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>> Home > Tags > charger

lipo charge
battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Hi Roy, Like I already said in similar threads; pay a bit more for major producers, like Panasonic as you mentioned, and you are more likely to get what you paid for. No names are always a gamble. May be a super start-up, may be a 'let's cash in band wagon jumper! Whoever the 'supplier' is a relatively small number of manufactures are behind them. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice! Personally, for the bigger, more expensive anyway, drive batteries I go for a supplier with reputation and known sources and reliable recourse without questions if you are not satisfied. For the little, cheaper, accus. for my Plastic Magic and auxiliary functions I am more inclined to experiment, log the results (manually!) and adjust future purchases accordingly. Regarding your super duper data logger; how has really it helped you? I used them often in my professional life, mostly as chief of the Rank Telecomm personal radio test department in the 70s and 80s, but now I don't need to sit in front of the PC analysing such data for hours. Time I could better spend building, sailing or solving other more interesting problems. Without appropriate analysis algorithms data loggers are useless. I have a thermocouple add-on for my multimeter which tells me if a particular cell is overheating compared to the rest. (The finger tip test usually agrees with the thermocouple!) This gives me a more useful indication than lots of abstruse graphs which you then have to interpret correctly. The money this cost you might have been better invested in a better charger as Dave M has already advised. I repeat what I said in the thread Dave mentioned: if I note that an accu. has a weak cell I degrade it to non-essential functions, nothing needed to bring the boat home! Each to his own; if you want to spend your time pondering over dubious statistics carry on and good luck! Personally I think Life's too short to waste on such things! If it woiks, don't fix it. If it don't woik fix or replace it, but don't waste time on bait digging when you could be fishing! Forgive me if I'm insulting your intelligence, for all I know you may also have 40 years professional experience in electronics. Let go! Cheers Doug 😎

battery charging by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
Gentlemen, many thanks for all the feedback. To respond to Dave's questions first: the charger I have been using is an MRC Super Brain 989, and the recorder is an Eagletree Micropower E-logger V2; both are off-the-shelf items and not calibrated. I know there can be some discrepancy between the two, but surely not enough to explain the numbers? I cannot check the temperature of the battery. That will be affected by another variable - charge and discharge current, will it not? As Dave and Doug have pointed out, I made a very, very rough, simple, conservative calculation of mAh looking at the chart. I did not try to be mathematically precise. It was a number for me to explain my question of whether the apparent charge and discharge efficiencies made sense and could they be explained. I have learnt a lot from this exchange and, since I have already acquired 3 battery chargers over the years, I am reluctant to invest in another one only to measure battery impedance. Question is now, does future potential use of such a charger make better financial sense than simply throwing away the questionable batteries and replacing them. Decisions, decisions. One final question, what charge and discharge efficiencies would you expect from a new battery past its "running-in" duration? I am aware that mAh capacities are not based on any recognised standard, but I have been led to believe that the stated capacities of Panasonic and Venom batteries are more reliable than most. Thanks again, Roy

battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Roy I can understand your conundrum. My work at one time involved gathering and presenting statistics. The difficult part was knowing what answer was expected. There are statistics and dammed lies and at the end of the day they are at best an indication, but should be taken with a pinch of salt. To try and shed some light: What charger were you using and was it calibrated and if so who by? Same goes for the recorder. Did you measure the temperature when charging and discharging. Looking at your chart I not sure I quite agree with your consumption calculation as the 2.55 amps was at best for no more than 40 mins. Batteries will waste energy in the form of heat and this explains why more energy is required to charge to the retained capacity. We did discuss the battery internal resistance earlier and this can have a real effect on the capacity and the batteries ability to deliver. Assuming your measuring equipment is correct then I believe the differences are likely to be due to temperature variations caused by the internal resistance. If when you charge your pack one cell is noticeably warmer than the rest of the pack it has a higher internal resistance. At one time you used to be able to buy race packs which had been formed from individual cells that had been matched. Cost a lot more but if you were racing with the pack they gave you the edge. Cheers Dave

