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>> Home > Tags > crew

What do you think? by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
My first tug I worked on was made of wood! She's now retired and is a museum piece! Built in 1932 with a GM 6110 Diesel. My Capt had me polish. The only thing made of brass. Was her ships bell! I spent 9 years polishing that bell. There's no way I want the crew of the Brooklyn. To remember me by Polishing brass!!!!😜

Crash Tender davit info... by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Martin. The 'Deck Anti-Slip Finish' bit is on page 4 near the top. Re: Colours. As there seem to be no colour photographs or film of the boats the question of colours for the decks, cabins and roofs is open to speculation but you are quite correct to point out that the plans do not specify white for anything other than the hull markings. The cabin roofs I believe would indeed have a textured coating as the crew were required to stand on them to operate the monitors etc. but I decided not to replicate the texture as is would just look like a bad paint job! I did carefully consider the colour options when painting my boat and decided to texture the deck and paint it in the colour specified ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ but to leave the cabin roofs untextured and painted white as that seems to be the consensus, and to my eye it does look 'right'. It is also a great shame, as you say, that one of the most popular RAF boats were so few in numbers and not well documented or photographed during their service life. I have a suspicion that a book of drawings and specifications does exist somewhere as I have seen a few pages that appear to have 'Ministry of Supply' indexes and page references. The 'Plans & Docs' section of this site has some useful information and some 'photos and drawings but they are of very poor quality and resolution. Wouldn't it be nice if whoever has that resource were to make it generally available, I believe it's out there somewhere. We can only hope. Robbob.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi. Thanks for your comments. Before I started the BB did some canvassing of the net to find other builders. The drivetrain remarks were particularly interesting. The consensus seems to be that building three screws, as is scale and as I am determined to do, is the most complex and that for performance it is better using either single or two. Once deviating from scale bigger propellers also work better. I have rather limited my options with being determined to capture the original layout though. The vessel is being scratch built on a hull from MTBHulls, of which I am well pleased. The HK source is HobbyKing, often find their products are on backorder, but usually only take a few days to arrive. In this case have been advised it will be rather longer.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Rowen, Bad luck🤔 Not necessarily a short, maybe just very high current draw due to the 4500kV motors and a dodgy connection adding resistance. In the wet stuff you have of course a load on the propellers which you don't have on the bench/bank, hence the higher current draw through the ESCs. I did wonder before about the 3 x 4500kV !! Since I went brushless I always use only 3.5 or 4mm gold bullets to connect them to the ESCs. Suggest you do the same and remove the corrosion susceptible screw connections.😲 Surprised the motors weren't available😲 I recently bought some, also 28mm,and some EScs for my PTB and they were here in 4 days! Oops, sorry, did I buy the one's you wanted 🤔

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Council madness... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Councillors just don't like to admit that they 'Screwed Up' They're probably mortally afraid that 'The Duck Lady' will bash or poke 'em with her brolly! What was it the L. Cpl. in Dad's Army always said - "They don't like it up 'em you know'! 😁 Think I'll send this nit a résumé of how a modern country's administration handles such issues. This nonsense confirms my impression of the somewhat archaic attitudes still prevalent in UK local politics.🤔 Suspect that the 'Duck Lady' still feeds the poor things bread everyday 😲 BTW: Martin, great idea Go for it👍

Fairlead Bar by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
As the braces go on and off the winch drum, the go through a fairlead plate that's attached to, and moves with the winch, and guides the braces onto the correct drum so they don't get crossed. When the braces leave the fairlead they go off in various directions and angles which would actually prevent the winch servo from being able to slide fore-and-aft to maintain tension. A fairlead bar aft of the winches guides the braces straight to the winch fairleads to alleviate that problem. Originally this bar mounted on two knees and looking like a riding bit (or a hitching post for us horse folks) was wood with screw-eyes on top. These small eyes were to be replaced with larger ones when I found some. This was replaced with a metal bar with holes instead of eyes. This worked fine, but I was worried that it would unduly wear the brace lines over time and added too much friction to the system. Today I replaced the metal bar with a strip of plastic cut from a cutting board. This stuff looks like Teflon, but I don't think it actually is. My concern now is the line with saw into this thing. I think I will make one with sheaves instead of just holes that will cut the friction and ease my concerns about it damaging the lines or the lines damaging it. First I'll see how this one works out, and any wear that appears will tell me at what angle to install the sheaves in the new bar. If you're wondering why the new bar has so many fewer holes than the old one, it's because I reduced the braces from 5 pairs to 3 pairs. Only the tops'l yards are actively braced now.

