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>> Home > Tags > coating

coating
boating
contra rotating
hull plating
coating
SEA COMANDER RE-FURB. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊

Spraying/hand painting by luckybill Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.

Water and Grease................ by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks for that. I have picked up one or two references elsewhere that coating all connections made in wiring and servo connections is a good precaution. Also coating exposed circuit boards would benefit them. It is extremely unlikely that I would ever wish to make alterations to such boards, so if it does no harm and may be of benefit then I will have a go. You were right on the rudder links Mark. Better now that I have given them some 'slack' so will just use 3 in 1. All the best. NPJ

Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi mark, many thanks for your input. I have planked before on those "wonderful" De Agostini part works I.e Bismarck, HMS Victory etc. However planning on sheet covering the hull using the templates on 1.5mm ply I have. I also plan to use a coating of finishing resin inside and out but will not be glass clothing as I'm informed it's not necessary. This of course after any required filing gaps, will then prime, sand, prime again and finish using Halfords rattle cans. As for household warefare! Thankfully I get lots of weekdays off when "she who must be obeyed" is at work, the Hoover works overtime before my understanding wife arrives home from work lol

Sea Queen refurbishment by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Just a few quickies. first of all did the drill bit hit the bone? If so it needs an x -ray as there could be bone splinters that will cause pain even after the hole has healed. Re coating boat hulls try 2 part Epoxy paint / resins which can be used with cloth like polyester resin. RN I believe Acetone and various other solvents are available in quantity off the supermarket shelf in France👍. Do you get over the border at all? Not sure but I think the OP that said this mentioned ether too.

Sea Queen refurbishment by octman Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
Back to the polyester! I have just read an item about coating wood with polyester, quoting an apparently well known Australian surf board maker, saying that there are chemicals in the wood that prevent the soaked in resin from setting. It sets on the surface and all appears well, but not deep down and it may all become detached some time in the future. Too late for me though as I have just done mine! Chris

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Dave, very interesting and useful but not all we (I) wanted to know! The main question was / is the viscosity "how runny"! We are not talking about laying up forms here but coating the hull inside by pouring. Think I'll just use Ezekote (just found a dealer in Germany👍) or diluted yacht varnish 😉 Can buy this down the road at the Baumarkt 👍 cheers Doug 😎

Sea Queen refurbishment by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local fiber glass moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. It is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Chris Probably easier to apply to the hull with the deck off. You should leave the deck join area clear to allow for the glue. The bottom of the deck will also benefit and I usually use a pencil to mark where the formers join and keep the coating off this area. If you are using epoxy for the coating and the joining glue this may not be a problem. Once the deck is on apply another coat over the joints to seal. If you could a build blog would be welcome and helpful to other members, please. Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Might have, but it was pinned with brass pins as well, so will be sealing inside with epoxy resin, then coating the hull with eezicote and extra fine glass cloth before painting and vanishing. Well at least she's stripped for action. It must have taken years off her. (Maybe I should get the wife dipped)? Don't tell her.

Dont throw your tins out. by mactin Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi Mark, yes fully nailed up with solder,the key is a long thing that goes down the funnel. this particular hull is made from go system gas cans (empty of course) but if any tins do have any form of coating I leave it on and paint over it. the only bit that needs to be sanded is the bit you are soft soldering. Theres a construction bit on my site www.mclarenclockworksubmarines.com cheers Neil

Dont throw your tins out. by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
hi Neil . A quick question or two ,is this beauty fully soldered? , if you use the large olive oil cans how do you remove the internal coating they tend to have? and where does the key go? Cheers Mark

Fiberglassing by Trillium Captain   Posted: 9 months ago
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi John, Suggest you sand as this will flatten the planking, no doubt each plank has curved slightly as the wood had dried out. Hoover out all the dust from the cracks and fill with a mahogany filler and re-flatten. The inside of the hull will also need varnishing to stop the wood drying out again. Would not advise wetting the planking to raise the grain as is normal practice as this might swell the wood and loose the filler. First use a good quality polyurathene varnish, brushed on but avoid runs, lightly sand to give a key before recoating. At this stage do not worry about the brush strokes showing. After at least 8 coats use wet and dry paper to sand the surface flat. Now apply a yacht varnish that does not dry so quickly and brush strokes will on the whole disappear. I suggest at least 3 coats to finish lightly wet and dry between coats. The more coats you give the deeper the shine. Use a good quality brush, a cheap brush drops hairs and does not give a smooth finish. If you look at my harbour and look at 'River Dance' you will see the finish this method can achieve. Good luck and hopes this helps. Vic