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Wooden structure submarine chasers of 70 years in service with Russia and East Germany. Cover with balsa and smeared with epoxy varnish. The model is equipped with two engines of 600 pcs, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3000 mA
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
Hello all, Hope you are well? It's taken a while to get to where I am but I can start to see some real progress. I've managed to get the main superstructure complete, they are at a stage where they could be connected to the deck if it was ready. The Hull is now covered in a layer of Balsa, it does now need a lot of rubbing down so I can then look at applying a layer of fiberglass. I've not ordered this yet but I have seen it advertised at Cornwall Model Boats. If anyone has any suggestions on how to fiberglass I'm happy to hear any advise as this will be my 1st time. Good luck with your builds Regards Dave
Hi Ed I would probably use the back edge of a small chisel to gently scrape the paint from the plastic. To aid adhesion any shinny surfaces need to be gently scoured to allow the glue to penetrate the plastic. as you have some scrap you can see if MEK dissolves the plastic, if it doesn't it wont work. If it's PVC then you will need a PVC type glue as methyl ethly ketone is for plasticard type. PVC is usually used for guttering etc, I would be surprised if it was used for your model but it would explain the poor joints. As you can't get inside you will need to add a cover all round the boat over the join. You can get angled plasticard which would certainly help strengthen the join especially as it is carrying the 21lbs weight. The added benefit would be a neat edge all round. You can shape plasticard by heating in warm water and bending to shape. If you tape in place it will retain the shape when it has cooled. You might also be OK using your Z -poxy providing you roughen the angle and hull where they join. Dave
Beat me to it, I have used WEP and scrap plastic, to strengthen all joints in a Plastic TID tug, Corvette and my latest build Vosper Gun boat.I used a small jam jar as issued with my toasted tea cake at Costa coffee, just cut up some scrap plastic into jar, pour in enough WEP to cover, seal jar with lid leave over night, then using a cheap brush paint inside and in your case outside joint, after cleaning surfaces first. My TID tug, has stood up to of many a knock, with no leaks so far, apart from when my Brother ran it down with his RC yacht and she turned turtle took on water and down she went , after a quick rescue and trip to park gents to use its hand drier, she was soon back sailing, joints still intact :-)
Hi Ed What a bummer. I agree with Mark on how to find the leak(s). I have looked back over your blog and on page three you mentioned the plasticard hull had split and you showed a pic and the subsequent repair. I suspect this or a similar joint where the plasticard is bent may be your problem. You have mentioned resin covering but this may not have been possible. What glue did you use? Plastic can be difficult to glue. Stablitz Express was the best when I used to build the Robbe and Graupner model planes. Not cheap but works. UHU Plus Acrylit ( a direct substitute) is available in the UK, Leeds Model Centre http://www.modelshopleeds.co.u k/ have stock, use the site search to find it. Hope you find and cure. Dave
Hi Bellman I found this on u-tube which may help https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=Zdv0xVFuh60. There are other posts on U-tube that also cover this topic. For the benefit of our members who may not be so savvy on your CLR and sailing boats Wikipedia explains https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Center_of_lateral_resistance. Hope this helps but I hope some more knowledgeable member will post their own method of calculation. Good luck and please post details of how you decide where you place your keel and balance. Dave
Hi midlife306 Welcome to the site. Impressive looking model and its will look spectacular once painted. Is it mainly wood construction? If so are you intending to cover the wood inside and out to protect against water? If you are intending to use IC engines you need to find some where to sail as most waters prohibit their use mainly due to the noise and pollution. The hull is a fast racing hull that would suit a brushless set up with LiPos. There are many configurations and I suspect a surface piercing prop is one option. I suggest you find a local model boat club near to you and go and see if they run fast race boats. There is a section on this site for Model Boat Clubs that will help you find one locally.Hopefully they will be able to guide you into the best set up for this hull. I have a fellow club member who is really into speed and he sources his bits from Prestwich Model Centre but also from the States. Please keep us posted on progress and do keep asking for help and advice, it may just save you from making costly mistakes. Dave
Repositioned 2/3 of the battery weight 8” sternwards into the only convenient location available. Rewired so the battery segments remain in series and the 7.2 volts operating voltage retained. Was able to retest and determined that adding 4.5 oz of ballast at the stern established a similar waterline to one of the pictures the model is based upon. Considered moving the remaining battery cells sternwards to avoid ballast, but this would be difficult due to the internal configuration of the model. The effect of saving the 4.5 oz ballast on a 9 lb model would have little discernible effect of the waterline, am thus reconciled to adding a small lead weight of up to this amount under the stern slipway. The next step is to complete the stern R.I.B and devise a launch / recovery mechanism. Whatever the weight of these item turns out to be will need to be subtracted from the 4.5 oz and become the final ballast weight.
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No excuse I know, but Adrian has been quite poorly and has spent some considerable time in hospital. He is now at home recovering so just keep trying, you are better contacting him by telephone rather than e-mail. Shaun
Well its an original Aerokits Sea Commander and in the timescale available I would forget about stripping off the paint or sealing the inside as it is probably covered with several coats of oil based paint. Sorry I believed you had a brushless motor but yours looks like a standard 550 brushed so will require a brushed ESC, a 15/20amp mtronic should suffice but any similar ESC will be OK. Unless you are intending to run for long periods or race the boat I would leave the watercooling, it's easy to add later if required. Can you photo the inside of the cabin where the motor sits also the outside area where the ply has delaminated. Is there a prop shaft? You need to make sure the shaft and bearings are OK. Looking forward to more pics Dave