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October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
About a month ago I came across a wooden model of a Side Trawler by the name of ‘Maartje’ dating from what I assume was the Sixties. It is 84 cm long (33 inches) with a beam of 19cm (7.75 inches). The then owner had found it in a poor state and had reconstructed and painted to a large degree, but then turned to model trains. It was not known whether it was a ‘kit’ or ‘scratch’ built but he had however found it was a model of a boat, UK 223, lost with all hands in the North Sea off Texel (NL) in 1967 thought to be registered in Diss UK.. I am aware that such a tragedy is not uncommon with sea fishermen but I had never come across a model of such a boat. I had some time on my hands so I started to make enquiries and I was surprised how helpful people were. I had contacted the Dutch Embassy in UK, the Press Association in Netherlands and the Texel Tourist Information Centre. Within a very short time I had responses not just from those sources but also from others they had contacted. A major response was from the Embassy with the names of the crew of five, some were never recovered and important, was information from the Harbour Master of the Port of Urk, Netherlands confirming the boat was registered there and who then contacted the son of the captain of the ‘Maartje’ and gave him my contact details. I am pleased to say the captain’s son Jauwk contacted me and we are now in frequent communication. So we now know the date of the loss, the sea area, weather conditions names of the crew and results of the enquiry. Also very personal and emotional information including the fact that two of the crew were father and son and that the captain’s wife was carrying his son, Jauwk at the time of the loss. You never know what this hobby may lead you into. NPJ.
Hi all, just made a carry case for the Crash Tender which should prevent damage to all the sticky out bits when I glue em on. White faced hardboard, framed with 1x1 free packing timber from the wood yard and screws bought for 50p a box from a boot fair. Handles will be rope from the same wood yard, so that the whole box is carried, not just the top board. Ally scrap cut on the bandsaw and bent to shape in the workmate so that the front panel is the slide-in "lid". Stands will be made for the boat and foam glued in to protect edges. Martin
The crew are currently bathed in silicon rubber, awaiting casting in resin. Here's the boat needing windows and fittings and a little tiddivating on the paint front. And the carry case, awaiting the slide-in front and a handle. Martin
Your more than welcome TJ. Re paragraphs etc; was a well meant 'Word to the Wise', just to make your interesting contributions easier to read. 😉 Keep up the good work👍 Which configuration did you decide on in the end? On my single screw boats, like my Sea Scout, I tend to just use the BEC from the ESC and no separate RX battery. On my multi screw ships, the majority actually, from two to four screws (PTB to HMS Belfast cruiser) I always use a separate RX battery. On the basis that I reckon that the drive battery already has enough to do 😉 So I use 4.8 or 6V NiMh batteries of around 1500 to 2000mAh. Always put a switch between the batt and the RX. Also a switch and a fuse, approx 5A lower than the ESC max current rating, between the drive battery and the ESC(s). All the best, Doug 😎
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?t... I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.
[Score: 8/10] 38"/6000g Cygnus Revenge 38 Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 800 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (12v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks 40 x2 (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Models by design Cygnus Revenge 38. Made strong to tow lures. Twin screw, twin esc, twin rudder. Nice speed on the water, not excessive! and very stable in chop.
Adriansfigures are no longer trading, Adrian sold to Mountfleet who took all his mouldings and have now produced more, cannot find figures on their website, but they have them at the many shows they attend, might be worth giving them a call.😊 http://www.mountfleetmodels.co.uk/
My friend lived in a very similar house in Suffolk, dating back to the 14th C. He couldn't afford the cost of thatch insurance, so had it redone in second hand pegtiles. Looked lovely. We had to burn 25 tons of old mucky thatch that had lived under the corrugated tin for years. All in one long weekend! Martin