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>> Home > Tags > chine

chine
chines
sewing machine
chine
Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 hours ago
Hi Allen, I heartily agree Chinese specs should be taken with a generous pinch of salt 😉 But even a quoted 'peak 320A' ESC should be able to handle 100-150A which is probably 10 to 12 times what you will need for the little Mabuchi. Your Wattmeter is almost identical to mine👍 Connect battery to the 'Source' wires and 'Load' to the ESC and away you go. Do the test with the prop / motor under load, i.e. in the domestic test tank! Don't forget the Souwester!! 😉 I'll be surprised if the full ahead test is more than 10A. Have fun, Doug 😎 Primroses and daffs are only out in the Garden centres and supermarkets here, be another 4 weeks or so before much happens outside. 🤔Although my Winter Jasmine is still bravely blooming bright yellow 😊

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Thanks Doug. I am not sure I would rely on my Chinese friends' measurement of amps but I have used a few of the ESCs and they haven't blown up yet. How would I go about testing the amperage? I have my little unused Watt Meter. Do I, simply, connect it between the battery and the ESC and take the reading while running the motor? Sorry to hear about the snow, we are just moving into Spring. Primroses and Daffodils are out and days are lengthening. At last.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 hours ago
Elke HF 408 now refitted. Running on a Mabuchi motor geared 2:1, 2mm shaft and 30mm 3 blade propeller. Still fiddling with the ballast but almost ready to sail. Yet to find a suitable fishing net to suit 1:36 scale. Control is via a 40mhz Hitec Ranger 3, Acoms receiver and Chinese 320A fan cooled ESC. As they would say in Cardiff she looks tidy. Many thanks to Tica/BRCarsten for photos of the plans.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Steve, I was afraid of that with the 160 quid set, but I can't say for sure as I only have the 1/350 version so I don't know yours in detail. Ask Model Dockyard for an idea of delivery time and if they can order it. Will take you a while to get to that stage anyway 😉 You can check out the Eduard sets here- https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/?stoken=429DC2EE&force_s... Site is safe; I checked it out at McAffee Labs / Web Advisor😉 I have also often ordered stuff from Czech shops, deck gun kit and crew for my U25 for instance, never had problems.👍 Attached are the instructions for the RN figures. They are relatively big, compared to the 1/600 and 1/350 that I use! So I reckon if you carefully rub the insides against a rubber cutting pad with something like the end of a small paintbrush handle you should be able to give them some 3D form. Have fun, and don't forget to hoover the floor BEFORE you start!!!! 🤔 At least one of my 1/600 quad Vickers machine gun mounts + parts have vanished into the workshop nirvana after a few hours fiddling 😡 Cheers Doug 😎

Solent RC Model Boat Club at South West Model Show by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Gerry, Easy answer, light machine oil. 3in1 or similar, dont use WD40, also grease can be heavy and cause drag on the shafts, oil all the way, especially if you sail in salt water. Mark

Chine stringers by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Its all material I had lying around in my workshop, I never throw anything away so you can imagine the amount of "stuff" I have in my basement. The Yellow angle brackets are made of old neighbourhood watch signs they are made of 1/4" plasticard

Chine stringers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Great work, LOVE the jigs 👍👍 When I built my destroyer (many many moons ago🤔) I just used loads of panel pins hammered into a chunk of pine board. You way is much more elegant. 😉

Skeg by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Skeg Having seen the trouble others have found with the suggested method of production I decided to go straight for the robust version. I did a number of measurements to determine the size and shape of the arm and went for 2mm brass sheet. The tube was machined from 12mm dia brass with tapered ends to 8.5mm and an 8mm bore to suit the tube. Next I machined a 2mm slot the length of the tube to locate the brass arm in. Keeping the pieces spotlessly clean (not forgetting to clean the solder rod as well) the items were fluxed and wired together to keep then in a true vertical position whilst they are silvered soldered. A keen eye on temperature and a light touch and clean flow with the solder is recommended to keep final dressing to a minimum.

