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>> Home > Tags > circuit

circuit
circuit
Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Pete, Do you have a Battery Capacity Checker? Like in the pics? Open circuit voltage is NOT a reliable indication of the battery's charge state😲 As you can see in the pics my two bats, 1 LiPo one NiMh, both show voltages above the nominal value. But the capacity / charge state less than half!! Be warned! Believe I did suggest to you to note the capacities before you left Hungary last time. Whatever - Have Fun😉 Cheers, Doug

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
By the way ... Although I've marked up the boards with Field and Brushes that's just my personal preference 😊 The beauty of this circuit is that it is ALMOST foolproof! You can switch the field and brushes wiring over, but in pairs, or reverse the wires in either pair and it will still work, just run the other way! You can also swap the + and - from the ESC and the motor just runs the other way round! Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Good afternoon, Doug: I found the flat-topped LEDs at Ali Express. The url for these LEDs is: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32462840779.html? I’ve included another photo of the LED that has a dimensioned sketch with it. FYI, I’ve ordered lots of stuff from Ali Express, such as hobby tools & supplies, electronic components, gizmos, gewgaws & doodads. One particularly nice thing I purchased is a wireless guitar-to-amp device. Everything I’ve bought has been top-quality, but because nearly everything ships from China it can take several weeks to be delivered to me here in Massachusetts. Now for the inevitable question: If I use your drawing as it is now & modified the circuit board, added the resistors as you’ve already indicated & connected white LEDs in all locations, everything would work OK, but some LEDs would be brighter than others because your design was based on using colored LEDs. Correct? Based on your observations & experience would any harm be done? Don’t worry, I’m not going to jump the gun without your final drawing (which I’m in no rush for...take your time). I’m just curious. Which leads to my last remark, for now. For some reason my wife thinks I ask far more questions than “normal” people do. She claims that I’m exceedingly curious. I don’t know what she means, but her offhand remarks have inspired me to rechristen the Richardson. When the LED project is complete & the tug is all ship-shape & Bristol fashion, her new name will be: “Curiosity”.

Aerokits MTB, what is it?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Doug, I always seem to be behind with this thread, missing bits. Great to hear the board is a success. I would only need three at the most, or just do the one and I can copy that to make any more. What video link do you mean? I thought Bob's boards were printed circuit based rather than nice fat rheostats. Cheers, Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Mornin' Pete, First off; I must admit that this effort isn't entirely altruistic! 😉 You piqued my curiosity (very dangerous!) but I can also use this set up in my Southampton tug 😊 although I will have to build the RC switches that you have on that circuit board.🤓 Not for the first time! For the LEDs I used these for the tests- https://www.banggood.com/search/led-3mm-100.html?direct=6&sb... For a few bucks you have 100 coloured LEDs which should last you a while👍 BTW: I'll send you my mast over so you can fit the teeny weeny lamp brackets for me 😁😁 Look forward to seeing some pics of how you do that. All the best, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Pete, JFF I built a little 'breadboard' (now where's my peanut butter!?😁) to test your LED lighting configurations. Theory and calculation is fine but there's nowt like an acid test😉 Pics attached of the results (Christmas tree😊). Difficult to capture the colours due to the very bright white LEDs🤔 Will play with the resistors to bring up the yellows and dampen the whites a bit. The 3 yellows at the bottom are the deck and cabin lights. The 4 rows at the top are the mast lights, red and green self explanatory! Applied (battery) voltage is shown on the meter top left, current drawn in mA on the meter to the right. The circuits work fine from 6.0V upwards. Current drain is approx- 110mA @ 7.8V (fully charged 6 cell NiMh) 103mA @ 7.5V (probable voltage after running a little while) 90mA @ 7.2V (nominal NiMh battery voltage. It will flatten out at approx this voltage after running a while - until it suddenly collapses at the end!) 75mA @ 6.6V (voltage of FLAT 6 cell NiMh battery) 60mA @ 6.0V curiosity! Below this some LEDs switch off. Brightness is noticeably reduced. I think we can increase some resistors to reduce the current drawn without reducing the lighting effect😊 More info soon, I'm still experimenting, then I'll start modding my own tug😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Pete, Yep, the colour of the LEDs can be determined by doping the diode chip with various elements. The early ones were either red or clear, so the colour was added in the epoxy dome around the chip. Cheap ones still are like that. Nowadays you can get LEDs that light different colours according to the voltage applied! For instance in those irritating shelf / vitrine light strings that rotate through a variety of colours all the time.😡 I have some that are red or green depending on which way round you apply the voltage! They are milky white when off. Useful for checking the operation and setup in the boat of brushed ESCs and motors, esp for multi-screw boats, and the output of switching circuits. Funny I always thought halogen lights were a hard white with a blue tint, like some car headlights. Cool on the Kelvin temp range. Yellow is more like the warm white light of a tungsten bulb to me. Yellow deck floodlights are more likely to be sodium lamps, like many street lamps. The measurements you sent me indicated that the switch on voltage (Vf) of the searchlight was 3V and all the others 2V. So I based my final calc on that. If any of your LEDs don't 'strike' with 150Ohm just reduce the resistor to 120 to give it a 'shove'😁 I don't expect that though. I have a box of 300 various LEDs and 1000 various resistors in front of me (and the mast from my Southampton tug😉) so will do some practical tests. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I can strongly recommend that you buy a simple LED Tester, like one of these- https://www.ebay.com/bhp/led-tester I'll help you get the LEDs the right way round in your circuits and tell you how much current they need for a decent brightness, and at what voltage they will turn on! Only a few bucks and saves a lot of aggro. It'll also tell you what colour a 'clear or white' one will be when it turns on😊

