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>> Home > Tags > component shop

component shop
component shop
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component shop
Warped wood by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Vero also from The Component Shop in N.Wales .Order £ 3 or more/of anything/ from them and get a free catalogue. Excellent firm / service. Battery packs made to order if what you want isn't in Catalogue. Just one example of their great service.😋👍

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Seeing the light by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well. I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use. I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. It is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. It says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this. I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape. I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.🤓 Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi TJ, looks OK for a basic starter kit👍 Ron's right I'm also still slightly concerned you might quickly get bored with just throttle and rudder 😲 9X is perhaps overkill at this stage! I use the TGY-i6 for almost everything (except my sub cos 2.4Gig don't like diving!). I bought a bundle of 6ch receivers to go with it for around 8 quid a chunk so I can fit out several models. My expensive Spektrum Dx6 is now gathering dust on the shelf 🤔 Re: Aldiss signal lamp: Have a look at this from component Shop (Action Electronics), description attached. I just bought one to go on my 1936 H class 1:72 destroyer 😉 along with a SONAR pinger! https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Happy building, and even happier sailing, cheers Doug 😎 PS: I don't waste a channel on radar. On my destroyer it is simply switched on by a microswitch underneath 'B' gun turret. Drive is a modified servo fed by a 1.5V alkaline 'C' cell. Lasts for years 😁

Tamiya Tape! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ron, don't worry👍 I already sent Ed some wiring diagrams with resistor calcs for his LED circuits and links to resistor sources in the US. BTW: I assume you meant Component Shop, or maybe RS Components? Otherwise just 'components' could mean anything / anywhere, especially to Ed who is in USA! Thanks for responding anyway👍 Cheers Doug 😎

LiPo batteries by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi MB, don't recommend you use ANY kind of batteries in parallel, esp. LiPos, unless you have a connection / distribution board in between that will stop one battery trying to charge the other. This will happen if the two batteries do not have identical charge levels! Component shop have such a board (from Action Electronics) to do this. Also, you will probably find that, for example, 2 x 2500mAH batts will weigh more than one 5000mAH batt🤔 and be more expensive. Only advantage I can see in using two instead of one is that you can put them either side of the keel to help reduce any rolling tendency. Effect is minimal I think though. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: One per ESC and Motor as Jarvo is doing - Fine. Two in parallel feeding one ESC - not so fine! 😉

3D sanding discs. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Evenin' Colin, Yep, the Böhler stuff seems to be built like the proverbial 'brick s**t house' 😉 You shouldn't have any import tax / duty to pay as long as UK is still in the EU! Same goes for me ordering stuff the other way round, so I'm stocking up a bit (Component Shop, Deans etc) before Theresa and co screw everything up for us🤔 Cheers Doug 😎 Just a thought: if push comes to shove then for such small items I could order them here and send on by post! Hope it doesn't come to that but you never know with the current crop of politicians, both sides of the Channel! The mess the Germans have made over the last 5 months reminds me of Italy, but then they change governments more often - but much much quicker. More practice I suppose 😉

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Final comment on the switch!! I mentioned above that I prefer to use miniature toggle switches, here is a typical example, good for 3A some versions 5A, plenty enough for the RX and a few servos, and only 12.5 x 7 x 9.5mm, mounting hole 6.6mm. Cost approx 1Euro over here. Available in any good component shop. For the main power I use larger versions often with built in LED indicator, as can be seen in the attached pic of my new Sea Scout installation. Cheers Doug 😎

Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
Hello Doug I very rarely get my boats wet so the self righting will hopefully not be an issue and as I have had the bath taken out of my house the model when complete will not even get the old bath test. I have twin 540's linked to the 40mm three bladed props and as you rightly say experimenting with thee boat on the water will give me the most acceptable set up. Your recommendation of the Component Shop P94 would seem ideal and reading the spec. it answers several other questions, I am not particularly electrically or technically savvy you will have noticed. I must admit I prefer building with wood to plastic and P38, old fashioned, me, of course.😉 Regards Chris G

Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi J. Your motors are nominal voltage 7.2v. Try a single 7.2v 3300 NimH pack, quality from Component Shop. It will be short running time, powering 2 motors but will give you an idea of performance, then you could buy a second, 1 for each motor, if this did not work out or you want more performance then go for brushless motors, still with the 2 battery packs. I would try the single pack first, suck it and see, develop it from there without breaking the bank!!!! Cant see any ESC, have you got 1 or 2? if 1 use a 'Y' lead to connect the second battery. Mark

Voltage step down by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.