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>> Home > Tags > crystal

Help with vintage rc. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
I think the Digimax had interchangeable crystals - but didn't it also have 4-wire servos? If so, you will need a full Digimax set.... In general, it is not a good idea to use Vintage equipment unless you know what you are doing. The kit will be old, could need maintenance or repair (which may not be easy to source) and will have less range, reliability and interference rejection capability than modern sets. It will be 27Mhz. You may have to repair the electronics yourself. If you source a transmitter which SHOULD work with it, but doesn't, you will need expert attention to determine what is wrong - again, this will be hard to find. I assume that you do not know if that receiver works at the moment.... Running vintage radios is rather like running vintage cars. They look great when they are operating properly, but need a lot of work to maintain, and do not perform as well as modern kit. One source of help might be the Single Channel and Vintage RC group here - . They have specialists in old equipment...

Help with vintage rc. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi there fellow boaters, I have just acquired a vintage model fitted with a futaba digimax 4 reciever. What is the chance of it working with any other type of transmitter, or do I need to buy a vintage digimax 4 transmitter. Does it have interchangeable crystals. I could change all the electrics but would prefer to keep it original. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Colin.

Cabin roof hatches by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Boatshed, I have used cascamite on some of the older boat restorations, but they are mainly for display boats, but it's rather expensive for most modelling jobs, so now tend to stick to using epoxy and the best one in my humble opinion is from the poundland shop, it dries quite quickly and crystal clear, I've even replaced port holes glazing with it. (it features Tommy Walsh on the package.) Comes in a syringe, so really easy to use. Cheers Colin.

34" RAF Crash Tender Windows by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Absolutely Martin, 👍 As I did with my Sea Scout above, with 3mm tinted perspex. There are such wonderful crystal clear acrylate plastics available these days in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up, and scratch resistant, it's dead easy to make super windows. Takes a bit more time and effort that's all. Just use the frame 'oles as a template to mark up the window 'glass'. If 'time is of the essence' (as the lawyers say) then just buy an ARTR or RTR in the first place. Cheers, Doug 😎

Hobby King receiver clones by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Mornin' John, I've used 'Generic' crystals with my ancient Sanwa 35 Meg set with no problems. I do find tho that the 'FM' crystals seem to give better range than the 'AM' crystals. Check the specs of your TX whether it is AM or FM. Cheers; Doug 😎 DEACS!? My God, when did I last hear of them let alone see one😲 We used to use them in professional personal VHF/UHF radios (Police and the like) some 45 years ago. 400mAh was good stuff in those days! Threw my last examples out about 10 years ago, they had some interesting and quite artistic crystal growths though😉 Was just a brand name for NiCads.

Hobby King receiver clones by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched crystals, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms, futaba, Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair crystals. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.

Hobby King receiver clones by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Colin I operate all the frequency ranges you mention. In the old 27 Mhz any 27Mhz crystal set work providing the receiver is on the same frequency. The same is true for 40 Mhz each channel will transmit to any receiver within range but you can't put a 27 into a 40 or visa versa. I tend to use half channels as these days I am unlikely to meet anyone using them. Ebay is a very good source of crystals. The 2.4 gig system work by binding with a receiver and will only obey a signal sent for it. Just like the old game Simon says if that transmitter hasn't given the command the receiver will not obey. I hope that helps Bryan

Hobby King receiver clones by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks Martin, I understand about binding 2.4ghz but what really is my problem is the Compatibility of older 27mhz and 40mhz setups, also which crystals will work in which setups. This is where the compatibility chart will help. Cheers Colin.

Mahogany in Scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Neither can I Martin! "The transmitter used two vacuum tubes wired as a multi-vibrator with a tank circuit to constrain emissions to somewhere near the 27 M/cs band (same as MHz, but that name came later). With not a crystal in sight, transmitter frequency drift and battery voltage drain was a problem, so careful tuning just prior to short flights was the order of the day." Cheers, Doug 😎

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Thanks for Doug -I think! I've read it twice and things are becoming clearer, a third and forth time may bring crystal clarity I hope. All in all a very cleaver solution to a problem that I think many others would benefit from, well done Doug and thanks for the interpretation.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

Intermittent radio problems by robhenry Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 months ago
I have a real mystery problem ! Occasionally, one of my crash tender models loses control for no apparent reason. It is running on 40mHz Futaba system. This has been used for a number of years without any probs until recently. I have managed to reproduce the problem in the workshop just once. Effect is that using rudder channel, interferes with throttle channel such that when rudder servo operated the throttle goes completely haywire ! At the lake I have checked to make sure that no one else is on same freq. Most people run 2,4mHz anyway. When simulated in the workshop I have changed receivers transmitters and crystals and still had the problem. The next day problem had disappeared ! The other kit used in the boat are a Futaba rudder servo and two 30amp Electronise esc's running in parallel. Have checked receiver voltage under load--- no problem with this either. Has anyone got any ideas ? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Rob

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Pete piping in here. No, the bulb in my tug is crystal clear overall. Plus, it lights up when a button on the transmitter is pressed. Would a “fuse” do that? I wonder if it’s a carryover from an older pre-LED design or possibly something to do with acting as a resistor for the various LEDs on the pilot house? But that’s strictly a guess on my part. My experience with & understanding of LEDs & how they’re used properly is very, very limited. Pete

Which Paint? by andyhynes Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.

rising damp by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Airing cupboard is best or if you have a cat use the cat litter. But the other problem you will have is the crystals left on the circuit board from the water will need to be cleaned of the circuit boards in the servos etc. Before you use them again or they will keep shorting out.