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>> Home > Tags > charger

lipo charge
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2 drone by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2. Anyone fly one of these. Here are the specs of the one I am looking at. But seems due to all the bits it has to carry the total flying time is 16 mins .. Is this long enough for a general flight ? Any here are the specs DJI Phantom 2 v2.0 Fully kitted out with Live video feed to the controller, has the excellent Zenmuse H3-3D stabilised gimbal fitted and has the brilliant Gopro hero 3+ black edition included for excellent results. It has an immersion RC 600mw video transmitter fitted for long range transmission and this is fitted with a Fat shark omni directional higher gain antenna. The controller has a Flysight black pearl monitor fitted with the latest folding sunshade. As it has dual 5.8ghz recievers and 32 channels it has twin antenna mounts on top of monitor and there is a fat shark omni directional antenna to match the one on the video transmitter on the drone and also a 5 turn helical directional antenna for solid video at extended distances. The monitors inbuilt diversity reciever will auto switch between antennas to get the best signal. This comes with all original boxes and 2 sets of propellers one of which have never been out of the box. This drone has the heads up display module already fitted to give you live flight data and heading to find back to home if orientation is lost. As with all Phantoms this drone has auto return to home and land so if connection is lost it will fly back to land at its take off point. This drone includes all chargers etc so is all you need to get flying and capturing great aerial footage in a single kit. I have flown this out to 997m during testing and it is faultless in its reliability. Three flight batteries are included to keep you flying longer. This is a very capable machine that has done some epic flights. I am happy to demonstrate it flying etc as it has never been crashed or abused. So what would you think was a fair price to pay for this drone ????

Which Cable To Use by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Joe I guess this is a follow on from your last request re charging batteries in the boat. Your tandem is usually referred to as parallel connected where the positive terminals on each battery are connected together as are the negative terminals. This will give you 12 volts but double the Amphr capacity in your case to 24Amphr. Is this to be used in the fishing boat with the working winch? As Doug advised the total expected current draw will determine the cable required and you should protect this with a fuse in the positive lead from the batteries. If you can run separate cables from the battery to the ESC and the winch control then they will only need to carry the current for that device. Again each cable should have an appropriate fuse. As regards the charging lead this will be less than 5 amps and your SLA will have suitable leads. I would not recommend charging SLA's in parallel as in my experience one always charges first and the charger goes into trickle mode leaving one battery undercharged. I thinke you will need to have the two positive battery connections accessible so you can charge each separately. Halfords have a range of cables which should cover your requirements and also have fuses. Cheers Dave

BATTERY CHARGING by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Joe I would not have the ESC and charger attached at the same time. You could use a heavy duty double pole two way switch or just unplug the ESC and plug in the charger, best option in my opinion. Mains chargers for SLA batteries will limit the voltage and current but they are susceptible to transient surges from the mains which could produce a similar surge to the ESC if connected. You should also be aware that Lead Acid batteries (includuing SLAs) can in certain circumstances give off highly explosive gas and in an enclosed space any spark could result in a big bang that would not be good for the model or anyone in close proximity. If you really have to charge in the boat make sure there is plenty of air space and take care when attaching and removing the leads. This applies to the charger and the ESC leads... Take care Dave

Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper 1:48 scale by Caldercraft by saltysnogbad Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!

Bluebird K7 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Boatshed, the charger will probably handle the job, but why risk it or tie it up with the cutter when you have 12V supply available. What output current can it supply? Sometimes the max. output power is quoted in Watts. Divide this by the 12V and you have the max current it can deliver. Small mod. suggestion - I will put an ON(OFF switch in mine, with test terminals on either side so I can check the current drawn with a pocket multimeter. Bon chance mes amis, 😎

Bluebird K7 by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I see that's a battery charger. I was thinking about a 12v power supply box I have. Can this be done from any lipo battery charger. I don't want to kill my one by doing something that it wouldn't like. It's an Elysium LX60B.

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hot wire foam cutter: I started off by watching just about every video on YouTube on the subject. I then bought a few meters of 0.25mm NiChrome wire. At first I thought I'd just need a vertical bench top cutter. An unwanted shelf was liberated from a kitchen unit to use as the base, a couple of 2x1's were screwed underneath to give clearance for the wire connection. A piece of MDF was used for the upper arm. To give some adjustment underneath a block of wood with a screw in one end for the wire to wrap around was screwed to the base in just one position so the block could pivot. I drilled a clearance hole in the end of the upper arm for a long bolt & put a small slot in the end of the bolt to wrap the wire around, a washer and spring were used to give the wire some tension. When the wire heats up it expands so you need something to maintain the tension. Wrap the NiChrome wire on the screw underneath, put it through a hole cunningly placed in line in the base & up to the slot in the bolt in the upper arm, compressing the spring at the same time. Now that's all sorted get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to the screw underneath & one to the bolt on top. This is the bit where I found conflicting information on YouTube, people used all sorts of different things to power their cutters, batteries, pc power supplies & resistors, model railway power supplies, laptop chargers etc etc, everyone recommend different voltages & amperages. Luckily my Lipo charger can be sued as a power supply so I started messing with volt/amp settings, I didn't want the wire to glow red as that's too hot, I ended up using 10 volts & 2 amps, it works a treat. Unfortunately this cutter does have its limitations, throat depth etc. I decided I needed a hand held cutter, going off what I'd learned from the bench cutter this was a doddle. 2 pieces of 7mm steel bar 300mm long, 2mm hole in each end. 1 piece of 30mm square pine for the handle, 8mm hole through each end. Smack bars through holes in handle, get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to each hole at handle end, I just twisted them on & taped everything over. Now here's the trick with the other end, when you attach the NiChrome wire make sure you squeeze the bars together a little to give the tension, attach the other ends of the wires to the power supply & away you go. Like any tool I guess you get better with practice, lol Cheers Wayne

