Hi Norm, Norm (!) Oughs drawing may well be 'as built'. During the war she received many mods. Depends on the time snapshot you want to recreate. I may be wrong about the island (photo perspective) but it seemed that way. I remember standing on the topmost island deck of a Colossus class carrier, at the foot of the antenna mast, looking down at ants crawling about on the deck, and the even smaller ones on the dockside! 😉 I was up there inspecting the COMMS antenna fit. That was my job the last 30 odd years. On existing ships I would survey the COMMS systems for upgrades and refits. For new build ships I would discuss the requirements and possibilities with the navies and then discuss with the shipyards how to achieve them! All good stuff, but the last 10 years I was getting a bit stiff for the climbing, so I sent a younger colleague up while I discussed the existing system and any problems with the crew in the Wardroom😉 Can't see your pic, the site only accepts jpgs etc🤔 An irritation that has often cost me time to do conversions 😡 We'll have to 'gang up' on Fireboat (Stephen) to get this improved. i often wanted to upload a pdf page, but had to convert to jpg etc first😭 Where is this mysterious platform? Maybe I can find it. A large searchlight would not surprise me. Could also be an early radar antenna, need to research the types mentioned above. If the launch has a cabin it may be an 'Admirals Barge', and Admirals had a lot of freedom to paint them how they wanted. So black and mahogany sounds very appropriate to me 👍 Often said on this site (and elsewhere) but: 'The only silly question is the one you don't ask'! Keep up the good work, Doug 😎
Some info. on radar, armament and wartime mods! 'Ya pays ya money and yer takes yer choice'! 😎 "Armament, electronics and protection The main armament of the Illustrious class consisted of sixteen quick-firing (QF) 4.5-inch (110 mm) dual-purpose guns in eight twin-gun turrets, four in sponsons on each side of the hull. The roofs of the gun turrets protruded above the level of the flight deck to allow them to fire across the deck at high elevations. The gun had a maximum range of 20,760 yards (18,980 m). Her light anti-aircraft defences included six octuple mounts for QF 2-pounder ("pom-pom") anti-aircraft (AA) guns, two each fore and aft of the island and two in sponsons on the port side of the hull. The 2-pounder gun had a maximum range of 6,800 yards (6,200 m). The completion of Illustrious was delayed two months to fit her with a Type 79Z early-warning radar; she was the first aircraft carrier in the world to be fitted with radar before completion. This version of the radar had separate transmitting and receiving antennas which required a new mainmast to be added to the aft end of the island to mount the transmitter. The Illustrious-class ships had a flight deck protected by 3 inches (76 mm) of armour and the internal sides and ends of the hangars were 4.5 inches (114 mm) thick. The hangar deck itself was 2.5 inches (64 mm) thick and extended the full width of the ship to meet the top of the 4.5-inch waterline armour belt. The belt was closed by 2.5-inch transverse bulkheads fore and aft. The underwater defence system was a layered system of liquid- and air-filled compartments backed by a 1.5-inch (38 mm) splinter bulkhead. Wartime modifications While under repair in 1941, Illustrious's rear "round-down" was flattened to increase the usable length of the flight deck to 670 feet (204.2 m). This increased her aircraft complement to 41 aircraft by use of a permanent deck park. Her light AA armament was also augmented by the addition of 10 Oerlikon 20 mm autocannon in single mounts with a maximum range of 4,800 yards (4,400 m). In addition the two steel fire curtains in the hangar were replaced by asbestos ones. After her return to the UK later that year, her Type 79Z radar was replaced by a Type 281 system and a Type 285 gunnery radar was mounted on one of the main fire-control directors. The additional crewmen, maintenance personnel and facilities needed to support these aircraft, weapons and sensors increased her complement to 1,326. During her 1943 refits, the flight deck was modified to extend its usable length to 740 feet (225.6 m), and "outriggers" were probably added at this time. These were 'U'-shaped beams that extended from the side of the flight deck into which aircraft tailwheels were placed. The aircraft were pushed