

Bulwark capping by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Looking good Alan, as RNinMunich said good tip on the bending of the bulwark. Fred

Bulwark capping by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Nice job Alan👍 Good bending tips too, cheers Doug 😎

Bulwark capping by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back] The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry. I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve. After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry. Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's. The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright.

Bulwark supports by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Nice one Alan 👍 Can sympathise re all the bulwark supports 🤔 Had a similar trial of patience when I soldered dozens of stanchion supports for my HMS Hotspur, and then had to super glue 'em to the deck😲 So far so good 👍 Cheers Doug 😎