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>> Home > Tags > component shop

component shop
component shop
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component shop
sound generators by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
If you want a selection of various engine sounds, plus extra sounds i.e. klaxon,seagulls,winch sounds etc, the best one for the money is by Action electronics👍, part of Component shop. Peter😉

Old Futaba servo wiring... by Ianh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Component Shop Do Servo Testers For Wiring I found this hope it helps

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in. Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else. Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from Action Electronics, sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁 You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson. https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
You might find your wire here at the componentshop style='background-color:yellow;'>componentshop&oq=componentshop&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l4.12080j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 It's worth getting their catalogue. Brilliant service I can really recommend them. Good prices and quality with fast turnaround.

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi John, Yep, I know Component Shop, and the Action Electronics modules inside out👍 Have bought ESC mixers and Asdic pingers from them. Good stuff, and some of it dead easy to duplicate! 😲😁

Spektrum, new, useless... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug those discs will be ideal for the job. Re buying electronic bits and pieces try the Component Shop here in N.Wales Good prices and excellent service. https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>👍

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by Manofkent Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I have built this from the plans as per instructions using the balsa/ply fixing with UHU Hart and it works well and the boat performs well. Had to source fittings etc from many places and those I couldn't (DF cone) I 3d printed. Use a small geared motor from component shop to power the radar scanner.

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Bon chance mon ami👍 Don't know what TX you have but you may be able to do the mixing there. If not there are several separate mixer boards on the market. This one for instance; Action Electronics P40D from Component Shop. It's good for both brushed and brushless motors😊 See pdf data sheet. Mode 1 might be good for Brave Borderer!? https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎

Warped wood by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Vero also from The Component Shop in N.Wales .Order £ 3 or more/of anything/ from them and get a free catalogue. Excellent firm / service. Battery packs made to order if what you want isn't in Catalogue. Just one example of their great service.😋👍

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Seeing the light by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well. I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use. I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. It is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. It says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this. I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape. I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.🤓 Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi TJ, looks OK for a basic starter kit👍 Ron's right I'm also still slightly concerned you might quickly get bored with just throttle and rudder 😲 9X is perhaps overkill at this stage! I use the TGY-i6 for almost everything (except my sub cos 2.4Gig don't like diving!). I bought a bundle of 6ch receivers to go with it for around 8 quid a chunk so I can fit out several models. My expensive Spektrum Dx6 is now gathering dust on the shelf 🤔 Re: Aldiss signal lamp: Have a look at this from component Shop (Action Electronics), description attached. I just bought one to go on my 1936 H class 1:72 destroyer 😉 along with a SONAR pinger! https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Happy building, and even happier sailing, cheers Doug 😎 PS: I don't waste a channel on radar. On my destroyer it is simply switched on by a microswitch underneath 'B' gun turret. Drive is a modified servo fed by a 1.5V alkaline 'C' cell. Lasts for years 😁

Tamiya Tape! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Ron, don't worry👍 I already sent Ed some wiring diagrams with resistor calcs for his LED circuits and links to resistor sources in the US. BTW: I assume you meant Component Shop, or maybe RS Components? Otherwise just 'components' could mean anything / anywhere, especially to Ed who is in USA! Thanks for responding anyway👍 Cheers Doug 😎