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Started on a new "in between" model boat Vivace drawn by Glynn Guest. I'll use a Chinese jet drive as designed by GG but with a minor modification 😁 Which is a BL Turnigy 3800KV 2627 running on 2S LiPo. (as I also did on my NQD Tear Into Pro Mod.)
This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet. The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about £25 from Amazon. These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead. I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors the second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors. The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same couplings and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder. The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less Specifications: KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV RPM: 50000 Max Current: 42A
Hi Steve, I have a much better English manual for the Turnigy TXs, only the 6 Ch version but the basics are the same just - extrapolate the channel allocation instructions to 9 channels, and no Chinese gobbledygook like from Hobbyking😊 Conrad shop here in Germany market the same beast under their brand-name 'Reely', yes really😉 PDF to download attached. Good luck, Doug 😎
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.
Hi Allen, I heartily agree Chinese specs should be taken with a generous pinch of salt 😉 But even a quoted 'peak 320A' ESC should be able to handle 100-150A which is probably 10 to 12 times what you will need for the little Mabuchi. Your Wattmeter is almost identical to mine👍 Connect battery to the 'Source' wires and 'Load' to the ESC and away you go. Do the test with the prop / motor under load, i.e. in the domestic test tank! Don't forget the Souwester!! 😉 I'll be surprised if the full ahead test is more than 10A. Have fun, Doug 😎 Primroses and daffs are only out in the Garden centres and supermarkets here, be another 4 weeks or so before much happens outside. 🤔Although my Winter Jasmine is still bravely blooming bright yellow 😊
Thanks Doug. I am not sure I would rely on my Chinese friends' measurement of amps but I have used a few of the ESCs and they haven't blown up yet. How would I go about testing the amperage? I have my little unused Watt Meter. Do I, simply, connect it between the battery and the ESC and take the reading while running the motor? Sorry to hear about the snow, we are just moving into Spring. Primroses and Daffodils are out and days are lengthening. At last.
Elke HF 408 now refitted. Running on a Mabuchi motor geared 2:1, 2mm shaft and 30mm 3 blade propeller. Still fiddling with the ballast but almost ready to sail. Yet to find a suitable fishing net to suit 1:36 scale. Control is via a 40mhz Hitec Ranger 3, Acoms receiver and Chinese 320A fan cooled ESC. As they would say in Cardiff she looks tidy. Many thanks to Tica/BRCarsten for photos of the plans.
Hi Colin, that's exactly what you will get from Kaleas. The new company took over the production facilities of the old Böhler company. Happy 'schleifing', in German a sander is a 'Schleifgerät' 😉 You piqued my interest, will shortly be ordering the Mini-schleifgerät from Kaleas. They have a good range of other Minitools as well👍 thanks for the pointer! Cheers Doug 😎 PS In desperation have also sometimes tried cutting down 'standard' material to fit mini machines, with very mixed results 🤔 More trouble than it is often worth.
Hi Dave, yes you're right. My version is marketed by Conrad here in Germany under the brand name REELY and they call it the 'HT-6'. It came with comprehensive manuals in German and good English on a mini CD-RM. When I checked on the Conrad site (they have an excellent Downloads page 😊) I found an update from 2015. I had no problems completely programming the TX unit from this manual. The only error in it was in para. 16 "press the binding button on the receiver ..." when of course it is on the TX! But at least the photo legend was correct😉 If anyone wants a copy of the PDF file PM me and I'll mail it to them. This reminds me of the discussion we had on this unit and clones / branding a few months ago! When I looked on the Turnigy site I found only the half Chinese half English gobbledygook manual 🤔 which needs a lot of interpretation. Penalty I paid for much better documentation was that Conrad price was nearly twice the Turnigy/Hobbyking price 😡 Good luck Chris, - if I were you I'd do a 'Factory Reset' and start from scratch step by step. Cheers Doug 😎 PS w.r.t. 'using what for what' My Turnigy/Reely will probably be used for most surface ships. Will probably use my Spektrum DX6 for the Catalina, and I still have the old Graupner MC-10 40MHz for the two subs where 2.4 gig don't woik 🤔. MC-10 only has two model memories so that fits! Now what can I do with the old Sanwa 35Meg job??? 30 years old and still going strong 😉
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.
Hi Eric Chinamen all celebrating Chinese New Year so shipping delayed until they return to work. My experience is expect 20 days against the more common 10 days. Could be longer if your order is high value an attracts HM Customs interest!😭
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 3 months ago
Hello Doug Thanks for all of the useful information and yes it is a 'Black Art' and I have been party to some heated debates regarding props on large passenger carrying boats. I was highly amused by the link to 'Raboesh' which if it wasn't a Chinese company should have been. The model I am building is a Rother class lifeboat which will have twin props and a single rudder and I have read that due to the limited swing of the rudder the turning circle of the boat is much improved by having independently powered motors. Not at that stage yet still early days of the build. Thanks again and best regards Chris G