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>> Home > Tags > coats

coats
coats
Varnish by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Alan, just a point that John made, if you have a paint shop in your area that does custom paint finishes, watch them, they consider 30 coats of lacquer only adequate, but the finish soooo deep but 3 weeks to finish a car, bit OTT Mark

Varnish by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hola Alan, not surprising if you dry sand! Using the wet / washing up liquid technique, BY HAND and with not too much pressure, and a final buffing with a sheepskin pad, I used to achieve finishes on cars you could see your face in 👍 Created a nice little sideline earner for me 😉 I can also strongly recommend spraying (airbrush) several thin coats instead of brushing. This creates an inherently flatter, glossier surface and requires much much less flatting and polishing 😊 Good luck, Doug 😎

Varnish by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Exactly Haverlock👍 wet with washing up liquid between coats is what creates the polishing effect and final gloss. Something I learned the hard way back in my car restoration days. Dry sanding creates more of a 'silk/satin' or worse matt effect. 😎

Varnish by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
use 600 wet and dry wet for first few coats then 1200 wet then after last coat wait a few weeks and use something like "T" cut ( used to restore car paint). The wet and dry is better used wet ( with a dash of washing up liquid in the water) since it cuts down on the clogging of the paper.

Painting and detailing superstructure by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Good progress on superstructure so far. base coat orange applied, anti-dazzel black applied. have started the weathering process on the doors hatches ect and applied the lettering. Not sure how acurate the applied lettering acuracy is, but I am happy with it. I have monday and tuesday off work (Sunday I am being tasked in the garden!) so plan on building, painting and adding the wiper blocks and wipers, all handrails, stanchions, lighting, horn, searchlight, twin antennas, all roof wire work, lifebelt, RNLI Flag and pole, motor for radar and grapple poles. Once all thats added, the whole superstructure less the anti-dazzle panels will get a couple of coats of gloss laquer before I pop in the glazing. Plan is to finish the superstructure completly before moving back to the hull.

Painting commenced! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
So, now onto the pleasant task of adding some colour to primed wood! White primer, followed by 3 light build up coats of VW Brilliant Orange. It’s also had a single gust of laquer. Will leave overnight to garden before masking off for the black panels. Will then start to retail paint and add all the exterior extras like lights, horn, searchlight, handrails, antennas etc.

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.

Clothing complete, superstructure started! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Good weekend of progress has seen the hull glass clothing completed and has now had 2 coats of resin. Will get a 3rd and final coat after last stabilzer is fitted before final sanding, priming and painting (once motors and propshafts have been fitted). Have also made good progress on the cabin superstructure which has now started to get this "Solent" closer to the eventual finish line! Not much more can be done this week as starting Nights tonight, sometime good to have a break though!

Deck in! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
After a week away in Lanzarote, have had a couple of days to get some work done. Left side of hull is now fully sheeted, gaps filled and awaiting final sanding and glass clothing. Decided to get ahead of myself and have fitted all the deck pieces and the cabin deck formers. The inside of the hull has had a second coat of epoxy resin and will get a couple of coats of yaht varnish once the final pieces of internal wood parts have been fitted to include battery tray, motor mounts, prop shafts, servo rail, ESC tray, receiver tray, speaker/engine sound module tray. Up at the bow have fitted the wood for the on/off switch, sanded, sealed and primed the bow deck before adding a couple of the detail parts.

What paint type by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Dave, Yep. I'm also sure they must have something similar. Re: Common FT Market; surely that only affects tax and duty? Mark is right about the commercial companies. Some firms seem to use fairly small, obscure ones with low volume! Some the most expensive - like UPS🤔 Also; many carriers appear to make surcharges on 'dangerous items' like paints, resins and such. Many refuse to carry them, e.g Royal mail, esp. across borders! That's why I had to find a German distributor of the Schneider / WEM ColourCoats paints. Snapped up the last 5 tins of MTB Green in Germany apparently 😉 cheers Doug 😎

What paint type by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave

web site by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Dave, Thanks for the advice (aimed more at the non-computer guys here I guess 😉), but I was programming computers back in the 8 bit paper tape days! Due to limited storage space (kbytes not Giga or Terrabytes!🤔) I quickly learned to use it sparingly and clear the junk out after every session! Nowadays it's sadly more of a security question. ALL my possible browsers are set to clear cache, cookies, searches, sites visited etc etc on closure. At the end of each session I also use CCleanerPro (formerly CrapCleaner!) to clear out all caches, MS usage logs, temporary thumbnails Temp files, and deleted files - Waste Basket and Uncle Tom Cobbley and all!. So there can not have been anything in the browser cache - especially on the very first attempt. I agree with your last comment - my interpretation is that when McAfee looked at the site it exhibited behaviour which is classed as Suspicious! I won't be trying it again. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: i suppose I could dig out the site report, but frankly it's not worth the bother, more interesting things to do! ColourCoats paints for the PT boat and T45 as well as LifeColor cammo colours for KM and RN WW2 arrived today. Only ordered 'em yesterday 😊😊

Glass clothing hull by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
So, today after sheeting and filling hull yesterday, today has been dry enough outside to give the hull a coat of sanding sealer and a thorough rub down. This has been followed by applying glass cloth with a squeegeed initial coat of Z-poxy resin. This will be followed by sanding between a further 2 coats of resin.

hanley by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/700g hanley Capable of 4mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a tape drive (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built stand off model of uss handley i believe cant find the plans i used to confirm the correct name, the hull is 3mm balsa for the sides covered with 1mm white card, the bottom is 5 mm balsa. scratch built propeller 3mm shaft and tube to match , scratch built propeller and rudder and fittings, the boat was painted with 4coats of enamelspray primer and 4 coats of light grey enamel with a black bottom.

yacht by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 10/10] 26"/900g yacht Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: totally scratch built from online plans, hull and frames 3mm hard balsa overed in the bosses tights, 4 coats of sand and seal, followed by 8 coats of yacht varnish, this has produced a rigid and very light hull. 3mm ply keel and home made 600gramm bulb, home made mast, mylar 45 micron sails goose neck and rudder.