Finished the chine rails this morning and have started to add the 1/32 ply sheeting. Lovely working with such thin ply, it conforms easily! May have got s little further but had to go and get a new car tyre, money I’d rather spend on model stuff lol
Have now fitted the remaining outside hull formers and the top deck chine formers. Last job was to place electrics in hull to get an idea of layout, plenty of room to move things around for balance, ballast and CofG. This is going to be a quick and very easy build up to the point of adding scratch built detail and painting which takes time. Tomorrow remaining chine formers and start hull sheeting.
Looking for crew for your Tiger were you?? 😉 BTW: if you're going to put a sound module in the Tiger tank and want genuine sound bites: start up, (running with squeaking tracks), and stop, idle, shut down, gun fire, heavy machine gun fire: I have a whole directory of such sounds in wav or mp3 format. Can send if you want. Cheers Doug 😎
Forgot to mention that the Record scroll saw has a 5 year guarantee which is very good. Also went yesterday and got the other bits and pieces I need and a bigger Permagrit for sanding the keel and chines to shape. As said was very good and some fantastic builds.
Hi Ed you have an even older version than I do, the 27Meg job, I have the 40Meg version and the 'rope' is about 1/8" thick and round! Seems OK. Re tyres: that's why I tongue in cheek suggested a Dremel powered machine to do the job 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, It's the 'thin' that cuts!😡 You're supposed to use the 'rope' supplied with the boat dampen and twist the end to get it through the holes in the tyres. Then loop de loop 😉 BTW: the tyres seem to me to have an amazing amount of tread left. Most tugs I've seen they are almost bald! Think I'll have to design a Dremel powered Tread Wear Machine 😉
Hi Chris, I too have looked at reviews, and videos of scroll saws. Trouble is nothing suits everyone. Some love, and others not so keen on all,of the choices. So I reckon it’s upto me to dip my toe in somewhere. I can collect from machine mart as there is one up the road from me. I am hoping to get my three power tools for around £300. Fingers crossed! Yep the boat I’m going for is the Dave Melbourne Huntress in that very Mag. Hope I bump into you Friday as I will be on my own all day. Regards Glyn.
Hi Glyn - I'm going on Friday as well to get the last of the materials I need for my Swordsman build. I've recently got around (at last!) to making space in a spare bedroom and have set up a worktop. I was going to buy a Proxxon scroll saw but it was the more expensive DS 460 one at over £300, but decided in the end that for the amount of use it's going to get and relatively thin timber/plywood to be cut that a cheaper one would do. After some research and reviews on YouTube etc. I decided on the Record 16V for £125 which I ordered from Machine Mart. Got the call today to say it's in so will pick up tomorrow. Is the Huntress the one featured in Model Boats? Chris
I've breezed through this so apologies if I missed something. There is no way the boat will magically go into reverse when transporting from the bench to the water. If it works on the bench, it will work in the water, out of interest, how do you know its going the right way on the bench? you might have the props on the wrong way around if directional, so its actually going in reverse on the bench. You can run multiple motors with one spectrum receiver, I have done it several times, with boats and planes, so its not that. Your later posts suggest more is amiss here, it could be a signal issue, as you say it sometimes works? Have you done a range test? If you have not, This needs to be the very next job you do. Not knowing specificallky what tx you have, eg the dx6i has a built in range test, and needs to be done from all angles, and should work at least 20 metres from the boat. This needs to be a must on all models. I do this every time I sail or fly, every time, I don't want to lose a model due to signal loss, which depending on the failsafe being set, can result in full throttle and loss of control, that's another topic I suppose! Mtrokiks are pretty much bullet proof, forget those Chinese blue things, the issue isn't the escs, its the set up. Get the mixer out, use a "y" lead between the receiver leads, disconnect both red wires, and use a separate receiver 6v feed into the receiver, plug in the esc's, watch the lights to see if they set ok (assuming you have throttle range set them separate first), then range check, nw throttle on the bench, one at a time, with a tissue behind the prop to ensure they are going the correct way, belive me when I say its an easy mistake to make thinking a twin set up has both props with the correct direction when one isn't!😊 I see you are at Bury, thats a big well established club, has anybody there taken a look for you, seeing it in action is so much easier than over a keyboard! If you fancy a trip to the Wirral Ill gladly sort it for you Paul
Found the details. Got it off E-Bay under "12 Hobby Scroll Saw Blades 3 inch for Dremel Moto-Shop Craftsman" sold by Zimbyo. Still selling at abt $14. Postage $9 to UK. My machine has the same flexi drive attachment. Nice small light machine that cuts small jobs well. Hope this helps, I was down to one blade!
We as model makers try to do the best we can with what we've got. But sometimes feeling your way round a hand build is far more rewarding. I have a number of machines available in my workshop, but as most of my models are over 50 years old it is usually restoration work that I need to do, so hand worked parts are what I need to make. My machines are usually used for making brass and other metal items. I usually paint by hand, but occasionally use a spray gun or airbrush. But find hand finishing gives the most satisfaction. Cheers Colin.
Hi Dave & Les, attached the binding instructions from FS-i6 manual and my HT-6 manual. Procedure and connections are identical, but in my manual the instructions are in clear proper English without all the Chinese gobbledygook! Only boob they made was to write 'binding button on the receiver' which should of course be 'on the transmitter' Oops🤔 Stick with the TX you have Les! Don't see any advantage in changing. In fact you'd be worse off because the IA6S has fewer model memories and does not have the two proportional pots between the switches, which the i6 does have. You may not need 'em for your yacht but who knows what else you might build? So why swap for a less capable TX? Cheers Doug 😎
Whoa! Propellers are a serious 3D proposition! Not least as you can't have a threaded prop/shaft. Well, you could but it would be rat shit. Shall have to think about that one. I'm speaking from the design perspective, of course. The Machine does what it's told to do.