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>> Home > Tags > crash tender

crash tender
fenders
fleet tender
knitted fenders
seaplane tender
crash tender
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 hours ago
1/72nd version of the RAF by Airfix.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
I was also told about cutting away the front edge for the same reason, digging in on turn's. I have found on hulls like the Vosper RAF Crash Tenders and MTB hulls they sit on the water on a turn as if they are stuck on the water no roll at all. Also on the Huntsman style hull they also turn a lot better with minimal roll. It was told to me on her the other day that the rudders were meant to be the way they are and there was no need to cut away the leading edge. I have done this for many years now, since the mid 70's and had great results I even put a 10cc engine in a hull rated for 5 to 7.5cc and it was an amazing boat to run. I turned a couple of boats upside down until the rudders were trimmed and then good to turn. I'm glad I have found someone that thinks it's alright to do. 👍😊

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
I always use as smaller rudder as I can get away with. I had been running model boats for many years then one day when on Blackheath pond someone was watching my boat and remarked on how it turned. badly, and I replied that's how it had always turned. The guy had a boat the same as mine it was a MFA Spearfish, He asked if he could swap rudders on my boat and try his on my boat so that's what I done and it performed much better on the water. I then tried it on my Vosper RAF Crash Tender and it just stuck to the water on any turn tight or wide. So I have done this ever since. On my Huntsman I had turned it over several times before trying this so I done the same on this and once again it was a lot better turning and didn't turn over. I don't like using large rudders if I cannot get one small enough for what I wan't I will get one and then cut it down. We used to race 5 or 6 boats on the water at a time and always needed to turn tight turns to get round the pond. Even watching Power Boat racing on the telly in the past they make tight turns to get round. I have a Probaot Miss Geico tunnel hull and straight from the box brand new the rudder on that has no leading edge and I can turn that flat out on the water with no roll at all. I suppose I am a speed freak and it has worked fine for me. Even if it is the wrong thing to do. The small avatar picture on my posts is a boat I have in Norfolk. This has a 1960 Volvo Penta outdrive probably one of the earliest one's made and that doesn't like to turn on 3/4 throttle without the engine revs dropping and digging in on a turn. I have tried this when out on open water up there. Don't try it now as got a warning from the Norfolk River Constabulary. Don't want to loose my river licence.

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I really like your work done on this boat. How did you go about building it from scratch? By scratch, does this mean making all the parts? I built the 1/72 Airfix kit painting it like you have here. I like that you have also included the side hatch where the wounded could be transported on stretchers. I will send some photos of my kit, but I ‘d enjoy seeing more of this boat you made. Best regards, Ron

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
Traderman - whilst I am not an expert ( I am currently trying to decide what brushless combo to fit to a 34" RAF Crash tender) - clearly your motor is turing your prop shaft way to fast. With your motor spec of 3180 kV and a 14.7 V Lipo - your motor will be trying to turn your shaft at a speed of somewhere in the order of 45,000 RPM !! Firstly your prop shaft may not be rated for anything like this speed and secondly any slight mis alignment will likely be generating significant vibration - enough to cause your problem- have you noticed any? As to motor power - the motor may not be too powerful - but certainly dropping to a lower kV motor say 1100 and reducing the Lipo voltage to a 11 or even 7 volt system might be the right answer......but as I am finding its all a bit suck it and see... Peter

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
If you have a decent vinyl cutter you can use use it with the correct knife to cut up to 1.5mm plasticard. For window frames this works well and I have seen a complete wheelhouse cut using this method. You may need to use a scalpel to free some of the cuts but it does produce very accurate results and is repeatable.

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Happy i could point you in the right direction Mark

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
I was lucky with my 4 foot boat, I had a milling machine, but with thew 3 footer, I used plasticard and cut out by hand with a sharp knife. The problem with the earlier aerokits boats, the windows are never quite the same boat to boat, so you end up with a thick profile frame to cover over any discrepancies, if you know what I mean. The fitting set at slec looks a bit expensive at £35....🤔

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
and here's how 😉 - http://www.slecuk.com/index.html Slec Ltd Units 8-10 Norwich Road Industrial Estate Watton Norfolk United Kingdom IP25 6DR TEL: 01953 885279 FAX: 01953 889393

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 22 days ago
Mark - many thanks for that lead - just spoken to them - v. useful as they do supply the set of windows although they are not on their online shop. Hopefully they will save some "fiddly" work. Cheers - Peter

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Peter, go to SLEC, they have taken over making the 34" boat, they do the spares as well Mark

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
Paul, thanks for the reply - I was hoping to avoid the "fiddly" but guess I am going to have to give it a go. Thanks for clarity on No. 93 only having eyebrows over cabin windows - so many pics "models" on the website seem to show frames on all windows ! Now to the nitty gritty - I don't have milling capability so do you think I can get a reasonable result with fret saw/file and plasticard? What thickness should I use? Thanks - Peter

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Peter, its only the wheelhouse that has frames, sides, screen, and the two rear windows. The cabins didnt have any, other than brows over the top of the front two, the style differs depending on it being 93 or 94. I made my own from plasticard, very fiddly but worth it

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
Does anybody know of where (or anyone) I can source the window frames suitable for 34" Crash Tender I am restoring as it appears the original kit boat I have acquired did not have any. Many thanks - Peter

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi ads Yes you are correct in that only the Mark2 was accepted by the RAF and were Nos 93 and 94. The Mk1 was the initial design but was not considered suitable for purpose hence the modification to the MK2. I do believe your model was built by a keen modeller who took or built a hull and placed his own top details based on the Crash Tender and similar designs from the period. I did find reference to Bridlington MCU and this corresponds with the number on your model https://www.pprune.org/archive/index.php/t-312866.html They were active in 1969 and used Pinnace which does rather tie in with the front wheelhouse of your model. I have a book somewhere that lists all the MCU details and when I find it I will see what I can find.