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>> Home > Tags > crew

crew
crew
Chris Craft 63' by Brightwork Lieutenant   Posted: 13 hours ago
Kit from Sterling Boats that came out in the late 50's Electric drive twin screw.

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
NP, the motors have "light" wiring because thats all they need, low current draw, the esc/mixer is designed for use with large motors as well, so heavy wires heavy current draw. Doug, aka, RN, is right, check all you have done, both in stages and just before you switch on for the first time. I fried an ESC yesterday by simply screwing the supply leads in the wrong way round. POP, few wisps of magic smoke and £50 down the drain. Check and re-check helps to stop the disappointment. Mark

Twin Esc/Mixer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
The large protusion will be the heat sinks for the power Mosfets. Looks like a cardboard spacer in between to protect during transit.The case top with slots will fit over the plates to protect. The green screw connections are for the motors. You take the two motor leads and insert into the connectors and tighten the screws. If the motor(s) run in the wrong direction just swop over the leads for the relevant connectors(s). The two black and red wires are for the separate battery supplies. Make sure you connect the red to positive and the black to negative and its is advisable to fit an inline fuse (=

Sea Queen by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍 On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there! My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲 Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎

progress by tomarack Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
in my case the first crew member was a dog -" Heinz 57 breed"

Albion by Baggie Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
Added a towing dinghy... just in case the onboard crew need it...Ha!👍

progress by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi. Looking good. Are you happy that you won't get any water ingress? It looks like the tightening screw will be below the waterline. Edward

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Radiosailor I was not familiar with the model so have just searched. The Tug forum http://modeltugforum.com/ has an article by a member who did some mods. If you register you can see the pics and ask for advice. Regarding fixed or steerable nozzles they both work better than a standard prop. For maximum effect the steerable works best and this will certainly be the case with a single prop. I have had both types on tugs but mine were twin screw and I could turn both on the spot with independent motor control. From the motors you have I suspect the Xdrive 555 may have the best torque which as Doug said is best for Tugs. There are several suppliers but without knowing any measurements it's difficult to point you to a specific site. It should make into a nice model and will certainly look the part on the water. If you look on Model Slipiway's web site http://www.modelslipway.com/ they have a kit Al Khubar and AZIZ which are twin Kort. There are links to build blogs for the AZIZ which may be useful. Model Boats and MMI also had featured articles on builds for Al Khubar.

First real sea trial by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Where's the bird? Did the crew barbecue it? 😲 Very nice boat, congrats👍 BTW: Nice to see a boat from Folkestone, my birth town 😊

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

PROBOAT WESTWARD 18 by Les-Forbes Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
PROBOAT WESTWARD 18: Anyone know if there should be a small nut at the end of this screw.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Removing the Deck............ Should have said before, note when removing these screws they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes and putting them in a lidded container. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks, it requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pic 8. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 11.(not got the hang of this yet!) What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pics 9/10. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

First real sea trial by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Well I think she looks perfect! Sat well in the water and was dry inside. Crew were not concerned even after a close up chat with a bird!

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Neil, so far so good👍 My version is the Southampton, same hull and deck, including well hidden screws😡 but the older 40Mhz version without any special effects. So my answer to the 'Why change its' and 'It won't fits' is - If HobbyKing can do it why can't I? - and better! For a decent and inexpensive 6ch T/RX set I can from personal experience recommend the Turnigy HT-6 or TGY i6 or similar from HobbyKing for around 45-50 dollars 42 pounds from UK or EU warehouse. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-tgy-i6-afhds-transmitter... Very versatile and easy to program, i.e. kill all the aircraft and heli widgets🤔 This set (and similar) was discussed in depth elsewhere here on the site. Look under 'Tank steering' ! model-boats.com/forum/electrical-related/31948?goto=32011 Happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!