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Model Boats Website Team
February 2017: 6 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people July 2016: 4 people June 2016: 1 person May 2016: 1 person April 2016: 9 people March 2016: 5 people February 2016: 5 people
[Score: 8/10] 39" Edward . M. Cotter Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 70mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 4Amp/h Batteries - Comments: The real fire boat is stationed in Buffalo New York . This fire boat visits Port Colborne on Lake Erie every year for Canal Days & because the model boat club I'm in sets up a display at the museum in town I decided to build a scratch build of this boat I used the prints of the Sequin Midwest tug for the hull & Internet photos for details. I used the tops of Lepages glue bottle to simulate the Monitor on the decks I'm real proud of them.
The white metal life rings supplied in the fittings kit not only look flat and uninteresting but more than that they weigh in at 57 grams individually and along with the rest of the metal fittings above deck will raise the centre of gravity quite a lot and may affect the roll of the hull on turns. Well that’s my theory anyway and I’m using it to justify replacing them with something lighter and more pleasing to the eye. I found some plastic ones on eBay that were roughly the same diameter for a couple of pounds each that looked ideal. The rope detail needed to be added to them to replicate the originals and this was done with some nylon cord that I superglued into slots filed into the circumference. I then wound seven turns to form the quadrants, securing each turn with a spot of glue and ensuring that the ends all arrived on what will be the underside of the rings. They were then sprayed with a couple of coats of white acrylic and the red bands brush painted. The weight of the new life ring is 19 grams, exactly one third of the metal one and it looks, to my eye, a million times better 😁 To locate them on the engine room roof I cut some 3mm plasticard wedges and superglued them in place, the actual fixing will be two small screws from the underside of the roof. The white metal ones will make ideal ballast weights if I need to make any adjustments 😉
This is a scratch built 1828 paddle steamer. A steam assisted schooner rig paddler. Pioneer of ocean steam Scale 1:60 Actual size of deck, 165 feet. The crest on the side represents the following. Martello Tower - Bexhill-on-sea Seahorses - Eastbourne Saxon Crown - East-Sussex. Ships of the same class 1821 James Watt 1825 Calpe 1832 Rhadamanthurs 1836 Unicorn 1837 Sirius The boat was built by Peter Allday some 20-plus years ago
Please has any one built a type Vll 1/32 with a snorkel or has done so in the past . Do you have the dimensions for the well on the decking i.e. Depth and any other ideas for parts for pop and bottom of snorkel. Thanks 😊
Hello : I am looking for a place to obtain plastic boat hulls . They do not have to be scale or of a specific boat . I am looking for some that are in the basic shape of a Damen research vessel ,or other type with a high bow line and then dropping to a flatter deck. About 24" long and 8"+ wide . Detail is not real important . I wish I could be more precise but as its for a test project ....sssssssh black OPPs / Skunk Works . Sorry for my odd post but as I'm going to use this for non rc project I'm not well versed in it . thanks !
Hello all, I've been busy with the Bridge build, this has proved a little tricky as the forward structure is at a slight angle when not on the ship. I've used a combination of 1/8 ply and 0.75mm plastic sheet. I needed the ply in this section as this will be where I will have hull access for batteries and needed the strength. The walls of the upper structure are plastic sheet which I think have come out well. There is still more to add (look out wings at the rear of the bridge need walls etc) I can the start to connect this to the decking before adding finer details. Coming on slowly is the hull, I will spend a bit more time here over the coming weeks to get it ready for sanding and then fibreglass coating. Good luck with your builds. Dave
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave
ATENTION. ATENTION...... All hands on deck.... all ranks including officers.... Now hear this, January web site funding met and slightly exceeded target.. not time to be complacent though, lets see if we can meet a target of 28 donations for Feb. Note membership rising fast nearly 30 new members joined in January, please support the site by donating, I appreciate not everyone has available funds but "those who can should" Thanks shipmates.... At ease Allen R
I have some Humbrol 'flesh' enamel paint but it is baby pink rather than the ruffy tuffy tug boat deck hand that I want. Any suggestions as to what colour(s) I need to add to theHumbrol paint to get the colour I am looking for? Chris
Hi Mate, in small spaces, i have used gel type cyno, a small blob to secure the LED and using the LED lens/body as the "glass" works well, you have to look close to see the difference. Using a varnish is ok but it does tend to go yellowish over time Mark
Hi all ! Thing are moving slowly at the detailing stage. I wonder if anyone would be kind enough to tell me the best way to secure the LED bulbs for my Navigation Lights etc. There isn't much room for fittings and I have seen lights secured and sealed with a clear gel that goes off hard. Can someone tell me what this is called and where I can get some of same please, it looks like clear sealant but is much harder when cured.
In between coats of black paint there’s time to prepare more of the white metal deck fittings. They all require a bit of a clean up to remove casting lines and flash, and this is easy to do with an assortment of small files, blades and a small suede shoe brush with brass wire ‘bristles’. After a quick clean up with panel wipe I fixed them all to a piece of card with small strips of double sided foam tape to stop them getting blown around by the pressure of the spay can and gave them a couple of light coats of etch primer. To assemble the anchor I used some 2mm brass rod with some brass ends made from some larger diameter brass rod, drilled and filed to a pleasing profile, a bit of plasticard was added to neaten the pivot point and the assembly was also given a coat of etch primer. The cooling water outlet tube and flange and the dummy exhaust ports (adapted portholes) were primed also. They’ll get a coat of black gloss before they are fixed to the stern. I’ll tackle the fire monitors next…
CIGARETTE BOAT MODEL 48”x12” This cool model was built by S.H.Grainger & Co., Marine Models Division, Walsall, England. Originally designed as a display model of the famous Cigarette racing boat, this would make a great conversion project to either gas or electric. The hull and top deck are in good shape (a few mounting holes but no cracks) Many of the decorative parts in a bag. This will certainly take some TLC, but the basic structure is of laminated fiberglass and well built. Unfortunately I'm in Miami, Florida. Asking $75 plus shipping from USA. Any suggestion on where to post this would be appreciated.