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>> Home > Tags > crew

crew
crew
Blue Pearl (sailing barge) by Bryan-the-pirate Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 hours ago
So Operation fun... Canons, Pirate flag and crew added. The barge isn't the best sail in the world but is the most remarked on boat by the passing public.

japanese crew figuers by nutrunner Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
not much more to do, stick on numbers -painting the lower part of the hull black sticking down torpedo tubes and 2 life-rafts and few coats of clear lacquer

japanese crew figuers by nutrunner Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
thanks lads for your advice im going to new brighton model shop sunday morning he has a selection for me to look at fingers crossed

Riva scratch built boat update by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Crew picture for Riva boat.

japanese crew figuers by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Doug , All the Leprechauns I ever met were quite tall ,saying that it was always on St Patrick's day and seen through Guinness coloured glasses so their authenticity might be questioned 👍.Cheers Marky

japanese crew figuers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi nutrunner, you could try repainting these Delivery men! They are 1:43. http://www.peoplescale.com/Delivery-Men-143-P-65311.htm There are other 1:43 and 1:48 / 50 figures on this site as well. The Japanese are 'little people' anyway. Not to be confused with the Leprechauns! 😉 Cheers Doug

japanese crew figuers by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Italeri sell a really good set of PT boat crew figures but they're 1/35 scale. I had them on my 1/32 Perkasa, but I explained the size difference on the fact that the crew were Singaporeans and a bit on the short side http://www.jadlamracingmodels.com/italeri-elco-80-pt-boat- style='background-color:yellow;'>crew-5606-1-35-figures-model-kit/?CAWELAID=730003540000010265&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=40634717485&CATCI=pla-361955460207&CATARGETID=730003540000016519&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAiAp

japanese crew figuers by nutrunner Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
hi all, any of u out there have any Japanese sailors to crew my robbe torpedo PT-15 its a 1/40 scale boat, from the middle 1970s need a front gunner as well been in touch with quite a few model shops but no luck

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

NimH advice by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Alex They will be connected in series with the positive connected to the negative. I suggest you carefully cut off the heat shrink covering, taking care not to cut into the cells. You can then check each cells voltage. The nominal is 1.2v rising to 1.4v when charged. Any around 1v or less will never hold a charge so mark them with a marker pen. Hopefully it will be one of the end cells that has failed. On your type of pack the bottom of the battery (negative) will be in a metal case attached to the top (positive) of the next cell. I use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the cells (they are spot welded) and sometimes you can get the case off the bottom of the dud cell, leaving it attached to the positive of the next cell. I suggest you then charge the remaining good cells to see if they all take a full charge. If they are OK you can get a new cell or just make a lower voltage pack. I use a piece of stranded wire to repair the joint. You will need a 40+watt iron and some solder paste, and may need to scratch the battery case and pin for the solder to take. If you were careful with removing the heat shrink you can use it to cover the pack with a bit of electrical tape to make good. Please ask if you need any guidance with the process. I have been doing this for many years and may not have explained in enough detail if it's new to you. Do remember if the battery is charged it can short in its unwrapped state so do make sure you bench is uncluttered and kept clear of any metal objects. Good luck

Fish boxes by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 23 days ago
So sad when a boat and crew are lost... a small way I can pay my respects...

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 26 days ago
Paul Chilcott built this stunning floating replica of the 'Voyager of the Seas' in under 12 months. The hull was carved from a single block of blue foam. The detail on this cruise ship is remarkable and even features a climbing wall, 'flow rider' and outside cinema just as the full size vessel. Commentary provided by Steve Dean. MS Voyager of the Seas is the lead ship of the Voyager-class of cruise ships operated by Royal Caribbean International. Length: 311 m Capacity: 3,138 passengers Yard number: 1344 Cost: US$650 million Tonnage: 138,194 GT; 108,654 NT; 11,132 DWT Crew: 1,181 crew

Riva boat from scratch built by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Sorted out varnish problem on my almost finished Riva boat. Problem now is new crew wants honey and picnic breaks.

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Looking for crew for your Tiger were you?? 😉 BTW: if you're going to put a sound module in the Tiger tank and want genuine sound bites: start up, (running with squeaking tracks), and stop, idle, shut down, gun fire, heavy machine gun fire: I have a whole directory of such sounds in wav or mp3 format. Can send if you want. Cheers Doug 😎