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>> Home > Tags > cockpit

cockpit
cockpit
Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Doug, if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model. I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up. The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. It is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. If you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top. So, what else can it be? I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month. Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too? Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fire Float info. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Found this on the RAF fire fighting museum site. Very useful. It shows that the CC F.F. type pump was similar to the road towed version, but simply mounted and encased and it also shows the Meadows petrol engine. Clearly a 6 cylinder with twin carbs. Probably similar to those used in the Invicta car. One each side. That takes care of most of the open cockpit and the Cove. Climax pump mainly fills the "cabin" which is open backed. Interesting. Martin

Such is life by Kevin-56 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
I fist bought the plans when I was about 12. 50years later I decided to build the boat. It took me about 6months to build. The plans are the original Sufury but with a few changes. The cockpit is similar to that of a cigarette boat, extended the length and added a duck board. The power plant is 2100kv brushless moter, a 120amp speed control, 4mm flex sharftwith 2 11.4volt lipo batteries. In a straight line the boat is fast, but she really leans over when turning. Such is life is fun to drive.

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Interesting Canabus! Not quite what you recommended last year 😲 If you now think the Propdrive 1000kV has "no guts" why did you recommend it to me?? Thanks for spoiling my mood 🤔 As far as I'm concerned you just devalued your currency! I'm happy with her as she is, balance and stability is OK and performance, endurance vs current drain is much more lively than she ever was in 55 years.😊 After all, she's supposed to be a Broads Cruiser and not an Offshore Power Boat.😉 I'm not into racing either. From time to time I'll fiddle with fittings detail and cockpit on Jessica. Time to get on with other projects now. Doug 😎

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Muchas gracias Ed 👍, was worth all the effort. During one run a nice American lady showed up with her grandchildren who were quite absorbed with the boat's antics. We had quite a nice long chat. Was a good afternoon. Now considering what's next (apart from final fittings and cockpit outfit for the Sea Scout): the old fish cutter restoration with my modified Taycol motor or the upgrade / conversion to PT-109 of the 1:35 ELCO PTB I bought last year !? Cheers Doug 😎

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Novagsi0, From the video and pics I see two problems! 1. Ship the fenders before sailing. They seem to be throwing water up onto and into cabin and cockpit. 😆 Bad practice to sail with fenders out anyway. 'Just not done old chap' 😉 2. You have a brushed motor and no spark suppression so it can create interference with the receiver and may also directly affect the ESC. Look here for info on motor suppression. https://model-boats.com/rc/motors/suppression Cheers Doug 😎 PS: think maybe you should raise the coaming around the deck access as well! Making it as tight a fit as possible.

More running in at Bournville. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Dennis The Menace, the captain at the helm strikes again, after a radio outage the cockpit ended up full of water up to his waist. Some fresh paint need on the bow. Need to find out why the speed controller without warning goes mad. Tio Marine 50A ESC and fly sky receiver paring.

Sloop Gypsy by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Ready for it’s first sailing. My wife, Catharine, made this set of sails. Looking forward to seeing it on the water. 15” length. Here is the maiden voyage! The location blocked the wind unless I took it out more, but I know the rudder will “steer” the boat and bring it into the wind. When I removed it from the water, some got into the cockpit so it was not completely water tight. Working on that now.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊

Amati chrome plated ships wheel - Help! by Black Dog Jack Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Let me bring you all up to date. I called a meeting with me and the now famous wheel and noticed there was a lot of flash that had not been cleaned off the castings, so I started filing it off. It was not easy. The metal was hard to file and the revealed surface looked as shiny as the chrome outer. I clamped the rim in a small vice and did the flux and solder thing and it worked! So I mounted the whole assembly in the cockpit of my Huntsman, braced it and superglued it. After a suitable time had elapsed I removed the support and the wheel promptly fell off! It is so heavy! Undaunted I got out the Gorilla Glue and that seems to have fixed it. Yay!

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp clamps 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎

Cockpit detailing by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Not a great deal of action today, had to do some the as detailed by the “mrs”! Added the forward cockpit coming roofy thing, shaped, sanded, filled, sealed and sanded again. Last thing today was to build a pair of simulated engine intakes. My be a few days till more work now as back on shift

Let’s get some paint on! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Last couple of days things have moved on nicely! I have done some more work on the forward cockpit adding window frames from plasticard, still a long way to go on that part of the build. Cockpit is still loose from the hull, will be glued on once all the extra detailing has been completed. Have started to paint the exterior hull and add some decals. After several coats of grey and red primers with flating inbetween, have left the bottom of the hull oxide red. The blue is "Ford Royal Blue" which is a recommended match for RNLI boats. Some waveneys appear in a light blue, but I am basing mine on 44-003 which was the darker blue. Red and white trimlines added, bumper strips painted black, lettering was from eBay (search custom vinyl lettering). Finally a light coat of laquer to protect. several coats of laquer will be added at the end.

Bridge/Cockpit/Flight Deck construction by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
so, having been at work all weekend, today saw a day off and a few hours to start building the foreward cockpit bridge thingy. There will be quite a bit of shape changing mods to this part as we build, simply because the Dumas kit is of the 44ft Coastguard cutter and the Waveney class Lifeboat has quite a few differences. Changes to make include the windows, the rear walls to be extended to take acount of extra windows at back of cab, forward sloping front piece, engine intakes on both sides, and changes to the roof. Still waiting on a reference book on "Waveneys" from ebay, should have been here by now! that will give me the change to start super detailing the exterior decs, cabins ect.