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>> Home > Tags > cockpit

Cockpit detailing by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 hours ago
Not a great deal of action today, had to do some the as detailed by the “mrs”! Added the forward cockpit coming roofy thing, shaped, sanded, filled, sealed and sanded again. Last thing today was to build a pair of simulated engine intakes. My be a few days till more work now as back on shift

Let’s get some paint on! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Last couple of days things have moved on nicely! I have done some more work on the forward cockpit adding window frames from plasticard, still a long way to go on that part of the build. Cockpit is still loose from the hull, will be glued on once all the extra detailing has been completed. Have started to paint the exterior hull and add some decals. After several coats of grey and red primers with flating inbetween, have left the bottom of the hull oxide red. The blue is "Ford Royal Blue" which is a recommended match for RNLI boats. Some waveneys appear in a light blue, but I am basing mine on 44-003 which was the darker blue. Red and white trimlines added, bumper strips painted black, lettering was from eBay (search custom vinyl lettering). Finally a light coat of laquer to protect. several coats of laquer will be added at the end.

Bridge/Cockpit/Flight Deck construction by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
so, having been at work all weekend, today saw a day off and a few hours to start building the foreward cockpit bridge thingy. There will be quite a bit of shape changing mods to this part as we build, simply because the Dumas kit is of the 44ft Coastguard cutter and the Waveney class Lifeboat has quite a few differences. Changes to make include the windows, the rear walls to be extended to take acount of extra windows at back of cab, forward sloping front piece, engine intakes on both sides, and changes to the roof. Still waiting on a reference book on "Waveneys" from ebay, should have been here by now! that will give me the change to start super detailing the exterior decs, cabins ect.

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Many Thanks MT, 👍 You're right! I've already marked out the 'hatch' on some 1.5mm mahogany to match the roof. Have to think about the surround, i.e. have a rummage through the bits box! But I reckon you're right again, it would look better with some sort of frame. Still haven't figured out what to do with the cockpit, or even what scale crew I should be looking for ... Help!😲 Re Cabin roof detail .. That's it for now, until I start fiddling with mast and lights an' such 😉 What did you want to know? I've got a ship's wheel ca 1", some chrome deck fittings and Skydive has given me some inspiration regarding the 'Pulpit' rail, apart from that ...... Ciao, Doug 😎 Just remembered; I've started cutting out some 1.5mm mahog strip to make the wooden handrails on the roof. More later 😊

more progress. by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.

Cabin detail Pt 1 by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Today has seen the prop shafts and motors installed, all nice and straight and bind free. Once all That was epoxied in and set, I made a pair of prop shaft struts from plasticard and tubing, not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance. I also fashioned some approx scale sized rudders using standard off the shelf rudders, removing the blades and making new blades with 0.8mm brass sheet, pinned and soldered and painted in oxide red primer. Last job of the day was to start building the cockpit floor and to give the hull another coat of resin.

Help needed, running sheet to main by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ron Specs for the HS-82MG are Motor Type: 3 Pole Bearing Type: None Speed (4.8V/6.0V): 0.12 / 0.10 sec @ 60 deg. Torque oz./in. (4.8V/6.0V): 39 / 47 Torque kg./cm. (4.8V/6.0V): 2.8 / 3.4 Size in Inches: 1.17 x 0.47 x 1.16 Size in Millimeters: 29.72 x 11.94 x 29.46 Weight ounces: 0.66 Weight grams: 18.7 It is metal geared but may struggle as a sail winch. A single arm servo usually has an elastic band attached to the other end of the line (kite string) from the servo arm. So you run the line thro the hole in the cockpit coaming and take it to a pulley attached to the deck in line with the hole and near the stern. The line then runs along the deck and near the front of the coaming an elastic band is attached and run to a fixing near the bow. You then use a line with a bowsie to connect the mainsail to the winch line via a fixing on the deck below the boom. There may be other ways to run the line but the important point is to keep the line tight at all time to prevent tangling.

SG&K gentlemans runabout by BigAlio Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Stancraft boat has spray rails from bow to front of cockpit but I think there needed when you have 625hp on tap : StanCraft Torpedo Viper V10 625hp. think i might build mine as a stancraft version.

