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>> Home > Tags > chine

sewing machine
All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin

new sails by jacko Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
the other half has been a busy bee with her sewing machine so today i set about fully rigging her

Mini lathe by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Aha! You mean the 'Lego Lathe'!! Lotsa blocks you can shove together to make a lathe or milling machine or .... Agree about the motor, not big enough or man enough for the job. I bought one at an exhibition some years ago, it's buried in the workshop somewhere.😲 Nowadays I mostly use my little Proxxon FD150/E. Just used it to make some parts for Colin's Taycol Supermarine renovation. Simple uncomplicated machine, good for small parts. Cheers, Doug 😎

Allen Screw Removal by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Mornin' John, I assume this is on the cylinder head you mentioned? If so I would hesitate to use any of the extractor methods in case it distorts the ally head. I would be inclined to to use a flat ended milling bit to carefully mill the heads off, until you can gently prise the head off. When the head is off you can probably grip the threads with pliers and get 'em out, soak with penetrating oil / WD40 overnight first perhaps!? Using an HSS drill bit might also be OK, but with more risk of drilling into the head and/or spreading the shank of the bolt over the lip of the bore hole. Making it very difficult to lift the head off. A milling bit in a decent drill press or mini milling machine (like my Proxxon) would be my choice. Cheers, Doug 😎

Mini lathe by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Forget it, it's just a little freehand turning lathe for hobby work in soft wood and other soft materials. Meant for craft jewellery and beading work. Look for something that has a traversing tool post with crosswise adjustment. I'm lucky enough to have my late father's Unimat with a screw cutting adapter as well as a milling attachment, for larger work I have a Chester universal combination lathe/milling machine. Look in local auctions, as they are often in our local auctions in Herefordshire. Happy hunting, cheers Colin.

Mini lathe by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi y'all.I was thinking of getting one of these-- style='background-color:yellow;'>chine-Polish-Woodworking-DIY-Tools-80-100W-p-1121255.html?rmmds=category&cur_warehouse=CN-- Is Raitool a good make. Seem to be. Has anyone got one Or similar? Can it be used for steel and screw cutting (with the right accessories of course)? All ideas welcome.

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by kevinsharpe Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Lyle. Note your comments on planing strikes or the hard chine hull. I have a 52" Veron FPB. Powered by two Graupner 900 motors. When she gets up on the plane loads of wash coming over the rear deck. Am I right in thinking that if I fit a strake to each side of the hull at the bottom of the vertical skin and flush with the bottom of it it will assist in planing and keep wash away from the rear deck. If I fit them I intend to flare them towards the bow. Regards Kevin

Search light by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
A working search light seems to be expected on this craft so here goes. Based on Robs build I purchased the lens and the LED from Maplin’s which seemed to fit the bill. The only piece that will be used is the main body that is supplied as a white metal fitting, the rest will be replaced by a brass construction, as the rest of the parts are not substantial enough to support a working unit. First, I need some 3/16 half round brass bar, the easiest way is to machine my own cutting just less than half the diameter away. The half-round bar was annealed before bending round a suitable mandrel to a half circle. I then soldered an 8BA nut on each leg to act as the swivel bearing. Next, I machined the body’s internal bore to suit the lens body and skimmed the outer rim and face, finally bore out a small recess that locates the lens in place. The two pivot holes need to be drilled and tapped 8BA, and then a drilled hole in the rear wall for the wires to exit. As the light is to be both working and rotating the base has is to be made with a centre spindle that connects to a micro servo under the roof. The connecting devise was a bit of a headache trying to make it fit in a relatively small space; I used the supplied servo arm with four legs (shortened) and then machined a mating part with pins that located in the arm that is attached to the body above deck. The LED was modified to fit in the white metal body as it has a heat sink which was too big; as others have found cutting it down didn’t affect the heat dissipation when fixed in the white metal body, this was fixed using a small amount of Milliput. Having already machined the outer flange on the body I turned up a brass-flanged ring to push fit on the body this has to have the TRI form guard added. I made this from a central pinion with three holes drilled to accept the bent brass nails; these were soft soldered in position. The TRI form was then located on top of the brass flange and again soft soldered in position At this point all the components will have to be dismantled for final finishing before being painting.

Aldi excellent service by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I thought a minidrill had gone west on me, but then found the motor was OK, so , with items from a discarded fax machine I made a small mill/drill attachment for the vertical slide of my modelmakers' lathe. It had made an awful lot of wheels since! I use it to mill out spokes and drill holes on things like BRM and Dunlop wheels and it did all the series of British Touring Cars models I made for the teams back in the Cavalier/Mondeo days, when you could tell what they were and there were no stinking grunty oil burners. Martin

Landing Ship Tanks (WW2) by camyaj Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Went to Tobruk from Toulon on one and returned during mid 60's run by merchant navy and a lot of chinese depending which engineer was on we got to swim in the bow section. Not if the scots engineer was on as he had the hump due he got nowhere with his ''see you jimmy '' as we were all either Scots Greys or Black Watch. No tanks just soft skins and armoured cars plus our 2 choppers. Also used in Aden but that was a short trip up the coast that was everything and Carriers big flag waving exercise

electrical connectors by teejay Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi all back at bench for a couple hours my back is slowly improving. the build is nearly complete, but I do have a bit of a problem with the motors, two of the motors have grouper type connectors the other has connectors form Halfords, The one from Halfords is motor 3 this is the central motor , motors 1&2 have grouper connectors , motor runs really well no problems, but 1&2 RUN INTERMITTILY but only when tweak the connector, Now I don't know if there is some other piece of kit I yet to find out about or maybe the grouper type connectors are just finicky , any body any suggestions or comments before I replace the connections with the Halfords connectors and here is question for Doug you said it would be wise to fit a switch and a fuse on the battery for the RX I have a four cell battery , what size of fuse would recommend. and lastly here is the picture of my little milling machine

MTB by ikseno99 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 25 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 36"/1200g MTB Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through tornado 20 amp ESC - Comments: A Deans Marine Kit. Flat Pack wood / ply. Made up to a nice model. Runs well, although it could do with a little more "bite" on the water As with all hard chine light weight boats it is prowl to windage. Good on still waters but rubbish with a breeze in competitions.

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Chines and first skin in place.

Dressed overall for launch party back in June 2018 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Very pretty 👍 "Splice the mainbrace chaps" 😋 Is that a converted Singer treadle sewing machine table I see before me? Cheers, Doug 😎