All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
February 2017: 6 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people July 2016: 4 people June 2016: 1 person May 2016: 1 person April 2016: 9 people March 2016: 5 people February 2016: 5 people
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1200g Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Geared to a Graupner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: 18" of Ice covers the pond so much of the information requested must remain blank. The boat has only seen the bathtub ! No leaks. Stable and balanced. Paint is acrylic, clear-coated wood is mahogany. This is a Nor-Star Kingfisher kit with some alterations and added details. Looking forward to posting a video of the boat running on the lake in April after the ice leaves.
You are making a terrific job of your Crash Tender. I have posted two pictures of how I have done my water line. I done it all in one run without cutting it. My boat is just a scaled down version and is not by any means on par with what yours or other peoples boats are😭. Mine was just something I was doing after recovering from a shoulder operation. So I hope you will not judge it against yours. Mine is all balsa apart from a second bottom skin of 1/32nd ply to reinforce the underneath. I have been watching your build with great admiration and wish I had all the skill you have. I look forward to seeing the end result and to see a video of her on the water😊.
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper. The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓 The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos. The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light. I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof. The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss. These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients. Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front. Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎
Hi Steve How about getting someone with a 3D printer to make you some? They are small and fiddly but would be relatively easy to make. I am now recovered so intend to visit the supplier this morning to get some Fastcast. I will then cast the parts you require and hopefully be ready to send in a couple of days. Dave
Rewind…. When I first started my build blog I described my visit to the London Model Engineer exhibition in January 2016 and that my enthusiasm for model making was re-kindled. It was as a result of seeing a crash tender model on the Blackheath MPBC stand and getting into conversation with the owner of the boat. He went on to inform me that kits were still being made for them and he gave me the names of a couple of companies to look at. His valuable information led to some further research on the subject and finding various sites including this one which I immediately registered with, and I subsequently bought a Vintage Model Works 46" RAF crash tender kit and embarked on my rediscovered hobby. Fast forward…. I attended the same exhibition this January and was delighted to see the same chap on his club stand and I took the opportunity to remind him of our previous meeting and discussion and to thank him for his advice and recommendations. He looked at some of the photographs of my boat that I had on my camera and he was very complimentary on my building efforts. That chap is Phil Abbott, otherwise known to his friends as Steamboat Phil, and I would like to give him the credit for re-igniting my model making interest. Thanks Phil, I hope you are following and enjoying my build blog. Robbob
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark
Hi guys sorry if this is a newbie question but is it better to cover and epoxy my plank and frame hull or can I do as the instructions say and just seal fill and paint. Is the resin coating the only way to gets it really smooth.
Now that the red oxide has dried and hardened it’s time to mask it off in preparation of spraying the upper hull black. First I had to very carefully flat back the ridge in the red oxide paint left by the edge of the masking tape that might prevent the new masking tape laying flat. I chose two types of Tamiya tape, the first is the very thin and flexible type to get the sharp edge and this was then overlaid with the wider flexible variety. Once this initial masking edge was established all round the hull and at deck level I could mask up the rest fully. As an experiment and to prevent any possible bleed through of solvents through regular newspaper onto my lovely red oxide anti-fouling I chose to mask with some ’Bacofoil’ which actually works very well for this purpose as it is quite strong and easily folded and formed to the hull shape. I didn’t use too much of this from the roll, and my wife never noticed it’s absence from the kitchen whilst I was nicking it …result ! The hull was thoroughly wiped over with a tack cloth and panel wipe to remove any traces of contaminants that could spoil the paint finish and then it went into the booth. The pre-warmed paint went on very easily but at one point I noticed a bit of blooming on the surface in a few places but much to my relief this soon disappeared. Even after only one coat the finish looked very smooth and glossy. I left this first coat for a day or two to fully harden before wet flatting it down with an 800 grade abrasive. The second and third coats were applied in the same way, each left to harden for a day or more before flatting with a yet finer grades wet & dry paper. With the final coat on the finish greatly exceeded my expectations 😎 The masking tape and foil was very carefully removed to reveal a very sharp line where black meets red although this will be covered with the white ‘Trimline’ tape I bought from SHG Model Supplies at the Bristol model show in the summer. After a further couple of days drying and hardening I gave the black paint a bit of a polish with some Halfords cutting/polishing compound. I’m extremely pleased with this finish and at the same time frightened to death that I’ll ruin it in some way with a clumsy knock or in the lettering and lacquering stages 😓 …
All of the above suggestion should work fine, but a good idea to remove as much H2O as possible after every sail, and leave hatches etc open at least over night, to allow for any remaining dampness to dissipate that may have by-passed the waterproof coating, Have a 1/24th scale Vosper Motor Torpedo boat, constructed using balsa with tissue cover, which is some 30-40 years old, hull still sound using the above mantra. 😎
Hi guys Im having a clear out of stuff ill never get around to and thought Id give club members a chance on this one. If not its off to ebay next week. Ive decided to let my Barn find 1/200 Nichimo Yamato go. Bought about a year ago and really all ive done is taken it apart. Its been stored in a shed before that for thirty years but i reckon its 95% there. £350. Collection only from Dorking in Surrey. Pictures here of before stripping down: http://www.crispyandtherocketm an.com/blank http://www.crispyandtherocketm an.com/blank?lightbox=dataItem -ip6mpok2 What you get: As you can see from the pictures when she came to me she had been stored in someone’s shed for the last thirty years. Virtually all there but infested with spiders and covered with an inch of grime. Scroll forward six months and all the parts that could be teased away have been and washed and in some cases primed. Hull stripped and primed. The original noisey contra rotating gearbox is included but prop connectors had perished. Suggest replace this gear box anyway. Damage to the bow. Ok I won’t lie I dropped a hammer on the damned thing. The ABS plastic foredeck shattered. Took the opportunity to replace the oversize tread plate with correct scale 1/200 tread plate. Damage repaired. Old deck retained so that the anchor fairings could be remade to replace on new deck. Other fittings all salvaged to be refitted on new deck. Rear hanger remade to include a full hanger. Rudder stem needs to be trimmed to allow for deeper hanger. Easy job. Aircraft. Three included all apart for rebuilding. Boats. All present I think. Main guns . Started work on crafting two line railings as wanted to use plastic for strength as this was going to be a pond runner. Easy job to finish. Brass etch doors added Rest of the bits. Are all contained in several pots for sifting through. I can honestly say there will be a few minor items missing but nothing major or that can be scratch built. Very few of the single AA machine guns made it to me, theres a few for templates or casting f you can do that. Superstructure. Complete as far as I can tell. The Big AA guns are all complete and present. Some barrels are dinged but all present. Those that can be removed for working on have been. Rest are stuck on solid. If your interested PM me and Ill take pictures of what she looks like now for you.
I have both huntsman and swordsman, and visually there is no difference. I have been to many boat yards over the last 50 years and seen both of the real boats, and both can have open tear cockpit or rear cabin. The differences lay within. Nice model and I concur with replacing the delaminated section. I use fine glass cloth coated with water based resin to cover my hulls.(eezicoat) No smells so handy when working in the house and dry in about 25 mins.
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave