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>> Home > Tags > charger

charger
lipo charge
charger
Radio in a yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 24 hours ago
Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

LiPo batteries by Grumpy1949 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
My charger has a storage setting which i always use after a sail as insisted by our local battery supplier guru. No problems at all with durability, full charging or high amp useage. Wrap 2 elastic bands around your stored lipos so you immediately know its status. The first elastic band is put on to a used battery immediately upon removal from model. Works for me now i am nearing 70 and my brain function 'aint what it used to be'

LiPo batteries by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

WL 915 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 17"/1000g WL 915 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a outrunner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through unknown (30Amps) ESC - Comments: WL 915 ready to run Brushless 2.4GHz RTR Electric RC Speed Boat. This RC boat is capable of reaching speeds up to 25MPH and anti-capsizing technology? Features: •Electric Powered •Capable Of Up To 25MPH? •2.4GHz Transmitter •11.1V 1200mAh LiPo Rechargeable Battery •Balance Charger Specifications: •Length: 17.25 Inches •Width: 6.8 Inches •Height: 4.7 Inches I will be modifying this little boat as it has a few annoying problems they are: 1. The flood chamber fills quickly and once full hampers the boat in accelerating and getting on the plane. 2. You cannot run the boat slowly as the flood chamber fills 3. The self righting is not 100 percent reliable. 4. Binding is initially difficult Mods a. Replace cabin so boat lies flat when inverted. so able to use rudder extension to steer when upside-down. b. Racing rudder side position out of prop-wash and aids torque effects. c. Fill float chamber with foam so gets on the plane quickly. d. Cut down rudder as too long (95mm) to 65mm. The cabin will be finished and painted properly after testing. On testing the rudder was reduced and performed well once it got going but still have problems getting it up on a plan it feel this could be a balance issue, needs more mass at the stern.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug....I've attached a photo of the charger, its a Sprint NX84 purchased from Cornwall Model Boats... Richard

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, if the charger was good for the original battery and both are NiMH it will be good for the new one as well. One thing bothers me slightly: what does 'Sprint' charger mean? Just a name or does it only do fast charging at high current? Which is not recommended as it shortens the battery life. 😆 Which charger is it? All the best, Doug 😎

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Skipper, the charger that I have does have Tamiya connections, but can I use the existing charger that I have or should I buy another one for the compact battery? I don't want to damage the new battery when it arrives.... Cheers

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, when l purchase the compact battery pack from the web site you advised, do you think l need to purchase a different charger? I have a sprint charger that l was using for the longer battery pack that will not fit into the St Canute. Cheers Richard

LiPo batteries by boaty Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I have found a similar situation with li po batteries. After standing for some time when I have connected them to the charger there are not as depleted as I thought. I had an interesting find last year when I was in a second hand shop in North Wales. There was a large metal ammunition box that appeared to be of WW2" vintage and they only wanted a tenner so I bought it. I keep my li po's in it with the higher capacity ones also in the box but in the fire resistant bag. The box of course has a lid that securely closes with two catches. 😁 Boaty

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Peter, we are all 'Standing on the shoulders of Giants'! Folks like Canabus, Dave_M and Jarvo, to mention but a few, showed me the way last year. Couple that with my insatiable desire to know 'How Things Work'! and here we are 😉 The Robbe should give you years of trouble free service. Have fun, Doug 😎 PS the 20A rating of the other charger is 'marketing blurb'! No one charges at 20A, unless they are into pyrotechnics and demolition😲

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug. Would you mind giving me your thoughts on this charger please. Thanks. Peter.😊 Charsoon Antimatter 2X300W Had to think twice about going to Cornwall model boats. It is a warehouse and not a shop.😡

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi MB, can only say what I have which works and I ain't set the house on fire yet 😉 Not surprisingly for someone living in Munich both mine are from German companies! Robbe Power peak Uni 7 and Graupner Unimat 14. There are later versions of both around nowadays but you can still find these on Amazon / Ebay etc. Both of them have automated programmes for various Lithium types, NiMH / NiCad (not recommended these days!) and SLAs. Robbe is now defunct and their Marine stuff taken over by Graupner and marketed as RoMarin! Pics also show the Balancer Adaptor Boards, necessary to connect the balancer cable of the battery. This ensures that each cell is equally charged 😊 I also included in the pics the little battery Capacity Testers I use. They cost around a tenner and are very useful for checking the capacity before a run or charging, as well as the voltage and capacity of each cell, which gives an indication of the battery condition. I found some duff cells with the tester in a few batteries I'd only just bought 😡 When looking for / buying a charger look also for a LiPo Safe bag to charge them in. E.g. LiPo Guard. Charger may cost 50 quid upwards depending on how many charging outlets you want and how many Bells & Whistles. But I get on well with these two 😉 I like the Robbe version cos I can charge two LiPos at the same time. Also in the pics are a few of the charging cables I made up with gold 4mm bullet plugs for the charger end and Tamiya and BEC (for my Plastic magic stuff!) at the batt end. Such adaptor cables are also available 'ready made' but I just like fiddlin' 😊 Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 Nearly forgot! Can't say for sure what current your motor will draw cos I don't know all the other details, but a 40" boat will need some shove! So I wouldn't go below the 5000mAH if you want a half decent run time. A 40" boat can carry a bit of weight! And batt power is more useful than pure ballast 😉 Recommend a little Wattmeter to check the max current draw - see last pic. Basic theory! A fully charged 5000mAh (or 5AH) batt can theoretically deliver 5A for one hour, or 10A for half an hour and so on! Say your set up draws 20A with the 'pedal to the metal' then a 5000mAH batt will 'theoretically' last 15 minutes. Theoretically cos other factors are in play; initial charge state, temperature, internal resistance of the cells, cable losses etc. The latter is why I only use gold connectors! The higher the batt capacity the higher the price and weight. So suggest you start with the 5000 and see how (long) it goes. Then check the weights of higher capacity batts (and the bank account / management approval😉) Bon chance mon ami!

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Doug. Do you have a preference on a charger and is the monitor I saw you mentioned in an earlier post important. Finally, for now😁, would a 5000mAh battery 3s be about right for the 1450kv brushless motor I bought. Thanks. Peter.