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>> Home > Tags > channel

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advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi TJ, looks OK for a basic starter kit👍 Ron's right I'm also still slightly concerned you might quickly get bored with just throttle and rudder 😲 9X is perhaps overkill at this stage! I use the TGY-i6 for almost everything (except my sub cos 2.4Gig don't like diving!). I bought a bundle of 6ch receivers to go with it for around 8 quid a chunk so I can fit out several models. My expensive Spektrum Dx6 is now gathering dust on the shelf 🤔 Re: Aldiss signal lamp: Have a look at this from component Shop (Action Electronics), description attached. I just bought one to go on my 1936 H class 1:72 destroyer 😉 along with a SONAR pinger! https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p49-morse-aldis-sounder-flas... Happy building, and even happier sailing, cheers Doug 😎 PS: I don't waste a channel on radar. On my destroyer it is simply switched on by a microswitch underneath 'B' gun turret. Drive is a modified servo fed by a 1.5V alkaline 'C' cell. Lasts for years 😁

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi TJ, pic is not very clear (small web pics get blown up by the site🤔) Can you post a link to the site where you found this stuff? At least I can make out that it's from Carson, which is a reputable company so I guess the kit will be fine. I just wonder if you might find a 2 channel TX too restricting; e.g. if you later want to add remote controlled lights or sound etc!? However, if the price is right ...😉 Bon chance mon ami👍 Ciao, Doug 😎

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 16 hours ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

wheelhouse amd bridge by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain. I cut all the pieces for the wheelhouse out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside. The floor of the wheelhouse was planked along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted. The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush. After drying the outside of the wheelhouse was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue. Aft of the wheelhouse are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs. Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel for the runners. The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.

Duke of Cornwall by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 51"/7000g Duke of Cornwall Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electrinize (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a static scratch built model constructed by a model engineer probably in 1970s, I was gifted the boat by the local RNLI Branch with the proviso I looked after it and occasionally displayed it on Flag Days. The boat is a model of the Lizard and Cadgwith lifeboat 'Duke of Cornwall' which saw service for 20 years and saved 95 lives. I have fitted 6 channel San,wa remote control and the Torpedo engines and batteries. She runs very well on the water and achieves a good scale speed when both motors are at full power. Batteries are 12 volt gel type and new, I have never had a problem with endurance. Control is by two Electronize speed controllers which plug in independently to receiver. She has a two tone siren, worked from retract servo switch, which is useful for clearing a way through birds. Steering (like the real thing) was rather sluggish, a single blade rudder but it improves by using the two engines. She is pretty heavy to lift into the car, I use nylon strops to lower her into water. I have done several adjustments to her topside so that she more correctly resembles the 1962 Barnett lifeboat she is modelled on, main adjustment was to put mahogany veneer onto to forward and rear bulwarks, as the originals had. The original boat topside was painted grey and it was only later that areas were painted orange, she is a non self righting lifeboat one of the last of this type and modifications were made in the mid sixties to seal off the rear doors and provide a watertight compartment, as well as fully enclosing the wheelhouse (the model's wheelhouse is open at the rear, as was the original. All hatches and doors open. The railings are chain link and seem to be a very good match to the ones fitted. My only issue at the moment is the radio wires which seem to be very vulnerable, have used electric thread but not a great solution - something to look out for. I have purchased 3 crew and am about to paint them, two will be in the wheelhouse.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I would avoid using pen cells you really need rechargeable since they can deliver more current without sagging and a sail winch when pulling in a sail can require quite a bit. The function/channel bit gets me also I remember when you needed 2 channels per surface ( leave out single channel) back when reed was the norm. Early propo systems used function because 4 function was the equivalent of an 8 channel reed setup.( actually 12 channel since it included trims). It now seems that function has been replaced with channel just cos.

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

More running in at Bournville. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
The motor is only a few months old, bought new for Howe's models. I've heard of old radio caps going dry and I means after 40 years of service, since the brother in law repairs old radios and juke boxes. But not capacitors after 16 weeks, the motors only done 3 or 4 hours of service in total. I've added an additional cap across the terminals. I also had a reply from the speed controller company they said to check the fail safe on the transmitter which incidentally is working to kill the throttle channel as its a fly sky intended for a (plane).

FS-GT3B 3 channel r/c by BigAlio Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes when I re read the listing thats what i thought. £25 seams to be the going rate thanks for confirmation

FS-GT3B 3 channel r/c by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
If you read carefully you will find it is for a Receiver only and £5--ish is the going rate. it says it is compatible with the transmitter shown. If you want a bargain then see this link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M3OXZUS/ref=oh_aui_de...

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

FS-GT3B 3 channel r/c by BigAlio Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi ive placed an order it says its dispatched I have my ebay set up so I dont pay until i receive item so ill wait and see what I get ill post and let you know.