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>> Home > Tags > cover

cover
stern cover
cover
Oil Sump for Gearbox? by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
Hello, I do not know if it's good to put an oil bathtub in the boat. I think it would be enough to use the grease that they give to the racing car models. I used it a few times and it was great. Grease stays on gears and is not thrown away. Then only the cover of the gearbox is sufficient to prevent the ship from being accidentally wiped. But I prefer to use 6V power motors for 12V and 24V instead of gears. They then have a low current take-off and a small turn, and yet have sufficient force for the bigger bolt. Zdeněk

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I have spoken to the person who built the boat. It is based on a Vintage model boat company design. It was scratch built and is made of strips of mahogany as I originally suspected. Having looked at the Vintage model company site it most resembles a sea hornet, however another kit may have been available at the time it was made. The strips of Mahogany were the builder making use of the materials they had to hand at the time, hence the vertical strips! The interior is covered in fine fibreglass mesh and 3 thin coats of fibreglass resin. Work on the restoration continues!

Futaba Attack 2ER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Hughie It's possible then that the problem was pre the aerial cutting. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs but it is easier to suggest ways forward if all the basics have been covered. If the set was working some time in the past then I would check the crystals. If you can move any of the pins chances are it is broken. Over time crystals can deteriorate for no apparent reason as the internal crystal is encased in a glass vacuum and uses very fine wires for connectors. I appreciate you wish to keep the existing set but if you do have to buy crystals it may be worth considering a 2.4 combo set (Tx/Rx no servos) as the cost may not be much different and will work with your servos. Cheers Dave

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave

Jet Sprint Boat by Rod Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Removed first hull from mould Had a few problems with the release but all OK now so onwards and upwards !! Laid profile for top deck now and starting the clay shaping Should be a bit easier than the hull and hope to have this ready for moulding shortly I intend to cover it with silicone first to get a good impression and back it up for strength with fibreglass strengthened casting plaster I will then lay the fibreglass in the mould and gradually build it up for the finished article Well that's the theory at this stage lol Will keep in touch with progress but going well and I am happy with the results so far

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave

Plans for a V8 engine by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10-scale-v8-motor-cover-failed-print-scale-accessory-for-rc-cars-/172665115347 A little work and you can mock up an engine top only £3:50

Plans for a V8 engine by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
well there are these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/v2-1-10-scale-v8-engine-motor-cover-for-rc-crawler-like-axial-scx10-rc4wd-/172633044521?hash=item2831bb3629:g:0NcAAOSwnONZBSAz its a sort of complete engine

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Martin I was just sharing a bit more info for the benefit of our members. I never said they were quick but did seek to support your view that they were not like the faster recovery vessels. I agree some models are sailed at over scale speed but each to their own and if it attracts new modellers to the hobby all the better. We can always try to interest them in more sedate models once they tire of racing round the lake. Dave

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Martin Crash Tenders were to be used for fire fighting and as rescue craft for Flying Boats after the war. The Comet put paid to intercontinental Flying Boats so the two boats were never used for their intended service and no more were ordered. They were only intended for inshore use so range was never a consideration and the quoted speed was 28 knots. During the War the RAF had many fast recovery vessels that were much closer to the MTB and MGB used by the Navy. One of our deceased club members Brian McAllen actually worked (as a chippy) on the Crash Tenders during his service in the RAF marine branch. He made many models of Crash Tenders and all had massive Brushed motors and were very fast. They look splendid on the water and possibly because of the Aerokits versions are very nostalgic for many of a certain age. Dave

3 Footer on a very rare outing by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
So the Crash Tenders only had a speed of 30 knots and that isn't that quick. The scramble nets were used for recovering airmen downed in the water, they had to get to them quick. Have you been on the water at 30 knot's compared to in a car it feels a hell of a lot different. British Power Boat 60 ft MTB. They were based on the British Power Boat rescue craft and were originally designed for the Royal Air Force but reduced to 60 ft (18 m) in length. They could carry two 18-inch (457 mm) torpedoes and achieve a maximum speed of 33 kn (38 mph; 61 km/h).

days to sail by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
HI and welcome to MMBG. You will need public liability and permission from East Lindsey Council before you can sail with us. It is very easy to obtain PL ins. by joining The Model Power Boat Assn. Send your membership card with covering letter to the council, bring your membership card and council letter to us for confirmation of your membership. Very easy and I can supply you with forms if you wish. . Suggest you phone me for a chat 01507 475946. Regards Victor👍

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Thanks Dave, the schooner looks good. The joins at not bad below the varnish and the inside of the hull is already covered with fine glass cloth and resin. The previous varnish is very hard so removing it without removing the wood will take a while. John.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Thank Doug, Martin and Vic, I have started the sanding today. It is slow progress as the varnish is hard and well stuck to the wood. The inside has already been covered with fine glass cloth and epoxy it is just not clear in the picture. I can see this job will take some time. I will keep you updated. Thanks again for the advice it was much needed. John.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
Agree with your generally used methods for varnishing, but these narrow vertical planks with all their joints will never go away. They will crack if it gets hot they will crack when it's cold and damp. Ask me how I know! They all need to be bridged by a single surface. I will be using J-Cloth and epoxy on my yacht as J-Cloth is very strong and cheap as chips. The only other method is to cover the vertical planks with a single horizontal layer of veneer, but that might be difficult to cover if any compound curves have crept in at the bow due to sanding of blocks or whatever. But somehow those joints have to be covered. Filling won't work. Martin