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December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
[Score: 8/10] 30"/2400g Recovery Boat Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 15mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a 500 type (Twin engines) (2 Blade S Type) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Credit for the design of this craft must go to Mote Park Club member 18 (Dave). I have not had the pleasure of meeting Dave yet but hope to in the near future. I looked at his Youtube entry and decided to build something very similar. Being a lone sailor most of the time, I thought it sensible to have some form of recovery craft. The craft was built in June 2017 and so far I have used it twice to recover other sailors craft! Worthwhile project and gives peace of mind when out on the lakes. Many thanks Dave! I added the camera so I could take some photos of my SeaSpray from a different perspective, I will upload photos as they become available.
http://ellisboat.com/bunker-and-ellis-downeast-boatbuilders/ The Ellis boats must have been the inspiration for this old kit from Midwest. I bought the boat as seen in the first photos which was built by Don Sutton, Metro Modellers Toronto, Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦 He knew I had my eye on making one from scratch and offered me a fair price to buy his boat. I am now adding the hard cover over the cockpit as seen on many of the Bunker & Ellis boats. Previously I added deck furniture to the helm and passenger. Also found the near scale figures. My plan is to add the forward railing around the bow; add deck boards and more furnishings such as two step boarding ladder, navigation equipment, and possible a fresh coat of paint to the hull.
BRAVO ZULU! Very fine replica, sir. In relation, I am about to build a 1:48, 35" USCG 140' Bay Class Icebreaking tug, USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101). I was fortunate to sail aboard her in the mid '80s, and it's a pipe dream come true to build a scale RC replica of her. In fact, I have the matching 1:48 hull of a USCG 210' WMEC, USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627), that I served aboard prior to. I am just now beginning to research CCG rescue vessels & small craft. I reckon that will take another adult childhood to discover! THANK YOU! HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY. FAIR WINDS & FOLLOWING SEAS
[Score: 8/10] 30" Serenity Capable of 6mph and a runtime of 120mins Direct Drive to a Mother nature Controlled Through Futaba 27Mhz ESC - Comments: A wooden yacht that I am told is based on a fiesta (but presumably not the ford version) A fast and responsive sail and enjoyable. It had sticky back plastic deck accesses but I disliked them and made up balsa hatch covers instead, varnished in clear varnish they are more pleasing to my eye despite the lessening of water protection. can anyone recognise the design?
It's one of the facets of scratchbuilding that is little talked about. It seems inevitable that undesirable features (I don't want to say errors) will occur and then there's some serious head-scratching about whether to ignore, cover up, fix (and how to) or start again. This is a great encouragement to others facing similar dilemmas to figure out a fix.
Hi Steve Sorry, no I did not take photos of the build. If you have the Mobile Marine hull then I built a vertical wooden plate up through the top and strengthened with wood plates beneath the top moulding. If your rudder snake runs over the top make sure you allow for this when deciding how high to mount the motor/prop!! This works but flexes when power is applied so if I did another I would mount the upright to the base and make a slot in the top to allow it to pass through. I would also provide support, below the top, to the upright behind and right up to the hull sides. The force from the motor is truly awesome and plastic mouldings tend to (and do) flex. I use two rudders as other members have found they work better than one. I used 1/8" welding rods for the cage and did have some hard black netting at one time but have had no problems with just the frame. If I sailed in an area where the public had access then I would provide a cover. Just get the mount and prop sorted before you finalise as mine was too small!