battery charging by Trillium Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Here's a conundrum that I'd like your thoughts on. I recorded some data on one of my boats now running on a couple of the battery packs that were cycled as discussed earlier. They are 6V 5000mAh NiMH packs which, after their final charge, showed they received 5500mAh according to my charger. For the subsequent run I fitted a recorder which showed the current consumption, as on the attached chart; typically 2.55A, with a maximum of 2.9A. A rough consumption calculation based on the chart, of 2.55A for 70 minutes, is a little less than 3000mAh. When I recharged them after the run, the charger showed they'd taken 3850mAh. Why the difference between the 3000mAh consumption, and the replacement charge of 3850mAh? The charge and discharge efficiencies are obviously less than 100%, but this data suggests that the two combined are only 78%. So, for example, if the two efficiences are equal (89%), if the charger states a charged value of 5000mAh, the battery has only accepted 4450mAh (=5000*89/100). When delivering the power, it can only put out 3960mAh.(=4450*89/100). Or in other words, only 78% of a battery's stated capacity is usable. Or is there a different explanation? Roy

battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Doug I use a charger that measures the internal resistance of my batteries. Damaged cells exhibit high internal resistance and cannot be recovered to their full capacity. I agree you can flash the cells and they will recover the voltage but will not take or deliver the current. As a result they will quickly discharge under load and prevent the whole pack from delivering its full capacity. I sail model boats on a large lake and recovering a model due to battery failure is difficult, so I don't risk using sub standard batteries. I have not used wet Lead acid batteries for many years but I agree the Epsom salts trick did work on such batteries. I agree flashing is highly dangerous with any battery as there is a high risk of explosion. Great care should be taken and, unless you are competent, should not be attempted. Take care Dave

battery charging by onetenor Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Good result Just what I was about to suggest as it happened to me.Re testing through insulation Bang Good sell pairs of adaptors to fit over the tips of standard test probes. Sharp as needles but strong enough to pierce most insulation. Nicads NiMhs and others develop needles or dentricles inside which short out the anode to cathode internally These can be dissolved or blasted away by flashing them with a higher voltage .A/C or D/C. I use my welder. Hold one contact to one battery terminal and flash the other with the other welder terminal. Just a glancing blow DO NOT hold it in place.There is no real need to split the pack but can if you would rather treat individual cells.They can be done without unsoldering them just use some wire held in the earth clamp and stickholder or feed gun to reach the ends of each cell.You get the picture .I have done this with battery powered tools for years .I have a 24 volt drill that is still on original battery after more than 10yrs. Another way is connect the supplied charger and plug in and switch on waggle the plug in wall socket in such a way as to make and break contact about 16 or more times. Not as good as the flashing method but works. Wet cells can be improved by putting 2 or three teaspoons of Epson Salts in each cell. Many tops can be chiseled/prized off to access the interior and glued back on with plumbers solvent cement or similar............Gorilla glue would probably do it too. Here 's hoping I've saved a few quid for some of you. BTW I wouldn't know if this would work for Lipos.I wouldn't want to be the first to try 😆🤐Here is the page

battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi both It would appear that one cell is damaged/faulty. I have had trouble with bad meter connections in the past and it can cause all kinds of trouble & strife. The pack will be no better than the weakest cell. If you have a good electronic charger it will give you the internal resistance of the whole battery in milliohms. I checked all my NiMh batteries we use for the public sails and found several that had high internal resistance. Replacing the faulty (>1.2v) cell restored the pack to full capacity Dave

battery charging by Trillium Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
Dave, I've tested one battery pack as you suggest. With a load of 0.95A the voltage drops immediately from 6.75V to 6.2V, and in just under 4 minutes drops to 6V. I presume this meets your diagnosis that (at least) one cell has failed. You are correct in presuming that my charger is indicating the 1200mAh capacity. I have been charging at 0.8A, which is the lowest current setting on that charger. I now have both packs charging on 100mA, which is the closest I can get to the recommendations from Doug and sidley70, but this charger does not indicate mAh. Roy

battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Roy A NiMh battery when fully charged is 1.4v dropping to 1.2v under load. I use similar batteries for our display boats and they give about 6.8 volts when fully charged. I am assuming your charger is indicating the 1200mAh capacity? I suggest you connect the battery to a meter and place a heavy 1 to 2 amp load on the battery and see what the voltage drops to. If it's less than 6v very quickly I would suspect one of the cells has failed. Usually caused by over discharging the pack and one cell becomes damaged by being reversed charged. If this is a recent purchase I would contact the supplier and ask for help as cells can fail sometimes. If this is not the case then it is possible to split the pack and check each battery whilst under the load. The faulty one's will have a low voltage. Any less than 1v need replacing as they won't ever take or give the full capacity. I have used pins with the meter to check the cells before splitting the pack but it's difficult. I solder a new battery of the same capacity in place and heatshrink the pack. I would check the battery with the replacement cell before sealing as the other cells may be damaged. I am assuming you are using a NiMh charger set to the correct charge current? AA cells are not as resilient as their larger cousins and do not take well to fast charging with loss of capacity being one of the symptoms. Hope this helps and you can get a replacement or repair your packs. Dave

