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Hi Dave, One lives and learns 😉👍 I'll check this for this effect (bench tests!) with the kit (Graupner Navy V30) I'm building into my Belfast and Graf Spee, but up to now with brushed and 'conventional' ESCs I've not noticed it. Not got into brushless yet, but might do soon for Dad's old Sea Scout, which is my only single screw boat. Agree with the same settings philosophy, I do the same. Watch this space! 😎
A little bit more cockpit detailing....there's quite a lot to do in there and I want it to look as good as some of the inspiring examples that I have seen on other boats...sorry if I have stolen your ideas 😜 The cockpit steps were made from some 12mm x 3mm mahogany strip that I made up from some 10mm strip glued together and then cut down to the required width. The supplied drawing was to the correct scale so I was able to use this as a template, but one of the legs of each ladder needs to be slightly longer on one side because of the curvature of the tow-hook deck onto which the ladders are fixed. The treads were cut to the correct width and length and the forward edge rounded slightly. After marking the correct height of the treads on the sides I drilled some small holes through the sides into the treads for some 1mm brass rod to reinforce the glued joint. The steps were assembled using superglue and the brass rod helped to keep the piece square and true as the glue set. The protruding brass rod was then cut and filled flush with the sides. After a light sanding a mahogany stain was applied to enhance the colour and then few costs of satin lacquer sprayed to give the final finish. The steps will be fixed through the deck with some hex head wood screws from the underside so that they meet the bulkhead at the upper end without any fixing. I think they have come out quite well 😁. I'm making the foam tanks just at the moment....and I thought the steps were fiddly !! 😲
Well, I know I said I would be using older motors, but I think keeping them for older (non speed) boats is maybe the sensible thing to do, but the main reason for what I'm sure you'll all consider to be the obvious answer is that this weekend, my NiCad powered drill gave up the ghost, or rather its ancient batteries did, and unknown to me so did my son-in-law's! So suddenly I had 2 big ol' brushed moderns, but more than that, ESCs correctly matched to the motors as both drills have speed controls AND forward, neutral, reverse switches (and little finned gizmos which I take to be heat sinks) so what defense have I now against the "use modern stuff" brigade? I shall keep my older Taycols, SELs and Basset-Lowkes in period correct hulls. So, the question is.....is there any reason why I shouldn't use the speed controllers that come with the drills and is there any harm in running the motors at less than the voltage they run at in the drill function? After all, I won't be doing up any 3" screws with these boats! Cheers, Martin
Alan a fleet admiral & you don't know what dead eyes are. Or have I spelt it wrong? They are on top of the chain plates & bottom of shrouds pulled together by rope threaded through the holes, to tension the shrouds. Hatches the hold & deck house no problem, but needed one near the bow. A strip of rubber stuck between 2 strips of balsa form the seal. The rubber from a split windscreen wiper. The hatch planks project at the front so hatch slides under. The back screwed down by dolly winch. The present state of play.
The tow hook stays brace the tow hook by tying the tow hook deck to the keel to transfer the load when the boat is towing a seaplane and is a simple structure on the full size boat but as scale feature is quite tricky to reproduce. It also has to be made to allow the rear well deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. so this took a bit of thinking about how to make it easily removable.🤔 As my brass working skills seem to be improving I decided to make this in brass for strength and durability. Mike Cummings at Vintage Model Works had previously very generously supplied me with a set of drawings which included the tow hook detail and these were of great help in the making process.👍😊 First I marked out the fixing plate on some 22 gauge brass and cut and filed it to the correct shape and then two pieces of 6mm brass tube cut to the correct angle where they meets the plate. After some measurement and geometric juggling the cockpit deck was marked with the positions of the holes that the bracing stays pass through and I used my brass ‘cookie cutter’ to make two neat holes through the decking planks for the flanges that the stays pass through but in this case the tubes will finish just below deck level to allow it to be removed. These flanges were made from some 14swg brass plate, filed to a circular shape and with the centre hole pierced and filed to an angle for the tube to pass through with a small clearance gap to allow them to hinge on the two brass pins that I drilled and inserted into the flanges. This hinging feature allows the towing stay assembly to hinge back slightly to aid removal. I drilled the upper ends of the tubes where they meet the fixing plate to take two brass pins that will hold the parts securely in place while soldering and two temporary brass bracing pieces were then soft soldered to the tubes to hold them at the correct angles and separation. All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and assembled and silver soldered together and then the soft soldered braces were removed and the whole assembly cleaned up with abrasive and wire wool. Two false bolt heads were soft soldered to the plate to add a finishing detail, the centre fixing is a cap head threaded screw that fixes the assembly to the cockpit bulkhead. I sprayed two light coats of etch primed and when dry brush painted the whole piece with two coats of ‘gun metal’ grey. Happily the part sits perfectly in place on the deck and hinges back easily as intended so that removal and re-fitting is simple…unlike the process involved in conceiving and making the part 🤓
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.
