Bought another boat last week, needed running gear apart from the twin motors and rear servo. So I bought a new Tx/Rx and a new ESC....I used a NiCad battery 1500....now I didn't charge the battery so it could be something as simple as that. The Rx was already bound to the Tx so all I had to do was make the connections and off we go. Nothing!!! Neith rudders nor screws moved a millimeter.....battery problem? There was enough charge to light the ESC and Rx. How long do they hold their charge roughly? Thanks.....
I've kept a log of this build on RCGroups forums since 2009. We share experiences, brainstorm ideas, and help each other out with a lot of the idiosyncrasies of RC square-rig sailing. A fellow there named Dan and I had a long running discussion on dealing with slack in the braces when there are prototypically mounted near the ends of the yards. This discussion led to the sliding winch. The winch servo, unaltered in any way, is mounted on Delrin blocks with holes through which pass a pair of brass rods. The winch can slide fore and aft on theses rods. A pair of aluminum angle hold the ends of the rods so the servo is off the deck and can move freely. A pair of spring are on the rods to provide tension by pushing against the winch. When the yard is square across the model, the servo is pressing on the spring(s). As the yard is turned, the spring pushes the winch back on the rods taking up any slack in the braces. I mounted everything on a pallet again, keeping it modular so I can get at things, and easily take them out if need be. While assembling it, one of the winches started acting strange. I replaced it with another one, which required, removing the winch drum screw and drum; unplugging the servo from the receiver; loosening 4 screws that hold the winch to the slide-blocks; then do all that in reverse to put in the new winch. I also got Servo-Stretchers that increase the the sail-arm servo's range from 90° to 180° and allow adjustment of the center position. You'll notice two servo-trays in the pictures; the other one is for the Macedonian frigate model. As the year went on, I installed bumpkins for and aft. Got some gold dry-transfer lettering and put her name on her stern. Made t'gallant/royal masts.Made a servo arm for the rudder servo that had cleats to allow steering cable adjustment. And installed fairleads for the running rigging below. All things that had to get done in order to put the spardeck on.
After the sail I tried to figure out how to make the chain plates. The links below the channel are easy enough, but the doubled rod strap that wraps the deadeye was (and is) giving me headaches. I was originally going to bolt the chainplates to the hull, but instead I intend to use round-headed brass wood screws, and I've installed oak strips inside the hull to give them something to bite into. You may recall I'm modeling the ship as she was new, when her portrait was painted in 1856. There's nearly nothing showing what her stern looked like but one etching done of her in dry-dock in Boston in 1859 when she returned from her first cruise. Several painting of her contemporaries show very similar stern ornamentation. I already had the moldings applied based on the drydock drawing, now I made the three rosettes she still carries today - her "constellation of stars." My first attempt was too think and bulky, so I started fresh with a bit of boxwood, and used styrene to apply details. Once done, it got a coat of primer and then I pressed it into clay to make molds for the casting resin. If I had a "Constellation Restaurant" my butter pads would all be molded like this :) Checking into the fashion of the day for depicting stars and things astronomical, I painted the stars gold on a royal blue background. They were then epoxied to the hull and quarter galleries. Soon after, I lost my job of 18 years, and about a year later had to move out of the house and in with my girlfriend. The models literally went on the shelf. She sat on top of a cabinet for nearly a year when I got an invite from the director of Historic Ships Baltimore to bring the model to the Baltimore Port Expo celebrating National Maritime Day.
Hi Colin I use a solid alloy 5mm to 4mm coupling with one grub screw for the motor and one for the prop shaft. The silicon IC fuel tubing is my safety device stopping the prop shaft dropping in to the wet stuff. Also I notch the prop shaft for better grub screw grip. I could have had the coupling sitting over frame 3 as the dash centre sloops back, this would give more motor room or a longer motor. I think the 3639-1100kv at 800 watts on 3S will give the boat a good turn of speed.
Hi All Installing the drive line and motor mount with a simple alloy bracket. The motor mount alignment tool is my design and grub screws onto the prop shaft with mounting holes for 28 and 35mm motors. Can add more mounting holes if required.
Initially, control of the sails, or rather the yards from which the sails hang, was going to be done with sail-winch servos; one for the yards of the foremast, another for the yards of the main and the mizzen mast combined. Each controlled yard would have two drums, one to take up it's braces as the other payed them out. The controlled yards would be the fore course and tops'l yards, the main course and tops'l yards, and the mizzen coss-jack. This meant the main/mizzen had 6 drums and the fore mast winch had 4. The drums diameter corresponded their yards as each brace was of a different length because of the distance from the centerline that the brace was attached to the yard. Since each brace was being controlled by one winch turning at the same speed, the difference had to be made up in the drum diameter. The flanges separating the drums were compact-discs (CDs). The point where the brace attached to the yard describes part of a circle as the yard is turned. The winch drums too, are circles, but the brace from the yard to the point it turns down to the deck, is a vector. Because of this, both braces are tight when the yard is squared, but as it turns to one side, the take-up side stays taught while the paying out side goes slack. Slack on a winch drum is not a good thing, so some means of taking out any slack has to be devised. At this point I was going to mount springs on posts in the hull. They would maintain tension on the braces all the time. The two winches and a sail-arm servo that would control the heads'ls and driver, were all mounted on a tray, or pallet, that would be screwed to the mechanical deck. One winch had to be mounted higher than the other so the drums and braces wouldn't interfere. The real ship's yards were/are attached to the masts and pivoted on iron "patent trusses." I made my facsimile of them from aluminum with brass #2 screws, nuts, and eye-bolts I bent and threaded from brass rod. The clevis between the yard and the mast is 1/4" aluminum rod drilled through and shaped.
