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>> Home > Tags > display

display
display
Mersey ferry Wallasey/Marlowe by onetenor Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
There used to be a display of ferries models in the booking / entrance hall of old Mersey ferries . They were all in glass cases round the walls.I don't know where they are now but could help if you can find them .Try the Maritime museum.👍

Firing Battleship at Wings & Wheels (UltraHD/4K) by liamduck Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
I have been to the park this year and the model display is still taking place and is well supported too.😎

Model Boat Convention - Haydock Park by thepirate Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
I also will be attending at our club display , we will be by the up stairs café come and say hello. The Pirate.

Hartlepool by marky Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
didnt see a stuffed monkey on display but there is a nice bronze statue of a chimpanzee at the marina the chimp is holding a money box and all monies collected go to a local hospice ,nice story about the french spy and the locals are really proud of it ,either the monkey was very tall or the French were small in days gone bye

battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Roy A NiMh battery when fully charged is 1.4v dropping to 1.2v under load. I use similar batteries for our display boats and they give about 6.8 volts when fully charged. I am assuming your charger is indicating the 1200mAh capacity? I suggest you connect the battery to a meter and place a heavy 1 to 2 amp load on the battery and see what the voltage drops to. If it's less than 6v very quickly I would suspect one of the cells has failed. Usually caused by over discharging the pack and one cell becomes damaged by being reversed charged. If this is a recent purchase I would contact the supplier and ask for help as cells can fail sometimes. If this is not the case then it is possible to split the pack and check each battery whilst under the load. The faulty one's will have a low voltage. Any less than 1v need replacing as they won't ever take or give the full capacity. I have used pins with the meter to check the cells before splitting the pack but it's difficult. I solder a new battery of the same capacity in place and heatshrink the pack. I would check the battery with the replacement cell before sealing as the other cells may be damaged. I am assuming you are using a NiMh charger set to the correct charge current? AA cells are not as resilient as their larger cousins and do not take well to fast charging with loss of capacity being one of the symptoms. Hope this helps and you can get a replacement or repair your packs. Dave

Hartlepool by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Did they have a hanged (French spy) monkey on display by any chance? Cheers Wayne

Hartlepool by marky Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Just back from the romantic weekend and as a little surprise my wife took me to the National museum of the Royal Navy Hartlepool if your ever in the area go along what a brilliant day out plenty to see and do and the Hartlepool museum has some lovely model ships on display ,photos to follow, of the museum not of the romantic weekend

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Boatshed, the Queen was treated with TRICLOROETHANE. Sorry can't divulge where but it was done in a laboratory by a guy who owed me a massive favour from when I was working. Even I don't know exactly how its done but sure worked. Wish I could get all my old boats done, as you I have many including an original fireboat from 1957. Also a Sea Urchin, and two Swordsman, a large launch from the early 60's Caroline is 56 inches, plus a 46 inch tug, about 8 other boats that need work, not to mention 5 sailing boats. Most of the fleet are used for displays at vintage and steam rally's. My wife and I spend the winters doing restoration work on models that get donated to us. Good night. Colin.

Free plans Inc Tamar lifeboat plans by jtdavid Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
this is one i built from the same plans 👍, some time ago, i have put radio in but never tryed sailing it, just for display only. david

Painting Wood and styrene by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Jerry Todd: Hi Jerry, yes, I have heard a lot of good comments about Rustoleum paints. I work for a Display Company and we have lots of lacquer and automotive paints, and I was thinking to use them, but you guys have the experience and your suggestions will help me decide. Thank you Julian 😎

As of Summer 2017... by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
After the sail, I added some hardware to the spars, namely jackstays. I also ordered some aircraft plywood and used it to make new winch drums. These are sized to my current plan of only bracing the tops'l yards. Hopefully, this is the last set I'll have to make. Seeing into the dark interior of the hull can be a pain, more so the brighter it is outside. Mark got some red LEDs to light up the dash of his old pick-up (ute for my Assie friends) and gave me a left-over section. It requires a 12 volt supply (I'm running 6) and red doesn't really help in daylight, but I like the idea. If I can find a white LED strip that'll run on 6 volts, this will definitely get put in. The stern also had folding bulwarks like the bow, but that wrapped all the way around. On the real ship these were replace with a fixed bulwark except for a couple of panels that allowed access to the stern boat. By the time the ship came to Baltimore in 1955, these too were gone, with all their hardware. Again, I'm not making them functional, and decided to built these on the model rather than as separate pieces like on the bow. The hinges are represented inboard by card stock and brass eyes. The barrel portion of the hinges outboard at the bottom of each panel will be a little section of 1/16" wood dowel. The forward bulwarks were epoxied in place and the support rods were installed all around. The tops are raw because they all get a bright cap rail (varnished natural wood) and I'll put that on when it won't get messed up with paint or glue. A friend sent me a box of stuff, among which was a nive little cat face perfect for my catheads. Only having one, I was going to cast a pair in resin. But I'm out of casting resin and epoxy glue didn't set up in a way I liked, so we'll come back to that. The tops'l yards on the ship are hinged iron bands, line with wood staves. I wanted to replicate that functionality not only because that's what the ship has, but because it would allow me to take them off the mast without unrigging half the ship. I cut some heavy copper I use for everything and bent it into two half circles; soldiered brass tubing to the ends, and sawed out the notches with a jewelers saw. If only it had been that easy. Soldiering here tended to un-soldier there, cold soldier joints wouldn't hold. I gave up in frustration. I changed the gun carriages based on some research I did, but I'll post separate entries dealing with them and the ship's boats. I went looking for information on soldiering little things, and took another whack at the parrels. This time it worked out much better. I reused the copper band and brass tubing for the main and made the fore the same way. I still have to make the mizzen tops'l yard parrel, but my soldiering has gotten much much better. Last May ('17) I took the boat to the Baltimore Port Expo for National Maritime Day again, surrounded by members of our newly formed White Rocks Model Boat Club. I didn't manage to get her controls set-up in time, so she didn't go in the pool, but sat on her cart and looked pretty. I put her courses and trys'ls on her for this. The trys'ls won't be used when she sails, but can be set for static displays. The courses will get used, but I'll be able to buntl them up as shown to reduce sail. Also to reduce sail, the t'gallants and royals will be easily removable, or replaceable, as the case may be, depending on what wind there is. That pretty much brings us up to date as of July 2017. I'll post something about the boats and guns in a bit, as well as any other progress that's made. There's far more detail, images, and notes at my website on this, and the other models I'm working on at: http://todd.mainecav.org/model/ There's a few items I skimmed, or skipped over, like her signal flags, that are covered in detail there; like the day she was almost dismasted by the garage door.

