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>> Home > Tags > charger

charger
lipo charge
charger
Sea Trials and mods. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) It's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made In China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. It's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". In saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)

Tarpon hardware help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Gordon, "the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I reckon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery." In that case an SLA (especially the types produced to power alarm and emergency lighting systems) would be your best bet. They can be left on trickle charge indefinitely. Two 6V in series might be better than one 12V to help with trimming out the boat. I use a pair of 6V 3Ah (about 600gm each) in my 135cm destroyer and 107cm submarine. They run for hours if I don't keep the pedal to the metal all the time. 😉 Back home I stick 'em on the trickle charger and leave 'em until the next outing. They've lasted my several years so far. Much longer than my NiMhs. An NiMh looses approx 1% of it's charge per day. So, assuming it starts fully charged, in 3 months or less it would be in Deep Discharge and have joined the Dodos😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve

RC....mixers? And other unknowns.. by BW3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

Margaret's health by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi John, Yes, two or three times actually. I wanted to know the current the charger is rated for. Should be on a label or embossed on the case somewhere. Given that the calculation is easy. V=I*R --> R=V/I Given an initial charging voltage of approx 7.4 +10% = 8.14V and a charge current of 0.5A; V=15-8.14 --> 6.86 R=6.86/0.5 --> 13.72Ω so you need a 12 or 15Ω resistor. P=I*V = 0.5*6.86 --> 3.43W. So you need at least a 5W resistor. A ceramic resistor if there is enough space. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Got the bits, now what?... by ilewis Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/ style='background-color:yellow;'>chargers/charging-harnesses-adapters.html

Hobby King receiver clones by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Colin, I first entered the world of proportional RC with a set called a Mini-Hex, in 1971. I bought it from the model shop in the arcade in Exeter. It cost a bloody fortune! 2 Function, essentially a copy of the Kraft set, but made in Belvedere, Kent. I still have it and as far and I know it still works, except the old DEAC battery pack is defunct, of course. It even came with it's own metal cased charger. Green frequency only, can't be changed! Cheers, Martin

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c... 24V chargers / balancers won't be cheap though🤔 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low voltage' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!😉) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!

SLA Batteries! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I have checked the batteries. They are OK! Their polarities are +_+, -_-. I have also checked the charger. It's polarity is OK as well! I suspect the ESC! It's a PNP ESC!

1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Charger needs to be any suitable WALL WART IIRCC👍

1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi John, Yep, I heard that too. Don't see any real advantage though. Button cells are cheap enough (keep 'em in the fridge to hold their capacity longer) and it's a lot of faffing about and ANOTHER charger!😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

Tug For Sale by Dav58 Seaman   Posted: 5 months ago
Flying Osprey Tug Glasgow. Ready to sail. In good running order, Water tight. Working lights. Size is 36" long, 12" beam, 24" top of mast. Can run on Rotten Row Southport. May deliver by arrangment. £180 inc transmitter and charger. SOLD SOLD SOLD GONE GONE GONE Thanks Peter

1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries by EricMB Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi all, has anyone any experience of using these new 1.5v batteries? There are some that appear ‘normal’ in terms of charging, and a new breed of batteries with a micro usb slot in the top, needing a special usb charger. Any info appreciated before I order some! Thanks, Eric

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. If you don't want to go LiPo cos of chargers etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Mtroniks Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V 👍👍 I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro... You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Mtroniks-marin... There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