Alas, he talks a lot about old motors, but doesn't use them as such. I want to use mine, at least to try them out before I give up and go all buggy motor. (I call all cylindrical Jap motors "Buggy motors"). It's easier than remembering all the fancy numbers. Buggy or drill motors. I have an electric screwdriver whose batteries are pretty much dead, so there's another motor to go with the minidrill motors I already have! The way I see it is I used to use these old British motors years ago and they always worked, so why not now? I have them and I don't want them sitting on a shelf and I don't want to buy new Jap stuff or ESCs. Failing that, the boats will go on the shelf as show queens and I'll go all wind powered. I have a Veron Veronica, a one-off Dorade GRP hull of considerable age and a vintage Marblehead once owned by Sir Thomas Lipton. Oh and a partly built hull of a Victorian "Plank-on-edge" gaff cutter on which I used to live. Sounds like I need to sort my stuff out! Thanks for all the help. If anyone needs any help with things like mahogany speedboats, deck fittings, etc. please pick my brains. Cheers, Martin
As supplied, the tow hook consists of two rather ugly lumps of metal that need to be coupled together, and a further piece, the ‘chafing plate’ which is not supplied, made to complete the fitting. I started be adding some detail to the main component in the form of some steel rod to represent the lever mechanism and operating handle. The body of the tow hook then has to be attached to the retaining plate with an articulated coupling which I made from some brass tube, copper wire and a 2mm nut & bolt. The retaining plate was also drilled to take some 2mm cap head screws for fixing through the tow hook deck. The finished piece, which now looks a bit more like the drawings and photographs, was brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey and a piece if heat shrink added to the handle as a grip. The chafing plate was formed from some 4mm square plasticard rod which was immersed in boiling water to soften it sufficiently for it to be bent to the required radius. The bending process unfortunately distorts the profile so this was restored and improved by rubbing it flat on some coarse abrasive paper. A piece of plasticard sheet was marked and cut to a corresponding radius to form the base of the chafing plate and some further plasticard wedges added to form the end stops. This piece was also pained gun metal grey. The chafing plate is fixed to the deck with 2 cap head screws and I also set a brass pin into the centre position which locates into a hole in the underside of the tow hook to hold it in place. Next on the list of fittings is the davit 😁
Decided to sail the Solent so took some video to share. Uses 2 Bhuler 12v brushed motors with 4 bladed 45mm PropShop props and 12v 12AHr SLA. Twin Electronize ESCs. Radio is Futaba 6Ex but I will probably change to the Taranis so I can get better control using some bespoke Tx settings to co-ordinate the props and rudder. Lifeboat crewe had been on a night out so not quite vertical. Aplogies for the shaky video, it's difficult to sail and video at the same time.
German fighter submarines 70 years. I got ABS hull from a kit from Graupner, I redid four shafts, and I put the rest of ABS and laminate according to plans. The actuator motor 4 pieces 400, 2 pieces LiPol 4000 mA, the air cooling engine. The length of the ship is 110 cm. Screws 4 pcs 20th. Still under construction
Hi and welcome to the site. If you are considering using an IC in the model I suggest you find a local club or water where you can sail. Many local authority waters prohibit IC engines. I see you recently asked for details of a club in Torquay and note that we do have a club registered (Model Boat Clubs) as Torbay and District MBC. You could try sending a pm to one of the members registered as sailing there and ask for details. Good looking crew! Dave
I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £600. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.