Agree entirely. High time we consigned political correctness to the dustbin. The model looks like what I think was called a wedge racer back in the day. They were quite popular on the racing circuits. Happy eclipse day! Dave
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. If your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave
First, thanks to all for their helpful replies. To answer a few questions: 1) The installation has two independently controlled ESC/Power train systems in a long, narrow patrol boat. They were fitted for maneuverability and achieve that target well. 2) All Rx functions failed when the ESC failed, pointing to a BEC circuit failure. 3) The ESCs are of UK manufacture and, I hasten to add, have previously worked well. Have used this product for years and am satisfied with it. 4) The presumed reason for failure was, in a effort to increase the performance and reduce the weight of the model the power has (after a series of trials with 9 to 14 v NiMh batteries) gradually evolved to a 17 volt Li-Po system. This final iteration had performed well for some time. Guess using a 12 volt ESC on a 17 volt system would eventually lead to failure - Mea Culpa! Funnily enough,when cooled down all functions work properly - until they heat up again. Have ordered 2 more ESCs from the same manufacturer, but now rated at 12 - 24 volts - should solve the issue. In view of the various recommendations to use a separate Rx power system, think this is the easiest solution to avoid a total system failure in future. Again, thanks for the advice.
Hi rolfman Your quadcopters use forward only escs. I suspect the problem with model boat escs is the reverse. I don't have the circuit diagrams for ESCs so its difficult to be certain what causes the problem. I do know some escs with bec and switches work without being switched on if connected to a signal and power supply but subsequently fail usually with the full forward either on or off. Not all escs exhibit this which is why I asked what esc was being used. Trillium You are correct and is another reason I advised against this suggestion. dave
I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?
Hi Nick, all sorts of goodies! But let's walk before we try to run 😉 One thing I would recommend is a Wattmeter for testing your motor / battery combinations so you know what current the motor will draw. Re RX Battery: PLEASE do not forget to disconnect the red lead in the ESC plug for the RX otherwise you get a clash between the RX battery and the BEC circuit of the speed controller! Cheers Doug 😎
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁
Hi Nick, don't get upset, just slow down and try to be a little more accurate for us. Above all don't just plunge in with 'wild' experiments if you're not sure of the way forward. We are happy to help, and your problems are not insignificant, we all have some as we get older, but there's not much we can do if it is already too late due to 'wild' experiments🤔 Dave may well be right, after all this trial and error you may need to charge the battery again. That's why I asked if you have a simple voltmeter; a) to check the battery volts and b) if it is getting to the RX. Basic test engineering; #1: if it don't work has the circuit got volts? #2: If not why not ?? So, can you check the battery voltage please? Cheers Doug PS if possible (budget / 'er indoors or whatever) I can strongly recommend a simple cheap variable power supply to power such tests instead of having to rely on the battery from the boat. Let us know when you have the new battery and are charged up ready to go again. 👍😉
I used the stack two motors; the circuits and the esc so as the control radio of the tiny submarine i got for the purpose; the weight was right to float correct by the waterline; you can see it on a video on my little Youtube channel (look at Salvatore Mazzarella ) rescuing a sunseeker predator yacht with many glamour ladies in the bathub. P.S. unfortunately I am still living at work!