Almost done pistons & rods. I had to revert to threading the rods into the pistons. Had a disaster with silver soldering them. Holding rod in the lathe turning the piston true to the rod. I had upset the temper, both rods snapped. I had no stainless of that size left. Had to turn down larger diameter. I had a home made traveling steady, so very easy. All other photos taken to day lost in computer somewhere. Take more tomorrow.
Haverlock, I did that, effectively with my printer, which after working well suddenly wasn't talked to by the computer, so I took it out and smashed it to pieces, after carefully removing the plate glass platten to glue wet'n'dry to. But I'd had use out of it. I smashed a leased printing system for old skool graphics at my last job, because the repair man was late. We were 2 floors up, he had to pick the bits up of the tarmac below, but we'd done a lot of prints with it. This apparent, over-rated pile of junk has never done owt, but beedlyboop and one light. How I wish I could afford a grand for a Jeti Duplex, one of the most beautiful pieces of industrial design I have ever seen this side of a Coventry Climax cam cover. Cheers, Martin
Haverlock, I may not know much about electrics, but I do know about battery connections and as it happens, when I used rechargeables, one set fitted and one didn't. There was a tiny difference in diameters, enough to make one set fit and the other not. But the Duracells fitted a treat, but still no flashing from the lights, just a fixed one on the right hand end. Believe me I'd love it to work, but it looks like it is duff. Martin Edited to say:- Nobody locally to ask as there are no model boat clubs within a sensible distance and the aircraft mob would now all be on 18 channel computers. Wouldn't know anything about a 7 year old non pootah!
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? It would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin
looking around on YOUTUBE I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvItY7q9rrE it walks through the bind process to an orange receiver. I do have a planet t7 and 2 bound receivers which I could be persuaded to part with this is no longer in production but is a very simple system to use being none computerised. No idea what they are worth though . If you think your transmitter is complicated have a look at a taranis I spent many (un) happy hours trying to get it to do anything since for any model you need to effectively tell it twice what each function is doing.
Hi Martin, Yes it is a folding mast, quite a few of these type of boats had folding masts. Will have a look at my archives to see if I have any suitable details, it may take about a week as my computer is in the attic, and I'm in the middle of getting ready for the Sunday display at WMBC. At Cob House country park. Cheers Colin.
I think the best advise is not to go mad throwing money away on equipment while your still learning to walk. As a starter i would recommend something like a planet 5 radio or radiolink 2.4ghz and once you are up and running and getting more adventurous in your builds with more and more working features you can then think on upgrading your radio equipment to the more advanced computerised sets. ron
Coronation Park in Crosby, a very very popular venue for all types of model boats back in the 50s and before, hosted tethered hydroplane racing (as Martin has just stated) that was a crowd puller and the old guys in those days had some balls to run them, as I remember there was a bad accident late 50s and it was all over for them. Still going as a model boat club to this day although re-formed several years ago. Martin, yes I will put some pics up as soon as my grandchildren show me how to🤔, you see I may be able to bring a 1950s boat into the 21st century but that doesn't mean I can use a computer as I should😉. Norman. Small foot note guys, steam also is discouraged if not banned by some model boat clubs now because of the pressurised boiler risk, yes I know health and safety gone mad.
Oh Doug, I thought you would understand. I am not denegrating kit builders. I, too, build the occasional kit to save time. No,no, I was denegrating the old boys who don't EVEN kit build, then brag about it, about what it's all cost them. That is what is so bloody pointless to me. Obviously I am grateful for kit builders as that's how I made my living for years, making patterns for kits. But to pay over the odds for a kit and all its bits and then brag about how much it all cost seems to me utterly stupid. Building a kit is a perfectly good way to either save time or gather a collection quickly and just to make my point, I still get a kick out of opening the box on a new kit (Airfix 1/48th scale Lightning for instance) like I did as a kid. I am well aware of the skills of dealing with photoetch, although I doubt I could manage such tiny scales as you mention. I have always done the artwork for my own photo-etch, but now it's all done on computers, so I no longer have any dealings with it. For the kind of inshore craft I have always been a fan of, 1/48th is quite small. Small enough for me anyway. And a year after (is it) I am back with the boats as explained above. I do other things when the weather is not so great. I can't remember what went on a year ago and I have never been bored in my life except when forced to watch television, football, modern pop music or money programmes. I ALWAYS have something to do, I just don't always know much about aspects of it, which is why I come on here and ask. I ain't proud. I was explaining why, for me, model railways is now a no-no and why my wall sign is very much a case of QED. I do wish I could help more people with constructional stuff, that I DO know about to in some way pay back for the help I have recieved from others on topics I find mystifying. If you don't like it, so be it. I'll go again and not return. It's a shame to be what seems to be willfully misunderstood, especially by someone I thought I had a good relationship with. Cheers, Martin
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Hi Peter If you look at this website http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter2... you will see that there are enough incorrect items to drive you mad. I have decided to get it as accurate as the kit allows. I have installed a Graupner 6v smoke generator in each funnel with a computer fan at the base of each - yet to be tested. I propose to switch them on and off with a receiver controlled switch. I would like to be able to colour the smoke but have yet to find the correct formula. Steve
Agree Fred, I have to admit I have a Kindle Fire, but only so I can take a library of Clive Cussler with me on holiday. 😉 Sorry to hear of your HP problems, my last HP computer was an HP85 around 1975! The one with the little built in B/W screen and the Ski game! Since Dave died HP seems to have gone downhill 🤔 For the last 25 years or so I have only used DELL laptops, private and business machines, no problems. The PC I am using now is also a Dell workstation. And No I don't have shares or a franchise😉 There are today some really good notebooks on the market, not much bigger or heavier, than tablets but with much better, i.e. complete, operating systems. Acer for instance. I'm still not convinced by the tablet marketing, lots of promises but in practise not much delivery. And Apple I've never liked, full of stuff I don't need and links to other businesses I certainly don't want! I was an Atari fan in the early days. Glad to hear that some of my waffling has been useful 😊 Greetings from an Old Sea Dog as me old Mum calls me, cheers Doug 😎