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>> Home > Tags > circuit

circuit
circuit
advise required by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I'll require advise soon as it's so long since I touched any R/X s. servos ,escs etc I've forgotten how things connect up. I don't want any magic smoke if you get me🤔 such as I bought some small J.S.T. connectors but are there adaptors to couple up to standard sizes? Are Sanwa rx's a different polarity to say Graupner,Futaba. Same goes for relays and B.E.C.s . I'll need simple circuit diagrams and all sorts of stuff. Sent in hard copy if possible with written/printed explanations. In colour would be the icing on the cake. Trouble is I'm as thick as the proverbial brick 🤓 Not just yet as I'm still housebound. I have some stuff already joined up that I can follow for some guidance at first at least. Anyone still up take a look at the lovely moon "Full" or close to it.

Tamiya Tape! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Ron, don't worry👍 I already sent Ed some wiring diagrams with resistor calcs for his LED circuits and links to resistor sources in the US. BTW: I assume you meant Component Shop, or maybe RS Components? Otherwise just 'components' could mean anything / anywhere, especially to Ed who is in USA! Thanks for responding anyway👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
most 6V sail winches will work fine on 4.8 volts. if you NEED 6V then things get way more interesting. Check to see what voltage your receiver can handle ( some have built in BECs some not). in the event your radio needs nominal 5V ( 4.8) and sail winch 6V then you need a 6V power supply and a BEC to power the receiver. However some sail winches have a built in BEC so you can power your radio via the winch. ( BEC= battery eliminator circuit in effect a voltage regulator )

Genesis 9000 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Peter very unusual problem with the switch😲 You could temporarily replace it with a bullet connector to continue trials. Glue one end down so that you can quickly unplug the battery one handed. OR: simply short circuit the switch and use the fuse as the 'switch'!? Boat looks a little heavy / tail heavy? Maybe shift some weight a little forward to give more stability? Happy trialling, cheers Doug 😎

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, snag with the ESCs is that bY connecting all 3 red leads to the the RX you are shorting the outputs of all the Battery Eliminator circuits together. If they are not protected by fast diodes you may do serious damage to the ESCs 😡 The RX only needs one supply anyway. If you are going to use a separate RX battery then DEFINITELY disconnect all 3 ESC red leads! Cheers Doug 😎

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug, Thanks. Yes, there was a trim tab. To avoid your enjoyment of future epistles, all will be revealed in the fullness of time The motor control circuit is also something I am thinking about. For my current test program am going to use a simple 1 control - 1 motor. Do not know of the name Tasmanian Devil, the guy who has been very helpful is called Michael. You are probably right, think it could be "overmotored", but that will be revealed in the tests. Rowen

Vintage Nikko boats by Ralhar Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
Does anyone have any old Nikko jet tornado rc boats? I'm fixing one for a friend ( total pain in the @ss) however I'm trying. I just popped off the antenna wire from the circuit board and I have no clue where to solder it back Thanksge

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK, the steam genny could take some serious current! What batts are you planning to use? The three light circuits will draw (worst case) around 150mA all together. More likely about 75mA so a 5000mAHr batt would last with lights alone about 1/2 to one week! The batt would hardly notice them 😉 If you use a 7.2V NiMH for the lights alone, with a 60Ohm resistor in each circuit, then a little 1000mAH batt would last between 6.5 and 13 hours! Should be enough for even the hardiest sailor 😁 Now 03:15 here so 'Doug's Electronics Shop' is closing for the day. Tomorrow is another one, ciao Doug 😎

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi again, I recommend that you use three circuits of 3 LEDs each. If your main battery is 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) you can then use a 120 or 150Ohm resistor for each circuit. Lower value resistor = brighter light! With a NiMH at 7.2 V use 60Ohm resistors, with a 7.4V LiPo use 68 or 75Ohm resistors. 1/8th or 1/4 Watt resistors will do. Have an illuminating time 😊, cheers Doug 😎

Main Cabin Doors! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I remember when I could do detailed work. Like that not any more! Eyes just don't do that any more!😡 Running light will be port starboard and one steaming ahead light top of main mast! for a total of three lights on that circuit! Deck lights will be 6 white lights going around the main cabin. I figure I'm going to use 3 Volts for each circuit! What do you recommend for the resister values? Since they are LED's I figured 3 volts should be OK right! The LED's are the 3mm clear type! Thanks!

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ed, send me a sketch of the running light and deck light circuits; i.e. how many circuits with how many lights (LEDS) in each, and the voltage they should run off, and I'll work out the dropping resistor values for you.👍 Your doors remind me of the ones I made for my destroyer, but mine are only about 5 cents tall (ca 2cm) at 1/72. Stanchions are 15mm, with brass wire supports soldered on to every second one, all the way round a 1.35m deck plus gun decks 😲 Didn't even want to SEE brass wire for months after that! Cheers Doug 😎

Bollard Hieght! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy frigate, probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stash😉 Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a Humbrol wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration 😉 How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and Italeri acrylics. Cheers Doug 😎

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! It has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet. Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking! Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made. BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉 If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz. Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊 Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet. The spark energy density spectrum peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference. BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲 The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got! Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔 Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections. Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place! Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper?? These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲 If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how. I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation. Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation. Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage. Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed. BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊 Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊 Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy. Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC. Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse. Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔 Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from. Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭 Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse. Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board. Have fun, cheers Doug 😎