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Evenin' Pete, first instalment coming shortly in pdf format. A table, based on your excellent sketches of what you want to do, showing control element on the TX, function, number of LEDs in the cct or ccts, resistor(s) needed, current consumed, for various battery voltages. Example attached as jpg pic. Based on your measurements I am assuming that the searchlight is a 3V high brightness LED and all the others are 2V LEDs, and nominal current 20mA. This means that with a nominal 7.2V supply (Vs) for some circuits with 3 or 4 LEDs two parallel ccts will be needed. All will shortly be revealed 😉 I have optimised the resistors so that a) the LEDs don't fry when the batt is fully charged, 8V, b) that the LEDs can still turn on when the batt voltage dips to the 7.2V nominal. c) Only 2 or 3 values will be needed. Now have to convert my Excel file to pdf. Will follow this up with wiring suggestions, including the little Distribution Board with the resistors. I've tried to combine the lights you want logically considering how they would be used on the real ship. Stay tuned! Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; the mods and resistors suggested in the table mean that the existing SMD resistors on the ccts board must be shorted / replaced with wire. Your wrapping wire (stripped of course!) will be ideal for this😉 Hope you have a small soldering bit!

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Agree Pete, But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔). Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge. I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc. That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED circuits as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself. I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau. I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge! What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉 Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁 Big 3D printer and an Isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps? Cheers All, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi, Doug: Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake. Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house. This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires. The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump. What do you think? If you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense. Or am I AWOL from reality...again? Thanks, Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hello, Doug: Are you doing OK? I sincerely hope so. 🙏🏼 Three questions have come up as a result of my searches on MB for information about & photos of Hobby Engine’s various tugs. First, when you have the time, will you please look at the wires that run from the circuit board up to the pilot house LEDs & ceiling light & let me know what gauge you think they are? I’ll need to get wire of the same gauge for my LED mast lighht connections, (assuming it can be done at all). Second, I would like to get a new 7.2V battery with a much higher amp-hour rating. Can I simply get a higher capacity battery & charger to do this as long as I stay with 7.2v? Last, the factory motors in the HE tugs seem to be quite robust & powerful. Why does it seem like most boaters can’t wait to replace them? Thanks, Pete

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Thanks Mike, any other questions I'll be glad to try to answer. Maybe I'll start a micro-Business making the conversion boards 😁 30 years ago I used to make my own etched printed circuit boards, maybe I should refresh that skill!? 😉 Hope the info is useful, as a 'dumb' electronic eng. I'm learning a lot from all you 'mechanical wizards' as well. Makes for a great forum site😊 All the best, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Martin, First your last question😉 "What DO you do with a 3rd channel?" Example: 5 foot destroyer! 1 Throttle. 2 Rudder 3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys 4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys 5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!) 6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10😉) for Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights. All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays! Alles klar? 😉 Re the DX5e; If I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service manual or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't 🤔 and should know the binding procedure backwards. I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses. I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all! Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ 😉😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed 😡 She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' 🤔

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: Sorry about that. Where power enters the circuit board the reading is 8.08 volts, same as the 7.2V battery pack when it’s fully charged. That sounds like something from an Abbott & Costello routine! 😎😎