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>> Home > Tags > commander

belt sander
sea commander
wandering star
850 Brushless by BOATSHED Captain   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi canabus, could you please tell me what brushless motor's you have in your, Sea Hornet,Sea Commander and Sea Queen pelese. I have all three of these as well. Somewhere down the line I will be converting those to brushless. I don't understand all the electrical data myself. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico and she is awesome on the water at full speed. I have purchased the same motor and speed controller as what is in her to put in a new MFA Spearfish that I still have on the shelf in my work shed. I look forward to your set up's.

850 Brushless by canabus Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Andy Slightly more power with a brushless motor is a no go!!! Brushless motors the same size are far more powerful !!! But, the about same RPM a Turnigy L5055-700kv(500 rpm more on a 4S(14.8 volts) Lipo battery would be a good replacement. Mind you at 1600 watts( about 2 and 1/4 HP) these will used in a large boat like a 46" Vosper Crash Tender or a 46" Sea Queen!!! My move into brushless motors I have found that they are 7 to 10 times more powerful and equal to, if not better than the old IC motors!!! My Sea Hornet, Sea Commander and Huntsman run brushless motors . My Crash Tender is getting the 5055 motor, so it will be interesting to see what it will go like!!

Sea Queen Spray Rails by IanD Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
My Sea Commander "Jaydee" has spray rails about 3/16th inch square. Have a look at the Aerokits photo gallery. There is a picture of it out of the water and some in action. I believe rails are a must for stability in the turns when going at speed as well as helping lift the boat onto plane. Ian

Sea Queen Spray Rails by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Anyone fitted spray rails to a Sea Queen (or Commander) ? If yes - size(s) and where ?

More Prop Shaft by GARTH Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
I'm reading the chat about stuffing boxes & shafts lots of guys in the club I'm in drill a hole into the stuffing box & solder a small tube over the hole to add oil or grease into the box . I goofed when I built my Sea Commander as I had no stuffing box but I had a shaft so I just used a brass tube for the shaft & lubricated the shaft with Sil-Glyde Lubricating compound a Silicone based grease I also use rudder O-Rings to help stop water getting into model through stuffing box. Kind of Mickey Mouse but it works .Except on first run out of water it does squeal a little but in the water it's fine.

Pool try outs by GARTH Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Nov.13 2017 Spencers pool is being drained for winter skate rink so rushed Sea Commander for a pool try out & shake down . still needs windows & some deck accessories . One of the members suggested to get some tint from a shop that tints car windows & got some tint film for free thanks for that idea . Hope the winter flies by so summer sailing can start again .

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I looked at the Cornwall model site and saw that, what i have decided to do is to leave the two Ni cad batteries in situ and I have weighed the rear/mid section lead weight and it is just 56 grams heavier than the 12 volt 7 amp/h lead acid alarm battery so I will use the 12 volt battery and ditch the lead, the weight of the boat will be the same, I also trimmed the lead at the front end so the bow will come up a fraction more. I have taken the prop of and measured it to be a 55mm, so I am going to fit the water intake, hopefully with some advice from the forum "techys"as to the position, in the photos this is where I can fit it so it is out of the way of the rudder and prop.what do you reckon, I can then get a suitable motor with a water jacket which will be happy to run on 12 volt with enough power not to get hot turning a 45 to 50 mm two blade "x" prop, as suggested by pmdevlin, I may get the Lloydsman up and running as all that needs is dusting of and batteries charging up, (two 12 volt 7amp/h in parallel) and the receiver from the commander fitted although I have not floated it I bought it as a complete working model in 2015, so it is about time it came out of dry dock, also I can look to repairing the rigging and finishing the Odessy Yacht I bought at the same time as the Llyodsman also in dry dock.

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I had a quick look around and discovered this hull matched 12V 750 Speed electric motor, hull matched 40mm 2 bladed prop this from style='background-color:yellow;'>commander.html However if you want performance That should give the equivalent power output to a .40 IC engine and make the hull come to life the way it was intended to. Couple that to a LIPO battery and a suitable ESC. Remember when the kit was originally made IC was the norm The Sea Commander was introduced by Aerokits at Gorleston Norfolk in the early 1950s. Designed by L J Rowell the Sea Commander is a smaller version of the Sea Queen. The length is 34 1/4 inches by 10 3/4 inches and is almost identical except there is no mast. Intended for the ED Marine Racer and Hunter power plants