The model's lower masts are made of white cedar. These were cut square, a taper hand-planed in, made 8-sided, then round. The bands are the same brown paper tape the hull was covered in. A visit to the real ship in Baltimore to get measurements, and look at some artifacts netted me some bits of live oak original to the ship. The Navy began stockpiling live oak for ship-building in 1816 with the Gradual Increase Act. It was from these stockpiles that Constellation was built. These trees were as much as 200 years old when cut, so this wood I have could be as much as 400 years old. I wasn't sure how to incorporate this bit of the ship into the model, and opted to make the mast steps from it. One piece is the size of a business card and stamped USS Constellation 1854. I'll stamp the year she's finally finished and my name into that and install it as her builder's plate. The masts step on what I call her mechanical decks. These are simple 3/8" plywood panels where her mechanics and controls will be mounted. Beams were epoxied into the hull for them, and they are held in place with brass wood screws. The aft deck is where the mizzen steps and the rudder servo is mounted. The battery lies on it's own deck just abaft the main mast as low as it can possibly be inside the hull. The cross-section drawing shows deck beams, decks, ballast rods, the external ballast, etc etc etc. The rudder is made from Plexiglas as shown in it's drawing. A brass tube passes through the stern that the rudder's head just fits into. There's no room behind the rudder head for a bell-crank setup to work, so I again went with real boat tech and installed a tiller, made of copper plate soldiered to a set-collar. There's a couple of pictures of the aluminum tubes for the ballast rods in there. You may want to right-click on an image, like the drawings, and "View Image" then click on it to see it full size and legible. Use the browser's "back" button to get out of that.
The only thing you need is a prop driver attachment, bolts on with grub screws, prop size does not matter as you reame the prop hub to the correct diameter, dont get a small hub prop, get one designed to go on lecy drive
Excellent, thanks 👍You just saved me 15000 Euro 😉😉 Although his English history is a bit screwed up! Queen Victoria in 1702 ???? 🤔 I think he got the date of the Union a bit wrong as well. But so what? It's the model flags we want not a history lesson 😉😉
[Score: 5/10] 96"/18200g Pride of Baltimore Direct Drive to a 6v corless drill motor (2 Blade X Type) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: I helped build the original in 76, crewed on her in 81. The model is as she appeared in 1981
Here is my version. PM me if you want this and i'll send pictures and pdf with material list and detailed build instructions1/16th scale Fireboat Mast. MATERIALS LIST. Item A:- 1.6 Brass rod 45mm long. Item B:- 5mm dia brass Finial. (from dolls house shop) Item C:- 3mm Brass tube 47mm long. Item D:- 1.6mm x 4mm brass strip 64mm long. Item E:- 2 Off 3mm brass tube 68mm long. Method of build. Start by drilling Item B 1.6mm , then drill bottom 3.1mm x 2mm deep. Solder Items A,B, and C, together to form mast top. Then drill through Item B 90 degrees to mast with 1.2mmm drill for rigging line to pass through. Item D then needs shaping, by tapering on one edge only. 2mm at end to full 4mm x 26mm from end. Do this to both sides. (see sketch). Now drill centre 3.1mm and each end 1.2mm at 3mm from ends. Item E. Flatten one end to 10mm and opposite end to 8mm. Bend 10mm end to 120 degrees. Bend 8mm end to 150 degrees. Now trim 10mm end back to 5mm. Carefully radius 8mm end and then drill 2.2mm at 3mm from end. Now solder 2 x Items E to item D and locate mast top into centre hole and solder in place. The completed mast is held in place by two angle brackets which I slotted through cabin roof and glued with epoxy. These brackets need to be drilled and tapped m2. For the fixing screws 3mm from the top edge, then radius to smarten up.
Dear crewmembers, I'm based in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. This town is about 1 hour south from Munich. I'm looking to initiate a scale boat modeling group with folks within the region. Language, background, etc is not an issue. Just passion for the hobby and desire to show-off your boats or just to chat about anything boat-building. Please drop me a line if interested!
Well finally finished the actual boat and now ready for fit out Zenoah 26 cc marine engine arrived this morning and jet unit on its way so busy days ahead Got to make roll bars to scale yet probably use aluminium to save weight The engine develops 3.4 hp at 13000 revs so should give it a bit of punch 1/4 scale crew to order yet and some instruments for dash board Think I will have a wee break from it all for a while and give my mancave/ Messcave a bit of a tidy up lol
Hi Muddy, yep, they look a lot more robust and useful👍 I only knew the type help together with 2 screws, turned out to be 'use once and chuck away in frustration'😡 Must look around the tool shops again 😉 Cheers Doug 😎