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>> Home > Tags > cabin roof

cabin roof
water proofing
cabin roof
Cabin roof mechanism by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 12 hours ago
I named my shed, The Boat Shed. Its a brick built building 13 ft x 10 ft. It was here when we moved here. And that's where I used my name from on here. So yes you are correct. The last 2 I bought were a RTR Proboat Miss Geeco and a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull ARTR.

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 hours ago
Many Thanks MT, 👍 You're right! I've already marked out the 'hatch' on some 1.5mm mahogany to match the roof. Have to think about the surround, i.e. have a rummage through the bits box! But I reckon you're right again, it would look better with some sort of frame. Still haven't figured out what to do with the cockpit, or even what scale crew I should be looking for ... Help!😲 Re Cabin roof detail .. That's it for now, until I start fiddling with mast and lights an' such 😉 What did you want to know? I've got a ship's wheel ca 1", some chrome deck fittings and Skydive has given me some inspiration regarding the 'Pulpit' rail, apart from that ...... Ciao, Doug 😎 Just remembered; I've started cutting out some 1.5mm mahog strip to make the wooden handrails on the roof. More later 😊

Cabin roof mechanism by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 14 hours ago
Boatshed by name and by the size of your fleet apparently!

Cabin roof mechanism by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 23 hours ago
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.

Cabin roof mechanism by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 24 hours ago
It never ceases to amaze me on the amount of detail some modelers are prepared to go to on their model builds. I wish I had the resources and inclination to do all of this. with what is shown here and all the work robob put into his build. I wish I had a lathe and all the other tooling that some have. I just love to see these build blogs. keep showing the progress of this one please. I does give idea's and inspiration.

Cabin roof mechanism by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
great job so far! really well done, I had a similar thought regarding cabin detail, and the somewhat difficult access, and then, how can it be seen after all that hard work? My 3 foot aerokits boat has a removeable roof, it just drops on top, and is held in position by one m3 bolt ina central position under the hatch, its a "loose" interference fit. One convern following this, is water entry, it does splash up. With my 4 foot boat, I decided against a removable roof, as I knew this boat will work hard, and my clumsly hands might be prone to knocking things off, so I opened up the rear wall of the wheelhouse to gain access, with a removable panel which encompasses the rear sliding windows. I gave the cabin some dash detail, and always promised to return to the floor, and drivers seat etc, but never have. I like it when we see builders individual takes on things, whilst the boats are essentially all the same, it makes them individual, and we all put our own stamp on things. Your engineering skilss are magnificent!👍

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway. Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge. This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉 These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1. The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat. Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck. Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊 Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6. After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10. Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁 BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉 Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour! E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black! So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎

Cabin roof mechanism by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi MT, the 'common' supply lines could be used for running lights, which all come on together, via a tiny distribution board (e.g. Vero Board) set into the cabin roof. I'm contemplating a similar arrangement for my Sea Scout. In your case just make sure that there are no hinges / pivot points in the line. I.e. solder an extendable loop of wire to the last element of your lifting mechanism and connect this to the distribution board. If you want to fit separate roof mounted searchlights etc it gets more complicated, but doable I think. More power to your innovation, cheers Doug 😎

Anchor chain tubes by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hawsepipes Old Chap, Hawsepipes! 😁 Pronounced hawse(r)pipe. Build is coming on fine, very tidy work 👍 The weights you use look extremely familiar 😉 Did the same with the cabin roof for my Sea Scout reno. Carry on Blogging, cheers Doug 😎

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎

The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Evenin' MT, Thanks👍 Yep I know blooming from my car restoration days. Causes a dull satin effect with some whitish fogging 😡 That's not what happened here, suddenly a patch of yellowish spots appeared under the gloss!😭 Only thing I can think of is that with the last flattening with 3000 grit I used a drop of liquid soap to lubricate the sanding sponge, gives that almost glass finish. Maybe some soap residue was still there and the next lacquer coat reacted with it? The soap is a trick I learned during car repairs. Of course then I could wash it all off with a big sponge and chuck a bucket of water over it! Not such a good idea with a model wooden boat🤔 Re 'Your skins' 😲 I used mahogany 'because it was there' and I suddenly had a picture in my mind what it could look like (Riva style😉) if I could do the job right! I'm pretty happy with how it eventually worked out 😊 Not sure that a mahog roof fits the image of an RAF boat? and painting it would be a shame 🤔 But if you do decide to use it you may have more luck with 0.5mm, mine was 1mm+. What are the 'existing skins'? Re clothing: I didn't do that, didn't want to risk obscuring the wood grain on the outside and the inside I had sealed with two coats of EzeKote anyway. Cloth would have been superfluous. But if you're going to paint the roof anyway then - why not? Would give strength and rigidity. Thicker ply? More than 0.5 / 0.6mm and you may have the problem I had with the compound curve!!! Cheers Doug 😎

Cabin roof mechanism by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
There are a couple more struts to add to the movable part and hopefully the skins will stiffen everything up how ever I've not yet decided if the skins need to be stronger than the supplied ply ones As for the electrical supply, tests to be carried out on multi plug connector but this depends on how many lights I have and if I want them independent of each other or I could use the lifting arm as they are brass and could be wired neatly at each pivot plate however this would only supply a common + and - supply, we will see.

The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh! by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi there, Patience is a virtue, of which you appear to have a lot. AS for your slight "blooming /blushing my only answer is (raining or exceptionally cold or humid weather which often occurs when rapid evaporation of solvent cools the air over the coating below the dew point.) (internet is brilliant) however you've set me thinking now as as you will have seen in my blog having got the roof mechanism working I have yet to apply the skins. I appreciate any thoughts on - 1 Using existing skins? 2 Using existing skins and then f/glass and cloth both sides? 3 I have a quantity of mahogany veneer 0.5mm from memory, three sheets cross grain and glue whilst the held in the compound curve? 4 use thicker ply?

Cabin roof mechanism by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
That's a very clever design and we'll executed. Two concerns, the finished roof might be a little fragile and easily knocked, trust me, it happens 😱, particularly with the mast in place and the 'pantagraph' motion knocked out of alignment. Also, if you are doing working lighting for the mast, front and side nav lights and searchlight, how will you articulate the wiring to them neatly? Perhaps a self locating, on closure, multi pin connector? I'm sure you have already considered these points so I'll be interested to see how you engineer them. Keep up the great work 👍. Robbob.

The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Typical of Aeorokits the cabin roof skin was made of two thin pieces of ply < 1mm. Over the 50 years or so the overhang corners had started to curl up and crack 😲 Pics 1 & 2 show the 'off the shelf' condition after 25 years of neglect 🤔. First I tried to correct this by soaking in hot water and flattening under a car battery (flattens most things😉). So far so good. Then some super glue in the cracks and back under the battery. After a day or two it just curled up again. Ho hum! Pour a glass of wine and back to the thinking board. Seconds Out - Round Two! Thought, OK make new pieces from the 0.6mm ply I still have and paint it - then my eye fell on some 1mm mahogany sheet (Ouch 😭). Tried to make the whole roof skin in one piece of this but the compound curve defeated me. The skin was steamed and soaked in hot water and clamped across the roof frame. Next morning - Arrrgh! Had started to crack along the centre line 😭 More thinks!! Carefully cut down the middle and glued and clamped the separate pieces; pics 3&4. Getting the two pieces to match in the middle was a tedious ***!!! Pic 5. Then mucho sanding. followed by 2 coats of Lord Nelson sealer, sand back with 600 grit sanding sponge. Then two coats of Lord Nelson matt varnish, sanding with 1000 grit in between. then two coats of Lord Nelson gloss varnish, sanding with 2000 grit in between. Pic 6. So far so good, pic 6. 3rd coat of varnish and - Arrrgh 2! 😡 Pic 7. No idea why! Sand off and start again, pic 8 😭 Treated each side separately, pics 9 & 10 and flatted off with 2000 grit. Then applied three coats of clear protective lacquer, sanding with 3000 grit between coats. Finally cutting back with auto paint restorer / cutting polish and finally polishing with anti-hologram finishing polish. Pic 11. Now I'm happy 😊 Pic 12. Only took a week 😉 Next week in this theatre - "I love you too Flash but we've only got 15 minutes to save the world"! or 'Will I ever get this hull finished?" 😎