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>> Home > Tags > component shop

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3D sanding discs. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Evenin' Colin, Yep, the Böhler stuff seems to be built like the proverbial 'brick s**t house' 😉 You shouldn't have any import tax / duty to pay as long as UK is still in the EU! Same goes for me ordering stuff the other way round, so I'm stocking up a bit (Component Shop, Deans etc) before Theresa and co screw everything up for us🤔 Cheers Doug 😎 Just a thought: if push comes to shove then for such small items I could order them here and send on by post! Hope it doesn't come to that but you never know with the current crop of politicians, both sides of the Channel! The mess the Germans have made over the last 5 months reminds me of Italy, but then they change governments more often - but much much quicker. More practice I suppose 😉

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Final comment on the switch!! I mentioned above that I prefer to use miniature toggle switches, here is a typical example, good for 3A some versions 5A, plenty enough for the RX and a few servos, and only 12.5 x 7 x 9.5mm, mounting hole 6.6mm. Cost approx 1Euro over here. Available in any good component shop. For the main power I use larger versions often with built in LED indicator, as can be seen in the attached pic of my new Sea Scout installation. Cheers Doug 😎

Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello Doug I very rarely get my boats wet so the self righting will hopefully not be an issue and as I have had the bath taken out of my house the model when complete will not even get the old bath test. I have twin 540's linked to the 40mm three bladed props and as you rightly say experimenting with thee boat on the water will give me the most acceptable set up. Your recommendation of the Component Shop P94 would seem ideal and reading the spec. it answers several other questions, I am not particularly electrically or technically savvy you will have noticed. I must admit I prefer building with wood to plastic and P38, old fashioned, me, of course.😉 Regards Chris G

Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi J. Your motors are nominal voltage 7.2v. Try a single 7.2v 3300 NimH pack, quality from Component Shop. It will be short running time, powering 2 motors but will give you an idea of performance, then you could buy a second, 1 for each motor, if this did not work out or you want more performance then go for brushless motors, still with the 2 battery packs. I would try the single pack first, suck it and see, develop it from there without breaking the bank!!!! Cant see any ESC, have you got 1 or 2? if 1 use a 'Y' lead to connect the second battery. Mark

Voltage step down by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Battery ordered, and a charger, from Component Shop. Thanks for the guidance. Brian.

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

rotating radars off mast by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Seafarer You can buy very small 4 wire stepper motors that will fit. I bought a ruck from China via E-Bay for a few pounds and they work fine. The smallest is less than the size of my little finger nail and I need my scope to see the wires which I sourced from Component Shop at Haydock Show. You do need a stepper motor driver and can control the speed down to single steps with a simple pot. I used an Arduino to test and the program is on the Arduino website. When I get time I might just do a blog showing how. Dave

Blackpool Model Boat Show by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Attended the event again this year. Wow! was impressed. 28 traders 21 clubs according to the brochure. The place was very busy and lots to see lots to buy. Lighting was good, refreshments available in the hotel front lounge. Not just boats but trucks etc in the other room next to main hall. Ian from Component Shop has really turned this event round. Hoylake Model Boat Club have ordered 10 tables for next year and will be attending. If you have been put off in the past give it a go next year. 😊

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.html I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by al2612 Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