Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. It's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔
Hi Rolfman Glad to hear we have another Taranis user. I am gradually switching all my models to the Taranis but I have a Futaba 6ex which I use with several models and it works ok so maybe not those. Used to use Planet and for most simple boats they work well but I am replacing with Taranis following the demise of Planet supplies. I do believe Turnigy and FlySky may use the same internal processors as the software seems to run on both sets, but not as you say with each other. The good news is the software is open source so free to download, and there are many working on improvements and additions just like the Taranis. For most users I suspect the 6 or 8 channels available as standard will meet all their requirements, whilst the more adventurous can reprogram. As a lifelong Trekkie fan I am always ready to boldly go! Doug are you suggesting we should rely on the CE markings? Unless you know who manufactured the article its just a sticker that the Chinese and others have been copying and attaching to their products for years. Bit like statistics really! Dave
Most of the companies you have mentioned tend to rebadge third party suppliers hardware, and put their own firmware on it. Flysky and Turnigy normally won't work together, but, if you install Turnigy with Turnigy, or Flysky with Flysky, it will work. I have successfully "updated" Turnigy receivers with Flysky firmware updates to enable me to use them with my Flysky Transmitter. My next job is to hack my Flysky GT3-B to increase to 8 channels and ppm transmission, so I can install an 8 channel receiver on my 46" fire tender (sound, directional working fire monitors, etc). Hopefully doing it sometime next week. Progress reports as(or if) I make any 😨 Best wishes, Dave W 😊
Hi Doug Micro and mini servos are great until they break then they are a bin job. That Hitek has a broken drive to the internal pot. I have looked inside and could hardly see the components let alone repair. Had two go on my RG65 yacht. Early bad design of the rudder shaft which rusts and causes the servo to overheat, mine actually melted and the motor was welded. Now replaced with a standard size servo, plenty of room and not really a weight problem as I use a LiOn 6v battery and switch mode supply. 6V burns out the micro servos, as happened with my first servo in the RG65. If it has a 6pin plug it probably is an early Bonner servo. Doubt it will work with modern kit. Might be a collectors item so you could try flebay Good to hear you can upgrade the Flysky/Turnigy sets to 10 channel. Does it support s-bus as this will allow even more channels? Dave
Hi Doug. Yes that's correct, the trainer socket on the back of the TX is used for the firmware update. I found the info for the TX mod on another site and happened to need a few bits and bobs from Hobbyking so I added them to my order, so for £18 I can unlock the 10 channels that the system will support 👍😁 As I said I've not done the mod yet but when I start the new build I'll probably do the update and then use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat and store a new model preset in the TX just for 6 channels. Robbob.
Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
I taught myself on YouTube, the printer itself arrived in a million pieces that I had to put together. I followed a 40 minute YouTube tutorial & it worked first time (8 hours later lol) A channel called Makers Muse run by a young Australian chap is very informative. To get started you download the required STL file or files for what you want to make from Thingiverse, you'll need a programme to manipulate the STL file in that also creates the gcode file that the printer uses. I use a programme called Slic3r yes Slic3r, it's quite easy to use, there are plenty of others, I'm told Acura is good also. In the programme you put in the printing parameters you want to use, layer height, speeds etc, you can rotate the object to how you want to print it & then hit export gcode. That file goes onto the SD card which you put into the printer. You hit print file on the printer menu & you sit back admiring all your hard work. I know I've simplified it a lot but it's nothing you can't pick up off YouTube & a 30 minute call to me, I'd gladly help anyone👍 Cheers Wayne
Hi nutrunner Sounds like you have connected the rx up incorrectly. Try unplugging the ESC and plug the rudder into the socket you have just removed the ESC from. Make sure you plug in the correct way (black is usually nearest the case edge), the ESC was in correctly but in the wrong channel. Now plug the ESC into the rx. Normally on a two channel rx there are three sockets 1 (rudder)2(ESC) 3 (battery connection) The battery connection only has two pins, so there is no signal pin which could explain your problem. If not the Eport lads will sort it for you Happy sailing Dave
[Score: 5/10] 29" HMS Juno Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 1Amp/h Batteries - Comments: It started off as a model from a BBC hobby magazine. Stand off scale. I decided to try to make it better so bought an Airfix kit and scaled up the dimensions to suit. it was my first radio control model with a Mcgregor 2 channel radio and a resistance speed controller attached to a servo. the photo was taken at Queens Park Glasgow in 1990 although the model was built in the 1970,s I no longer sail her as age has made her somewhat delicate. The hull is Balsa plank on frame covered with Tissue Paper Doped and painted.
Hi Mate, you have a 7channel Fasst receiver, very good quality, any Futaba Fasst transmitter will work with it. Would suggest looking on ebay as there are a lot of trannys available, would recommend a 7 channel, even if you don't need all of them. you can't expand a 4 channel TX bit you can only use 4 of 7 channels . Hope this helps Mark
Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads. I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin
Hi Nick, As basic as this sounds I got a switch that you plug into a channel on the rx to control lights or just about anything remotely. I've also got a sound module with 2 speakers from eBay that you load the sound onto a microSD card which I find amusing, this also plugs into a rx channel. Animatronics is new to me, I'm learning slowly, my 1/4 scale Donald Campbell should scare a few people. I'm also dabbling with 3D printed linear actuators at the moment, I'm up to 130mm of travel from a normal servo. Ohhh the entertainment 🤗 Cheers Wayne