back until the main wheels were near the edge of the flight deck to allow more aircraft to be stored on the deck. Twin Oerlikon mounts replaced most of the single mounts. Other twin mounts were added so that by May she had a total of eighteen twin and two single mounts. The Type 281 radar was replaced by an upgraded Type 281M, and a single-antenna Type 79M was added. Type 282 gunnery radars were added for each of the "pom-pom" directors, and the rest of the main directors were fitted with Type 285 radars. A Type 272 target-indicator radar was mounted above her bridge. These changes increased her aircraft capacity to 57 and caused her crew to grow to 1,831. A year later, in preparation for her service against the Japanese in the Pacific, one starboard octuple "pom-pom" mount, directly abaft the island, was replaced by two 40 mm Bofors AA guns; which had a maximum range of 10,750 yards (9,830 m). Two more twin Oerlikon mounts were added, and her boilers were retubed. At this time her complement was 1,997 officers and enlisted men. By 1945, accumulated wear-and-tear as well as undiagnosed shock damage to Illustrious's machinery caused severe vibrations in her centre propeller shaft at high speeds. In an effort to cure the problem, the propeller was removed, and the shaft was locked in place in February; these radical measures succeeded in reducing, but not eliminating, the vibrations and reduced the ship's speed to about 24 knots (44 km/h; 28 mph).["
Hi again, here the best pic I have of the port side, date unknown. Shows your two platforms but no weapons discernable 🤔 The round one may simply have been a refuge for deck crew when things got hectic or they were under attack. Saw such refuges on the old Colossus class carrier in Brazil, also used one once😲 It's now past midnight so Goodnight from Munich, Cheers Doug 😎 Forgot to mention; the build is looking very good, such a shame she'll never move 😱
Hi Wayne, Yep! Uses two sticks instead of just one! For independent control of two motors; port / starboard. Or more e.g. four screw carrier model; Two each side! Expensive on ESCs and the wiring can get complicated but very manoeuvrable. Just like a tank driver has independent control of his tracks. I think I will experiment more with mixer boards to support the rudder on my twin, triple and four screw monsters 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS where have you incarcerated poor Donald?? 🤔 😭
started the painting so will keep it under wraps until the great unvail ,one question does anyone know what scale it is ? I think its 1:35ish was wanting to put some crew on board ,might try 3D printing again
Hi Dave Wow! What a treasure chest. 👍 I have a few, mostly rescued from old video recorders. Next time an accu drill or screwdriver or whatever packs up must remember to strip the motor (and gears?). Many years ago in Conrad looking at their motor selection there was big box of mini low voltage motors so I, in my naivety I bought a bundle for peanuts. Several years later I realised they were surplus from vibrator dildo production! 😲 Was a pain grinding the damn weights off the shafts 🤔 You live and learn. Keep up the good works, Cheers Doug 😎
Good pics 👍 At first look I would say two are identical, the 'mucky' one without the outer jacket (improves the magnetic field) is probably not. Even if it is the same type without the jacket it will not perform the same. Proof of the pudding will be in the testing, preferably with a Watt meter. The red dot signifies the positive terminal for normal (forward) rotation as brushed motors have a preferred direction due to the brush wear - Bedding In! Many don't like running backwards for long periods or at high speed. The fact that the mucky one has a gear fitted also hints that it may have different parameters. For a twin screw setup I would use the two with jackets and see how she runs with all trims set to neutral. I'll see if I can trace the type/serial number visible on the mucky one. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug...it's this one: and no that little issue is still ongoing...have changed my Tx/Rx/ESC to Turnigy....the Mtroniks ESC's I was using were 'compromised' regarding the set-up...I now have a programmable card to set up my ESC's - The Dauntless has been converted to a Police launch, it's a twin screw using two Electronize ESC's.....just needs a Tx/Rx and batteries, possibly looking at lead acid x2
