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>> Home > Tags > display

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Heron Model Boat Club Regatta by Carlosthepirate Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Heron Model Boat Club Regatta 2018 The "Big One" for us as a club and part of the Bay Fest 2018 Programme. Clubs have been invited from all over the southeast for this day of model boating on our home water in Memorial Park, Herne Bay, over 100 boats on display and on the water, Club 500, tug towing and more. we will have our "have a go" area for children of all ages to take the controls of an RC boat. Members and visitors to set up from 8:30am no earlier please. Canterbury City Council have granted us vehicle entry to the park which can be made from Kings Road via "Avenue of Remembrance" - please note that this is a public park, strict 5mph speed limit staying on the roads and paths as much as possible please. we look forward to seeing you there. HMBC heronsecretary@gmail.com

new post emails by Fireboat Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Boat Shed, This will be resolved when the new website launches. The new email format is also better designed to display on phones and desktops, with hyperlinks that go directly to the correct part of the website. Just don't ask when this will be live 😊 it's in development and I'll post further news as it gets closer to going live. Thanks, Stephen

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

Winnipeg Model Boat Club by Ishmael Seaman   Posted: 17 days ago
The Winnipeg Model Boat Club was formed in 1994 by a group of enthusiasts. We build model boats of various scales and subjects, both operational and static. While not specifically a radio control club, many of our members enjoy outfitting their boats for radio control operation. We are a noncompetitive club. On Sunday mornings and Wednesday evenings throughout the spring, summer and autumn, our members can be found sailing their boats at the Riley Family Duck Pond in Assiniboine Park. In winter, we meet monthly and talk about all things model boat-related as well as discuss current projects and plans. Our annual regatta is held in May at the Riley Family Duck Pond. We also take part in a number of public displays throughout the year at HMCS Chippawa, the Red River Exhibition and the Mega Train Show. For more information about the club or how to become a member, please contact us. We also proudly support: Naval Museum of Manitoba HMCS Chippawa 1 Navy Way, Winnipeg, MB Canada

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Launch day has come and gone. Overall I was very pleased with the way she looked on the water, but may I apologise for the quality of the video. First off, I was unable to get 1/200 scale dragonflies or a moorhen, which somewhat detracted from the realism, but most importantly, my ace photographer Octman was unable to make it. I promise to do better next time. I also learned that this is primarily a display model and it is so easy to damage or bend the many tiny parts. However, she has given me much pleasure both on the slipway and her short time on the water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPpt7j-WSTM

Rebuild Flower Class Corvette by boaty Captain   Posted: 23 days ago
Looks like a real bargain. Great when you have a model to sail and also display on your window sill. I built an Italeri PT 109 six years ago and this is the same. Its very rewarding when you motorise a plastic kit as when at the lakeside people come up and say did you really build that. Plastic magic never fails. Boaty😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Sounds like Albert Einstein's ghost!! 😲 Get well soon 👍 If you are happy with the arrangement in my table I'll knock up a wiring sketch for it. All the best, Doug 😎 PS: I used the MacAffee 'washing machine' to scrub the electrons before displaying your message 😁😁

