Re Prop (or screw pitch) ... If the prop blade was a complete screw it would advance through a solid at the rate of NP, where P is the pitch of the blade (prop) and N the rotation speed (Revs) of the driving shaft. Therefore for given revs of the motor a coarser pitch will result in more speed. Conversely finer pitch = less speed. Which is why I suggested perhaps a 'scale' prop with finer pitch. Of course the above refers to motion through a solid. Ya gotta start somewhere😉 I can provide the maths for extrapolation to slip (slip ratio) in a fluid medium ..... if anyone's really interested 😉
Evenin' RH, I had the same suspicion about the prop form👍 I almost suggested trimming the boss as well. Also wondered about the dimensions given in the Dumas plan!? I've also never lost a prop fixed with Loctite. Must admit that this is not a problem I've come across before! I only have two boats with single screw. My Sea Scout, where I just replaced the rudder and prop in the positions my Dad built it with about 8mm clearance. And the Danish fish cutter I inherited from an Aunt. But that was so badly 'thrown together' that it needs a complete refit anyway. All my other ships have two, three or even four screws. Doug 😎
Hi Steve, I was afraid of that with the 160 quid set, but I can't say for sure as I only have the 1/350 version so I don't know yours in detail. Ask Model Dockyard for an idea of delivery time and if they can order it. Will take you a while to get to that stage anyway 😉 You can check out the Eduard sets here- https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/?stoken=429DC2EE&force_s... Site is safe; I checked it out at McAffee Labs / Web Advisor😉 I have also often ordered stuff from Czech shops, deck gun kit and crew for my U25 for instance, never had problems.👍 Attached are the instructions for the RN figures. They are relatively big, compared to the 1/600 and 1/350 that I use! So I reckon if you carefully rub the insides against a rubber cutting pad with something like the end of a small paintbrush handle you should be able to give them some 3D form. Have fun, and don't forget to hoover the floor BEFORE you start!!!! 🤔 At least one of my 1/600 quad Vickers machine gun mounts + parts have vanished into the workshop nirvana after a few hours fiddling 😡 Cheers Doug 😎
Thanks for the help Doug. The £160 set looks attractive but it seems to duplicate some of the photetch (eg, railings and funnel detail) in the original kit, do you know if this is the case? Also, have you any experience with the crew figures. Can you make the three dimensional when folded? Thanks. Steve
Getting fed up with struggling to the pond with my 54" fast attack craft, I visited Dean's Marine last Saturday with a view to getting a smaller warship kit, to make life easier. I had a conducted tour of the showroom by Ron and had almost decided on HMS Daring, at a mere 36" long, when he said that there were more kits in the shop, which I might like to see. And what did I come away with? - yes, 54" of the 1/200 scale HMS Hood. http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter2... I blame my mate, Octman (aka Chris), for allowing such an act of folly! I hope I have not bored you with my tale of woe, but for those who are still with me, my question relates to the fine detailing kits available. Some of them cost almost as much as the original kit, but my main objective is to have a wooden deck. Does anyone know where I can purchase a good quality deck on its own? I am also looking for 1/200 figures for the crew. Thank you Steve
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.
Evenin' Colin, Yep, the Böhler stuff seems to be built like the proverbial 'brick s**t house' 😉 You shouldn't have any import tax / duty to pay as long as UK is still in the EU! Same goes for me ordering stuff the other way round, so I'm stocking up a bit (Component Shop, Deans etc) before Theresa and co screw everything up for us🤔 Cheers Doug 😎 Just a thought: if push comes to shove then for such small items I could order them here and send on by post! Hope it doesn't come to that but you never know with the current crop of politicians, both sides of the Channel! The mess the Germans have made over the last 5 months reminds me of Italy, but then they change governments more often - but much much quicker. More practice I suppose 😉
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape.
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..
This truly stunning piece was created by Barry Sharman of Southampton International Plastic Modellers’ Society (IPMS UK). A replica of the HMCS Agassiz with a mind boggling level of detail not only on the outside but also on the inside visible through cut out sections of the hull. Barry invited me to see the other side of the model and was amazed to see several crew members restoring that side. Spectacular and no wonder it was protected by a glass case that Barry kindly removed so I could film it without chance of picking up any reflections.