Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
February 2019: 7 people
January 2019: 16 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 10 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (22)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > connector

connector
connector
Uploading pics by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Frequently the camera has a 'micro USB' connector on it. If you plug a lead into that (should have come with the camera, or buy one on EBay) and connect that to your computer you will probably see an extra drive - which will be the camera, and on this will be your pictures. If you tell us the name/model of the camera, we can easily find the manual on the web. This will give you all the information you need about loading pictures from it....

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by RonW Petty Officer   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Peter. I have spoken to Cornwall Model Boats and they advised me that to run 2 engines from one ESC, you should set up and get one engine running, then separately the second one and then join them together by means of a Y Connector. I have done this and now have both engines running together. I don't need them to run individually. Steering will be done by Rudders. Best Wishes. Ron👍😁

Can't stop adding stuff by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Joe, look forward to that. Been looking at some commercial ones but they're **** expensive and some are too tall to fit in some of my ships. I have several of those small 5V computer fans in my stash, saved from obsolete PCs. I always saved the fans and the PSUs and various cables. The ribbon cables and various connectors can come in very handy, esp. in smaller vessels 😉Also have plastic, alu and brass tubes of various gauges up to 10mm. About to experiment with some small ones for model railways. Will have to build box and fan etc round them. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS No sea trials here either, everything frozen for weeks 🤔

New knee, outdoor trials begin. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hey Colin, I've got a staple remover 😉 you could nip over here, I'll whip the staples out and you can take the Supermarine back with you! 😁😁 Seriously though folks🤓; Great news Colin, esp. after all this time and pain 👍 Very happy for you 😊 Wasn't kidding about the motor. I'll be updating the 'Resurrection' blog soon. Attached are a few preview pics of the final tests run at the weekend. She's chuntering along at 11.1V (equivalent to a 3S LiPo) drawing about 1.3A off load. I've made up a set of connecting leads and set it up to run ahead with an RH prop as requested. I've assumed your ESC will have bullet connectors!? FF I've added a Red/Green LED to indicate if it should be running forwards (clockwise) or backwards. BTW: I wouldn't recommend full astern on any more than 7.4/8.6V, she don't like it 😱 Shall I put it in that natty plastic box? Or will you just screw it to a wooden frame? All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hey Dodgy, thanks for the idea number 3, I will surely try that! And I hope this will work insha allah! And those links will be very helpful. I hope those silicone are strong 💪💪

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by TheBlacksmith Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
The couplings you appear to have are noisy as they are built to rather generous tolerances but if you can find a piece of rubber of a sufficient diameter you can cut a narrow band and put it on the coupling at the point where the pins are. I used this method on my converted Southampton and it is still going well with a much, much reduced noise level

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
1 - I concur with figtree7nts. You don't want a long length of unsupported floppy tube transmitting power. You will see that my illustrations show the unsupported tube to be very short. 2 - You also want thick tube to transmit power. if you have thin 2-3mm tube that will easily kink. I make my own connectors at the ends of each shaft to bring the internal tube diameter up to about 6-8mm. 3 - If you want to try a quick fix for what you have, I would suggest putting a small piece of wood or plastic inside the unsupported section of your tube, which will stop it collapsing when it is twisted. This may work if the torque is not high. And it's a quick, cheap thing to try. 4 - if you want to try making your own, you could get something like this - check the correct shaft size - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Hexagon-Flexible-Coupling-C... or this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coupling-Inserts-for-RC-Models-Va... and then buy a length of something like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Food-Grade-Clear-Translucent-S... checking the diameters that you need, of course... Here is a similar Eezebilt to your craft. It's the OSA Missile boat. You can see that the unsupported length of silicone is short, and this boat at 32 inches takes quite a lot of power...

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thank you Ed! I will try better this time. This helped me a lòt, learned some great stuffs. I will show you when I do that!

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Sakibian, Why don't you push the motors closer to the shafts! Maybe this will help with the misalignment of the shafts! Or even try to move the motors so they do align! Cheers, Ed

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thank you dodgy!! I needed this. I was always telling myself that a slight misalignment is okay bcz I'm going to use flexible coupler, so it's okay. There I might have done something wrong! Can you please give me the link,of that silicone tube that your using? Or I mean what kind of tube they are, where they are used😊 And yes I ment a lot vibrations by earthquake. Sorry for that. At first I used some thin silicone tubes also, they weren't great.🤐

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
This is the boat I was trying to finish, Ed! I'm not very accurate at these so I face this problems. I'm quite young so when I build, I do hurry sometimes. I think this is my biggest fault when I do modeling. The motor shaft is 2mm and the drive shaft is 3mm. Thank you for the link ! Can you help me a bit more to know which size they Are? I can't find anything about the hole size they are having🤔

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks DodgyGeezer, That was Coupler was what I was looking for. As a recommendation to Sakibian! But couldn't find it! Sakibian, Should deffinately use a coupler like that! Cheers, Ed

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
I'm not sure what you mean by 'earthquakes' - do you mean there was lots of vibration? The prop-shaft and the motor shaft should be aligned as precisely as you can manage. Though a universal joint will accept some misalignment, you should aim to get things so precise that there is no need for a joint! That tube looks rather thin. I use tube which is 10-12mm in OD, with about 3-4 mm thick walls. You are correct that I 'make the shafts larger' by putting little knurled knobs made from aluminium bar on them. If you do not have a lathe, you can buy similar couplings like this: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Robbe-Flexible...

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Sakibian, Why can't you use couplings from Cornwall Model Boats! https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Universal-Join... Maybe you can take a picture of your project to show us. What you are working on! I think the shaft should be close to the motor. Or the rubber hose will tear! Try looking for plastic tubing. Of the diameter you need! Or harder rubber tubing.... Regards, Ed

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Are those fuel pipe? And you must have used something to make the motor shaft thick so it matches the tube, right ? I had these but no fun. They are like earthquakes