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>> Home > Tags > coats

coats
coats
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 5 hours ago
Back to the main hull Have finally got the hull sprayed today with this heat it has been drying faster than I can spray it on 😄 Firstly the hull was sanded with a 200grit paper to sand of the shiny coating to give the paint something to key too. It has had three coats of undercoat sanded with 2500grít wet and dry paper between each coat.the undercoat used was Halfords rattle can plastic primer. Then the lower hull colour was sprayed on again three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.colour used was Halfords rattle can ford arctic blue. the top half of the hull was sprayed with two coats only with it being black plus I didn't have enough paint to give it a third coat😋 colour used was Halfords rattle can satin black. Finally the hull was sprayed with Halfords rattle can clear lacquer three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.

Gloss Varnish? by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Dont know if you want to brush or spray ,Rust-Oleun spray gloss is very good as long as you don't try to put it on to thick (milky sheen)but if you follow the instructions thin coats and drying time between coats it is a good finish. Cheers Marky

Graupner ranzow refitting by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Have finally got round to sanding the deck edge to blend into the hull using permagrit files and 200grit sand paper ready for its couple of coats of a water based varnish before applying the paint Ron

wooden ladders by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Yes, I think it was Fred, they were given a couple of coats of clear lacquer after sanding to finish them off.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Evenin' MT, Go to the Top of the Class! 👍 I came to the same conclusion so I built Mk2 like the Proverbial Brick S..t House 😲 Pics 1 & 2. In the meantime my 6mm lime boards had arrived from Krick so this time I cut formers and didn't bend or slit anything so it's good an' rigid 😊 Pic 3 clamping, Pic 4 trial fit prior to final trimming, Pic 5current status; 3 coats pore filler, 2 coats Lord Nelson gloss varnish flattened with 3000 grit. Still a little way to go, CU tomorrow, Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: had never thought of filling the slits, 🤓 damn good tip, must remember that 👍👍 Could come in handy on my HMS Manxman build - last pic is from the the Deans Marine instructions for the hull preparation! Reckon I can do it a bit neater 😉

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp clamps 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎

Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
I haven't posted for a while as I have only been running on three cylinders, but all four firing now, so off we go. An edging is glued around the boatdeck, this then allows a thin piece of plasticard to be glued in place for the boatdeck bulwark, after the glue had dried, planks cut from a sheet of veneer were glued inside and out and the bulwark and finished with a teak capping. A cardboard template was made for the boatdeck overlay planking, this was then transferred onto 1mm ply for the planking to be laid on. Using planks cut from a sheet of veneer and cotton thread for the caulking, Aliphatic glue, a tooth pick and my best glasses the planking was completed. The finished planking was given several coats of clear lacquer rubbing down in between coats to give it a nice finish. Planking at this scale with fine thread as caulking is definitely a labour of love.

Limited progress today! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Limited today by tasks around the house as set by “Mrs H”! Ive added the name plate (Not correct scale, but looks nice enough!), painted the matt black anti-dazzle panel and gave the whole thing a couple of coats of laquer. All thats left to complete the rear cabin is the roof and side numbers 44-003 in black as this particular boat had rear cabin numbers. Looking at some reference pics, it looks like one of the anchors mounts to the front wall of the cabin, so will paint that and attach in due course. Tomorrow I am going to try and get the rudder servo, ESC's and battery tray fitted before I continue with building the forward cabin and other above deck features.

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Thanks to you too Peter 👍 Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter 😉 I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. 😉

Detailing/painting aft cabin by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Last couple of days has seen some detailing added to the rear cabin using the Waveney Lifeboats book for reference. all bits n bobs have been scratch built and are the general bits that seem to have been added to most of the 22 Waveneys that were in service with the RNLI. The cabin was was then primed before adding rivet detail using a cocktail stick and PVa glue blobs. The whole thing has had 3 coats of VW Halfords orange spray. Shall leave that to harden overnight before I detail paint the roof grab rail, add the black anti-dazzle panel and the name panels made from official RNLI vinyl lettering. The whole thing will get a couple of coats of laquer and then will be considered finished!

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience 😉 Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process 🤔 See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. It's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊 Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊 For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and Italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. It should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detail👍 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go 😉 Look forward to the Blog👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
Here is where the build is at now this was taken after the second coat of yacht varnish, all in all it has now had 4 coats of varnish and is ready for painting the lower deck.

Let’s get some paint on! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Last couple of days things have moved on nicely! I have done some more work on the forward cockpit adding window frames from plasticard, still a long way to go on that part of the build. Cockpit is still loose from the hull, will be glued on once all the extra detailing has been completed. Have started to paint the exterior hull and add some decals. After several coats of grey and red primers with flating inbetween, have left the bottom of the hull oxide red. The blue is "Ford Royal Blue" which is a recommended match for RNLI boats. Some waveneys appear in a light blue, but I am basing mine on 44-003 which was the darker blue. Red and white trimlines added, bumper strips painted black, lettering was from eBay (search custom vinyl lettering). Finally a light coat of laquer to protect. several coats of laquer will be added at the end.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Boatshed, Know what you mean about brushing and brushes! You CAN achieve the same effect with brushes, but it takes much longer, with much more flattening in between coats. So much more 'secret ingredient is needed! Brushes from DIY shops, and most model shops, you can forget 🤔 too synthetic, too coarse and too prone to shedding hairs. 😡 For tiny detailing work, esp on Plastic Magic projects, I went to an art supplies store! Prompted by the GF who is into oil and water colour painting! There you will find a great selection of very fine real hair brushes in sizes from 'Help I can't see it'! to about 1" flat, used for applying 'washes' 😉 Not cheap, but quality never is! For example; I'm using a 1/4" flat camel hair brush for renovating the wood decks of my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast with sealer and satin varnish from the Lord nelson range. Will also apply some Jotica Oak stain to dampen the bright colour a bit. For the pinstripe / Boot Topping on the Sea Scout I'm 'Going for Gold', to be applied with the finest airbrush nozzle I have and using Tamiya masking tape to get a good clean edge. hardest part will be getting the tape on right 😲 Hope I don't mess up what I have already achieved! Cheers Doug 😎