No power by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
PS - But that doesn't mean you have to go for the other extreme - Zig thousand pounds for dozens of computerised functions and knobs, switches and displays all over, not to forget multi-parameter telemetry feedback with 5.8GHz video link to a virtual reality headset (stereo sound of course😉). 'A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step' Safe journey Nick, cheers Doug 😎

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Julian As Doug has already commented this is a very small coreless geared motor that reduces the revs down to slow speeds. They are incredibly small powerful and quiet. I have a stripped down minature servo in my Trent lifeboat which gives the required speed but it is exceptionally noisy, especially when used in a display environment. This motor is the best I have found on the market and is certainly suitable for your purpose. I do hope you manage to find the solution for your radar and that you share how on the forum. Cheers Dave

On Public Display by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
This would be the first time I ever put something on public display. Well, some drawings went up in a high school art show, but this was certainly the first model. The Port Expo had set up a pool on the dock next to the N.S. Savannah. It was windy, with the wind whipping around the ship every which way. The pool wasn't deep enough for the model to sail, so she just sat there tied off to one end, or down in the lee corner. Not a big deal, but I got to talk to a few folks about her, and that was fun. One of the other modelers told me about the model expo at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St Michaels Maryland, in just two weeks! Last time I had been to that museum I went on a 170 foot barkentine, this time the boat would be a little smaller. There was no way I was going to get much work done on the model in the time I had, but there was something I wanted to try out. From the start I had a sail-arm servo set-up to handle the fore-and-aft sails, but I hadn't worked out how it would work. The heads'ls over-lapped and each had two sheets. When the model come-about, the heads'ls needed to be hauled over the stays to the other side. When sailing a real boat, like my 16 footer 'Lydia,' it's the same thing. When you start to come about, you cast-off the jib sheet. As the boat comes across the wind, the jib luffs and comes across mostly on it own. The the new sheet is hauled in and made fast. I wanted to emulate that on the model. My solution was two loose arms with the servo arm between them. The servo pushes one or the other of the loose arms to sheet the heads'ls - but not both. Center the servo and both jib-sheets are slack. It's incredibly simple and works on a single servo. I cobbled the system together in time for St Michaels. We also got one of those pop-up tents, and a folding table. I was taking the Pride of Baltimore model, and the Macedonian hull as well. I was getting into this public display thing. The Model Expo was great. There were a boat-load of modeler's and model there. The pool was much larger, but it was still too shallow, and Stella ran aground after sailing only a few feet. Only Constellation went in the water, but all three models got a lot of attention and I spent a lot of time talking to folks about them. The jib-sheeter worked great, though the servo only had 90° of travel and the Dx6 isn't programmable that way. When I got home, I went right to work on another control mechanism I wanted to try - the sliding-winch.

DJI Phantom 2 v2.2 drone by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2. Anyone fly one of these. Here are the specs of the one I am looking at. But seems due to all the bits it has to carry the total flying time is 16 mins .. Is this long enough for a general flight ? Any here are the specs DJI Phantom 2 v2.0 Fully kitted out with Live video feed to the controller, has the excellent Zenmuse H3-3D stabilised gimbal fitted and has the brilliant Gopro hero 3+ black edition included for excellent results. It has an immersion RC 600mw video transmitter fitted for long range transmission and this is fitted with a Fat shark omni directional higher gain antenna. The controller has a Flysight black pearl monitor fitted with the latest folding sunshade. As it has dual 5.8ghz recievers and 32 channels it has twin antenna mounts on top of monitor and there is a fat shark omni directional antenna to match the one on the video transmitter on the drone and also a 5 turn helical directional antenna for solid video at extended distances. The monitors inbuilt diversity reciever will auto switch between antennas to get the best signal. This comes with all original boxes and 2 sets of propellers one of which have never been out of the box. This drone has the heads up display module already fitted to give you live flight data and heading to find back to home if orientation is lost. As with all Phantoms this drone has auto return to home and land so if connection is lost it will fly back to land at its take off point. This drone includes all chargers etc so is all you need to get flying and capturing great aerial footage in a single kit. I have flown this out to 997m during testing and it is faultless in its reliability. Three flight batteries are included to keep you flying longer. This is a very capable machine that has done some epic flights. I am happy to demonstrate it flying etc as it has never been crashed or abused. So what would you think was a fair price to pay for this drone ????