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>> Home > Tags > connector

Layout and Limitations (con) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I have just looked at mine and attach a photo. I suggest you mark with red tape the same connector on each exciter in the same way mine is marked. If neither work yours are wired differently so reverse the wires and mark with a dot of red paint. The circuit board is integrated with the rx so you will need to buy electronic switcher units for each auxiliary function. Have you decided what radio you intend to use? Ideally you need a spare channel for each auxiliary, but there are other options that work with lesser channels. Choose the radio and we can advise on the switcher units.

Twin Esc/Mixer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The large protusion will be the heat sinks for the power Mosfets. Looks like a cardboard spacer in between to protect during transit.The case top with slots will fit over the plates to protect. The green screw connections are for the motors. You take the two motor leads and insert into the connectors and tighten the screws. If the motor(s) run in the wrong direction just swop over the leads for the relevant connectors(s). The two black and red wires are for the separate battery supplies. Make sure you connect the red to positive and the black to negative and its is advisable to fit an inline fuse (=

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Ok here we go... forward light example: I took 1 wire from each led and wrapped a small piece of copper wire round them then soldered into one. Then did the same for the others. Then connected to a 9v battery connector using plastic connection block... My son had been doing electrical circuits at school and wanted to help me...

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Mark, you are sooooo right! 👍 That's why after much irritation, toing and froing and soldering with various connectors I settled on the 3 variants I list above for the types of models I build. For the plastic magic weight was the main consideration not current! On some mini models I will probably use direct soldered connection to save the weight of plugs and sockets. Yes, it CAN make a difference in a 15" model😉 From 45 years of electronic engineering I learned- 1 Keep the parts count down to reduce the potential MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures), REF: MIL-STD Handbook 217! 😉 2 Eliminate non-essential components to keep production costs down! I find that these principles apply equally well to model building! I NEVER charge any battery regardless of type in the model! Would be a bit impractical with some of the longer hulls anyway, would block the electrics bench 🤔 Seems the LiPo pack could fit between the prop shafts in the Southampton. Access through the work deck hatch. Pico RX is no problem, biggest item is then the P94 dual ESC/mixer at 74mm. If I remove the original plastic trays this should also go in! Report soon. Oh yeh! Usual problem, what do I do first?? Ta muchy for your interest and advice, much appreciated👍 Cheers and Goodnight from Munch, now 01:45 here, way past my beddie-byes time! Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Doug, now that your bits have arrived, plan your fit out, remember the battery needs to be in a place where it can be easily removed, don't charge in the hull, as for the mini Tamiya plugs, i bought converter plugs from ebay, female to male. RN makes a good point, if you standardise on 1 plug system it is so much easier, i am in the process of changing all my batteries to the XT60 system, Lipo and NiMh, mini Tamiya are good for 10 amps, Tamiya at about 15 amps, XT60, about 60 amps, other plug systems are available, Deans etc, often it is the connectors which cause the problems. Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
BTW: I wouldn't bother with the Tamiya converters, just another potential 'point of failure'. Decide on your 'standard' connector, chop off the wrong one and fit the right one! Have just been faced with the same dilemma; different batteries with different connectors. Have decided as follows:- High current XT60, Medium (~10A max) Tamiya mini, Plastic Magic mini red BEC. ALL gold plated! Cheers Doug 😎

