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Hi Hughie I am assuming the set was working before you cut the aerial? You did bare the wires and twist the copper wires together? If it was, have you changed anything else? Did you remove the crystals and are they in the correct place ie Tx in Tx? I have just repaired a 27Mhz set and the TX crystal had failed for no apparent reason. Replacing with another crystal fixed the problem. If you have or can borrow another set of crystals at the right frequency and type you can see if they work. Perhaps a local shop may be able to help without you having to buy? From your description the power is ok, the servo moves so is plugged in the correct way. You have used one of the channel sockets and not the battery socket for the servo? Let me know how you get on Cheers dave
Nope! If you've only got throttle and rudder functions that's it. Or do you want to control each motor independently? If so take out the Y cable and connect the two ESCs to the two throttle channels. Comments re BEC still apply!! Gotta go now, invited out to dinner 😜😊 Bon chance Doug 😎
Hi Steve, As your ESCs have an ON/OFF switch for the BEC (orange and red twisted wires) leave one of them SWITCHED OFF! Unless you want to use a separate RX batt. In that case switch 'em BOTH OFF! To drive both ESCs from one RX port: plug the ESCs into the sockets of the Y cable and the plug end into your usual throttle output channel of the RX. Don't forget to reverse the power leads on one motor, or the FUSES! Doug 😎
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.
Have to admit that this is not something I was aware of until very recently...but in my quest to broaden my YouTube channel to all things RC I found the Offshore Model Racing Association (OMRA). I contacted them and they invited me down to their most recent racing event in Southampton. Despite the bumpy conditions there was some close racing and I think I captured the flavour of what it was all about.
OK. You can do that just for reversing, but no speed control without the ESC. Also relay contacts have an irritating habit of arcing and burning when used for high currents. More sparks! Your choice but I find the bridge solution is more elegant, more compact and probably more reliable. You'll need a second channel to trigger the relay, could get exciting if you're on full ahead at the time! Or do you intend to use the negative swing of the ESC output to switch it? Don't forget the diode across the relay coil to kill the induced voltage! Let us know what you decide and how it goes. I know which way I would go. Cheers 😎
Hi Nick The MFA/Como drills site lists the motor plus a stall current of 11.2amps at 7.2volts max. I guess you are confirming neither Tx/Rx combination is working. You have mentioned a new handset, is that a new Tx/Rx? Hopefully when it arrives you will have a working radio link. I have used single ESC's with two motors wired in parallel and it will work. Problem is one motor can run faster than the other due to variations within the manufacturing specs. If you can afford two ESC's you will avoid this. You can run from one channel using a Y connector lead as Doug has said. With two ESCs you can run each from a separate battery. If both have BEC outputs you need to disconnect the red lead on at least one ESC and both if you are using a separate Rx battery as Doug has already explained. There are mixer units available which link the motors to the rudder setting to help with steering but you do need two ESC's. If you are an ex flier like myself you can also use two sticks on the TX and control each motor independently. I do hope you manage to get your model working and on the water soon Dave
I think the point I was trying to make was Tamco as a brand are not all bad! I bought a second hand 6 channel tx and rx for £20 (with no servos). We all have good and bad luck and we learn with experience. Sadly experience can be costly. John.
Hi NickW I agree the ESC is toast. Don't plug it into anything. You should be able to test the Tamco using the RX battery plugged in the correct way. If it is correctly bound the the rudder servo should work in either rx channel. If it does then a new ESC will get you back to working condition. If you did accidentally reverse the rx battery connection this may have blown both the rx and the ESC. Lets hope it was just the ESC!! Dave
[Score: 8/10] 39"/2300g Schnellboat Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a MFA Torpedo 400 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper ESC - Comments: Hi. Not scratch built,and not quite finished yet but from the Italeri 1.35 Plastic kit.Sails really well, and has a good turning circle even using the three rudders provided with the kit.I have fitted all three shafts but only connected two at this time.Centre shaft is running free but I am able to connect a third motor if I wish. Customised to suit my likes and NOT exactly to real time paint scheme. Front and rear guns rotate on separate servo systems from a six channel Futaba system.Also has an engine noise generator coupled in with forward/reverse. Really nice addition to the fleet on the water. On a separate note the video clip is of a smoke generator just fitted to my Corvett and not connected to the Schnellboot.Just a tester.
Hi Hugh There are R122JE receivers on E-bay but if I remember correctly they came in different frequencies. 27Mhz and 40Mhz - mine were stamped on a panel at the back of the Rx. Current offerings are about £16 plus postage but that could be costly to you. A new 2.4Ghz combi (Tx + Rx) set can be had for not much more and will work with all your ESC's and servos and doesn't require any crystals. I would expect there are local suppliers to you so postage should not be a problem. Older 27Mhz equipment is becoming harder and more expensive to source and crystals are no longer easily available in all frequencies. I know there are many who wish to continue using their trusty equipment but the problem is it is entering into the collectors market and market forces are driving up the prices. As someone who started out making my own Tx/Rx kit initially with valve and all the way up to a 4 channel transistor Tx/Rx I have changed gear many times. I usually pass on my sets to new club members to help them get started but have kept samples of some so I can still test any non working kit. If you repair the aerial as suggested your set should be good for another several years and if it's working there is no need to change. Cheers Dave
Cor blimey, luv a duck and all that, Dave. That's one hell of a selection for one club! Which club is that? I can even see a plumb stemmer there. My location (I thought I'd done that) is the Fens...Cambs/Norfolk borders and no, there is no model boat club close to me that I would consider travelling to. I found a group (couldn't call it a club) who sail, but they are all Isle o Manners. Silly ugly blobs, so were their boats! I have nothing remotely in common with people who think nothing of bragging that they spent 750 quid on some drawing film sails in a triangular hardboard box which they slide into their Honda Jazzes at precisely 12-31pm every other Sunday and drive along a mile or more of rutted farm track away from their little farm reservoir, to bump down miles more single lane somewhere out the back of Wisbech in fear of their other halves who have clearly said, "Be here at 12-53 or your dinner's in the dog!"! Otherwise it's all tug fans and pocket battleshippers who love a good bobbing cork. Fussy ain't I? I could accept all that if they weren't so far away and so expensive. What you have to understand is that there is water everywhere round here which you could just turn up at and sail on, but nobody does, except me. I ain't paying to join a club with a lake the size of Windermere, 30 miles away, which would require a rescue boat to be safe, when you can sail on a static river (canalised) for free, up the road! No, I was more wondering where one can go on the 'net for info. I've had to resort to the superior 'Net skills of a Canadian friend to save what he (as a static boat modeller) judges to be useful shots from youtube videos and then send 'em over! BTW, Dave I will PM you my email address. Please do add me to your youtube channel or whatever the correct terminology is. I have tried through the "Nextdoor" system to find model boaters near her, but have had no take up whatever. John, Bury is just a wee bit too far away!. But thanks for the thought. Cheers, Martin
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: Fed the wires for the lights through the channels made and then painted the structure. Coated with a silver grey emulsion and then a stainless colour enamel. Net drum fits perfectly!