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>> Home > Tags > connector

connector
connector
Painted outside by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
Finish painting and adding some stickers, and a couple of pictures of the real thing. Fitted Motor in a water cooled jacket and motor mount. The motor is a 3650 and is rated as 3060kv Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector Net Weight: 181g Servo fitted sideways via rubber bellows to external rudder fixed to transom.

Old Futaba servo wiring... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Just for the record Sanwa Rx s are reversed too-----------Logically BTW Who makes the best type of crimping pliers for JST type connector terminals? All thoughts considered. Oh yes get a servo tester. Dirt cheap from about £2:50 on the likes of Bang Good, E Bay,Amazon. Really worth Having.👍

Useful Tools & their sources by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Prompted by Onetenor's diligence in scouring the net for tools which may help us build our masterpieces! 'BRAVO ZULU that man'!👍 Last of John's discoveries, carried over from NPJ's 'Leaking Boat' 😲 "Would this be any good for RC wiring--https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Cr... or this one--https://www.banggood.com/New-Multifunctional-Automatic-Wire-... If not any suggestions?" My first impressions- Link #1 Great, IF you do a lot of LAN cable stripping for RJ45 connectors and the like. Overkill for us? Link #2 OK, but still a little overkill but the price ain't bad. Pic shows the wire stripper I've been happily using for 30 odd years. (Some years were VERY odd😁) adjustable for all wire gauges; squeeze, twist & pull and you're good to go! The pic shows the four tools I use (plus soldering iron of course) for all my 'Lectrickery' and LED Magic etc. Not one is less than 38 years old (neither am I by a very long chalk🤔) Cheers, All, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by astromorg Seaman   Posted: 14 days ago
Interesting, valuable photos and drawings. More like that would be welcomed by many of us. As it would have been illegal not to have a stern light on vessels like these, for both normal passage and also when towing, perhaps that photo without one was during build before it was fitted? No draft marks either. The photo of 93 secured at Vospers (therefore probably before acceptance) shows the stern light while the early type fire monitors also show the date of the photo was early on. I also note one drawing shows the breach hose connectors aft of the cockpit that indicate it to be of later than original build. Similarly the cockpit roof cleats have been re-positioned athwartships rather than the original two being fore-and-aft. Considering their short operational life, it's surprising how many detail changes were made when all the available documentary evidence is studied! You'd think that after 60+ years all the answers would be known for sure by now!

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

Air screw driven hydro by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Don't do it! Use a river or a public lake. We HAVE to middle finger the arseoles who would have us using electrics as a matter of course. Rivers and canals can be used with ease as the real thing is already dirtying up the water, which, of course, the wild life are well used to. As an air boat would never be used that much anyway, keep it for when you travel to a river. Keep the electrickery for the Jobswuffs. AM 15 is a great little motor. I used to have one. Alweays started easily. Trouble is these days the fuel ain't exactly cheap, but then, neither is a brushless motor, Li-Pos, special charger, watt meter, battery condition meter, special wires and connectors, and of course special ESC which will almost certainly burn out like they all seem to eventually. Failing that put it on the shelf and await interested questions! Martin

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Boards # 2 and 3 built, inspected and tested today. All work fine with my Target. The one with the black and green wires is the prototype. Not so tidy as the other two but it works! As usual going from development prototype to 'production version' several layout improvements occurred to me 😉 Do you want the ESC leads with bullet connectors as well? Or the natty little plastic boxes? Don't know how or why any more but I've got loads of those little boxes!😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

Frozen TV screen by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
O.K. Fixed it. Waggled aerial connector

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Pete, Not AWOL at all, haven't noticed that you were AWOL before either!) The connectors are an excellent idea, as already briefly discussed. Don't use the wrapping wire for the Smoker though. That wire is only good for about 500mA and the smoker probably takes more. The lighting mods you want are possible, so hang on with the connectors until I've got the 'How' finished! Cos some of the lighting wires will be diverted through a new distribution board with the appropriate resistors, as we also discussed. Will do my best to get the instructions finished tomorrow. Cheers, Doug

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake. Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house. This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires. The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump. What do you think? If you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense. Or am I AWOL from reality...again? Thanks, Pete

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
an adjustable spanner holds XT connectors and I suspect you have one to hand!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' John (aka Sleepless in Unknown, UK, 😉) That's exactly the jig I found recently for the batch of XT connectors I bought when I finally went LiPo (better than NUTS!). Ref. your 'wall wart' (horrible expression, must have come from our 'colonial brothers. Sorry Ed!)- If the resistor burnt out I'd be very surprised if the rectifier wasn't also damaged. Check the voltage with your multimeter in both AC and DC ranges and let me know the results. Also give me the data of the 'wart'. Input voltage, W or VA rating, output voltage and current. Should all be embossed on the thing somewhere. Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I thought they all had to be cycled to keep any charge in 'em. What do I know? All my batteries have died...Lead acids, Nimhs (except for the new ones for the testing of the Spektrum). I hate bloody batteries. I don't use my stuff often enough to keep them working. Such as all Winter. Basically from September to May all boating is on hold. So batteries get left. I now have a Digital radio which uses 4 AAs, but they get charged in a wall wart, no packs of them and no fancy connectors, so that still leaves out the NiMhs. I suppose all you can do is run a motor or something. Maybe a light bulb. Then recharge. What a faff. I wasn't cut out for working models. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Martin, You don't need to cycle LiPos !!! Play 'silly buggers' with it and you might bugger it! 😡 Just use it normally and charge it when the red lamp appears on the TX front indicating low voltage. Keep an eye on it and unplug the USB charger lead as soon as the LED turns to green. You could also use your Capacity Tester to check the LiPo status, IF it will connect to it. Sounds like it has a very non-standard plug? Pic? The cycling is for NiMH batts to minimise the memory effect. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Just checked the manual and saw the battery connector! You can forget connecting the battery to any other charger or the Tester 🤔

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I guess the imax would, Haverlock, but for the fact that the LiPo in the Tx. has it's own built in connectors on the end of the case which connect with four sprung thingies in the Tx.'s battery box, so I suppose it has to be charged in situ, like a 'phone or a screwdriver/drill. I'll have to just play silly buggers with it to cycle it. Martin