TAMIYA. King George V. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Colin, what scale is it? If you Google 'Plastic Magic' you should get lots of example of this from 350 / 400 scale carriers and battleships down to 72 scale Vosper MTB, KM S100 / E-Boat etc. There are also several Plastic magic articles in Model Boats magazine. The general principles are always the same: lightweight miniaturised electronics incl. servos! Do a max payload test on the bare hull as the very first thing. Weigh the major superstructure assemblies and decks and subtract from max payload: that's what's left for electronics and battery! The kit props are generally useless, no pitch, so make your own out of tinplate or 0.5mm brass. can be a little oversize, no one will know😉 Prop shafts and tubes: 2mm OD / 1mm ID brass tube with 1mm silver steel or piano wire shafts. Couplings from shrink sleeve. will dig out some motor types and sources tomorrow, there are also some given in the Model Boats mag articles. That's where I found the Micron Radio tip😊 Can heartily recommend Micron radio for the smallest combination RX and ESC on one tiny board that I've ever seen! Talk to Andy Rutter, he offers excellent advice and will fit tiny connectors and pre-program the RX board to match what you want to do. He also has very very tiny servos which are ideal.👍 Look under RC components - 'Deltang Ultra micro'. you ain't gonna get no teeny weenier! I went weak today 😲 and ordered a 350 scale Prince of Wales, to match my 350 scale Bismarck, Hood and Ark Royal. Battle of Denmark Straight here we come! Cost a tad more than 25 pence though 🤔 Good luck Doug 😎

On/Off button or Kill Switch by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les, what you have on that switch are JST connectors. Sometimes known as BEC connectors. The RX end will fit your receiver . You can plug it in any free servo socket. Just make sure red is on the middle pin and black towards the outside of the RX case. Then you only need to match the plug on the other side of the switch to your battery, which unfortunately you omitted to show us 🤔 Looks like the receiver has the standard JR type plugs. Cheers Doug 😎

34" Precedent Huntsman by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Great work MUM !!! I moved over to brushless motors three years ago. The power of these things are unbelievable. I have a 46" Crash Tender which is getting a L5055C 700KV motor on a 4S 5800mah Lipo battery via 100Amp Hobbyking car ESC. Prop 2 blade CNC 52mm 1.4 pitch. No loaded RPM 10360 against the 850 at 9778 rpm. NO water cooling on the motor and the car ESC has an electric fan, so at low speed you have no cooling problems. The two motors are about the same size. As for battery connectors I use XT60 which I think are better then the Deans. The ESC's are very easy to setup with the program card. I can post my settings which I use on all my boats. I also have the smaller 34" Precedent Huntsman which I am restoring. Canabus

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks both Doug and Dave I do have a couple of different mounts which were purchased to try and get round my sticky motor which initially proved to the glue holding the shaft had failed causing vibration and the old diesel mount causing misalignment. I have just recently even purchased a plastic type mount like the one you have Doug😉 Should have removed the mount when you suggested it a year ago Dave but a little scared now I can start a fresh. Now thats done and new lease of life should see me busy at the weekend. Little concerned on the hungry and smelly motor but like the idea of a Lipo with Tamiya connector will have a look for those later. Was a little worried about drilling through but like the idea of dowel and sand paper nice and easy I think until I get bored and then probably resort to the drill lol. Thanks for all the advice and the confidence you guys give. Ill update my year old blog with progress over the next couple of weeks.😁😁

what motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight. When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍 "All from Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch" I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!! This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! It needs more than my cabin Cruiser! For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉 I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. In a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper! Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. It comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat! Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!! The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR! The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions; fire monitors, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍 By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King. (You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!) Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)

Tank Steering by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Robbob, Good tip! 👍 Is that the Trainer connector you mean? Will this then also work with the HT6? Since it has 2 sticks =4, two pots =2, four switches =4, Sum 10! Would be useful to have the extra switches for lights and sounds etc. Doug 😎 Update: just looked at the cable, connector looks like the Trainer plug😊 Will investigate further and report in separate thread.

Tank Steering by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All The Turnigy/Flysky iA6 are amazingly good value systems but did you know that they can be upgraded to full 10 channel operation! You will need to buy a new 10 channel RX for about £15: And a cable to go from your computer USB port to the connector on the back of the TX for less than £3: And then the firmware update from this site: There are also some YouTube videos to guide you through the upgrade process. This is one of a number of them on YouTube. I have bought the bits but not got round to doing the upgrade yet but apparently it is a very popular mod that allows you to assign a separate auxiliary channel to each of the switches and knobs. Robbob.

What motor have I got? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good 👍 Especially the end plate with connectors! Are all the dimensions the same? Shaft diameter, Can length / diameter, Weight! 😎