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>> Home > Tags > deck

deck
deck
Electronics Down Below (5) by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Superb job, just remember the clearance under the rear deck hatch, the lock stick's down a way, also make a small bulkhead just behind the gearbox, so the battery does not rub on the battery base, it does move slightly and can touch the motor spindles. Mark

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Palaform Griffon 600 - Police by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
I have just bought the Palaform Griffon 600 which arrived last week. I am considering 2 things: 1. Either copy all the depron parts onto 2mm light/medium balsa adding lightning holes to reduce the extra weight. This would make a far stronger model for not too much added weight. The instructions call for adding extra batteries to increase weight if using outdoors anyway. 2. second option would be to replace some parts with balsa, then glass cloth top deck depron, bottom of hull depron and either replace cabin sides/roof with a sandwich of 1mm balsa/1mm ply or glass cloth depron. In both options, the prop tunnel will be built as per kit. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Remaining formers and chine formers by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Have now fitted the remaining outside hull formers and the top deck chine formers. Last job was to place electrics in hull to get an idea of layout, plenty of room to move things around for balance, ballast and CofG. This is going to be a quick and very easy build up to the point of adding scratch built detail and painting which takes time. Tomorrow remaining chine formers and start hull sheeting.

Totnes Castle 1894 by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.

Richards 48" Swordsman by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Richard its in the thread titled motor problem, its not a big feature, but I think you are going to be tail heavy. The misconception is, sometimes people say, oh its planning, so must be fast, but in actual fact its not going fast at all, its actually the balancer, or more importantly the centre of gravity being off, making the bow rise. A good starting point will be with all deck clutter etc, and all fittings etc how does it sit in the water👍

Tsekoa 2 by deepdiver Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi One and All Just a quick note, Brightwork has sent me some photo's of the Tsekoa, and they have answered some of the questions that I have had with regards to the wheelhouse and the deck fittings. THANK you Brightwork. All the best Fred

USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/4600g USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (7 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (7 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A (20Amps) ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: 1:48 COAST GUARD MODELS (CHICAGOLAND) 52" F/G HULL. SCALE REPLICA OF USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627), ONE OF THREE CUTTERS I SAILED ABOARD WHILE PROUDLY SERVING IN THE GLORIOUS 1980'S. THE BUILDER OF THESE HULLS DOES JUST ABOUT EVERY USCG CRAFT, WWII TO PRESENT. UNFORTUNATELY, DUE TO HEALTH REASONS, HE IS ABOUT TO RETIRE AND RELINQUISH THE FORMS. HIS WEBSITE IS COASTGUARD MODELS.COM IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED. I PLAN TO ORDER A USCG BAY CLASS ICEBREAKING TUG THIS WEEK, BEFORE IT'S OBSOLETE. THAT WOULD ALSO COMPLETE MY USCG FLEET THAT IS RELATIVE TO MY SERVICE. THERE ARE NO SUPERSTRUCTURE ASSEMBIES AVAILABLE FOR THE WMEC, HENCE A SCRATCH BUILD FROM THE MAIN DECK IS IN MY NAUTICAL FUTURE. LUCKILY, GEORGE BIEDA @ WINDJAMMERARTS.COM PUT TOGETHER A LARGE SHEET OF 1:48 DRAWINGS FOR THE CONSTRUCTION. MY PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORY IS PRETTY GOOD, BUT EVERY LIL BIT HELPS, I RECKON. THERE IS, HOWEVER A S/S & CABIN ASSLY FOR THE BAY CLASS, AT A COST, OF COURSE. PARATUS GERERE!

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
I have a supply of sheet lead that I cut and use. Would look the same as the lead shot in your pic but you won't need much. I ballasted mine with all the gear in the hull before the deck was added, got it all working then fitted the deck etc. I left it slightly high on the waterline to allow for the top bits. Modern rc gear is now easily available in small form and even the batteries can be sourced in small sizes. I used AA pencells in the model and it sailed for well over an hour, The ESC had a BEC, my own design so shrink wrapped to keep the weight down.

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD!

USCG CG-44345 by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1400g USCG CG-44345 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a MAB 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (10Amps) ESC - Comments: VINTAGE BILLING BOATS (MY FIRST RC ENDEAVOR 1989) 1:20 US COAST GUARD 44' MOTOR LIFEBOAT. ABS HULL & DECK WITH PLYWOOD CABINS. ALL STOCK RUNNING HARDWARE AND FITTINGS. I'M CURRENTLY OVERHAULING HER, HULL IS DECORATED AND MARKED WITH NEW DECALS. THE ORIG KIT WAS CG-44329, WHICH SAILED OUT OF US COAST GUARD LIFEBOAT STATION MANASQUAN INLET, NJ. I CHANGED THE HULL NUMBER AND RELOCATED HER TO USCG LIFEBOAT STATION LUDINGTON, MI., WHICH WAS MY DREAM STATION WHEN I WAS A PROUD US COAST GUARDSMAN, '80-86. THERE WERE 110 OF THESE MLB'S BUILT BY THE COAST GUARD YARD IN CURTIS BAY, MD, AND THE DESIGN WAS SO SUCCESSFUL, IT WAS DUPLICATED BY THE RNLI AND STILL IN SERVICE TODAY. THERE ARE EVEN A COUPLE FOR SALE THE LAST TIME I CHECKED. OTHER THAN THE 40' UTB, THE 44 IS MY FAVORITE COASTAL RESCUE CRAFT.

WHITE CLOVER by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3000g WHITE CLOVER Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:72 TUNA CLIPPER KIT; REDESIGNED & REFITTED TO A RESEARCH VESSEL. BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY PLANK-ON (DOUBLE-PLANKED ABOVE PLIMSOL LINE & PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE COATS OF MINWAX POLYURETHANE), WITH 3/16" SCRIBED DECK SHEATHING (DECK CAN ACCOMMODATE A SMALL RC HELO, GOOD LUCK WITH THE LANDING) FEATURES RIVABO 5-BLADE WHEEL, HAND MADE RUDDER, BULBOUS BOW & TRAWLING GALLOWS.ONE 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAY, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS & AMBER DECK LIGHTS AND WORKING BRASS STOCKLESS ANCHOR.

ILLINI SPIRIT by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 46"/4400g ILLINI SPIRIT Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:96 GREAT LAKES FREIGHTER KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME. MY THIRD BOAT TO JOIN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET. DECKED WITH 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING, BOTTOM REINFORCED WITH A 3/8" LAM SPRUCE BOARD (ALSO PROTECTS THE PVC BOTTOM FROM ROCKS & ADDS BUOYANCY). FEATURES A RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL AND A RABOESCH 22MM 7.2V BOW THRUSTER FOR DOCKING/MANEUVERING. LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND STATIC BRASS RADAR ARRAYS. NICE PVC SHEETING ON WOOD FRAME KIT, THE ONLY REAL CHALLENGE WAS THE STERN SECTION SHEER CONSTRUCTION, BUT THAT'S WHAT PUTTY'S FOR, RIGHT?