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>> Home > Tags > display

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Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
OK, I plugged in the 5 cell pack and it said 6.37 Volts, so I guess it's fully charged. I'll have to use the voltage as an idea of capacity remaining I suppose. It also doesn't show the same display as the ad shows. It says Nixx at the top left instead of NiCd and NiMh at the bottom left. If it says 6.37 Volts is that indicative of a full charge? Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Mornin' Martin, my PTB problems will take a while to sort but I was anticipating a complete refit anyway. Soooo --- Basically Ron's right about the charger👍 Press 'Batt Type' and then 'Dec' a few times until 'PROGRAM SELECT NiMh BATT (pic one) appears in the display. Press 'Enter' and pic two should appear. Press 'Dec' so that 'NiMH CHARGE Aut' appears in display. Seems the default current is set to 0.6A in this mode. Leave it at that. If not 0.6A use the INC/DEC button to adjust it to that. Press 'Start/Enter' for more than 3 seconds and away it'll go. Charge time depends on the capacity of the battery. Rule is Capacity (C) in Ah/Charge current (I)x1.4 hours. Example; a 2Ah (2000mAh) at 0.6A would need (2/0.6)x1.4 = 4.66r hours, or about 280 minutes. The charger should stop at the right time automatically. BUT: check the capacity of your new battery with your new toy first! If it has residual capacity significantly greater than about 30% and voltage of more than 1.1V it should be fully discharged down to 1.0V minimum first. There is a function in the charger to do this. Then charge it as above with the Auto mode at 0.6A. This is to help prevent the so called memory effect. Extract from imax manual page 9- "Some rechargeable batteries have a memory effect. If they are partly used and recharged before the whole charge is accomplished, they remember this and will only use that part of their capacity next time. This is a 'memory effect' It is said that NiCd and NiMH batteries are suffering from memory effect. NiCd has more memory effect than NiMH." Don't get too charged up😉 I envy you listening to 'The Navy Lark' 😲 A Sunday afternoon delight back then. Before or after 'Desert Island Discs'? HMS Troutbridge, Capt. Poby "HENRY are you wearing odd socks?" - "No my love", Number One Sub Lieutenant (Leslie) Philips "Cor! Who threw that?", CPO (Bill) Pertwee, and "Bridge? Staaarboard Lookout Able an' when am I gonna be Leadin' Seaman Goldsteen (?) 'ere. I jus' thought you might like to know that we're 'eadin straight for the Admiral's Barge an' maybe you'd like to change course or summat"! Luvly stuff 😁 Cheers and good night from Munich, Doug 😎 PS: Well meant Haverlock but I wouldn't recommend fast charging for any battery chemistry, MAX 1A charge current for any battery, except perhaps a car battery but then Max 5A. It reduces the useful lifetime of the battery. Fast charge rates are more or less a marketing gimmick, it just means you CAN charge at higher rates without the battery exploding. Of course the manufacturers are very happy if you do do it and then have to buy new batteries more frequently because you've reduced their capacity and shortened their life. Most especially a brand new battery should NEVER be Fast charged. To get maximum life and capacity out of a new battery it should actually run through about 10 discharge / charge cycles to condition it for maximum output and minimum memory effect. Martin: check the label or packaging of your battery for 'Standard' and 'Fast' charge current! PPS: a fully charged 5 cell NiMh can be significantly above 6.0V. Up to ~6.5V, which is why I warned Martin to check the specs of his RX and any ESC. Some are rated for 5V only and go pop at 6V. That's why I only use 4 cell NiMh packs for my external RX supply. 1.2V per cell is only the nominal rating of an NiMh cell, fully or over charged they can go up to nearly 1.28V per cell.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi, Doug: This morning while I was browsing Hobbytron.com (the site I bought my Richardson from) I stumbled upon another iteration of the tug called “Atlantic” (photos attached). I don’t remember seeing this version on the site back when I chose the Richardson. The overview photo shows a transmitter that’s different from mine; something other than 2.4ghz maybe? The display base has the name “Southampton” on it which adds to the confusion. I wonder if Hobby Engine any other boats besides the Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton trio & their assorted options or if there are others? Pete

Fire Float info. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Martin, Yes it is a folding mast, quite a few of these type of boats had folding masts. Will have a look at my archives to see if I have any suitable details, it may take about a week as my computer is in the attic, and I'm in the middle of getting ready for the Sunday display at WMBC. At Cob House country park. Cheers Colin.

