Hi Robbob, Good tip! 👍 Is that the Trainer connector you mean? Will this then also work with the HT6? Since it has 2 sticks =4, two pots =2, four switches =4, Sum 10! Would be useful to have the extra switches for lights and sounds etc. Doug 😎 Update: just looked at the cable, connector looks like the Trainer plug😊 Will investigate further and report in separate thread.
The accepted wisdom is that only one power source should be used to power a receiver from an ESC. I can see where using a separate battery and a BEC would be questionable, but what about using two BEC connectors when using two identical ESCs? The reason for my question is I am powering the Rx off the port motor ESC through its BEC in one of my models. The starboard ESC has the positive BEC wire disconnected. The port ESC failed "ON" today causing my model to go in uncontrollable circles as the failure caused the Rx to shut the starboard ECS down. If both ESC / BECs had been connected could I have retained control of the starboard motor as that ESC was fine?
Well there I was with the Kingfisher motoring along on the pond when it suddenly lost power, nothing??? No forward no reverse. I could give the motor forward and reverse but no reaction. Fortunately the breeze blew the boat into shore along with me using the rudder control. Upon landing and a cursory inspection I saw that the universal nylon had broken off at the metal connection. But, upon the workbench it was discovered the motor mount had come off the hull structure. It was just totally free, it lifted right out of the hull after removing the speed control connectors. Maybe, it is time to replace the geared motor to a direct drive. Any suggestions? I use brushed motors.
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁
[Score: 6/10] 34"/3200g NorStar Wave Princess Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (20Amps) ESC - Comments: Built in 1980s restored and RC fitted 2017. Kit built from ply. Graupner 12" prop, MacGregor Digimac 3 controller with MacGregor MR23A receiver converted to JST connectors and Carson Reflex servo to brass rudder
Hi Sparkman I have the Turnigy IA6 V2 with rpm, voltage and temperature sensors, great setup. The throttle channel is setup for IC planes, so if you require central position for forward and reverse you require opposite . Mode 1 IC throttle on the right is 9114000020-0. Mode 2 IC throttle on the left is 9114000019-0. The correct sensors are voltage 9114000013-0, temperature 9114000013-0 and optical rpm is 9114000026-0. The ones shown on the transmitter page have the wrong connectors and require a special lead. Canabus PS the Flysky IA6 is the same unit, so you tube shows how to setup the sensors.
Yes the battery(s) are all Tamiya connectors...yes I have a basic voltmeter kit...well it's called a digital multimeter and no havent a clue how to use it but thought i'd need one at some stage...battery is charging now so will leave it until this afternoon and pop in here for the next round...if it helps i'm quite happy to ring (mobile) so I can carry out the 'tests' in real time and explain fully what i'm doing....anyway thank you in anticipation - to you both :-)
Hi Nick I am fairly certain your problems are mainly battery related. Do you use the Tamiya (white plug and socket) type battery connector? If so these can make a bad contact which then causes all kinds of unusual problems. We did get a good connection with the ESC working correctly. Subsequently the same set up had no power. This could be a flat battery or a bad connector not making contact. If you push and pull the connector and the set comes to life you have found the problem. Charging the flat battery should get you up and running again. Getting late now so perhaps we can have another attempt tomorrow Cheers dave
Hi Nick, If you really have the R3FS RX then what you say above is wrong! The Bind channel slot is CH3. The Battery connector is the 4th slot. See pic from the so called User Manual. I would first try to Bind the RX without the ESC, then you can forget about BEC or not 😉 For this put the binding link into Ch3 slot and the battery in the fourth slot. Then- 1. Install a charged battery in the TX and switch it off. 2. Insert the Binding Link into the Ch3 channel „BIND“ port of the receiver. 3. Connect the receiver battery to any port of the receiver, (leave the ESC out for now) the red LED starts flashing indicating that the RX is starting the tuning process.. 4. Press and hold the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, and switch it on. 5. Watch the LED on the receiver. If the LED stops flashing, the binding process is successful. This process takes up to 5 sec. 6 Release the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, take out the „BIND“ link. 7. Install the servo for testing, in CH1 or 2. 8. If the test fails, repeat 1 to 7 above. 9. If the test succeeds, remove the RX battery, plug the ESC into slot 2, rudder servo into slot 1. As attached wiring diagram, which assumes an ESC with a BEC. All should now work assuming your batteries are OK and the ESC-BEC is working! If not Go back to step 7; No ESC, RX battery in slot 4, servo in slot 1 or 2. If this works then your ESC (or at least the BEC) is duff! 🤔 Hope this does the trick, at least to find out where the snag is - if any! 😉 Viel Glück! 👍 Doug 😎
Hi Nick If your ESC has a BEC you use the throttle channel and the other channel for the rudder. The ESC can not be plugged into the battery connector as there will be no signal on that connector but all the lights will work as you are providing the correct voltage. The ESC should settle to solid red green. If green is showing this suggests the ESC is not finding a signal. I assume the batteries in the Tx are all ok and all connected in the correct way. If you have another TX/Rx you could check The ESC and Rudder servo to make sure they work OK using that set. Hopefully Doug will decipher the bind process but I would check the above first. The Viper has an on off switch and I assume this is working as you are powering everything. Dave
Hi Dave, yes that's the very one....I'll have to try the battery connector in the 1st channel which is the bind channel....the red led comes on and stays on, the led's on the ESC flash and then it settles to green Nick