Spektrum, new, useless... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. It worked for my two Futaba T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. It is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. In contrast all the electrics in this "Futaba,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK, I plugged in the 5 cell pack and it said 6.37 Volts, so I guess it's fully charged. I'll have to use the voltage as an idea of capacity remaining I suppose. It also doesn't show the same display as the ad shows. It says Nixx at the top left instead of NiCd and NiMh at the bottom left. If it says 6.37 Volts is that indicative of a full charge? Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Martin, my PTB problems will take a while to sort but I was anticipating a complete refit anyway. Soooo --- Basically Ron's right about the charger👍 Press 'Batt Type' and then 'Dec' a few times until 'PROGRAM SELECT NiMh BATT (pic one) appears in the display. Press 'Enter' and pic two should appear. Press 'Dec' so that 'NiMH CHARGE Aut' appears in display. Seems the default current is set to 0.6A in this mode. Leave it at that. If not 0.6A use the INC/DEC button to adjust it to that. Press 'Start/Enter' for more than 3 seconds and away it'll go. Charge time depends on the capacity of the battery. Rule is Capacity (C) in Ah/Charge current (I)x1.4 hours. Example; a 2Ah (2000mAh) at 0.6A would need (2/0.6)x1.4 = 4.66r hours, or about 280 minutes. The charger should stop at the right time automatically. BUT: check the capacity of your new battery with your new toy first! If it has residual capacity significantly greater than about 30% and voltage of more than 1.1V it should be fully discharged down to 1.0V minimum first. There is a function in the charger to do this. Then charge it as above with the Auto mode at 0.6A. This is to help prevent the so called memory effect. Extract from imax manual page 9- "Some rechargeable batteries have a memory effect. If they are partly used and recharged before the whole charge is accomplished, they remember this and will only use that part of their capacity next time. This is a 'memory effect' It is said that NiCd and NiMH batteries are suffering from memory effect. NiCd has more memory effect than NiMH." Don't get too charged up😉 I envy you listening to 'The Navy Lark' 😲 A Sunday afternoon delight back then. Before or after 'Desert Island Discs'? HMS Troutbridge, Capt. Poby "HENRY are you wearing odd socks?" - "No my love", Number One Sub Lieutenant (Leslie) Philips "Cor! Who threw that?", CPO (Bill) Pertwee, and "Bridge? Staaarboard Lookout Able an' when am I gonna be Leadin' Seaman Goldsteen (?) 'ere. I jus' thought you might like to know that we're 'eadin straight for the Admiral's Barge an' maybe you'd like to change course or summat"! Luvly stuff 😁 Cheers and good night from Munich, Doug 😎 PS: Well meant Haverlock but I wouldn't recommend fast charging for any battery chemistry, MAX 1A charge current for any battery, except perhaps a car battery but then Max 5A. It reduces the useful lifetime of the battery. Fast charge rates are more or less a marketing gimmick, it just means you CAN charge at higher rates without the battery exploding. Of course the manufacturers are very happy if you do do it and then have to buy new batteries more frequently because you've reduced their capacity and shortened their life. Most especially a brand new battery should NEVER be Fast charged. To get maximum life and capacity out of a new battery it should actually run through about 10 discharge / charge cycles to condition it for maximum output and minimum memory effect. Martin: check the label or packaging of your battery for 'Standard' and 'Fast' charge current! PPS: a fully charged 5 cell NiMh can be significantly above 6.0V. Up to ~6.5V, which is why I warned Martin to check the specs of his RX and any ESC. Some are rated for 5V only and go pop at 6V. That's why I only use 4 cell NiMh packs for my external RX supply. 1.2V per cell is only the nominal rating of an NiMh cell, fully or over charged they can go up to nearly 1.28V per cell.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, Doug: This morning while I was browsing Hobbytron.com (the site I bought my Richardson from) I stumbled upon another iteration of the tug called “Atlantic” (photos attached). I don’t remember seeing this version on the site back when I chose the Richardson. The overview photo shows a transmitter that’s different from mine; something other than 2.4ghz maybe? The display base has the name “Southampton” on it which adds to the confusion. I wonder if Hobby Engine any other boats besides the Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton trio & their assorted options or if there are others? Pete

Fire Float info. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, Yes it is a folding mast, quite a few of these type of boats had folding masts. Will have a look at my archives to see if I have any suitable details, it may take about a week as my computer is in the attic, and I'm in the middle of getting ready for the Sunday display at WMBC. At Cob House country park. Cheers Colin.

Ishimasa. Blue Sonic 600. yacht. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, and anyone else reading this post sorry for the delay. Managed to get boat out of trailer today, see the photos and you will notice my concern. I think that it really should have another servo. have powered the motor, it takes 2 AAA batteries, 3volts.the sweep switch that is connected to it is just forwards and backwards, not sure about the servo as haven't removed it yet. the connector to the RX is rather big with 3 pins not sockets with red, black and purple wires. All input gratefully received. after much research managed to ascertain that less than a 1000 came into UK in the early 1970's Cheers all, will be at WMBC display on Sunday with a trailer full of my boats. Cheers to all Colin.