Rudder, water pickup and skeg by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
At this point I decided to fit the rudder tube, water pick up and skeg. I was able to mount the boat in the machine vice by gripping the keel; this ensured that the holes are drilled absolutely true and square, 2 x 8mm holes are needed to take both the rudder tube and water scoop. I purchased the rudder assembly from a well-known supplier but I didn’t like any of the proprietary water scoop tubes on offer so decided to make my own. Whilst the boat is in the vice I also decided to machine the slot for the skeg to fit in. This required drilling a series of 2mm holes and then opening them up into a slot using a long series slot drill again giving an accurate slot which the skeg can locate into. Water scoop Having dealt with the woodwork, I turned my attention to metalwork. To bend the ¼” brass tube successfully it has to be annealed, (cherry red and quenched in water), then inserting a tight fitting spring inside the tube to stop any kinking I gently pressed it round a former to the correct shape. Springs removed I filed the end to the correct angle which gives an oval opening, but the end didn’t look finished, so I machined a thin spacer and then squashed it to suit the oval end and silver soldered it to the end of the tube, this gives a much better visual appearance.

Chine stringers by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Chine stringers Again first job is to trim all the bulkhead corners so the stringers sit flat against each bulkhead. We can then start to trial fit each side to see what sort of curvature we need. This time I needed a tighter curve (2.5 litre paint tin) so again using a scrap piece chip board I made another jig. The stringers are fitted in the same sequence as the gunwhale stringers that is the first pair are trial pinned, then epoxied and fully pinned. When fully set the second pair can be fitted but this time using clamps only, no pins, to allow for trimming at a later stage. Then allow some time for it to set and check that all this tension in both sets of stringers hasn't caused any twisting or misalignment.

3D sanding discs. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Colin, that's exactly what you will get from Kaleas. The new company took over the production facilities of the old Böhler company. Happy 'schleifing', in German a sander is a 'Schleifgerät' 😉 You piqued my interest, will shortly be ordering the Mini-schleifgerät from Kaleas. They have a good range of other Minitools as well👍 thanks for the pointer! Cheers Doug 😎 PS In desperation have also sometimes tried cutting down 'standard' material to fit mini machines, with very mixed results 🤔 More trouble than it is often worth.

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I make my own prop shafts. If you do use steel bar you will need to service the shaft frequently as it will rust inside the proptube. The real problem is the rust may damage the bearing when you remove it to clean. If I can I use 316 marine grade stainless as it is more resistant to rust in salt environments. 303 grade will work but in my experience shows signs of rust over time, especially if your water is saline. I have used phosphor bronze but you do need to check the specs as suggested above. Some can be exceptionally hard and may cause wear to the shaft. Acetyl is very good but it comes in two variants and I have found Delrin to be more resilient and just as easy to machine. You can read details of the two types at https://www.directplastics.co.uk/about_plastics/why-choose-a... We actually used a type of white Nylon on our six club model tugs which have been running since 2007 at shows where we give the public a chance to have a go. Some of the motors have required replacing but the bearings are as good today as when first installed.

Bench sander by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
I just got one from Lidl at Middlewich. Had several in stock. Neat small machine that takes up little room so good for bench work. Good selection of sanding disks. They are stick on type so will replace with a better fixing type. It works ok and for small modelling work will be ideal. I may make a new plate as the existing one sits too far from the disk but for the money its a good buy.

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Dave, yes you're right. My version is marketed by Conrad here in Germany under the brand name REELY and they call it the 'HT-6'. It came with comprehensive manuals in German and good English on a mini CD-RM. When I checked on the Conrad site (they have an excellent Downloads page 😊) I found an update from 2015. I had no problems completely programming the TX unit from this manual. The only error in it was in para. 16 "press the binding button on the receiver ..." when of course it is on the TX! But at least the photo legend was correct😉 If anyone wants a copy of the PDF file PM me and I'll mail it to them. This reminds me of the discussion we had on this unit and clones / branding a few months ago! When I looked on the Turnigy site I found only the half Chinese half English gobbledygook manual 🤔 which needs a lot of interpretation. Penalty I paid for much better documentation was that Conrad price was nearly twice the Turnigy/Hobbyking price 😡 Good luck Chris, - if I were you I'd do a 'Factory Reset' and start from scratch step by step. Cheers Doug 😎 PS w.r.t. 'using what for what' My Turnigy/Reely will probably be used for most surface ships. Will probably use my Spektrum DX6 for the Catalina, and I still have the old Graupner MC-10 40MHz for the two subs where 2.4 gig don't woik 🤔. MC-10 only has two model memories so that fits! Now what can I do with the old Sanwa 35Meg job??? 30 years old and still going strong 😉