Yes, I know what your saying about needing weight, I have yet to find out just how much, however I am intending to run it from a 12v7a sla, and with two good size motors, so hopefully I shouldn't need to add to much if any, the original hull design is supposed to have a curve right around the bottom, this proved to be unstable and would need even more weight, so I cut it of and made it a flat bottom. I only wanted to make a recovery boat for break-down's, this seemed like the idea solution, but I think I am getting a little carried away with it other than just "bunging it together".
Hi John, I wondered about cutting slits, BUT figured the steel would be very very hard and my Dremel cutters wouldn't manage it, (my other cutter is for bricks an' such), AND the damn things have no dimples, they are hex nut shape 😭 Figured I'd screw up my drills trying to put a dimple in it🤔 Recovery system On Hold till I get my cutter and PTB renovations 'on the road'. Cheers, Doug
Doug create your own split dies by cutting through with thin cutting discs in a good mains powered mini grinder. Cut through the middle dimple on the edge.This will enable spreading for first cut.Closing down bit by bit 'til a good fit achieved on the screw thread without any slop. I've fallen for solid/restoring dies sold on line etc as cutting dies too.The edges of the split form the cutting edge. Got to be very clean thin cut though. If you can arrange for the cutter and the die to be held rigid as you cut and take it slowly to avoid heating. Some of your cutting oil might help too.It might take a few discs .If you can find metal cutting circular saw blades they may work better/cleanly.👍 P.S. How's the recovery system coming?
Very nice👍 Where are the Bikini Babes? Still inside changing? 😉 Have also been thinking of such a trailer, handy for launching on our stony sloping shores here. Was prompted by watching several launches and recoveries on Lake Garda northern Italy recently. Cheers, Doug 😎
I'll have to get in touch with RS then. Thanks. I'd much rather buy electrics than make! All these aftermarket Rxs claim they are compatible with other companys' Txs and hundreds of thousands appear to be just that. I'm still pretty sure that DX5e is duff. I read on an American forum they're calling them Wreckums, so I ain't the only one. And I ain't paying their prices for an Rx either when the Orange and the Storm are, effectively clones thereof. I was surprised to find the things wouldn't bind to the FlySky, but then the manual for that is crap and doesn't cover binding to any other Rx, even though it's headed "other Txs. and Rxs. So, the Rx thing has cost me 15 quid in all. The 50 quid I paid for the TX is what pisses me off big time. I take it there's no reason why the Flysky shouldn't bind to the Storm and Orange is there? If I did send you the DX5e would you have a look at it for me? I'd rather pay you than someone over here I never heard of.. Cheers, Martin
Working on the hull and superstructure ,The hold lifts out to allow access my brothers going to do the mechanical side for me he has a motor no details yet , battery pack etching will be in the hold covered by dummy coal ,That's the theory anyway
Evenin' Martin, Beat ya 2 it! just made the ally jaw covers 😉 I do have smooth jaw vices (or vici !?) but they are only small machine vices. I use 'em mostly with the milling machine. Ta for the frame info (tilt type), must say I'm relieved, simplifies the sawing and fettling👍 I did the filing and fettling of my windows in the vice as well, with wood blocks between them and vice😉 except the last few irritating thou which I did freehand on the end of the bench. Ta for saw link as well. Looks like a more versatile fret saw, which I have but fixed length and I suppose the metal blades I have for it are probably too coarse for 1mm ally. Will probably order the set with 144 various blades. Funny, most of 'em seem to be made here in Germany but so far I can only find 'em on English sites!? Know what you mean about V block, will probably make one. My 'mechanical problem' now is cutting a 3x0.6 thread on the 3mm propshaft I made. First attempt bent the shaft 😡 Stupid die just doesn't want to bite, an' it's 'nigel nagel neu'. Hilfe! Nice frames and gutters 👍 Sorry about the car, hope it's not toooo expensive😲 Marky; Rasp? or raspberry ? Fruit is less painful 😁 Commodore; but is your 'raincoat' tinted and scratch-proof ?😁 Cheers All, Doug 😎 Nearly forgot; Martin can you please elucidate (yes it is legal😉) on the 'dummy screws with a sharpened tube'. Not quite with you yet on that! Glad you like the glue👍
Haha, I bet you're better equipped than that, but you really need a piercing saw and a selection of blades. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YNR-Adjustable-Piercing-Fret-Saw-... Here's a f'rinstance. Others are available. I'm sure Conrad will have them. They cut the finest curves and although with a vee block you can do what silversmiths do, I have always used the vice jaws as a guide, which is why I'm on my 7th vice or so. I have completely worn them away! I use them for my junior hacksaw cuts too. You really must make some smooth jaw covers or get a smooth jawed vice. Less than perfect, but good enough ones can be had from ebay too. I even put the 1mm styrene in the vice to file the radiussed corners, once I've cut the straight lines. I then make a straight cut across the corners and then file them while the styrene is in the vice. Here's the framed windows I did yesterday. Haven't done much today as I had to MoT test the car, which failed, alas. So that's in tomorrow for the work to be done as my son-in-law no longer mends cars, even family ones. Also here are the brass gutters over the cabin windows, some of which need the apertures to be cleaned up, before final painting. Cheers, Martin
