Having looked at the P94 self build diagrams the two positive and negative leads are connected together on the circuit board. The positive leads are connected by a thin copper track which I suspect would suffer if two mismatched (voltage wise) batteries were connected to each positive lead. By using two sets of leads the wiring is kept to smaller diameter and matches the two power distribution boards by ACTION. The instructions do warn against using separate batteries and there is a wiring diagram showing both sets of leads joined and fed via one large fuse to the battery. However the diagram on the description page shows fuses on each red lead which should be ignored and probably accounts for any confusion regarding battery connections. There can be problems (some are incompatible systems) with 2.4 sets due to the delay in the signal establishing after the ESCs have self set and sometimes when the BEC voltage drops due to high current demands. This can be overcome by changing the chip to a non self setting version or disabling the onboard BEC and using a separate Rx battery. Personally I use a separate battery wherever possible.
I have just looked at mine and attach a photo. I suggest you mark with red tape the same connector on each exciter in the same way mine is marked. If neither work yours are wired differently so reverse the wires and mark with a dot of red paint. The circuit board is integrated with the rx so you will need to buy electronic switcher units for each auxiliary function. Have you decided what radio you intend to use? Ideally you need a spare channel for each auxiliary, but there are other options that work with lesser channels. Choose the radio and we can advise on the switcher units.
Hello folks. Exciters not wired yet. I cannot see any markings on them to indicate which way to do it. RN is coming to my aid............ Battery fits there OK and for getting in and out, but may be a little heavy. The Boat in the bath does not show the waterline than well. Yes I do hope to have the Radar rotating and such a power units should be on its way. Re circuit board, I will look at that with your prompts in my hand and see how I fair. As you indicate, I would like to retain such as the present lighting, but do away with the receiver part. Cheers NPJ
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.
I have an Esc/Mixer from Action Electronics. A P94 which I am thinking of using to control the twin motors on a Richardson Tug. Now I am very new to this sort of thing and when I unpacked it I found it has two plastic panels attached to the circuit board at right angles and measuring 50mm or 2” up into the air. I cannot find any reference to these in the paper work. Are they just to attach the board to something or of greater significance? Also when connecting up the unit to the motors, are there any ‘special issues’ I need to be aware of? Help needed please. NPJ
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ
Ok here we go... forward light example: I took 1 wire from each led and wrapped a small piece of copper wire round them then soldered into one. Then did the same for the others. Then connected to a 9v battery connector using plastic connection block... My son had been doing electrical circuits at school and wanted to help me...
Hi Neil, Don't know how Graham wired his but the simplest is series for each lighting circuit; minimum wiring and only one current limiting resistor calculated to set the specified operating current for the LEDs used. In a parallel circuit the resistor value must be calculated for the sum of the operating currents of all the LEDs in the circuit. Required Resistance = (Voltage Source - LED Forward Voltage) / Max LED Current or R = (Vs-Vf) / Imax As an example, a particular LED has a 3.0 volt forward voltage (Vf) and a maximum current rating of 20mA. It is to be driven with a 5.0 volt source. Therefore, R = (5.0 - 3.0) / .020 or R = 2.0 / .020 or R = 100 Ohms If you do not know the LED specs, typically, a 80-100 ohm resistor will do just fine. All you 'never wanted to know' about LEDs in model boats (or any other model!) you can find here - http://www.laureanno.com/RC/LED-assembly.htm Cheers Doug 😎
I'm looking at three model rc yachts just now and can't decide. JOYSWAY DRAGON FORCE 65 V6 JOYSWAY DRAGONFLITE 95 PROBOAT RAGAZZA V2 Am I right in saying they are all IOM rating so I could enter the race circuit. Do any of them have any niggly faults that have been experienced by owners in the UK. And do they all have removable masts so as I can transport them in a little car. (Fiat 500) Or maybe there are others I can consider. Thank you.
Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here http://www.componentshop.co.uk/futaba-charging-switch-harnes... I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? If so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any auxiliary motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape 😁😉 or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??
It turns out that the 8.4v 600 graupner motor is very power hungry, and itvdoesnt like part throttle usage. The safety circuitry built into the Mtroniks esc cut in to save the motor and esc. But when I took the motor out & tried to run it just on a 7.2v battery, it wouldn't turn. So I gave it a spin by hand, and there was big Klunk, and the motor started to run perfectly again. All seems fine now. But i dont trust it. So I've invested in a brushless motor and matched esc which im in the process of fitting now. Thanks for all your help and postings. Cheers, Dave W 😊
Agree entirely. High time we consigned political correctness to the dustbin. The model looks like what I think was called a wedge racer back in the day. They were quite popular on the racing circuits. Happy eclipse day! Dave
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. If your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave
First, thanks to all for their helpful replies. To answer a few questions: 1) The installation has two independently controlled ESC/Power train systems in a long, narrow patrol boat. They were fitted for maneuverability and achieve that target well. 2) All Rx functions failed when the ESC failed, pointing to a BEC circuit failure. 3) The ESCs are of UK manufacture and, I hasten to add, have previously worked well. Have used this product for years and am satisfied with it. 4) The presumed reason for failure was, in a effort to increase the performance and reduce the weight of the model the power has (after a series of trials with 9 to 14 v NiMh batteries) gradually evolved to a 17 volt Li-Po system. This final iteration had performed well for some time. Guess using a 12 volt ESC on a 17 volt system would eventually lead to failure - Mea Culpa! Funnily enough,when cooled down all functions work properly - until they heat up again. Have ordered 2 more ESCs from the same manufacturer, but now rated at 12 - 24 volts - should solve the issue. In view of the various recommendations to use a separate Rx power system, think this is the easiest solution to avoid a total system failure in future. Again, thanks for the advice.