Colin May I suggest that you cover up that Mills c/case. It will oxidise and the oxide won't protect it from water especially salt water.A crinkle/crackle finish or Hammerite smooth( or hammered if you prefer ) would suit.👍 When are you going to tell me what the proportions of diesel to Methanol were?👍.
Found this on British Pathe newsreel footage, but what are they? The light coloured one appears to be a Darby but with no back cover and a flat transom. The others are, I think, Whippets. https://www.britishpathe.com/video/newnham-on-severn-aka-new... Also found a Pathe of a Darby I didn't know of called Bacchus, in colour! Martin
Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. It would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
Im not on here that much, so a little late picking this up. Are you talking about TT25 transducers like the ones Mrrcsound sell/ I suppose they all work the same, I've used these a lot, in planes mostly, and experimented with boats, so can offer some hands on advice. Firstly, you don't cut any holes to let sound out, as this isn't how they work. Its all about the vibrations. The centre ring is epoxied (that's the best way, they have to be permanent, but with some teasing they can be removed it required, rather than cyno) to the surface, which obviously needs to be flat. The thinner the material, the more sound, but its marginal, as the thinner you go, the less bass, or deeper tones. With planes, the best material by far is the epo foam, so when mounting into a ply or balsa plane they work best going to foam, then the ply, and the same will apply for a boat. 2-3mm is generally the optimum thickness. Remember, the area is going to vibrate, so use an area that can do this, the sides of a hull are ideal. The back of the transducers get hot, so don't cover the back, the heat has to dissipate and once secure, make sure the unit can move in and out, its easy to drip glue in the wrong place and the whole thing gets stuck, it wont vibrate now, so won't do the job. Also, its worth epoxying the transducer to 2mm foam, epo that the ready to fly planes works best, its close density, the stuff that packs white goods is poor as its a more open density and falls apart. Once you have this, you can move it around by just holding it against the hull to see where the best sound is. All this is relevant to the Mrrcsound transducers, I use a number of his sound units, so cant really comment on what you are using as I cant find that info on this thread (did a man read!) Here are a couple of my models to give you an idea👍 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXFvrkDl7ow&t=207shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OITvPabFHY&t=165s so these are all Mrrcsound units, and both have two tt25 transducers either side ogf the hull and fuselage. With the Mrrcsound systems, you can use two tt25, if you want an additional two, then an aux amp is required hope that helps! Paul
Hi Ed, Make it a 12 foot Log Periodic then you can cover a wider frequency range and sharpen the beam and antenna gain at the same time😉😁 Moral; don't trade antenna jokes with a COMMS engineer 😁😁 Sorry Ed, couldn't resist that, but can appreciate your annoyance with the WiFi. I got so fed up with WLAN drop outs I simply bought a router with more ports and hardwired all my LAN gear. I've also separated my Internet and HD TV feeds on separate systems so that I can't lose everything if one system goes down - power cuts excepted😲 Haven't got around to rigging up an auto back-up diesel genny yet😉 Since then no snags - fingers tightly crossed! BTW: if the distributor in your block is a communal system have a moan to the house / facility management or whatever you call it over there. Also check around if your neighbours are having similar problems. Cheers, Doug 😎
Any suggestions for creating a water tight seal? I am using clear hockey tape around the cabin roof which seems to keep water out, but over the open cockpit is where I am placing a cover which is suppose to keep water out of this area. I also poured polyurethane on the floorboards of the cockpit to provide a good seal and caulked the seams too.
