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>> Home > Tags > connector

connector
connector
Revell 1/72 Flower Class Corvett by Mikep Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Revell model at stern you see a small servo with micro switch for the Ram whooper sound module. Pic with upper deck on side shows speaker and electronics with 9volt battery power. Moving forward Harbor Models small 6 volt smoker, 3000 nimh 6 volt battery with 2 connectors powers smoker fan and main motor from ESC.

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Actually British people tend to go for "adaptor" for electrical equipment and "adapter" for people, although I have never seen, to my knowledge, the latter used in a body of writing. What I needed and have ordered from Wales, is a Deans male to fit into the battery because I didn't want to change the battery connector for all your excellent reasons, going to a pair of 4mm bullet connectors. Bullets because I have a pack of 10 already and I believe I may have a few more in a box of bits. So I have ordered a Deans male one end of a 50mm length of 12 gauge wire to a male and a female bullet. All the other connectors will be bullets. The bullets on the motor are 2mm diameter and I will keep them as the wires are short and I don't want to fiddle with them, so I have some 2mm females coming, which will go on the ESC motor wires. 4MM bullets on the ESC to fit the new adaptor and we're there. The ESC already has a receiver plug fitted. Thanks for the link. They look like a good source for the future. Now Giant Cod has gone, where would be a good place for cheap brushlesses? Cheers, Martin

Got the bits, now what?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Martin, spell it right and Lo and Behold 74 results! https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=adap... Personally, it's so easy I make my own, or swap connectors on one side. I would have used the other half of the Deans and not put bullets on a battery - too awkward to get on and especially off with risk of damage to the model when it gives way! I'm not surprised there wasn't such an adapter. Cheers, Doug BTW; I strongly suspect that the bullets on your motor are 3.5mm, jus as they are on all mine, buy a few 3.5mil spare sockets in case you buy another ESC with open wires.

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Jim, it's a 3S Overlander which my local model shop are doing a deal on. I don't know what XT 60 is or EC3/5. I have no Deans connectors. All I have a re the 10 pairs of 4mm bullets with black and red heat shrink. I had found an adaptor from 4mm bullet to Deans male, but it's a slow boat from China by the end of November and I ain't that patient! So bullets all round, I guess. Cheers, Martin

Got the bits, now what?... by jimdogge Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi westquay. that looks like a 2200 3 sel battery if it is and it has a black deans connector on it (they are usually yellow) in my opinion they are the best. XT60 if it is put a male xt 60 on the battery side of the esc and your own chosen bullet connectors on the esc to motor. I like to use ec3 or ec5 (depending on current draw) with a different coloured heat shrink seal, on each one. it helps if you need to reverse the the rotation of the motor. Take a look on line at the way the electric flyboys link it all together you will also get an idea of the connctions. Hope this helps. jimdogge

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
OK, I bought a LiPo tother day and some connectors. This is now what I have.....a motor with little (2mm?) connectors on its wires, a 60Amp ESC with no connectors at all and an Overlander battery with a square plug on the end (Deans, is it) I also have a packet of ten 4mm bullets and heat shrink. What now? Cut the Deans connector off the battery and replace with bullets, or buy a Deans connector for the ESC to battery? Cut off the little bullets on the motor and replace with the big ones which I should put on the ESC, too? I suppose I'll have to increase the size of the hole in the ally heat plate next to the motor to accommodate the bigger bullets. Cheers, Martin

Launch ELAINE, by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
And what a capacitor. Big enough to have come from a washing machine of that period. Maybe it did. The whole thing looks like a lashup. Used whatever would work.I had loads of old valves but noone wanted them so dumped them. Some of them were More modern ones to replace the DCC90 but 1/3 or less the size. Those relays look like the old G.P.O. type. We got them from a Gov't surplus shop for buttons. Those were the days. Sometimes we added in an R.A.F r/f amplifier without the case. It increased the range but don't ask me now how we wired them in. There were 4 connection points on the casing which accepted a multi-plug connector secured by a threaded ring. Nice bit of kit til we got our hands on them.😁

HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 26"/1400g HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 15mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators:  Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Howdy Ed, Yep, will do. Have taken some pics along the way. Mast lights and searchlight are working. Red/Green Nav lights fitted (had to spray the roof the right colour first - white not grey!) but not wired up yet. About to do that now. After that the two aft facing Towing lights and deck flood lights. Also discovered that there should be two deck lights P&S of the main cabin😉 Will need the miniscule chip LEDs for those - Now, where did I put my microscope🤓🤔 In fact while researching I found there's a whole list of 'bits' missing. Not least the Life Raft, which should be behind the wheelhouse!!😲 (In God we trust - But just in case we want a Life Raft 😁) Have also started drafting new decals with the correct owner's logo and fonts. The wiring is only a lash up at the moment to check that everything works. As soon as I'm happy, with resistors an' all, I'll fit some mini connectors. More soon, (in a different thread cos this will bore the pants off Martin. A NO Lights Man!) That reminds me of a banner I once saw above the RAF Controllers at the London Air Traffic Control Centre. "RAF controllers do it in the dark" 😲😉 The civil side was brightly lit, other side of the wall the RAF guys had minimal desk lighting only. Cheers, Doug 😎

Painted outside by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Finish painting and adding some stickers, and a couple of pictures of the real thing. Fitted Motor in a water cooled jacket and motor mount. The motor is a 3650 and is rated as 3060kv Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector Net Weight: 181g Servo fitted sideways via rubber bellows to external rudder fixed to transom.

Old Futaba servo wiring... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Just for the record Sanwa Rx s are reversed too-----------Logically BTW Who makes the best type of crimping pliers for JST type connector terminals? All thoughts considered. Oh yes get a servo tester. Dirt cheap from about £2:50 on the likes of Bang Good, E Bay,Amazon. Really worth Having.👍

Useful Tools & their sources by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Prompted by Onetenor's diligence in scouring the net for tools which may help us build our masterpieces! 'BRAVO ZULU that man'!👍 Last of John's discoveries, carried over from NPJ's 'Leaking Boat' 😲 "Would this be any good for RC wiring--https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Cr... or this one--https://www.banggood.com/New-Multifunctional-Automatic-Wire-... If not any suggestions?" My first impressions- Link #1 Great, IF you do a lot of LAN cable stripping for RJ45 connectors and the like. Overkill for us? Link #2 OK, but still a little overkill but the price ain't bad. Pic shows the wire stripper I've been happily using for 30 odd years. (Some years were VERY odd😁) adjustable for all wire gauges; squeeze, twist & pull and you're good to go! The pic shows the four tools I use (plus soldering iron of course) for all my 'Lectrickery' and LED Magic etc. Not one is less than 38 years old (neither am I by a very long chalk🤔) Cheers, All, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by astromorg Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Interesting, valuable photos and drawings. More like that would be welcomed by many of us. As it would have been illegal not to have a stern light on vessels like these, for both normal passage and also when towing, perhaps that photo without one was during build before it was fitted? No draft marks either. The photo of 93 secured at Vospers (therefore probably before acceptance) shows the stern light while the early type fire monitors also show the date of the photo was early on. I also note one drawing shows the breach hose connectors aft of the cockpit that indicate it to be of later than original build. Similarly the cockpit roof cleats have been re-positioned athwartships rather than the original two being fore-and-aft. Considering their short operational life, it's surprising how many detail changes were made when all the available documentary evidence is studied! You'd think that after 60+ years all the answers would be known for sure by now!

Sea Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

Air screw driven hydro by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Don't do it! Use a river or a public lake. We HAVE to middle finger the arseoles who would have us using electrics as a matter of course. Rivers and canals can be used with ease as the real thing is already dirtying up the water, which, of course, the wild life are well used to. As an air boat would never be used that much anyway, keep it for when you travel to a river. Keep the electrickery for the Jobswuffs. AM 15 is a great little motor. I used to have one. Alweays started easily. Trouble is these days the fuel ain't exactly cheap, but then, neither is a brushless motor, Li-Pos, special charger, watt meter, battery condition meter, special wires and connectors, and of course special ESC which will almost certainly burn out like they all seem to eventually. Failing that put it on the shelf and await interested questions! Martin