Ah, old car days, eh? Nothing phased us. Can't touch them now. No idea what it all is under that plastic cover. Spookilly, I've just done a pattern in 1/32nd scale for a Maranello GTO1964. One of my favourite cars messed over by Maranello for Le Mans. Your fish cutter seems to be throwing some problems up, but nuttn' a spot of resin can't fix. I don't buy that propellor blade rumour. We have no decent pics of the thing, but you can clearly enough see there aint no twist in the legs like a prop would have. I've just made mine in brass and simply flattened the tube in the vice to get a similar section and soldered to other tubes. All I have to do is make rings and attach the blocks for the ensign ropes. Also cut and attached the toe strips either side of the decks in Venetian blind slat, some leftovers from decking the Vanity cutter model. Now I need to cut some mahogany and attach to the side of the decks as the rubbing strake. Finaly will be making gutters for the smaller windows (NO frames there) and frames for the wheelhouse windows, then I can paint it. I have decided on white roofs after a peer at the good photos again, where the vents all seem to be white. But non-slip was clearly a pain to clean as the roofs and decks are bloody filthy! Vincent's having a break for a while. Call it my annual leave, which I never normally have. Cheers, Martin
IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS ....... Inherited from my Aunt Beryle a few years ago. Found it in her studio, no idea how she came by it! Despite being paralysed from the waist down in a motor bike accident at 16 she became a respected artist, National Academy exhibitions etc. As we all hail from Kent (mostly Folkestone) and Beryle often painted scenes of the south Kent coast, Dungeness, Rye etc, including the fishing boats, I long assumed that the boat, Reg. E714, was from a south coast port possibly in Kent. After much research I discovered that she is a Danish fish cutter based in Ebsjerg on the west coast of Denmark. https://www.google.de/maps/place/Esbjerg,+Denmarkemail@example.com... The kit was built (or better said thrown together!) as a static model. First four pics show what I started with! 😲 First job was to try to dismantle her without destroying too much. Next 6 pics show the sad results. 🤔 Everything is tinder dry, brittle and very fragile, and mostly smothered in thick layers of oil based paint. 😡 The deck is paper thin, obviously just printed, and fell apart in my hands. No great loss as I had already concluded that a new planked deck was required. Decided that first priority is to repair and stabilize the hull. See next Update! A messy business 😲
Hi Martin, No need to get yer knickers in a twist 😲 With the NiMh just stick 'em on your iMax every 2 months and run 'em through a discharge / charge cycle. Otherwise in three months they'll probably be Dodo-like 🤔 NiMh batts lose about 1% charge per day. So, assuming fully charged to start with, they will die in about three months. They should not be discharged below 1.0V per cell or they most likely will not recover and will not take a charge anymore. Your TX LiPo you have no control over so just rely on the charger in the TX. Over winter just switch it on every month or so and check if the red LED lights. If it does stick it on charge until the green LED lights again. Your other LiPo you can give a Storage charge with the iMax. Check it with your Capacity Tester now and again. Storage charge will probably indicate 30 to 50%. If it's less than 30% put it on a Storage charge again. Voltage per cell should never be allowed to go below 3.0V MINIMUM. Start a Battery Diary!! Cheers, Doug 😎 Back to hull sanding for me 😡 P'ing down again today so no outdoor spraying🤔 Just discovered construction fault in my fish cutter😲 First hull planks were set flush with the keel bottom instead of leaving about 1/4" of keel showing 😭 To saw or not to saw ? That is the question!!
Sort of! All done with Giant Duplicolor spray cans! 😉 Nearly shook me 'and off 😲 Yep. learned about the diaphragms! They were a bit tricky to balance but made a hell of a difference compared with the crappy standard Solex. After crunching the Minx on black ice in Thetford Forest 😡 I took 'em off and put them on a Triumph Herald. That and gas flowing the motor ins and outs bumped her up from 75HP to about 125 😊 Getting the needles and jets right was the trickiest bit. Tested on the Rolling Road at Marinello's in Egham near Staines where I lived at the time. Then changed all the suspension and brakes to the Vitesse types. Had to stop her somehow 😲 The Herald had piddly drums! I resprayed it ('hired gun' this time😉) from hideous pale lilac to metallic mid blue. Ended up swapping it for our Finance Director's Rover cos he wanted the souped up Herald for his girlfriend 😉 Then started respraying that; black and silver 😊 Sanding back my cutter I've just discovered another thin spot I can see light through 😡 Back to the resin and tissue stage. BTW: also seem to remember reading about the airscrew-masts some years ago. Don't think it was a general thing but 'they were there' and obsolete for current aircraft. It WAS an RAF boat after all😉 Happy Vincenting, remember looking for the photos last year. Cheers, Doug 😎
End caps fitted to cylinders. Drilled & tap 10BA. Marked the centre for pivot hole. I use marker pen cheaper, than engineer's blue. Only two screws on the caps, might be considered poor. That is one reason I have made them thicker than normal. the other reason will give more cover to the ports, as they will be very near the end. Not much time in shop, at the pool with grand kids.