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>> Home > Tags > channel

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M. V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results. Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned. The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model. The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling! Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly. Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101) by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
I AM BUILDING A 1:48 SCALE, 35" REPLICA OF THIS US COAST GUARD ICEBREAKING TUG THIS IS THE ACTUAL CUTTER IN ACTION IN THE ENTRANCE CHANNEL TO THE HARBOR AT LUDINGTON, MICHIGAN, USA

Happy Hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
hi -the hull only had these two motors and gearboxes in .I have greased the gearboxes cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps ( waterproof type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Veron Vosper RTTL 28" by surfacesub Seaman   Posted: 30 days ago
How refreshing to read this thread. I built this kit in 1959/60 and from memory powered by a 1.5 c.c. E.D. diesel. Radio control I used a Reptone single channel unit for the rudder only. We had always had some sort of family boat on the river and not being able to be on board the RTTL was very frustrating for me. Sadly I sold the model as my training/career took hold. To this day I wonder if she has survived the test of time. She had a unique (highly illegal) ID number 2945. If any model boat enthusiast stumbles over my motley attempt at this Veron kit I would be very interested to hear? Good luck Skydive130 and enjoy the building experience!

RSS P71 Sovereignty by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Superb! I wouldn't know where to start. One of my first boats was an Aerokits Crash Tender powered by a Frog 2.49cc diesel. The radio was single channel, one press of the button for right rudder, 2 presses left rudder, press and hold for throttle.

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

RSS P71 Sovereignty by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I like the microswitch idea. If I have enough channels I usually use a Rx operated switch https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-swit...

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
the good news is, (I should have mentioned this earlier), the contributors here are generally experienced, and have done it themselves, so rest assured everything you get is proven, you just need to pick out what is best for you. Some other forums are not as lucky, as you get a lot of "do this, try this", you go out spending the dosh, and the "advisor" when challenged has not actually done it himself, its just a load of crap.😡 really annoys me that this happens, and sometimes people on model shops can be just as bad. A mate of mine took his sons "toy" boat to a local model shop last year. His son had outgrown it, my mate wanted to paint it, make it his own, and ditch the "toys r us" running gear. I didn't know he had done this, when I saw what had been done, the money charged, we marched back to the shop, I gave the "expert" the crap back, and got a refund. 2nd hand 27mg 2 channel rx with the aerial chopped to 6 inches, a 4x1.5 aa battery holder for main propulsion, and a really tired 2 channel acoms 27mg tx £75😡 I found out when he asked me why the lights don't work from the tx like my boats, he had asked for this, 2 channel set, hmm.... later that month, with a 7.2v nims and a dx6 with now 6 channels, less than £50, experts eh! I know there are good, but this shop or at least the guy working there wasn't one of them

Twin motor control problem by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
John, Before you get any more ESCs here are a two basic things to try. 1. At the water's edge (on the stand) start the motors (both). Check their rotation. Then lower the boat into the water and see what happens. Either it should continue in the forward direction or it will stop and then go into reverse. Separately 2. Plug ESC into one radio channel and plug the other into another channel. This is a test - each ESC will be totally independent. Also we don't want use the BEC. I have had problems of a similar but slightly different nature with my Fairmile D previously, except that one of the motors would just stop after 15 or 20 seconds. Now I have each ESC running off a separate channel on the radio and the two channels are mixed so there is a master and slave channel and I use the single throttle stick to operate it. It works fine.

Question- Prop rotatio direction? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Skydive I agree with the suggestions. However the Solent props are in a protected channel and as a result the twin prop effect is minimal. I do suggest you use twin Escs as my Solent was almost impossible to turn, due to the long keel, without slowing the inner prop on a turn.

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, yes get a couple of singles or one dual board as you wish, same price, fiver a chunk. They make wiring up the motors a doddle. Also think about a few of the switch boards. See link above. Single switches you can use on the 3 on/off toggle switch channels on the Tx; A, B and D. A dual switch version you can use on the two way switch C on the Tx. Make sure they can switch enough current for the load you want to use; esp. the smoker! Don't know what current yours takes, you may have to suck it and see with a multi-meter. Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget to tell 'em to send my commission! 😉😉

Twin motor control problem by tomarack Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. It usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
This is the unit I have and I did buy one switcher unit as well...Just in case! So have sound and horn in there just not wired yet, but would like to take up the lighting from the original board as well as add a little more. Thought I should put the new receiver up in the bridge as it is light and well away from water.................... You mention some posts back about using switch units I believe. The Tranny is 6 channel. What do you think? All the best . NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Looks like all on one board so if you replace the Tx/Rx you will need some way to switch the lights/horn/sound unit. The motors will have their own Mixer/ESC(s) and a rudder servo, so 5 channels.