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>> Home > Tags > charger

charger
lipo charge
charger
46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
Battery ordered, and a charger, from Component Shop. Thanks for the guidance. Brian.

Voltage step down by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
What your asking for is possible but not easy. A 12V ESC will handle an overvoltage but I cannot say how much and depending upon the current draw of your motor a voltage regulator can be expensive. The simple solution is to get a 3s LIPO However you do need a special charger and have to make sure you do not discharge a LIPO to too lower voltage. https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html if your interested in going LIPO have a read about the care and feeding of them.

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les Yes I agree there is no way with the charger supplied you can do anything other than charge to full capacity. I do believe we have made suggestions on another thread on the site advising possible solutions. The cheapest would be to just buy a simple battery checker and make sure after you use the battery the voltage is around the 3.7-3.8v mark. Run a bit more to reduce and short charge to increase. If you are intending to become serious about modelling and using LiPos then, like most of us you will want to buy a charger that does the job for you automatically. There is a cost but if you protect your batteries they will last and save you money in the long term. I've not had much hair for some years so probably that's why!

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Les-Forbes Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thank Dave M. It get's confusing when in the manual it states... Charge to half capacity after use. But of course, how can you charge it to half capacity, when the charger charges EACH cell separately. It's hair pulling out stage. LOL.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I agree if your serious about preserving your LIPO get a balance charger they are not expensive and will allow you to charge/discharge to a storage voltage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-iMAX-B6-AC-Lipo-NiMH-Polymer-... style='background-color:yellow;'>charger-UK-Plug/172401169819?epid=503854605&hash=item2823e9159b:g:ERIAAOSwh9hZ7xsO

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power supplies and others needing a DC power source. Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=bala... style='background-color:yellow;'>charger I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
is it possible that the charger is working via the balance lead and charging each cell independently?

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les Can you upload the instruction manual? The storage charge is normally set by your charger and the balance lead on the battery is used by the charger to set each cell to the storage voltage. If there is only one LED then I suspect this is after all cells have reached the set charge value. Hopefully the charger manual will help

lipo storage charge by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks for the input. Sorry to have started a bit off a heated discussion. My charger was behaving somewhat differently to what I expected, having already watched many You Tube videos, But at the end of the day all is well now, mainly due the fact that my original power supply was a bit too wimpy and has been replaced by one with the required output. My batteries have now been storage charged and ready for action and a full charge at a future date. All I need now is a boat to put them in. Chris

lipo storage charge by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
As I explained I was talking about charging at the end of my first post. For a novice I do believe video explanations are far easier to follow which is why I made my initial suggestion. I did not look at your first suggestion as it required me to download a pdf file from a source I do not know. The other two sites both suggest it is safe to discharge down to 2.5v per cell - may have been when written but modern cells should be kept above 3v and I try to keep mine nearer 3.5 v. I also see they recommend charging at 2C from storage! If you buy a 3 cell LiPo mine are delivered with an 11.1v storage charge which equates to 3.7v per cell. I did once watch a very long and detailed video made by a developer and manufacturer of LiPo batteries and learn't that at 3.7v the cell was in its most stable state (chemically wise) consistent with long life and storage. If the battery has any charge I do believe the amount of damage will be the same, but perhaps more spectacular if fully charged. Most modern chargers from reputable suppliers will provide a safe charging and storage charge. Providing your charger is setting the right voltages no harm should occur. As they say a video says a thousand words and the one I suggested covered the Imax B6 very comprehensibly.

lipo storage charge by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, I'm sorry too cos I didn't say you recommended anything! But you did state that 'something is wrong', which it clearly wasn't operating the unit in Storage Charge mode. Also 3.7V is only the nominal cell voltage. The recommended Storage voltage is 3.85V, as stated in the charger manual, and which is what the charger did. The objective is to limit the amount of stored energy which can cause havoc if anything unforeseen happens in storage, as well as to prolong the life of the battery. See also attached LiPo storage tips. http://uterc.org/files/LipoStorageTips.pdf http://www.bigrcmodels.com/RC-Helicopter-LiPo-Battery-Storag... https://www.propwashed.com/lipo-storage-voltage/ Just three samples of several which all state the storage voltage (SV) as 3.8 or 3.85V. The safety leaflets which came with my LiPos also said the same. Cheers Doug 😎

lipo storage charge by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sorry Doug I did not recommend anything of the sort and clearly stated storage charge was 7.4v for two cells. I did then give further details about charging but suggested a U-tube video that explained in detail how to use the charger.

lipo storage charge by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris, DON'T PANIC! There's nothing wrong with your charger / controller 😊 3.7V is the 'nominal' voltage per LiPo cell. The 'Storage' voltage used by your charger is quoted in the manual as 3.85V per cell. See pic. Therefore, give or take 50mV or so your charger is operating quite correctly in Storage Charge mode. Before starting the device indicates the nominal voltage of the battery you have specified, i.e. 2S which is why it shows 7.4V before starting the charge. At the end of the cycle the battery voltage should be around 7.6 - 7.7V which it apparently was. 👍 The controller will discharge a battery with a higher starting voltage than 7.6V and charge one with a lower starting voltage. Dave was talking of Full Charge voltages, which is not recommended for storing LiPos!! Cheers Doug 😎