Ishimasa. Blue Sonic 600. yacht. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Doug, and anyone else reading this post sorry for the delay. Managed to get boat out of trailer today, see the photos and you will notice my concern. I think that it really should have another servo. have powered the motor, it takes 2 AAA batteries, 3volts.the sweep switch that is connected to it is just forwards and backwards, not sure about the servo as haven't removed it yet. the connector to the RX is rather big with 3 pins not sockets with red, black and purple wires. All input gratefully received. after much research managed to ascertain that less than a 1000 came into UK in the early 1970's Cheers all, will be at WMBC display on Sunday with a trailer full of my boats. Cheers to all Colin.

Wherry hull in GRP by CB90 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
My Father made a Wherry see attached pictures. There is a lot of research required for an accurate model, note the sail winch has to swing out of the way for the mast to fold down, the real mast is counter balanced so it can be raised and lowered. Also note a Wherry is never painted green! The keel and weight distribution can help the forward mast position and a tendency for the bow to be low in the water on models. My Dad also made a large scale version which was displayed outside of the Norfolk Wherry Museum

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi TJ, we've been here before! See your previous query and our answers in - https://model-boats.com/forum/general-resources/40352?t=1527... I have some experience with the TGY-i6 set recommended there and a very good 100% English manual (no bl..dy Chenglish!) so can help with the setup if you need it. See attached. This is the German branded version I bought here in Munich where I live. Apart from the German brand name 'Reely' it is identical to the TGY and FlySky versions. If you need any help setting it up PM me. I think the Planet stuff and similar may disappoint you cos the display does not tell you so much about what's going on as the TGY sets do. I have set mine up for a variety of boats / ships including my Sea Scout cabin cruiser, an H class 1936 RN destroyer and a 1936 German U-Boat type IIA. No problems 😉 Whatever you do have fun with it and welcome to the 'Nutters Community' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: As an Ex Pat who has lived here (Munich) for over 30 years and has worked on several versions of Fast Patrol Boats all over the world, including Lürssen Werft types, please note that the boat was called a 'Schnellboot' = Fast boat! No more😉

Duke of Cornwall by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 23 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 51"/7000g Duke of Cornwall Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electrinize (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a static scratch built model constructed by a model engineer probably in 1970s, I was gifted the boat by the local RNLI Branch with the proviso I looked after it and occasionally displayed it on Flag Days. The boat is a model of the Lizard and Cadgwith lifeboat 'Duke of Cornwall' which saw service for 20 years and saved 95 lives. I have fitted 6 channel San,wa remote control and the Torpedo engines and batteries. She runs very well on the water and achieves a good scale speed when both motors are at full power. Batteries are 12 volt gel type and new, I have never had a problem with endurance. Control is by two Electronize speed controllers which plug in independently to receiver. She has a two tone siren, worked from retract servo switch, which is useful for clearing a way through birds. Steering (like the real thing) was rather sluggish, a single blade rudder but it improves by using the two engines. She is pretty heavy to lift into the car, I use nylon strops to lower her into water. I have done several adjustments to her topside so that she more correctly resembles the 1962 Barnett lifeboat she is modelled on, main adjustment was to put mahogany veneer onto to forward and rear bulwarks, as the originals had. The original boat topside was painted grey and it was only later that areas were painted orange, she is a non self righting lifeboat one of the last of this type and modifications were made in the mid sixties to seal off the rear doors and provide a watertight compartment, as well as fully enclosing the wheelhouse (the model's wheelhouse is open at the rear, as was the original. All hatches and doors open. The railings are chain link and seem to be a very good match to the ones fitted. My only issue at the moment is the radio wires which seem to be very vulnerable, have used electric thread but not a great solution - something to look out for. I have purchased 3 crew and am about to paint them, two will be in the wheelhouse.

