Hot off the laser the sheets for the decking ,have used strips (coffee stirrers )for decking previously but thought if I can access the technology why not use it.decking is 1.5mm thick oak faced ply sheet 1m x500 lasered every 5mm then cut to the desired sizes
Cheers for that Doug ,going to attempt laser printing a sheet of decking on 1mm oak ply this afternoon if the drawing works out , rather than use the old trusted coffee stirrers. embracing the technology "Faint heart etc. etc." Marky
Whilst things are sticking and drying ,I noticed in the book it mentions "at bow and stern were short "turtle deck" covers ,the drawings not very clear and looking on internet got lots of info about garden decking. So question is,is it a curved cover as seen on the bows of trawlers? or am I barking up the wrong tree. Any help appreciated book also says these were removed later on in her career so I can omit them if need be. Cheers Marky
That's what I use for decking as well👍 ,don't drink enough coffee or make enough money to justify going into Costa every day so asked the kind lady at the works canteen for a few and was kindly given a few ,I asked her to order me some the next time she got them in , a box of 1000 for less than £2 a bargain and there were over 1500 in the box . Cheers Marky
Having to clear up before going away for a while. Table top to clear and case to pack. I have tried to load a small video, my first one, but this is my fourth try at uploading. I would show that, thanks to the help of so many of you, I have made a trial setup of the sound unit in the Hull using the exciters. Had to have a go before I left (spoilt Brat). It works! Happy with volume, even with decking off but volume control only half advanced and can function horn separate to engine sounds. Dave M and Doug to name a couple have really helped me through to this point. When I return, I will install properly and take images as this video does not seem to want to play with me. Next challenge...the Esc/Mixer Cheers to all. NPJ
No not yet thought it through Doug. Huge speaker with the unit... and weighty. Glad about the transponders! I imaging they should be in the hull/decking and above the waterline? Trying to read about about boat balance and how they sit in the water. Assuming keeping battery as low as possible is best. Will have to be fore and aft if it is to be removed through the rear hatch. Have not broken into the Bridge/wheelhouse yet to see whats there................. Is once a week OK for the build blog? All the best. NPJ
Wayne , Just noticed in RS components that they do a 1.75 mm tropical wood 3D printing filament ,wooden decking ? or a nice little cabin the world could be your oyster ,couldn't get the link on the last post to work but they are printing a house somewhere in Scandinavia ,Norway I think
I picked up a 46" Huntsman yesterday, so i have the same sort of restoration as you have, but bigger 😕 First thing to sort is the "started" planning on the decking. There must be somewhere I can buy strips of timber to plank with to save making my own. And what does one use to represent the black interplank waterproofing ? Otherwise I have to take off the bits already glued on. Cheers guys, Dave W 😊
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.
here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the decking is to be finished.. once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.