Hi Dave, sounds good to me 👍 I'm going to try the 'tank' method on my Graf Spee, ca 5ft, twin screw or my destroyer. No Warp engines though (ran out of dilithium crystals!) 🤔 Belfast, 4ft plus, has 4 screws so offers more scope! Outers for cruising and 'power steering', inners to surprise the ATR 'sport' boats!!?? Now looking for some miniature ESCs (5 to 10A) for my multi-screw plastic magics, ranging from 30 to 90 cm and all long and thin! Typical naval ship form. Will probably end up with Viper Micros and Micron radio for the smaller ones. Hope the rain holds off for you, sunny and warm 28°C here so on with the sanding 😡 and sealing! Cheers Doug 😎
Only if you put a blocking diode (rated for the BEC max current) in the positive (red) BEC lines to stop the BECs feeding back into each other. Otherwise you may damage one or both of the ESCs. Not quite sure how the RX would react but I think it would be OK (may depend on the manufacturer /type) and you would have the double current capacity available for servos and functions. Test it on the bench first !! Generally speaking you are right, and this is a problem I might be facing shortly with my twin screw destroyer Hotspur and quad screw cruiser Belfast! The more elegant way of course is to fit a Fail Safe switch which connects either the other ESC supply or a separate battery if the primary source fails. Such switch modules are available (at least here in Germany!) for a few quid. Cheaper than a damaged or wrecked boat! BTW: was the RX still doing anything? Rudder control? Not quite sure why the stbd ESC shut down if the fault was in the port unit! Cheers Doug 😎 PS That's one of the reasons I prefer a separate RX batt when space and weight allow!
Hi Dave, to a private citizen you are quite correct! I do not buy from private citizens on Ebay. I checked the supplier through the German & Austrian Handelskammer (Chamber of Commerce) via a secure link which can be checked via the German IT Security Ministry. Don't know what the set up is in England these days but a bank transfer (Überweisung) here is protected, electronically receipted and can easily be reversed if something goes wrong. 😊 I also tend to use only those suppliers which are listed under 'Trusted Shops' for expensive items - highly recommendable. No, in my case it was maybe Ebay who screwed up because the payment did not go through them, supplier forget to tell them ? or an opportunist was trying to cash in. What ever, a quick call to the supplier confirmed the payment (I had long since received the goods) and Ebay shut up. I was not a victim! Too long in the tooth for that 😉 I also find that Ebay (and Amazon) are rarely the economic option. Ebay I only use for stuff I can't find anywhere else. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Whatever way you pay Ebay somehow the cash goes by wire! No one carts around suitcase of notes anymore, not even the Mafia apparently😉 I know you were in banking (Systems Analyst?) but where does one draw the line? It's always a leapfrog race between providers, banks etc and hackers 🤔 I use the checks available and don't open suspect mails. Where possible I trace the sender address, if I'm curious enough 😉 So far I only lost €3 to a Chinese 'shop', part of a larger Amazon order for various tools. It never arrived and Emails were not answered so I wrote it off to experience (Lerngeld - Learning money as the Germans say!) and put the shop on my Blacklist. 😎
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne
Hi Ron Its food wrap as shown by Doug. I am posting some pics of a very rough set up to illustrate the process. I have used some white tissue to illustrate the white bath sealant but I think you will get the idea. The mounting blocks need to be wide enough to take any screw fixing you choose to use and can be mounted direct to the hull. Make a plate shaped to the motor diameter to hold and use some soft rubber or similar in between the plate and motor. Dont place this until the silicon has set and you have refitted the motor. I align by connecting the motor to the shaft and gently pushing into the silicon until level. Use a low voltage battery to make sure it runs freely. Then leave to set, could be a couple of days if cold before carefully removing the motor with film. Remove film and refit. As mentioned make sure any cooling holes on the motor are not blocked. Hope this helps but please ask if you need clarification. Dave