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Model Boats Website Team
February 2019: 8 people January 2019: 16 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 9 people
Hi, Have added two brushless motors prop shafts etc, twin rudders as per original boat and also a cabin roof. Did a test run (sorry no pics) but she was great, predictable and stable in rough conditions. I have started on the inner decking, this plugs in the hull, still a lot to do.
Hi I use popular ply for construction and decking it is much lighter than birch but is much stronger than light ply . The decking is a light straw colour and of very close uniform grain one coat of danish oil 'can be applied with a soft brush if you are worried about rags washed out with turps use dividers to measure plank widths use biro for curved planks use a wheeled block device as per the yacht books to follow deck edge apply several coats of oil burnish with fine Scotchbrite Cheers Ian
Hi All Installed the deck and filled around the edges. Gave the hull a quick run and it handle very well. Good turning circle and at 50% throttle still over scale speed. 3/4 throttle looks about right. About to start planking. Canabus
Edward, Yes - thinking out problems is half the fun😊 My first build was a Vic Smeed Starlet - just completed. Pretty straight forward but I over engineered it to try out some ideas - thinking the ideas through was great fun. So although I will not start the Cariad until January I'm trying to explore problems now. The angle of the rudder shaft is one that I think I have a solution to. Take it right through the deck then put a handle onto it, hinged at the shaft so that it does not rise and fall as it is turned. Then a Bowden cable from each side of the cockpit to power the steering. I will enjoy building a mock up and trying it out! As to the rudder, I am thinking of a detachable extension - downwards. I'm also thinking about placing the prop to one side - perhaps more authentic but also well clear of the rudder. One thing that I'm still thinking through is the access hatch. I see some builders move the dingy to the centre and create a hatch here but I like the clean decking on the original, with the dingy to the side. A hatch to the side would work for everything but the top screw for the detachable keel. Some more time dreaming up a solution. Thanks Sam
Hi All Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees. When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades. Like I say not enough clamps Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.
I am presently very slowly building the Deans City of Ely which is very similar to the Robert E Perry. I have got the motor and the prop installed and I have cut the decking and picked up some good points from your pictures, ( i hope you don't mind😡), I particularly like the plywood under deck and noted that you built up the stern where the rudder post is fitted. I think I shall follow your lead there.👍
Hello everyone, it’s been a while since l made a post about my ongoing model St Canute, mainly due to the heatwave we’ve just been through, however l have just completed laying the decking strips, which l have to admit was going well until the last few strips to the edge, boy oh boy did l struggle. I jumped the instructions as they do say to plank the hull first. At times l just sat there looking at the decking trying to get a reasonable edge and curve. I have attached some photos which some of you professional model makers will spot the errors, but it’s the best l can do so long am pretty pleased with the outcome. I have a question, should l now apply some sanding sealer to the deck strips? l am just a bit worried not to sand the deck strips too much. Any advice would be very much appreciated. I guess now l must start with the hull planking which l am apprehensive about, but hey ho it has to been done. Thanks everyone l will keep you updated from time to time, if anyone out there is also building this Billing Boat st Canute l would love to hear from you. Cheers everyone, Richard.
Strange that you should mention the Movie/book 'The Cruel Sea', have just bought the DVD from Ebay, looking forward to watching it once again. I have an old Revell corvette kit, and last month bought the NEW corvette kit from Revell which has most of the lighting in kit form, plus revolving radar, but very annoyed 😆to find out that there is no p/e parts or wooden decking as in the platinum edition, but it only cost me £100 + vat trade deal, sssh🤐 Cheers Peter😊
Deck From the construction hand book:- Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material. Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks. Planking 62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used. stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately. Prop shafts of real boat. All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat. propshaft angles are around 10 degrees. The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones. The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees. Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection. The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.
Ah, old car days, eh? Nothing phased us. Can't touch them now. No idea what it all is under that plastic cover. Spookilly, I've just done a pattern in 1/32nd scale for a Maranello GTO1964. One of my favourite cars messed over by Maranello for Le Mans. Your fish cutter seems to be throwing some problems up, but nuttn' a spot of resin can't fix. I don't buy that propellor blade rumour. We have no decent pics of the thing, but you can clearly enough see there aint no twist in the legs like a prop would have. I've just made mine in brass and simply flattened the tube in the vice to get a similar section and soldered to other tubes. All I have to do is make rings and attach the blocks for the ensign ropes. Also cut and attached the toe strips either side of the decks in Venetian blind slat, some leftovers from decking the Vanity cutter model. Now I need to cut some mahogany and attach to the side of the decks as the rubbing strake. Finaly will be making gutters for the smaller windows (NO frames there) and frames for the wheelhouse windows, then I can paint it. I have decided on white roofs after a peer at the good photos again, where the vents all seem to be white. But non-slip was clearly a pain to clean as the roofs and decks are bloody filthy! Vincent's having a break for a while. Call it my annual leave, which I never normally have. Cheers, Martin
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.