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>> Home > Tags > connector

connector
connector
Genesis 9000 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Peter very unusual problem with the switch😲 You could temporarily replace it with a bullet connector to continue trials. Glue one end down so that you can quickly unplug the battery one handed. OR: simply short circuit the switch and use the fuse as the 'switch'!? Boat looks a little heavy / tail heavy? Maybe shift some weight a little forward to give more stability? Happy trialling, cheers Doug 😎

Proboat Impulse 31 by Flack Admiral   Posted: 28 days ago
Used Proboat "Impulse 31" in good condition. Deep "V" ready to run speedboat capable of 45+mph 1750kv 4 pole water cooled brushless motor Dynamite 120amp water cooled electronic speed controller Flex shaft drive system Offset rudder set up Use with dual LiPO's with EC5 connectors (batteries not supplied) 2.4Ghz upgraded Spektrum DX4C transmitter and SR210 receiver. Length 31 inches (787mm) Beam 9 inches (229mm) Height 3.66 inches (93mm) £200 plus p&p

boiler by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in. The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock. With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But the connector angled, to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft. If that makes sense.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I think you're right Donnie, a renovation is often more difficult and time consuming than a new build! That's good to hear about the E-Z connectors, do you have a link to an On-line shop by any chance? BTW: saw your post about Krampus' sailing area, actually I wanted to be there as well but my boat ain't ready yet 😭 attached a few pics of my 'Home Port' in Munich, 3rd pic shows the corner where I sail from, right next to the Biergarten😋, cheers Doug😎

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug,my thoughts are that a renovation is as close to a build you can get.It's done with love.We can still buy E-Z connectors here in Toronto.Let me know when you need some.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Donnie, much appreciated👍 😊 Not so much a build as a renovation but she's not doin' so bad for 55! Spent the last coupla days cutting and trimming 3 of the 5 windows out of 3mm perspex, not as simple as I'd imagined - but that's another update 😉 Like to think that Dad's lookin' down and approves. BTW: can you still buy the E-Z connectors? Still have a few but would be good to know where to get some more. Cheers Doug 😎

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
E-Z connectors are the way to go.I use them all the time.Adjustments are easy to do.You don't have to pull everything apart.I really like the way your build is going.Finish is excellent.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊

Esc’s, rudder servo etc by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
A few more little odds n ends done today. Rudder servo box and servo installed, all pushrods fitted and centred. ESC's have been installed along side the motors, hooked up to Rx and rotating the right way. I soldered up a Y-Lead with XT60 connectors to connect both ESC's to one LiPo, red wire removed on 1 ESC as would be done with twin aircraft setup. Just the battery tray to make and install and configure a Mtroniks W-Tail unit so that motors and rudders are sinc when turn inputs made. Last job of the day was to fit the numbering on the rear cabin that came via eBay in da post today.

Interceptor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g Interceptor Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2958 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown 200A (100Amps) ESC - Comments: Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval It was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi MB, can only say what I have which works and I ain't set the house on fire yet 😉 Not surprisingly for someone living in Munich both mine are from German companies! Robbe Power peak Uni 7 and Graupner Unimat 14. There are later versions of both around nowadays but you can still find these on Amazon / Ebay etc. Both of them have automated programmes for various Lithium types, NiMH / NiCad (not recommended these days!) and SLAs. Robbe is now defunct and their Marine stuff taken over by Graupner and marketed as RoMarin! Pics also show the Balancer Adaptor Boards, necessary to connect the balancer cable of the battery. This ensures that each cell is equally charged 😊 I also included in the pics the little battery Capacity Testers I use. They cost around a tenner and are very useful for checking the capacity before a run or charging, as well as the voltage and capacity of each cell, which gives an indication of the battery condition. I found some duff cells with the tester in a few batteries I'd only just bought 😡 When looking for / buying a charger look also for a LiPo Safe bag to charge them in. E.g. LiPo Guard. Charger may cost 50 quid upwards depending on how many charging outlets you want and how many Bells & Whistles. But I get on well with these two 😉 I like the Robbe version cos I can charge two LiPos at the same time. Also in the pics are a few of the charging cables I made up with gold 4mm bullet plugs for the charger end and Tamiya and BEC (for my Plastic magic stuff!) at the batt end. Such adaptor cables are also available 'ready made' but I just like fiddlin' 😊 Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 Nearly forgot! Can't say for sure what current your motor will draw cos I don't know all the other details, but a 40" boat will need some shove! So I wouldn't go below the 5000mAH if you want a half decent run time. A 40" boat can carry a bit of weight! And batt power is more useful than pure ballast 😉 Recommend a little Wattmeter to check the max current draw - see last pic. Basic theory! A fully charged 5000mAh (or 5AH) batt can theoretically deliver 5A for one hour, or 10A for half an hour and so on! Say your set up draws 20A with the 'pedal to the metal' then a 5000mAH batt will 'theoretically' last 15 minutes. Theoretically cos other factors are in play; initial charge state, temperature, internal resistance of the cells, cable losses etc. The latter is why I only use gold connectors! The higher the batt capacity the higher the price and weight. So suggest you start with the 5000 and see how (long) it goes. Then check the weights of higher capacity batts (and the bank account / management approval😉) Bon chance mon ami!

Cabin roof mechanism by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
There are a couple more struts to add to the movable part and hopefully the skins will stiffen everything up how ever I've not yet decided if the skins need to be stronger than the supplied ply ones As for the electrical supply, tests to be carried out on multi plug connector but this depends on how many lights I have and if I want them independent of each other or I could use the lifting arm as they are brass and could be wired neatly at each pivot plate however this would only supply a common + and - supply, we will see.

Cabin roof mechanism by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
That's a very clever design and we'll executed. Two concerns, the finished roof might be a little fragile and easily knocked, trust me, it happens 😱, particularly with the mast in place and the 'pantagraph' motion knocked out of alignment. Also, if you are doing working lighting for the mast, front and side nav lights and searchlight, how will you articulate the wiring to them neatly? Perhaps a self locating, on closure, multi pin connector? I'm sure you have already considered these points so I'll be interested to see how you engineer them. Keep up the great work 👍. Robbob.

New drive Train and Oiler by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😡 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.😉 To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😡 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crème Brûlée!! So do I, delicious 😜😉 The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. Ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? 😁 Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!

Pilot House! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good progress👍 Sounds familiar with the clear ABS. Or Perspex as we know it. Tell me about it with the ordering🤔 I just used a 10% discount coupon and then realised I had forgotten some connectors 😡