I once played 'suicidal' silly mid on, and caught the end of a mistimed leg drive on my jaw! Jaw survived but a few teeth didn't😡 Relegated myself to extra cover after that, occasionally 3rd slip when absolutely necessary! I still can't get the smell of cider passed my nose 🤔 Cheers (!?) Doug 😎
No Martin, I don't think so. Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it. If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the reaction was 'don't call us - we'll call you'. Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. It is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off. I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience. Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS. Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed. Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' ! Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked. And no, the kids can't normally get around it. If they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions! Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. If that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships? "I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. In another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff" No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance. OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...? (Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?) After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and Italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth? Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. In this the crémé de la crémé of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the International Model Show here. It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and aircraft of of all types including turbine jets. Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model. The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership. So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents? BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of aircraft and ships in action as well. Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels. BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself. Have fun with the Taycols. Cheers, Doug 😎
By Christ you should've seen us---- After the drinks that is. Scrumpy put me in a dry (thankfully) ditch for about 6 hours and even my darkish skin got sun sore . I'd stopped at a farm to ask directions about 10 'clock and was offered a drink as it was so hot. Loving cider I opted for some home made from the keg on the sideboard. About 1/2 a pint and a chat later I was on the bike again.About 6 in the evening a sledgehammer woke me banging inside my head and I was stiff and sore. Luckily someone offered me a lift to the inn I was lodging at. A warm shower and a meal soon sorted me out. BTW it didn't put me off cider though Re my square leg(s)Is that why I can't walk? I'm more like silly mid off currently.😁👍👍👍 Just realised my McAffee cover has Expired .Thanks for the Jog👍
Evening Peter, I can confirm that the Shapeways 50 cal sets are very brittle, at 1/35 very filigree and fragile. I haven't built them yet, just trial fitted the carriages in the gun tubs, whereby I discovered that they are a tick smaller diameter than the tubs😲 So they are on the back burner until I have the hull and propulsion finished. Which will itself have to wait while I finish the hull renovation / conversion of my ancient Billing Boats fish cutter. Re: Airbrush: why the hell waste over a hundred quid buying another? Just buy a selection of needles and jets for the one you have. Mine came with a range from 0.3 to 0.8mm. Seem to remember remarking that 0.5 is too small for hull spraying! I'll only charge 50 quid for the advice and you've still saved 50!! 😁😁😁 Re next project: I reserve judgement, until I see one of the current projects afloat! 😉 Whatever, have fun with it, Cheers, Doug 😎
On to Coating and Matting. (as well as sanding!) Now have at least finished all the stripping. Then did the ‘bright light in the hull bit’ to look for areas that needed patching. The major problem area was in the bow and that did not receive the light as it is a totally blanked off compartment. However, it was obvious from the outside anyway so, could I assume it was the only leak? Decided to put a fine matt over the whole hull, not deck, just to be sure of best chance of success. I can imagine what will be said here if it still leaks after all this! I had ordered some supplies ready for the next stage and drew up a plan view of the boat to help think through layout of electrics and other items. Made my usual mistakes about size. Some fittings purchased too small………However, never too large now that’s interesting. Some materials purchased too large. Now have a life’s worth of Resin……(when does it ‘go off’ by?) Also have a lounge floors worth of tissue matting! Also Sandpaper. Now there is a mine field. So now I know a bit more about that and which way the numbers work! When I forgot to put the mask on, I had some of the crispest 'bogies' in years.............. No images posted! On the plus side, although I never wanted to get into this stripping sanding, filling sanding, sealing sanding, matting sanding, painting sanding, painting, sanding bit……………. I now feel I started out with someone’s boat I had bought and now it has become “my boat” for real! I am at the stage now where I have put some filler in and applied the first coat of Eze-Kote from DeLuxe Materials To use Eze-kote read stuff from RNinMunich on this blog or the’ leaking boat’ thread. Washes out of the brushes very easily. There is such as this ..... Youtube link - watch?v=yP05qv3QtUk RNinMunich or Colin H. and the like have bits of extra comment and experience that is always very helpful. BTW, after that finer sanding before first coat, I did the dust down and vacuuming bit but it still felt a bit ‘chalky’ so I gave it a wipe with Methylated Spirits. Now I realise that has water in it, so if anything goes wrong it could be blamed on that................. Having left the first coat to dry I started to cut out the light matt to apply after the next sanding. The matting I have is called Glassfibre Surface Tissue EGlass from FibreGlass Direct. A part of Tricel Composites (NI) Limited. Available internationally in lengths from a metre upwards, it is quite fine in weave so we shall see what happens. I have left quite a wide margin at the moment but may reduce that when I have tried using it! This is another first for me so plenty of room for mistakes............... Will need to cover with the matt in stages as I cannot get around all the boat without changing its position. Going for the bottom of the vessel and stern board first as I figure they are going to be easier than some of the other bits. Then will leave that to cure before moving the boat. Really worried about the joins/overlaps and how well I will cope with those, not to mention the curved bit! Started to look at electrics and layout for a bit of a change. I will post again when I have had the first battles with the matting! TTFN. NPJ
Good morning John, I will be trying to remove the jacket later today, so I'll post pictures and results later. As for the fuel mix, a buddy who works on helicopters at the SAS camp was helpful in this, as the motor was covered in so much crap he suggested immersing it in diesel overnight, then blow off with air line before cranking it. He suggested that as it was a diesel it should fire up on diesel with a little help from bradex easy start, but as I don't have any he said to try a few drops of methanol, 10ml of diesel and two drops of methanol from an old eye dropper. A piece of silicone pipe was fitted to the fuel line in and a small funnel, then a piece of rubber pipe push fit on drive shafts and held in battery drill. Put the fuel in funnel and opporate the drill, and away it went. Cheers Colin.