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>> Home > Tags > cooling

Red Cat hydroplane by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi, thanks for the info👍 I'm new to BLs, but learning fast, and your experience confirms my growing suspicions that outrunners not only deliver more torque than inrunners (size for size) but that they are also more reliable and seldom need water cooling. Your new motor seems to be a larger diameter 58mm?, as opposed to 31mm for the old one, so I begin to wonder if the old ones were simply overloaded by a big prop causing them to draw more and more current and hence cook! 😡😭 Check out this test drive (Italian)of your new type motor!! cheers Doug 😎 PS Caption says that with more than 3/4 throttle the boat becomes unstable! Then it flips 🤔

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi. It is a scale model of a sponsord jet turbine powered hydroplane. I think this livery was from 2009. They can be seen racing on Youtube .As for the burning out motors that is sorted. Nothing to do with my cooling system but the unit I had from Hobby King seems to have a number of complaints about them burning out. So replaced it with a different model. HK have been very good and replaced all 3 failures. I will keep the latest replacement for another boat.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Yep! KISS; Keep It Stupid & Simple!! 😎 Most of my ships have twin or more screws so I need the brackets. But not on my single screw Sea Scout or fish cutter. 😉 Only ever had a water scoop to supply a pump for a fire monitor experiment. Mostly used to keep little boys fingers at a distance 😁 Up to now have never needed water cooling, at most a fan (ex PC processor fan) for the ESC. Cheers Doug 😎

34" Precedent Huntsman by canabus Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Great work MUM !!! I moved over to brushless motors three years ago. The power of these things are unbelievable. I have a 46" Crash Tender which is getting a L5055C 700KV motor on a 4S 5800mah Lipo battery via 100Amp Hobbyking car ESC. Prop 2 blade CNC 52mm 1.4 pitch. No loaded RPM 10360 against the 850 at 9778 rpm. NO water cooling on the motor and the car ESC has an electric fan, so at low speed you have no cooling problems. The two motors are about the same size. As for battery connectors I use XT60 which I think are better then the Deans. The ESC's are very easy to setup with the program card. I can post my settings which I use on all my boats. I also have the smaller 34" Precedent Huntsman which I am restoring. Canabus

Vosper 46ins. Crash Tender by RUPERT Apprentice   Posted: 17 days ago
Hello Having just added my name to the Model Boat website I have under construction the 46ins. crash tender. Am about to add the brushless motor and propshaft this seems ok but working out what servo ,the wiring is more tricky also cooling for the speed controller, would this be better pumped through rather than scooped up? Any advice or suggestions would be most helpful.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Agreed👍 I had forgotten to ask if he really needs the water scoop; i.e. for water cooling motor and/or ESC. Or for the Fire Monitor ?? If not; get rid of it! Like the 'cocktail stick alignment aid' 👍👍 Good luck Neil, cheers Doug 😎

Tamar motor help by alan50 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all Just got around to start building a Modelslipway 1/16 Tamar . This being my first model boat and RC I am at a loss to what motors to fit . I would prefer to install conventional brushed motors ,but the ones recommended a few years ago 600 eco are no longer available Would be grateful for any proven recommendations ,or any easy setup using brushless without cooling . Trying to keep it simple and not too expensive Thanks in advance for any comments .

Trumpeter Seawolf Conversion by haleskevin Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I have seen this done a few times online and figured it would be a quick turn around; I was wrong. Every time I think I have it licked, another problem arises. I am at two pumps, one motor, two micro switches and three servos. I do not have batteries or cooling for the motor figured out. But when I get tired of my scratch builds I go back to this. I did my math and six vessels await my attention plus these two fine examples. Then, I start looking at plans for another one. I may have a problem. Latest picture is the ballast tank sealed with fittings.

Best way to mount brushed motor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ron Its food wrap as shown by Doug. I am posting some pics of a very rough set up to illustrate the process. I have used some white tissue to illustrate the white bath sealant but I think you will get the idea. The mounting blocks need to be wide enough to take any screw fixing you choose to use and can be mounted direct to the hull. Make a plate shaped to the motor diameter to hold and use some soft rubber or similar in between the plate and motor. Dont place this until the silicon has set and you have refitted the motor. I align by connecting the motor to the shaft and gently pushing into the silicon until level. Use a low voltage battery to make sure it runs freely. Then leave to set, could be a couple of days if cold before carefully removing the motor with film. Remove film and refit. As mentioned make sure any cooling holes on the motor are not blocked. Hope this helps but please ask if you need clarification. Dave

Best way to mount brushed motor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ron I use two blocks glued to the base just slightly wider than the motor can. Fill between with silicon bath sealant cover the motor in cling film (the acetic acid will attack the can until it has set) push into the sealant and run at slow speed to get best alignment. Leave to dry for a few days, carefully remove the motor and film from the motor. I then fashion a top clamp to hold the motor using some soft material between the clamp and motor. I have used cable ties and rubber bands for some lighter motors. Gives a really smooth mount and there is no noise such as you have if its bolted to the hull. Just make sure you leave gaps for any cooling holes in the mounting. Hope this helps Dave

Motor Cooling by Oyster Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Awesome, thanks for the help!

Motor Cooling by EAGLE Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi SHG Models sell a water pump that can be run for long time, l have one on my TID, and l've run for over 3/4 of an hour. Hope this helps. Regards Dave

Motor Cooling by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Not an expert on this but I think the usual,(easiest) way is via a water pickup behind the prop and then exhausted though the side or whereever looks right. I have heard of motors or ESC's being fitted with temperature sensors that turn on a pump if the heat starts to build up. I think most pumps will only work for a short period at a time. Chris

Motor Cooling by Oyster Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Just curious. When setting up cooling coils for a motor does it run off a pump or just sea to sea piping.

46" Fireboat - what engine(s)? by Vapour Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello folks. Brand new here, so go easy! I have searched but not quite found what I am after. Apologies if I've missed the obvious. Having just finished a 36" Fireboat with my son, I am now thinking about the larger 46" version. The little boat is running a Radient Reaktor motor / ESC combo which is 3000kV with a matched ESC and 2S1P LiPo battery. Performance is pretty good, although we're still ironing out some cooling issues and vibration (old model resurrected). I am going to do the big boat 'properly' so am looking for recommendations for power, ESC and batteries. I am looking for overscale performance and tend to run on choppy water with currents (i.e. rivers😁). Thanks in advance, everyone!