Did a bit more by CB90 Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Added a flexi drive, after fining out they were permissible in the rules of our semi-scale racing it came from a spare boat and a rudder to the transom (not allowed to have extended rudders or surface drives) I picked a rudder on the transom also because I had a spare one kicking around (save some money) and I have had trouble with water ingress with rudder tubes at higher speeds. Also added trim tabs to the transom and a servo for the rudder. primed the superstructure and added a locking screw (plastic) to hold it in place.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Afternoon Pete, Not awesome 😉 just 'Been there - Done that'! Albeit on older versions. So; now we're getting somewhere. Good idea with the connector 👍 I plan to do that with mine as well. I took it apart to investigate adding smoke, lights and sound. And possibly a twin ESC rudder mixer. Project got shelved when I got deeply involved by a couple of renovation / conversion jobs. 🤔 You've inspired me to bump her up the 'To Do List' a ways 😉 Now we should be able to trace the wires back to the circuit board😊 Will send a Step by Step procedure tonight. Gotta go fix a rotten fence now 😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: I was also impressed with the quality and fit of the mouldings. Good tooling 👍 PPS: You may find this thread useful Neil has also been down a similar road. 'Jarvo' as well, who came up with some useful tips, esp re locations of hidden screws😉

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Good morning, guys. I got the pilot house roof off of my boat by using bits of advice from both of you. I looked closely at the seam where the roof attaches & sure enough found a very fine gap. Doug: I trimmed my fingernails just yesterday so my built-in scraper/screwdriver/seam separator, i.e. thumbnail, is too short to be of use for a while. Ed: Following your lead I carefully worked an ultra-thin blade into the seam & after about 30 seconds I had the roof off without damaging a thing. Excellent! I’m impressed at how well the roof presses in place. Only the paint had “glued” the roof on. Looking at the photo you can clearly see the ceiling bulb (white wires), which is the same kind used for HO scale & larger locomotive headlights, among other things. The blue wires near my thumb (notice the neatly-trimmed thumbnail) run up to the search light on the roof. You can also see the black & red & black & green wires running to the port & starboard side lights. I think I’ll add a multi-pin connector as part of my overall upgrade plan for the tug so that I can completely remove the roof if I want to without risking damage to those fine wires. Thanks again to both of you for your helpful guidance. You’re both awesome! Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
HI Guys, took me about 10 seconds to get the roof, which was grey not white, off my old 40MHz Southampton 😊 It wasn't glued on at all 😲 Just ran round the seam with my thumbnail and it popped off 😁 All the rest was screwed together. Only some of the detailing 'stuff' was glued. Some was just 'plugged in'. More later Pete, cheers Doug 😎

RAF ASR 1942 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2300g RAF ASR 1942 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2860 4050kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China water cooled 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: This kit is based on an RAF ASRL Boat and is formed of High Impact Styrene for you to add your own hardware and detail. Kit includes Hull/deck/superstructure/windscreen/clear gun covers/dinghy/boat stand/servo, motor mount and instructions. Approx Length 24in x 7in 1/35th scale. HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' as the cabin looks like a whale diving. The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

Pride of Hythe by jfstoker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Built from a Linkspan Model boat kit, with deck lighting and passengers and crew, sailed at St Georges Park, Kingswinford, West Midlands by Kingswinford Model Boat Club