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>> Home > Tags > connector

connector
connector
Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
NJP. you can use the mini blade fuses, no problem, the difference is price, standard fuses are about half the price if mini's. Apart from your mounted fuse holders, why not just use crimp spade connectors??? get the right size for the blades no need for a holder or mounting Mark

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
Thanks chaps at a rough estimate and using the keel as the straight edge it is about correct for the electric motor. new cables and connectors along with a couple of mini servo's, arriving tomorrow, which I intend to rig up to operate some micro switches for lights and the like, cheaper than pukka switches. Jarvo and pmdevlin, when I can get the boat to water I will take some photo's and maybe a video with the battery's in the rudder compartment and also in the compartment just rear of the motor to see what you both think.

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les If you are happy with this connector and your other equipment uses this type I would leave well alone. If you do decide to change then I agree XT60 or Deans are common. Does mean you will need to change all the connectors on your equipment or get converters. Not sure I agree with keeping Lipos at above storage charge for any length of time. I have had several of mine balloon before I knew better and I was using them every week. I suspect high temperature may be a factor but that's just my opinion. I now make sure any batteries I have charged are used even for a short time just to drop them from full charge. I use the air boat on the bench. I do agree you should use a storage charge if you are unsure when you may use them again.

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
if you can it may be better to cut off the original connectors and solder new XT60 connectors. They are not expensive and will make getting new batteries way easier. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20Pcs-10Pairs-XT60-Male-Female-Bu...

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Motor fitted to platform and luckily there was enough depth to screw the motor platform to the stringers, I have moved the reciever forward to where it was and resecured the powerbox in a better position, just the leads with the bullet connectors from the motor to fit, although I have fitted the sealed lead acid 12 volt battery instead of the lead ballast (same weight) I have left the7.2v in situ as I trimmed the boat with them in and will see how it goes, it may have too much power on 12 volt and at least if my finger on the stick lacks control on the speed, I can slow things down by swapping over to the 7.2v batteries. If and when the sailing side is sorted, after seeing the pictures of members boats and ships, I think I will give it a good rub down and respray and smarten the inside up as well. Eventually I will get on with the Lloydsman

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les, NONE of the above! It's an EC3 connector. If you are going for hi speed hi amps I would recommend you swap both sides for XT60 or Deans connectors. Pic shows an EC3 (blue) to Deans/XT (red) adapter so you know what they look like. You may find it easier to find batteries with the XT connector. Cheers Doug 😎

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Les-Forbes Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks again Dave. Keeping with this same battery, can you tell me please if this battery has a JST, DEANS STYLE, MINI-TAMIYA, or a XT60 connector.

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John Thanks for the pics. I see you are using Tamiya connectors. My experience is that they are unreliable and not suitable for currents above about 5amps. You appear to have the battery wired to both ESCs though one socket. As your problem occurs when both ESCs are connected I suspect the connectors are the culprits as they work then fail fairly quickly. Easily checked by using two separate batteries. If this is the problem I would hard wire the two ESCs to a chocolate screw block with just one socket for the battery. You might also want to consider a fuse in the positive wire to the battery. There are two switches, what are they switching and what type of switch? I can see the Y lead has one red wire taped up so assume power is from one of the ESCs? Where do you put the rx when the top is on? Hope you manage to move forward tomorrow. Dave

Motor problem by canabus Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi I use a Turnigy 180Amp watt meter and power analyzer(part No.9598000004-0) 0-60 volts , size 85 x 42 x 25mm, 82 grams. Requires your battery connectors. Use it in line with the main battery on board the boat. We used it on my mate's Spearfish and got 72.88 Amps on a brushless motor at 37 KPH. Canabus

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John, can you please define 'sometimes' more precisely ? For example; At the beginning of a run yes? -> After some minutes running no? Or right from the start sometimes yes, sometimes not? Under what circumstances do you have no control? What is the current setup? TX and RX make & model? Motors? ESCs, still Vipers, TIO version? BEC or not? Power source? Charge status? Re Dave's comment: can only highly recommend the exclusive use of gold connectors only (regardless of type) between ESC and motor. And on the battery as well.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
This is sounding more and more like interference and low voltage. Can you post a few pics of your setup, showing all the wiring, motors, ESCs, Rx and battery. Are you using Tamiya connectors by any chance? Also are all your connections good - no green verdigris on any?

changing connectors on ESC or motor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris I suspect the warning came with pre wired ESCs, where changing the connectors can sometimes invalidate the Guarantee. If your brushless connectors are the wrong size or type you may have no option but the cut off and fit the correct ones, unless you can change the connectors on the ESC. If you don't want to alter either then you could make a very short conversion lead with the relevant connectors at each end.The length should be kept as short as possible to avoid the chance of introducing any timing issues. Replacing connectors should not cause any problem if you cut and replace very close to the original connectors.

changing connectors on ESC or motor by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris, there is no problem replacing the connectors. Just buy top quality, possibly gold plated type for good contact. Make sure that they are soldered and heat shrinked insulation applied. DONOT crimp the leads this can cause resistance in the connector. Lipo's will produce a lot of power so melt downs do occur. There is quite a discussion on the forum about soldering connectors, have a read and order the right size, either replace both ESC and motor with matched or match to the larger size, (bigger contact area) Regards Mark