I agree Haverlock, One definitely, potentially, possible final thought😁 Martin; Did you pull the bind plug out BEFORE you switched off the RX? If the green light at the RH end of the LEDs on the TX was lit it MIGHT mean the RX was bound OK. Can happen so quick you may not have noticed! Esp. if the better half popped her head round the door to offer another cuppa at the vital moment😉 JFF stick a servo in the RX and try it. You may get a pleasant surprise. If you don't - nothing lost. If you do - have fun with it. Good luck. Doug 😎 PS Re PTB; when I started I thought it would just be a Cosmetic job; clean up flat back and respray in Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! After I got started I found some curiosities in the construction and that the prop tubes and rudder stocks were misaligned. Never mind the ESC that burst into flames when I tried an 'as bought' test. So from then on it was clear that I had a full rebuild / reno. on my hands. "Hey ho hey ho it's off to work we go"!😉 All old paint now off, chine rails repaired / replaced and first coats of resin and tissue strengthening applied. Might get to the priming tomorrow or Sunday.
Hi Bryan, If you want to do the SOE version she was most likely painted all matt black! The colour of skulduggery 😉 What ever you do, despite your good intentions to retain the 'old patina', judging by the photos you are in for a complete strip back and redo. Just as I have discovered with the PTB I bought. Thought it would just be a 'cosmetic job', flatten back and respray with Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! Pics show what she currently looks like after cleaning off layers of enamel, and discovering that the prop shafts and rudders were misaligned and the chine strakes glued to the paint. 😡 Never mind an engine room fire when I tried to test the 'as bought' motor installation. 😭 Since those photos I have fitted new a new chine strake and started reinforcing the thin hull with glass fibre tissue. Next issue; set prop tubes properly and make an alu bracket to mount both the motors. Then set the rudder stocks correctly. Last thing I want is to dampen your enthusiasm, but that hull looks like it needs oodles of TLC. 🤔 Be aware of what's ahead of you and plan accordingly👍 Deck looks pretty neat, if unusual for a WW2 in service boat! As far as I can tell from the photos it's not just the cabin roof which is warped 😲 cabin and window frames will also need some attention by the looks of it. Before you run that motor I would strip it, clean all parts and check brushes and commutator for wear. See my Sea Scout blog 'Taycol Target motor' for a 'How to'. Should run well with a 3S LiPo, 11.1V. These boats weren't the fastest, 28 - 30 knots I believe. Which is why ST360 was reduced to more mundane duties after try outs by SOE. Don't forget some spark suppression!! Good luck, whatever you decide to do have fun doing it, Cheers Doug 😎
Original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble. I have remade the standard, Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing. Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth. Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research – Epoxy is more versatile Epoxy has fewer fumes Epoxy is stronger Epoxy shrinks less Conclusion Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures. After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem. Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.
After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth. She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper.. The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.
As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.
Hi Pete, Afraid you've found the chink in my armour😲 I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild😲 Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc. Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the bearings, refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' 😉 Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' 😉 I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical😉 Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days. PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. If it's good enough for NASA ..... ? Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/ I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting😊 There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft. The jury is still out on that! A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube bearings, a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor bearings (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug 😎
Thanks, Doug I’ll defer to an expert & ask you. How often would you recommend lubing the prop shaft(s) in a typical R/C boat? As far as the type of oil, about 50 years ago when I built a veritable fleet of Lindberg’s motorized boat & ship kits I think the instructions mentioned “3-in-1” or “sewing machine” oil. I’m not experienced enough with larger-scale R/C boats to be sure, but is a general purpose light oil OK or should it be something that’s higher quality, such as Labelle’s products? I’ve used Labelle’s products on my N scale locomotives & they make a tremendous difference. I’m probably overthinking it but better safe than sorry. Thanks.
Hi Martin, there's loads of the little beasts here on eBay UK, and cheaper than mine was here in Germany 😭 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675... More on the charger later, I just melted an ESC in my PTB 😡 Odd, port engine worked, stbd 'Machinery Control Room' burst into flames. And no, I didn't wire it up! I bought it 'as is' to renovate and convert to PT109, what else!? Now about to rip out all the wiring and do it My Way (thanks to Frank😉) Ciao, Doug PS HobbyKing do have some, but more expensive which is unusual for them😲 and not in stock in UKor EU warehouse😭 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/cellmaster-7-digital-battery-hea... SORRY🤔 forget this last one, they put a servo tester where on mine the NiMH tester is!
Dave, I'm sorry, but that is the wrong shape at the upper level and I can see at a glance that there are asymmetries to the sections. I have a plan of Gleaner in front of me and there are major discrepancies in the shape. Of course, that won't necessarily stop it sailing well enough although may make it want to go one way easier than the other. If I could draw on this thing I'd put some rings round the areas of concern so you can see what I mean, but I lost Illustrator and Photoshop ages ago in a machine repair and never got it back. Thanks for the extra pics. Martin
Hi Martin this is Dave the owner of Mastman Models Arron is only a helper. Even though I am a toolmaker never Learn`t Cad was a night mare to learn that for the 3d Machines along with the CNC machine. The Wherry Hull is already Trimmed to Deck Level just needs the stringers put round the Hull and plonk a deck on. I would Gladly make a clinker Hull of a wherry if there where more hours in the day. Any Volunteers 😁
Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. In fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. It actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. In my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. It’s all about having fun, right? If the model looks right, it is right. Enough said.
Doug, I'm only looking at the RAF boats. As you know I don't do military (offensive military), so I wouldn't be looking at the HMS type of thing and even if I was, I'm not a fan of tiddler versions of capital ships. Too corkish on the water for my liking. So 1/24th is a minimum scale for working models for me. Of course 35th or even 72nd is fine for the big stuff, if that's what he does, but I was only looking for hard chinery. Cheers, Martin
Two vessel in it class (1) HMS Scimitar (2) HMS Sabre Launched: December 1992 Displacement: 24,000 kg Builder: Portsmouth Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted) Complement: 7 (1 officer, 6 ratings) Gibraltar Squadron's two Scimitar-class boats are the smallest commissioned vessels in the Royal Navy. This build was to produce a fun semi scale racing boat, I have always liked the Archer class boats cabin design. So after finding a suitable hull, an old 'Models by Design' GRP moulding I was away with the rest of the build. Striped out all old fittings and remnants removed excess glue. Added strakes to the hull to add lift for planning and control. Produced a semi scale deck and cabin from light ply. Thanks for your interest Roy
All I get is a single page with dozens of headings on it, each another single page and if I click home I get Not found. Not impressive. I get no sign in/log on, etc. I think some of the items are 3Dprinted, but they are very cheap, so I reckon he has his own machines. My son does and says he can produce stuff cheaper by far than Shapeways.,etc. The guy behind Mastman seems to be unusually young, so 3D print would seem to be all he knows. But he needs to improve that wherry out of all recognition before he deserves to sell even one. Wherries were occasionally painted green where that one in the pictures above is blue. A read of Black Sailed Traders is all you need to know about wherries and it has good drawings of Gleaner, a "proper" clinker wherry. It has sections, so any model can be done from it. I am considering making one in 1/16th scale, using one layer of 1/16th" sheet ply for the twist, with a second to thicken the plank to a scale 2" thickness. It would be immensely strong too. I'm almost looking forward to it now. Cheers, Martin