Hi Alex They will be connected in series with the positive connected to the negative. I suggest you carefully cut off the heat shrink covering, taking care not to cut into the cells. You can then check each cells voltage. The nominal is 1.2v rising to 1.4v when charged. Any around 1v or less will never hold a charge so mark them with a marker pen. Hopefully it will be one of the end cells that has failed. On your type of pack the bottom of the battery (negative) will be in a metal case attached to the top (positive) of the next cell. I use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the cells (they are spot welded) and sometimes you can get the case off the bottom of the dud cell, leaving it attached to the positive of the next cell. I suggest you then charge the remaining good cells to see if they all take a full charge. If they are OK you can get a new cell or just make a lower voltage pack. I use a piece of stranded wire to repair the joint. You will need a 40+watt iron and some solder paste, and may need to scratch the battery case and pin for the solder to take. If you were careful with removing the heat shrink you can use it to cover the pack with a bit of electrical tape to make good. Please ask if you need any guidance with the process. I have been doing this for many years and may not have explained in enough detail if it's new to you. Do remember if the battery is charged it can short in its unwrapped state so do make sure you bench is uncluttered and kept clear of any metal objects. Good luck
Hi Mick , for some strange reason I couldn't put up a response on your harbour wattle post ,she is currently undergoing restoration at a yard in Melbourne ,Glad to see you back in the saddle and that the recovery is going strong ,loved your brass work for your wattle . Cheers Marky 👍
Hi Mark, re main battery and the latch on the main hatch: I discovered that you can turn it round and then the latch doesn't foul the battery. You just need to cut a slot in the aft end of the hatch well to take the locating tab. Then make a little plastic box round the inside of the slot to keep water out, the same as around the original slot on the forward edge. I will probably also use a couple of neodym magnets to make sure it don't move. Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.THIS ONE'S TOO BIG FOR THE TUB, SO COME NEXT NAVIGATION SEASON, I'LL BE INVESTING IN A 12X4 FT. INFLATABLE POOL. LET'S GO RC BOATING! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
[Score: 8/10] 37"/3600g ILLINI NATIVE Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (10Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS AMERICAN BEAUTY TOWBOAT KIT; 35X9 INCH ABS "HYDRODYNE" HULL TOPPED WITH BIRCH PLY AND BASSWOOD SUPERSTRUCTURE. SHE IS GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE SCALE SHIPYARD PAINT SCHEME, THE DECK IS COVERED BY 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING PROTECTED BY MINWAX POLYURETHANE. SHE FEATURES FLANKING RUDDERS WITH RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEELS, TWIN 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAYS, TWIN 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTANS, 9V LED NAV LIGHTS WITH AMBER DECK STANDING LIGHTS AND DUAL BRUSHLESS VENT/COOLING FANS ON THE INBOARD SIDE OF THE FUNNELS (FOR THE FUN OF IT). SHE IS THE SECOND ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET SHE'S PUSHING AHEAD A SET OF DUMAS 1:48 RAKE BOW & BOX BARGES ACROSS THE WINDING CARPET RIVER
This is my latest progress on the Barracuda RC Boats 52' MLB, US COAST GUARD "TRIUMPH"CG- 52301. I was up until 0500 this AM attempting to finish sheathing the hull. The deck housings are just about ready for paint. I really don't enjoy covering natural wood, but it's a must to achieve proper detail, I reckon. I'm awaiting 1/8" scribed sheathing for the deck, the fantail semicircle will be 1/16" sheathing, and the outboard perimeter of the deck will be 3/16" light mahogany strips. She's powered by a 775 Johnson-type 6-12v motor turning a 4mm shaft and a 75mm 5-blade Raboesch wheel. The 5-blade isn't OEM, but I reckoned she needed some extra muscle to get to the party in distress.
There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.
I had a quick look around and discovered this hull matched 12V 750 Speed electric motor, hull matched 40mm 2 bladed prop this from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/aerokits-sea-co... However if you want performance http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/Motors_and_Speed_Control... That should give the equivalent power output to a .40 IC engine and make the hull come to life the way it was intended to. Couple that to a LIPO battery and a suitable ESC. Remember when the kit was originally made IC was the norm The Sea Commander was introduced by Aerokits at Gorleston Norfolk in the early 1950s. Designed by L J Rowell the Sea Commander is a smaller version of the Sea Queen. The length is 34 1/4 inches by 10 3/4 inches and is almost identical except there is no mast. Intended for the ED Marine Racer and Hunter power plants