Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉
Only way to see if it works is to make a test rig and hold the exciter in place to see what it sounds like. Don't use the glue pads for now just hold in place with light pressure. Radar should be ok weight wise. All batteries should not be charged in a model, ever! They all contain chemicals and if a fault develops or they leak explosive gases the last place they should be is in an enclosed environment. There are high power NiMhs that may be suitable as they can be had in different formations. Component Shop will make up a pack to your specs. If you rush the only thing being spoiled will be the boat!
PS to Chris, Assuming an optimum speaker / transducer, to get more volume you need a more powerful amplifier, more Watts! The little stand-alone boards rarely produce more than 1W. Again check the Component Shop. Also check that your speaker / transducer is rated for the higher power!! If using a traditional speaker with a cone make sure it is a waterproof Mylar cone!!! 'Uvverwise' they can go awful soggy an' droopy 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris
Hi Mark, Deutsche Post is not the arbiter of carrier charges here! In my experience, either way between D and UK, DHL and DPD are the most reliable and quickest with International Tracked and Signed incl. insurance. Latest example was the PT Boat I bought from Basil's dad! All charges including insurance were 14.95 and it arrived in two days!! The value was well over 25 quid and the German customs didn't bat an eyelid. I've bought several items from Component shop and Micron Radio, each order over 25 quid, all came via DHL in a few days with never more than 10 quid P&P, and the German customs never interfered. Royal Mail and UPS are the most expensive, take much longer (ca 5 to 10 days) and are much more finicky about what they will transport. Worse; if they don't like something, e.g Lixx batteries or paints etc, they just destroy it and hard luck mate! 😡 Oh, and Fedex from the States seems to attract unwelcome and expensive attention from customs here 🤔 So if I see 'Origin USA' on FleaBay or Amazon I look elsewhere! (America First!!)? Moral: check which carrier the supplier uses or specify your preferred carrier where possible. Many suppliers offer a choice, found under 'Delivery Information' or similar on their website. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, I know the feeling, but Gently Bentley! 😉 What do you want your sound system to do? there are simple single sound boards e.g for motor sound; diesel, petrol, steam in various types, sirens - operated by a simple servo/micro switch/relay system or full blown programmable modules where you can load your own .WAV format sounds. There are thousands on the electronic spider web! Several years ago I built a CMOS driven relay board so I could operate four functions from one proportional channel: destroyer siren (Whoop Whoop!), smoke, lights, fog horn. Was a home made PCB about 4" square! Nowadays one mini module will do all that and much more; Plug and Play, plus you can load your own sound files from the PC, but is that so satisfying?? Another debate😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS for some inspiration have a look at the Component Shop site under Action Electronics; sound! I've just bought the Asdic sound board for my destroyer; test report follows. 😉
Have been considering this for my Southampton. Don't want tank steering though, since I sail in a Biergarten I need to keep one hand free for the Bierkrug!😉 So I decided to try the Action Electronics P94 dual ESC and rudder mixer all in one module! From Component Shop these days. Can be easily set in one of 4 modes. See pic. NOTE: Brushed motors ONLY!! Not fitted yet, still busy with Sea Scout and PT Boat. The module may yet end up in my Destroyer! Cheers Doug 😎
Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.
I have just received a Deans Marine kit, ST441, a seaplane tender. The plan calls for a Black400 motor with a Bob's board and 6v battery. I would like to use a brushless motor and ESC in the kit. Deans say they have not tried the kit with a brushless motor so cannot recommend an alternative. Any one out there who can suggest what such motor would be the equivilant of the 400 motor. I have one suggestion from the Component Shop, they are always very helpful, but anyone else has any suggestion.
Just repaired a blown fogger unit, reversed battery. Used a Component Shop LM2557 switch mode converter unit running from 12v (max) and giving 1 amp at 24v, plenty for the fogger that requires 300Ma. I may add a small heatsink if the chip gets hot as the fogger has no off switch whilst on the water. There is a simple multiturn pot adjustment to set the required voltage. Fogger now working full pelt and as good as new.