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>> Home > Tags > delamination

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Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Neville, thanks for the endorsement👍 Just case of 'bin there - dun that - didn't work' Fixing a leak from the inside can never work properly. The water will continue to creep into the wood of the hull causing delamination of ply or simply rotting 🤔 Sealing the inside is intended to prevent any water entering through shaft tubes, rudder stocks or deck hatches etc from soaking into the wood. Re your liquid hardener- Instructions on my can of polyester resin state- 2 to 4% by volume hardener -> 10 minutes working time, 40 minutes to harden @ 15 to 20°C. I.e. for 100ml resin 2 to 4ml hardener. Overdo it and it'll set in a few minutes and get damned hot in the process!😲 Has been know to cause fires or finger burns 😡 Cheers, Doug 😎

Leaking Boat! by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Looks like delamination, if water is getting in between the ply layers it will follow any gaps and porosity and could come out anywhere. I've had similar problems on my vintage restorations. The only thing to do is clean and repair any external damage then I would cover ultra fine glass cloth and Eze-Kote with at least 3 coats and rubbed down between coats. This should cure your problem and also strengthen the Hull.

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 Internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! If the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. If it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Neville, that far forward I would definitely look for some hull damage forward; crack in a seam or delamination? When you find it clean off all the paint around it, seal it with EzeKote and repaint. Inside fill either side of the keel in that bay with resin. Check also the skin joints around the chine. Re motors; I don't see any suppression capacitors 😲 and the motors (or the one I can see) are mounted very high giving a very steep shaft angle! Will tend to push the bow down at speed instead of planing🤔 Ciao, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Evenin' Neville, Re Leak- Where did the water collect? Anywhere near the end of the prop-shafts? Whatever; as soon as it's dried out give it a good internal coating of EzeKote from Deluxe Materials, no pong and no hardener resin. Brush it on generously and leave to dry/harden overnight. Put PLENTY down in the bilges around the keel boards. Brushes you can simply wash out in warm water. Very 'People friendly'👍 After that carefully inspect the outside of the hull for flaked paint, cracks and delamination of the skin or keel wood. Re scale for fittings- "Some of the 1/16th look better than the 1/12th and 1/24 is in with a change for some bits!" Don't quite get the last bit! Whatever 😉 The original was LoA 43' = 516". So your model with 44" is without doubt as near as dammit 1/12. (1 to 11.727😁) Owt else for the fittings would look a bit 'Gulliver's Travels' 😲 Re Build Blogs; the most comprehensive one I've seen here on Fireboats is Robbob's outstanding build and incredibly detailed and informative blog 👍👍👍 Can't wait to see what electrics you've ordered, another big white delivery van full of surprises?😁 Bon chance mom ami, Cheers, Doug 😎

Sea Commander restoration tips by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 year ago
Dave I won't take any photos yet as it's literally just the hull. You may remeber last year you provide loads of help on my plywood delamination issue and the build blog is still there which shows me reducing her to nothing and making new superstructure side from scratch. The rest of her is in boxes 😂😂😂😂

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 year ago
Thanks for everything tonight learning more each time I'm on here and at the moment its keeping me out of trouble😁😁😁 Paul - I was looking through my bits of paperwork today and found a letter from Peter when I joined this site 6 years ago - yes that's how I've been going on this project. The letter was to do with the actual fireboat and what colour grey was used so at one point I was quite far on. Then it all went wrong with delamination of the plywood and major misalignment issues. Peter was a great a guy and really helpful

Using old motors by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Doug, that looks lovely. I can't guarantee the performance would be anything but sedate with the Target, but that kind of boat in the real world would rarely be seen exceeding about 10 knots if that. It's essentially a river boat. I would be inclined to keep with the scheme it has as it's nicely period with the off white. Maybe line the deck with a Rotring a la period too and veneer the coach house sides. I certainly wouldn't strip it as there'll be joints and filler and boring old plywood underneath. No, paint is the Aerokits look for sure Delamination needs only epoxy, either the repair and build stuff or the liquid a la West, SP, etc.. slide a knife in the delamination and convince some epoxy in, then lightly clamp it twixt layers of greaseproof paper (when the GF's out) or plastic bag or similar. I use Plastikard, but I was given a box of lasered off cuts by Ivan at the Vintage Boat Company. He's now sold out to SLEC who are even nearer where I live! Anyway I have plasticard in three thicknesses to waste. If you stroke the surface with a scriber, it will make a weird hollow noise if delaminated. If it is, make a cut, persuade the edges up and insinuate some epoxy into the crack you've made. Ain't nuttn. you can't repair. You should have seen the window frames in my house when I sold it. A festival of epoxy, firewood and P38 car filler. Surveyor passed it with barely a look. Reallygood paint saved the day. Stupid waster! 400 quid Mr. Client, chching! As for the extra gizmos, I'd ditch them to save weight and complexity. You might find a 3 blade prop works better, but I'm no expert there. Finally instead of "this belongs to", I'd simply name her Jessica, in a nice script. I hope that helps. Cheers, Martin

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.

Richards 48" Swordsman by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave

Deck skins by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Rob, coming along real nice 👍 You might not want to do this, but a little tip I was given, stand it on its nose and pour some resin into the bow, particularly at deck, it just firm everything up, and provides a good strong seal against those "too fast into the bank" moments The original aerokits versions suffered from delamination as in picture one above, which rotted the top deck. I have seen quite a few do this over time, the resin trick seems to stop it, just a thought"! Paul

Free Fire boats by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Two 3ft fire boats from the 1960s, these are free, not to be put on ebay but to be finished and used. Boat 2 (photo) has never been finished, just needs the side decks putting on and a bit of attention to the aft cabin. Prop shaft/prop (4ba I would guess) and rudder are fitted. Boat 1 (photo) looks as though it might have been used but has been completely stripped of paint ready for repainting, this boat needs a bit more work, but it is quite do able. This boat also has prop shaft and rudder. Both hulls are sound with no delamination of the ply on hulls or superstructure, a good winter project. Why arent I doing them? I have already built one, (build on this site somewhere) More photos if required. Before anyone asks, I am not prepared to box them up and post them, but if you are going to the Lake District you can pick them up as I am in south Cumbria Alan

Sea Commander by laurence1 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 years ago
Thanks Alan, I did wonder wether or not to smack it out with a hammer. I've also got delamination of the ply on the port side of the main cabin above the window, going to try and glue it back together as wouldn't want to try and replace the hole side! Or should I replace it??

Aero kits sea commander by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
Lovely original Aerokits Sea Commander, and in good condition externally. You appear to be quite a seasoned modeller judging by the background to the pics so should have few problems in restoration. I restored a Sea Queen and the build is pretty similar to the Sea Commander so you will be familiar with the internals. Many early specimens were used with IC engines and the resultant fuel spillages in the hull can result in some delamination of the ply skins. It will take some time to remove all the stains and damaged bits but time spent now will save you much grief later. If an IC has been used the prop shaft, case and bearings are likely to be well worn and will benefit from replacement. If you have access to a lathe you can replace the bearings yourself if the shaft is not twisted. Check the hull for any soft spots and remove and replace any damaged ply. Also check the glue joints, preferably having first removed all the old paint down to the original skins. I covered my hull in fibreglass cloth on the outside and then used body filler to produce a smooth hull for final paint. Takes time but looks good and is waterproof. You can keep adding pics to the upload file box and when finished click the Submit button at the bottom of your post. Some pics of my Sea Queen for your info Good restoring Dave