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>> Home > Tags > chines

sewing machine
Flytec HQ2011-1 by Mids-Phil Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 4/10] 18" Flytec HQ2011-1 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 15mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type) Geared Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 1Amp/h Batteries - Comments: I was feeling bored and saw this cheap Chinese toy boat advertised on t'internet. As I say it was cheap but it did have something of a passing resemblance to an Aquarama.... so I ordered one and when it arrived it really didn't look too bad. The down side was the radio gear was 27MHz and comprised just two forward and reverse switches to give forward, back and turn functions, but with no variable speed control. But then I wasn't expecting much anyway. So opening it up the innards were a doddle to remove and were replaced with a 2.4GHz receiver, esc, servo and rudder assembly. Thought about trying to fit water cooling but there really was no signifficant heat generated so it didn't seem worth it Photos seen elsewhere show the boat to plough pretty inelegantly through the water so spray rails and a couple of strakes were fitted to the hull to hopefully improve things in that regard. Anyway it's all back together now with everything working just fine, but I haven't had a chance to put it in the water yet (well it's been in the bath to make sure it floats but that's all) Looking forward to taking it out when the opportunity arises. In the meantime it's looking good on the shelf in the summerhouse and I am looking for the next project. I have to say that I have no illusions about my own abilities and I am totally in awe of the builds seen here. Nobody told me this would be addictive!

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
I'm thinking about interchanging boat plans as CNC files - so I'm thinking about the sort of machines people are going to have at home. There are a lot of 'cheap Chinese' machines on EBay for £200 up to about £500 - but these will be used for engraving, and will have cutting tables of about 8" square. Boat modellers really need a long axis. The Shapeoko is an 'open source' hardware design - much like the Rep-Rap, and the great thing about it is that you can specify the axis sizes - so you can have a machine which is a foot by six feet if you wish. I have just bought a UK kit for one called the eShapeoko - 1m x 500mm - cost about £500. But there is so much to consider - calibrating the machine, choosing a spindle drive, picking a software set....

CNC boat kits...? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
We used a package called aplicam, it suited all the machines once, you told it the machine zero settings it worked it all out for you. And all we had to do was put dimensions on to the pdf files, or trace using a graphics tablet. It was the best system I used in all my engineering life from school to retirement. I wish I had a copy of it now, it was originally DOS operated in the 70's, and when I retired it was up to Windows 10. Cheers Colin.

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Ah - I've never used any commercial packages - just Open Source. I presume that your company matched their software to the machines they had. i'm finding that different home machines seem to have slightly different command sets - for homing, for instance....

CNC boat kits...? by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Using downloaded pdfs, I use a reverse engineering package to get my cnc program (in G code). It worked with all the machinery in our factory, laser, oxy,/acetylene profiler, pulsa and proteus punching machines and also cnc machining centres. Most commercial cnc programs come with reverse engineering. Hope this helps you. Cheers Colin.

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC machines work off G Code. The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC machines will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...

Being Sociable. by GaryLCoupland Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Hello to Rick and Peejay, Rick this bit is for you, Good to hear you have a steam engine fitted, and are contemplating a bench run to see how long it will run on a boiler full of water. It will bench run longer than on the water as the engine has no loading, I would recommend you fit a gas cut off valve to be on the safe side. I once years ago ran out of water and had to watch the boiler turn its wooden lagging to charcoal. No major damage was done but it did smell a bit for some time. Peejay may I suggest that you Google the likes of Microcosm and other Chinese manufacturers of model steam engines, there is an awful lot out there you will be surprised, try for a twin double acting side valve as they are very efficient, and will run on only 20 - 30 PSI, plus a 1/2" bore twin cylinder will easily power a one metre length hull. Regards to you both, Gary.

CNC boat kits...? by Delboy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Have a look at the Banggood website. They are selling A3 sized laser cutters for less than £200. It is sold as an engraver with a 2500 mW laser but this can be upgraded. It should cut ply up to 3mm albeit with multiple passes It comes as a kit with "Chinese" English instructions so you will need your modelling skills to assemble it. They are fairly flimsy as a stand-alone, but, if fixed to a stout MDF board, it should be sturdy enough

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my plans out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use? Model boat plans are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their machines are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller motors and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult....

All hooked up, nowt happens... by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Welcome to the magic world of cheap Chinese clone R/C equipment!

internet sales by keithtindley Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I have been reading about how the high street shops are suffering in regards to sales.I wish to plead guilty as i purchase most of my model boat kits and parts online ! The shop keepers have high rates and running costs etc when compared to some online retailers .I purchased online a 4 channel transmitter,receiver and 30amp esc from china for around £40 as this would cost double from a uk retailer its no wonder there are very few model shops left but as an Oap i look after the pennies.All the chinese parts are excellent and work well. I would prefer to buy local and enjoy a walk around a well stocked shop but difference in local retail prices and imported items is now too much.Model shops of my youth are sorely missed.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
This 'Cheap Chinese' design, according to the documentation, seems to come in several different (nominal) amp ratings, and, interestingly, in a 'standard car' or in a 'crawler' version. The one for crawlers - slow rock-climbing cars - is also recommended for tanks, and has a jumper giving the sort of instant reverse we would use for boats. This looks like an example... Which might help if anyone's browsing cheap brandless ESCs...

All hooked up, nowt happens... by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. If it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). If you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. Water cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv water cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushed ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.

Excelsior by Gascoigne Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Joe, In answer to your queries, Hull was built in the bread and butter system using deal sealed inside and out with coats of yacht varnish and painted using acrylic. Subsequent models of Wherries and Chinese Junks were plank on frame using 1/8” balsa strips sealed with resin,varnish inside and out, with again acrylic paint. Balsa easier to work with to gain experience - reasonable effectiveness both in carvel and clinker planking. All the best and good sailing. Gascoigne

Upper & Lower Chines by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Robbob, thanks for the heads up on London Model Engineering Exhibition at 'Ally Pally' in January 2019. I am hoping to be there, Just to see your masterpiece !