Ah, old car days, eh? Nothing phased us. Can't touch them now. No idea what it all is under that plastic cover. Spookilly, I've just done a pattern in 1/32nd scale for a Maranello GTO1964. One of my favourite cars messed over by Maranello for Le Mans. Your fish cutter seems to be throwing some problems up, but nuttn' a spot of resin can't fix. I don't buy that propellor blade rumour. We have no decent pics of the thing, but you can clearly enough see there aint no twist in the legs like a prop would have. I've just made mine in brass and simply flattened the tube in the vice to get a similar section and soldered to other tubes. All I have to do is make rings and attach the blocks for the ensign ropes. Also cut and attached the toe strips either side of the decks in Venetian blind slat, some leftovers from decking the Vanity cutter model. Now I need to cut some mahogany and attach to the side of the decks as the rubbing strake. Finaly will be making gutters for the smaller windows (NO frames there) and frames for the wheelhouse windows, then I can paint it. I have decided on white roofs after a peer at the good photos again, where the vents all seem to be white. But non-slip was clearly a pain to clean as the roofs and decks are bloody filthy! Vincent's having a break for a while. Call it my annual leave, which I never normally have. Cheers, Martin
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.
[Score: 9/10] 34"/2500g RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a Bullet 30 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 24v 15A Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Ebay job £50 Old Vintage Aero kit 34in Fire boat needing a lot of attention, with delaminating plywood, old glue, old glow-plug engine mounts with electric conversion, and after removing a metal shield I discover an vintage (1970,s Ripmax Bullet 30 Motor the dogs bollocks of electric racing of its time capable of running 24v at 15A. 300W for a brushed motor. Started by revamp rear pit by lowering servo and rudder and building sub deck, storage lockers, tow hook and ladders. Remount the motor with an aluminium mount with custom screw positions. Block windows with 1mm ply. Foam front half of hull to make unsinkable. Make centre decking area. Repair and build up on cabin roofs and walls to centre deck. Rewire add ESC and servo. Remove broken and unusable fittings such as large vents, some missing unable to match again. Problems with old gloss paint crazing the modern spay paints. Build some fittings eg Water cannons, life belts, Build new battery trays, Painting the boat now in progress as of 20/04/2018 Boat has be roughly painted but is not finished, as fittings are now required, added a RC system an gave it a test run. the performance was adequate on 14.4v and great on 17.2v see latter pictures on the pond. the motor did get hot after about half hour of use. the motor is rated at 24v but I think a smaller prop will be required for that voltage. Excellent performance from a brushed motor. Added some stickers and I have now added a 12v fan and ventilation between cabins as the motor required some cooling and was in a sealed compartment.
The deck has been fitted today after dry test fit before glueing. The timber framing and underside of the ply decking was coated in a water based varnish before applying the titebond 2 wood glue. Used a number of clamps and bungee cords to hold the deck down.
Al I have done today because of the weather is to make the card template for the ply decking and then transferred it to the ply sheet ready for cutting out and glueing in place You can just about make out the pencil outline on the sheet ply
I originally built this about 6 years ago when I was still a novice builder and some mistakes were made and it ended up partially sinking , it was left in the workshop for about a year before I decided to refit it out. The deck just lifted of the framing without any problems because it was rotten as well as some of the framing , the motors and prop shafts had seized and most of the electrics and the battery had shorterd and corroded due to the sinking. I had been doing the odd bits of the refit over the past couple of years not really in any rush to complete it. After replacing the rotten framing I started to replace the electrics with all new gear Battery 12v 7mah Motors Mtronic 560 Working crane using 3 mini motors with Mr RC world micro speed controllers Working anchor winch (krick I think) Full lighting kit and working radar Main speed controllers electronize The pictures shows as it is now ready for the new decking to be fitted
Hi all just after a bit of information. I use to buy sand sealer from the local model shop but there no longer there so not able to get hold of any. What are people using? It’s not for the hull it for the decking and wheel house. Thanks
Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached. The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures. I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do. If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful. I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁 I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😡 I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below. One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long. Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.🤔
Nothing much was done for a while after this stage due to my health halting the build for about 6 months. But I have started the build again and decided to post it on here for you all. The next stage was planking the decking and in whales , the deck is planned in walnut and beech which was glued and pinned to the sub deck using titebond 2 .the in whales were lined with mahogany on the inside and walnut on the outside topped with a walnut top rail made using 5mm square section bent and glued together again with titebond 2.
The blue you have used on her really looks great and the white upper sets it off. Love the decking as well. Are you going to put any pin striping down her sides. Look forward to seeing her finished and on the water. Will you be posting video of her running.
Interesting article in Model Boats web site which mentions joggling, however I'm still none the wiser. http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=119534 and in addition an interesting article on decking in the Titanic Research and Modeling Association web site. http://titanic-model.com/db/db-02/bruce-1-db-02.html after some more research I found this comment by Ian Gardner "I find, when joggling planks into the waterway or king plank, it is useful, if you have the facilities, to grind a chisel the width of the joggling to chop out the recess in the waterway. This is usually one third the width of the plank being used if memory serves. The chisel can be made from a an old needle file and hardened after grinding." and pictures of joggled joints It appears its cutting into the waterway or king plank. In a way you can see the reason its called joggling as it gives the same profile as in metal joggling eg "Z"
As to where you could get it from. Cornwall model boats sell a good selection of wood for building or decking. Including a lot of nice exotic timbers which will give lovely decking patterns. As to what. I would use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch square for the stringers in spruce. Hope that helps. Kindest wishes, Dave W 😊
First piece of decking added at the bow. I’ve used a lamination of 1.5mm mahogany and 1.5mm obechi, this will be stained and varnished at the end. I’ve also added the mid chine rubbing strake from 1/32 x 2/16 ply, blended, filled and primed and sanded with sanding sealer. Hull exterior finished apart from 2 thin coats of resin. Next job is the fit remaining deck pieces which are currently glued and laminating under some heavy books!
Hot off the laser the sheets for the decking ,have used strips (coffee stirrers )for decking previously but thought if I can access the technology why not use it.decking is 1.5mm thick oak faced ply sheet 1m x500 lasered every 5mm then cut to the desired sizes