getting a bit slow?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Re: 'New Posts'; when you log on to site on the 'Home Page' the latest post are displayed. Scroll down and at the bottom you will find a 'Show earlier posts' button, in case you have missed something. Your dioramas sound marvellous👍 can you post some pics??? Could give me some inspiration for my 1/24th Mosquito. At that scale it has a wingspan of about 30 inches 😲 I intend to fit it with motors and lights and a sound module with that wonderful Merlin sound 😊 Your input could help create a great diorama 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

getting a bit slow?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Sorry, I didn't realise there had been any follow up to this. (May I suggest a "View New Posts" button? Or am I missing something) I think my remarks a year ago were perfectly valid, now you remind me of them. I thought I'd been offensive or something. I see no cause for offense there. Teejay, you, too, have misunderstood my post. I was saying why I had left model railways, a hobby of a lifetime so far. THAT alone was the area of kit snobbery. Not here, or in model aircraft forums, which are nearly all kit based, yet I am a happy member of Large Scale Planes and Britmodeller. Mainly because two old friends tend to communicate with me that way. Doug, I have a 1/48th scale Mk1 Airfix Spitfire which I have turned into the First Flight in zinc chromate and polished metal, because I don't do military (liveries, at least) and have made a scratchbuilt photographer and his plate camera for the set-piece. It all sits on a bit of died lint grass. Then I have a 1/48th scale Airfix English Electric Lightning as it's a superb kit and impressive in that scale. I got it cheap off ebay. I also bought an Italian resin kit of a Houchin start-up compressor to go with it, which was amazing value and have made a tarmac set-piece ready for displaying that lot on. It was purely to save time getting something I just fancied doing. It's the foil covering on the Lightning I fancied doing. No snobbery there and when others buy loads of aftermarket stuff to add to it, none there either. And they usually make it all fit themselves. They don't pay someone else to do it. If injury or health demands it, that's a very different kettle of fish, but those sort of people rarely, if ever,brag. So, once and for all, nothing I said this time had any reference to this forum or this hobby. What I said a year ago I meant, but perhaps it was a bad day. I always read what I type as my hard, dry old fingertips slip around the keyboard and I wouldn't understand my own typing if I didn't check it. Doug has indeed helped others and me too. But so, I think, have I. Indeed that has always been my intention after a lifetime in modelmaking. Cheers, Martin

36’ USCG Rescue Boat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
The Coast Guard Station had the boat on display in New Port, Oregon. A movie based on a true event, featured this style of boat and it’s crew in a rescue of Cape Cod.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I think one of the mistakes people make is to assume that they must run their models with others of a similar ilk. That rather means a club of some sort. I say organise a loose grouping and find a river. You can buy a little dinghy/outboard combo for very cheap as a rescue boat if you can't get to the sides all round. Since the river will have diesel and petrol boats on it, you're fine. Canal Locks can be ideal and many (most) are not manned by any pretence at a Jobswuff. Some rivers have no speed limit sections, such as the River Nene and, last I looked, the Yare. So join in. There's nothing sacrosanct about model boat ponds and anyway if the Council Nazis have decided No IC, they are no longer model boat ponds, since that was all there was at one time. I ran a model boat display on the Well Creek in the Fens a few years back and we had no other than the famous AMPS man, Miller Agnew,with his Rossi powered outboards on his gorgeous tunnel hulls, models of real F1 powerboats. He came with the Cambridge club whose secretary made a point at day's end of thanking me for asking them. They had never run on a river before and all loved it. They had R/C water skiing, racing, you name it and all thoroughly enjoyed it. In the end the Police had to move the traffic on the main road opposite who had stopped to watch. A Rossi powered F1 at full chat on a river only 20 feet wide is something to see. Apparently Mr. Agnew was heard to say that "this is proper model boating". So, go rivers, young man. My, we'll be running out of middle fingers in no time! Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Novagsio, you have Basil Miles engines? Please install and enjoy them. They are rare and wonderful and part of the ED history. I have a Racer and I used to work with a guy who was once a British Hydro champion with a Basil Miles engine. If I was rich I'd install a Hydro pond and middle finger the worthless council. Don't put the engines in a drawer, display them with pride in a dedicated cabinet and make sure it smells of diesel fuel And invite me round for a good sniff. Martin