And now it is ESC time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Saves on motors, batteries and chargers as well, so now you can afford a decent sail winch! Nicht wahr 😉

Li-Poly batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi from freezing Munich 🤔 Balancing is not just "good practise" it is a safety essential!! Otherwise the "good" cells can be overcharged and overheat, with the consequences we have seen with Boeing and Samsung 😲 That is why you need a charger specifically designed for LiPos, and why one should pay more for a decent LiPo which has better matched cells from the start 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Li-Poly batteries by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
to add to that, its also regarded as good practise to balance charge the lipo, using the balance lead, and and appropriate lipo charger, I believe all lipo chargers have this facility. This means the cells are all equal when fully charged, and you can view this on the charger display. It also means that none of the cells will be overcharged, and risk fire etc. The down side is that as the charger enters the final stage of balancing and achieving fully charged, it takes a while, as the current reduces, so patience is a virtue, and never leave unattended whilst charging, that applies to all chemistry, I have seem a nihm explode due to over charging, its not just this lipo myth that is risky!😉

Battery problems by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Patto, Sounds like you aught to be running on a decent lipo. The motor is probably taking more amps out of the battery than it can maintain. Lipos are much much lighter than lead acid and can give a higher discharge rate. The dicharge rate is the 'C' rating of the lipo, the higher the number the greater the discharge capacity. If the 'C' rating is too low the battery will start swelling up and its life expectancy greatly reduced. Go for the highest you can afford with the greatest capacity and always use an alarm with the battery, it plugs into the little white plug and can be set so when the battery gets to a set voltage an alarm sounds indicating to stop using it until it is recharged. A 3 cell will give you the required 12volts. The 'C' rating now goes up to 130 in the more expensive lipos but an 80 will probably suffice. The higher the amperage of the lipo the longer running you will get. A 2500 may only give you 8-10 minutes whilst a 4500 (cost just under £50) will give you up to 20 mins. You will have to check your speed controller to make sure it is compatable with lipos, a few are not. Remember you will need a balanced Lipo charger, I only spend about £20 or less but they only charge lipos, quite often the more expensive ones will charge a variety of battery types. I'm not an expert on electronics my knowledge comes through personel experience. With the lipo you will get better performance as the lead acid weighs the boat down. Good luck.

Battery problems by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Patto I agree with what has already been posted, but it would help if we knew the size and type of prop you are running with your brushless motor. Fast large racing props do not work well with brushless unless your battery can provide the very heavy sustained current required. As Haverlock suggests a Wattmeter will allow you to select the best prop for your set up. LiPo power will give you all the speed you need but at an initial high cost as they require special chargers and correct management. You could use NiMh batteries which are lighter than SLA and are more suited to high discharge currents. You can get these in 12v packs and 5000mAhr would be a good starting point. If your motor is cutting out it is more likely the ESC is the culprit due to too high current draw. Another possibility is that the propshaft is too tight, it should turn freely with no tight spots and have thrust washers at both ends. Dave

Battery problems by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
A quick check on the specs of your motor /esc combo states its good up to 5s LiPo. So step 1 get a watt meter ( cheaper than burned out motors ) Step 2 check with your bank manager ( or wife) for available funds Step 3 buy the biggest 4s or 5s LiPo you can fit in the available space. you will also need a LiPo charger do not attempt to skimp on that step LiPo batteries need special handling and can be spectacular if you do it wrong. You have not mentioned the prop your using if you use the watt meter you can play around with different props so the current used by your setup heads towards the point you pick twixt performance / running time. If you do go LiPo you will also need a battery monitor part of the careful handing includes not discharging them below around 3.3 Volts per cell. 3s =3cells 4s=4cells etc. So if you go 4s then you should not discharge below 13.2V. some text on the care and feeding of LiPo batteries. The reason for your problem is a simple case of battery chemistry a lead acid accumulator cannot deliver a high current for extended periods gasses on the plates prevent the electrolyte coming in contact so the battery loses power. After a while the gasses are re dissolved and the battery can then go on providing power. Nothing wrong with the battery its just a case of wrong tool for the job.

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi I avoided mentioning LiPo as you are handing the completed model to possibly a novice. NiMh would be my choice and depending on the budget I would get the highest amp and voltage you can manage. There may be a min voltage requirement depending on the ESC you choose. She will also need a charger for the NiMh and possibly the Tx/Rx if no BEC on the ESC. Sounds like you will achieve your goal and I am sure the lady concerned will be well pleased. Dave

Battery Life by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Keith I see you have a 2 cell Lipo battery of 5100Ma. The charger shows Li 2S charging at 1amp with the overall voltage of 7.43volts on the charge so far. Your charger need to be set to the correct battery type if your battery is to be fully charged safely. You have a balance lead connected so the charger will take care of the process if correctly set up for the battery. There are several flavours of Li batteries so your charger need to be set for LiPo which appears to be the 2nd setting. I can't quite read the writing but suspect it is Lion, LiPo and LiFe. Your charger supports charging up the 5amp and I suggest you use this for your battery which is 5.1amp. As the charge proceeds your charger will reduce the current as full capacity is reached. My charger then flashes a message to say charge end and stops any current flow. Your may have a similar message or indication. When fully charged your battery will have a voltage of about 8.4v. You should not discharge below 6.3v which is probably where your ESC shut down power to your model. LiPos should not be stored fully charged. The safe storage voltage is 3.7v per cell or 7.4v in your case. There may be a setting on your charger that allows you to charge to this level. If you are still unsure please ask. A copy of the charger manual would help. Hope this helps.😁