The electrics, drive & radio by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁

DJI Phantom 2 v2.2 drone by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2. Anyone fly one of these. Here are the specs of the one I am looking at. But seems due to all the bits it has to carry the total flying time is 16 mins .. Is this long enough for a general flight ? Any here are the specs DJI Phantom 2 v2.0 Fully kitted out with Live video feed to the controller, has the excellent Zenmuse H3-3D stabilised gimbal fitted and has the brilliant Gopro hero 3+ black edition included for excellent results. It has an immersion RC 600mw video transmitter fitted for long range transmission and this is fitted with a Fat shark omni directional higher gain antenna. The controller has a Flysight black pearl monitor fitted with the latest folding sunshade. As it has dual 5.8ghz recievers and 32 channels it has twin antenna mounts on top of monitor and there is a fat shark omni directional antenna to match the one on the video transmitter on the drone and also a 5 turn helical directional antenna for solid video at extended distances. The monitors inbuilt diversity reciever will auto switch between antennas to get the best signal. This comes with all original boxes and 2 sets of propellers one of which have never been out of the box. This drone has the heads up display module already fitted to give you live flight data and heading to find back to home if orientation is lost. As with all Phantoms this drone has auto return to home and land so if connection is lost it will fly back to land at its take off point. This drone includes all chargers etc so is all you need to get flying and capturing great aerial footage in a single kit. I have flown this out to 997m during testing and it is faultless in its reliability. Three flight batteries are included to keep you flying longer. This is a very capable machine that has done some epic flights. I am happy to demonstrate it flying etc as it has never been crashed or abused. So what would you think was a fair price to pay for this drone ????

Which Cable To Use by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Joe I guess this is a follow on from your last request re charging batteries in the boat. Your tandem is usually referred to as parallel connected where the positive terminals on each battery are connected together as are the negative terminals. This will give you 12 volts but double the Amphr capacity in your case to 24Amphr. Is this to be used in the fishing boat with the working winch? As Doug advised the total expected current draw will determine the cable required and you should protect this with a fuse in the positive lead from the batteries. If you can run separate cables from the battery to the ESC and the winch control then they will only need to carry the current for that device. Again each cable should have an appropriate fuse. As regards the charging lead this will be less than 5 amps and your SLA will have suitable leads. I would not recommend charging SLA's in parallel as in my experience one always charges first and the charger goes into trickle mode leaving one battery undercharged. I thinke you will need to have the two positive battery connections accessible so you can charge each separately. Halfords have a range of cables which should cover your requirements and also have fuses. Cheers Dave

BATTERY CHARGING by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Joe I would not have the ESC and charger attached at the same time. You could use a heavy duty double pole two way switch or just unplug the ESC and plug in the charger, best option in my opinion. Mains chargers for SLA batteries will limit the voltage and current but they are susceptible to transient surges from the mains which could produce a similar surge to the ESC if connected. You should also be aware that Lead Acid batteries (includuing SLAs) can in certain circumstances give off highly explosive gas and in an enclosed space any spark could result in a big bang that would not be good for the model or anyone in close proximity. If you really have to charge in the boat make sure there is plenty of air space and take care when attaching and removing the leads. This applies to the charger and the ESC leads... Take care Dave

Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper 1:48 scale by Caldercraft by saltysnogbad Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!

Bluebird K7 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Boatshed, the charger will probably handle the job, but why risk it or tie it up with the cutter when you have 12V supply available. What output current can it supply? Sometimes the max. output power is quoted in Watts. Divide this by the 12V and you have the max current it can deliver. Small mod. suggestion - I will put an ON(OFF switch in mine, with test terminals on either side so I can check the current drawn with a pocket multimeter. Bon chance mes amis, 😎