Decks removed by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi deep..., Don't know about 'used' looks more like THROWN IN' 😡 from across the room! Good luck, just don't hit the chisel too hard!! Try with a not too blunt chisel to get the bevelled edge under the rim of the c**p. Re: time to work... The fish cutter is well down the to-do list 😉 Although I have managed to clean up and modify my old Taycol Target field motor (removed from the Sea Scout) to run both forward and backward off a normal brushed ESC which will now go in the cutter 😊 My Sea Scout renovation is top of the list. She's now fitted with a new RX, shaft/prop and brushless and ready for sea trials, when the local lake melts 🤔 Then just cosmetics, mostly in the cockpit and after deck area. After that fit decent brass props and electronics to my HMS Belfast. After that .... we'll see 😉 PT109 needs a respray and electronics ... Graf Spee needs a new prop shaft stbd side ... Catalina needs electronics fitting ... Southampton tug needs putting back together ... 🤔 As a single pensioner finding time is easier that it was a year ago. The GF has her own abode ca 2 miles away 😉😉 Happy chiselling, Doug 😎 PS suspect the biggest mess from the cutter will be removing what looks like layers of ancient oil based paint 😡 Will wait for the summer to do that outside.

More Bulkheads by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Michael. You might want to consider enlarging the cut out in CF2 to allow you to get your hand easily into the interior of the cockpit. I think the small 'door' cut out will restrict access if you intend to detail this area with a wheel, throttles and instruments etc. And getting your hand inside is really helpful when it comes to glazing the windows. Apart from that it looks like a 'proper job' 👍 Robbob.

More Bulkheads by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
All the bulkhead parts are made ready for assembly. I decided at this point modify CF2 and B2. B2 to enable easy access for further detailing of the cabin at a later stage and CF2 I cut out what will be the door opening into the cockpit. Each of the bulkheads had 2 x 12 mm holes drilled just below deck level for future wiring runs; they also needed support to secure them at 90 degrees so I made a number of right angle squares to support them squarely and at equal height at each side, these were secured with a temporary brass pin. The spacing at the keel was pre-determined when building the keel components, however the tops need correct spacing by dry fitting the cabin sides and just checking that each side measures the same height, finally the back end of the keel needs supporting to keep everything square. Each of the cabin sides and bulkheads can now be dismantled and reassembled with epoxy resin. NOTE at this stage only the bulkheads are epoxied to the keel, the cabin sides and CF2 are only there to ensure the bulkheads are square and correctly spaced at this stage.

What is this boat ????? by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All The boat is not a Sea Hornet which is 642 mm long and the stern is totally different, also, the rear cockpit is to far forward. It is still a nice boat and would look well restored. I have the original plan and boat. Canabus

Classic by Tica Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 22"/1000g Classic Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Compact 260Z 1380KV (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner 18A (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a aero-naut Classic and I would say that it's a second revision, as there has been changed several items, compared with the one my wife build 3 years ago. 1: The wind shield is now fixed in slots in the deck and not just glued to the edge of the cockpit opening. 2: There are now padding and leather for the seat included. 3: There are a few etched details for the instrumentation, steering wheel and step plates for the deck. 4: There are notches at the break off parts that will help in fixing the sides when gluing them in place. I used the same set-up as my wife's which is: Graupner BL Compact 260Z 1380KV with a Graupne ESC 18A FWD and REV. The shaft is replaced with a Robbe 4mm (no 1442) as the one provided is a flimsy part that will not withstand the motor set-up. Prop is a 33mm Graupner racing item. It will be running on LiPo 2S but if one need a rocket it can run on 3S. Great fun to build and performs great on the water

Downeast Lobster Yacht by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago The Ellis boats must have been the inspiration for this old kit from Midwest. I bought the boat as seen in the first photos which was built by Don Sutton, Metro Modellers Toronto, Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦 He knew I had my eye on making one from scratch and offered me a fair price to buy his boat. I am now adding the hard cover over the cockpit as seen on many of the Bunker & Ellis boats. Previously I added deck furniture to the helm and passenger. Also found the near scale figures. My plan is to add the forward railing around the bow; add deck boards and more furnishings such as two step boarding ladder, navigation equipment, and possible a fresh coat of paint to the hull.