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>> Home > Tags > charger

charger
lipo charge
charger
MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 hours ago
Same as mine from HobbyKing, this type comes in various colours under various names but they are all made by Husang in China😉 You can also connect it between charger and battery to measure the charge (capacity in mAh) you've poked into the battery. This you can then compare with what is taken out again when running or testing motors. 👍

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 hours ago
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by al2612 Seaman   Posted: 15 hours ago
Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by al2612 Seaman   Posted: 2 days ago
First attempt at a full scratch build, a 32" Downeast / Lobster boat style hull in ply, to be built to my own design as a picnic / fun boat. Have acquired an MFA Torpedo 500 and a 40mm 4 blade Raboesch prop, 175 series I think. Hoping to run direct drive. Any advice on battery size voltage and Mah to get a turn of speed if required and a reasonable run time. Lipo preferably as I have a 2/3 cell charger from a previous project and limited space only in front third of hull. TX for any advice received

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

Circassia model boat by mbillany Apprentice   Posted: 17 days ago
Circassia- Glasgow Circassia was built in Glasgow in 1937 for Anchor lines Liverpool to Bombay regular route, carrying 285 passengers and 4000 tons of cargo. She was taken by the Admiralty at the beginning of World War 2 and used as a troop ship to North Africa. She never saw action but troops dubbed her the “ship from hell” as accommodation was limited carrying far more than she was designed for. She returned to her 13000 mile round trip India run after the war, making her last voyage in January 1966, after which she was sold and broken up in Spain. This model was a 2 year project by a local retired yacht builder who is a real craftsman, built from original drawings to scale with great detail. Original drawings included with the sale. Includes 3 new rechargeable 6 volt batteries, charger, twin screw and bow thrusters, all servos and all works including navigation lights too. The transmitter is a Hitec Laser 4 with 3 spare channels if required (never used). The model dimensions are LOA 5ft 4inches, beam 9 inches and stands tall from keel to top mast at 21 inches. She weighs just over 60 lbs and sits on 2 teak plinths for display and has a rather crude but effective launching trolley and lifting straps. The plans say it is 1/8th scale. Contact details are Mike Billany, ** email and personal phone nos. removed Please use pm to share this info** I live in Hedon, approximately 7 miles east of Hull. Strongly suggest visit to view and buyer will need to collect. Asking price for all as above is £600 or very nearest sensible offer please.

FRESH BATTERY RUNNING TIME by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Les, Sorry🤔 but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question. It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output! Inputs required are- Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack, Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc, auxiliary motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience. Re: depletion: Battery should not be left connected when not in use! You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it. If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this. Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'. A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RX😉 Cheers Doug 😎

JOINING BATTERY & RECEIVER CABLE by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here http://www.componentshop.co.uk/futaba-charging-switch-harnes... I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? If so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any auxiliary motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape 😁😉 or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??

Billings Nordkap Trawler - Sale by Doug79 Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, I am a new boy but I just wanted to let members know that I have a Billings Nordkap Trawler for sale. It is in excellent condition and full working order, ready to sail. It comes with Transmitter and Receiver, Built in On/Off switch, a rechargeable 6-Volt battery which can be charged in-situ with the charger supplied. It is 32ins in length, 8ins wide and 17ins high. It would need to be collected from my home in Kenilworth, Warwickshire. It is for sale today at £250.00, and all ready for the water !j. 12th September - It sold today. Thank you for your interest

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, Thanks 😊 Have to admit that I also found the markings confusing! 🤔 But 120 or 240 A is irrelevant to me anyway as I'm unlikely to demand more than 10 or 20A from them. The rating was 8A by the way, which x30 gives the 240! Agree, it don't make sense. Am now rechecking the markings on all my other LiPos 😉 Racing batteries; agreed but not my thing, I'm a scale man. Overnight charging; I'm a 'night owl' 😉 but agree re Lixx. I also charge in a 'LiPo safe bag or box! My chargers have the same facilities, essential for Lixx care. I can also set a maximum time limit for any type of battery. Hope we've managed to clear up some confusion. Cheers Doug 😎 PS You didn't jump!!! 😉

General sailing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug I am impressed. There are also LiFe batteries around and are somewhat safer for Tx/Rx use, but require the same care as all Lixx batteries. I am confused by the CONRAD battery rated at 4amp and 30C. I would say this suggests a 120A max burst current. I can't see 60C marked on the battery. It may well be capable of being charged at 2C ie 8amps but like you I would never consider charging at this rate. The higher power and performance batteries are capable of taking higher charges and will withstand the heavy discharges demanded by those who race fast models. However such batteries are for the serious racers and do not come cheap. I do have one concern and that is your mention of overnight charging. I agree this may be OK for NiCad, NiMh and SLA's but LiXX batteries should never be left on charge unattended and certainly not overnight. My chargers have settings for Lixx batteries that adjust the charge current for the voltage and capacity and automatically give a varied charge current until the battery capacity is achieved, balancing the cells at the same time. Dave

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors want) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) overnight is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets! Cheers Doug 😎

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Baggie, What type are they? NiCad, NiMh or LiPo? If they are LiPos and they are getting very hot disconnect them IMMEDIATELY and take them to a recycling centre! If they are Nixx and getting hot (warm is allowed) reduce the charge current to the minimum! Take account of the 'Fast charge rate (Amps) specified by the manufacturer. Personally I would not use 3.5 or 5 Amps for anything except lead acid. Note how long the battery lasts in use. If it seems to be getting shorter than it used to be then probably at least one cell has a high internal resistance and it's days are numbered. It will only get worse. Use an appropriate charger for each type, and that 'knows' when to stop charging! Most modern units can be switched to appropriate programmes. Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Just had a quick Google as I was not sure of the size. There was the very same item on our For Sale section 5 years ago: "Deans Marine 1/24th Scale British Power Boat Co. Seaplane Tender Includes JP Power 400 Motor, Deans (MTronics) ESC, 5Cell NiMh Battery." That being the case any small brushless 28XX size with a Kv of around 1000 and 30 amp esc and 30 -35 mm 3 blade brass prop should suffice. I have similar in my 34" Fireboat and use an 11.1v Lipo. If you are new to LiPo you do need a dedicated LiPo charger and be aware that unlike other battery technology they pack a very heavy punch. You must follow the charging regime to the letter and make sure you do not overdischarge when running the model. There are some rather frightening U-tube videos of what happens if you ignore the rules! That said I have been using LiPos for several years now without any major problem, but I am always aware of the risks and make sure I don't take any unnecessary risks Good luck Dave