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, Good morning, Prop first, if the blade to hub is 30mm, it is a 60mm diameter prop, think of the circle of sweep, twice the size that your 550 motor can take. As the shaft is free running, we can discount drag, simply the motor working to extreme, so we need to prop down considerably, If you are staying with the 540 motor in the pics, a 35mm 3 blade prop is the maximum, a rough guide is no bigger than the motor diameter. I would save myself a lot of problems in the future and fit a larger motor, Canabus is right a watt meter will save its readings so you can get a proper idea what the motor is doing. I would swing towards the 850, or the 700. Not expensive but safe to run with a smaller prop. The 700 might fit your mounting but the 850 will need a new one, usually supplied in the box. The Sea Commander will serve you well as a great sailing model, once you are past the teething problems. Just looked back, your first post said the hull was built in the 60's, it might have a 4ba thread, not many ba props available these days, a 4mm prop will fit but it will be tight, don't forget the locking nut (to many props at the bottom of the lake) also a thrust washer to protect the motor bearings. Mark

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi reilly4 I do not think it is as large as 60mm as it is a three bladed prop, if it was a two bladed one I would agree with you as the blades would be directly opposite each other hence 60mm, but being 3 bladed they are not 90 degrees to the centre point, without taking it off and drawing a circle around it to measure I would hazard a guess it is a 30mm prop. If memory serves me correctly the late Swindon Model Shop which was run by Yan who knew his stuff recommended the 540 motor along with the prop for the size of the boat. I will check the Sea Commander plans as I think it has the size of the required prop listed. Haverlock the motor is rated 4.5 to 15 volts and the battery is 7.2 volt, I would have to run the boat in water to see what the motor is drawing under load, I may get a tad wet trying to keep up with it to read an amp meter, or sink the boat by sitting on it😉 I think the overheat problem was to do with the motor mounting braket covering the front air slots on the motor. However I have a water scoop which I did not fit at the time of building so may retro fit and buy a new motor set up for water cooling, the next question would be where abouts do I fit it?

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
After reading your post Jarvo I went out to the workshop to check if the motor would run, it had got so hot it had melted the solder on the live feed connection so in a way saving it from going right up in smoke, an inline fuse may be a thing in the future, the motor is completely burnt out however the power box is OK. Thank you for the information about the larger motor, I am not sure which is the larger out of the two, I have posted some photos of them both as I am not up to speed with the rating numbers of the motors,maybe you could answer that question. However following up from Scout13 reply, although the cover over the prop shaft connection was in no way restricting air flow, ( I will drill some air flow holes in the cover to be 100% positive on that statement. The motor fixing bracket and the RE540/1 motor recommended for the Sea Commander and sold to me by the model shop, (I was given the other motor by a club member as I was informed it was the better out of the two) looks like the problem, if you look at the photo's you can see that the air flow holes are completely blanked out by the bracket, something I missed when fitting it.

Sea Commander by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 34" Sea Commander Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: 1960's build finished in 2015 first floated 29/10/2017 first motor run outing 5?11/2017 motor burnt out problem solving pending so now in dry dock

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All looking for some advice, A bit of background first, in the early sixties my late father and myself started to build a Sea Commander, when Mother and father separated, he took the model with him, it ended up in the loft of his new residence and stayed there untouched until he asked me to take it just before he passed away in 2000, it then sat in my workshop until I decided to finish it in 2015 after a hip operation, the first time I floated it was last weekend at Coate water in Swindon, I then spent a few hours in the bathroom when the wife was out to get it sorted with lead weights and a smaller battery than the big 12 volt alarm battery I had fitted, so with the 7.2 volt battery fitted I went back to Coate water and tried it out, I removed the weight from the stern and swapped the mid and Bow weights around and it sat just right and motored lovely with a nice Bow wave and a hollow wave at the stern with good rudder response. However after about 10 minutes the motor stopped, I still had rudder control and as it happened the boat was aiming for the jetty so had no problem recovering the boat, the motor however was smoking hot and burnt out. what is the best type of motor to use on one of these boats, photos of the boat and motor fitted and a photo of a spare working motor, thanks in advance. Sorry for writing a book😊

Tools by GARTH Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I know it's a little late but here's my Drumall saw with a rib for the Sea Commander #22 . Its so old I can't find saw blades any more .Got 3 blades left

Paint by GARTH Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Put a little paint on my Sea Commander model to see any problems .The I realized front windows would be hard to install so filled them in . The rear cabin & front cabin tops where very difficult to make them sealed & removable but with a little effort got them on .