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>> Home > Tags > drawings

drawings
drawings
Folding Bulwark????! by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Thank you. I have indeed scrolled to that and it is the file that downloaded without telling me it was or had so. In the index page 200 mentions collapsible bulwarks and this is found actually on page 212 in the pdf. It seems to refer to lifeboats and albeit a few pages several are blocked from view as are some of the drawings. I believe It said one has to be a member in order to see those pages. I don't think that the information concerns the ship's bulwark but rather the side of a ship's lifeboat. What was it that you read? Am I yet in the wrong link. T

HMS EXETER by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Cheers Doug for the compliment - she is 1:96 scale. I obtained the original plans from Greenwich maritime museum - the plans that they hold are as she was 'proposed to be built' in 1928 - the same as her sister ship HMS YORK - but amongst the drawings they supply are the correct hull lines - which are the ones I used for my hull - then I used literally thousands of images from all over the place to do the rest of the superstructure. Also, I used the aid of a small online plan of her rigging which shows a fair amount of superstructure detail of how she was built.

Damen Stan 4207 Plans by RayA Apprentice   Posted: 11 days ago
I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making. I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib. I purchased a Sports Game Racing Boat, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib. Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale. I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy. I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy. This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge. Thank you for bearing with me. RayA

Keel by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Printed out the frames /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local woodworking supply store. It's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe

1950s sea commander refurb. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
".......If you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use paint.net.... Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save........" The fully-featured Open Source image processing package is called 'The Gimp'. You can download it for free, and it enables you to perform any image manipulation process you like - matching professional packages like Photoshop. I use it to create full drawings of vintage model boat plans which are often sent to me as a set of partial A4-sized scans. These can easily be re-sized, rotated, matched up and stitched together to make a full-sized drawing. For example, look at any of the Stirling plans on my Old Boats website: http://oldboats.tk/Sterling1.html

Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas? by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified. Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me. Looking at potential scales and finished sizes. * 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64" * 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75" * 3/8" equals 8" x 32" I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull. Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections. Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats. Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe

SS HUNAN drawings by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Just received a very helpful file transfer from the SOAS Archive in London showing a plan with the changes made to the SS Hunan. Just go to the local copy shop to print the 800mb file. So the plan issued in the 1990s was that for this later version. Interesting considering that the ship was built 1932 and then re- fitted in 1958 and then scrapped 4 years later in 1962. So, unusual that a plan for the short lived version was considered for a model rather than that of its appearance for 26 years. Toby

Help to indentify this tug please by al2612 Petty Officer   Posted: 19 days ago
Gary - have now got some details it would seem the description for the pic on the IWM website is incorrect as it describes it as a Tid tug - hence my searches were revealing nothing also now EMP makes sense - will start looking for suitable drawings plans etc - Tx Alan

SS HUNAN drawings by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Very good so far. The hull has been tested and the prop and rudder tested and now am creating ballast by making lead blocks to suit. The Glasgow archives had plans and photos and the staff was very obliging. Also I have found that the Swires ship business archive is held in London and they have a plan showing the changes which were made in 1953 or 1958. I cannot determine yet which because the image in the email reply was not of high definition. The staff there to date have been helpful. Then I will have to decide on whether to proceed with the later fitting out ore finish the superstructure in its original as fitted. Built in 1932 and scrapped in 1962 clearly it remained in its original fitting twice longer than the time from re- fitting to being scrapped. Likely this would account for the lack of photos in its second fitting. Don't have all the details but it largely appears to be an addition of poop deck superstructure and to such on the rear main deck. Needless there will be details lost or added in the area where these rooms were added. So will have to compare and decide and finish the build. If I can see a copy of the drawing for the revised fitting I will likely make a list and images for the benefit of others in treated in building this vessel. Toby

Lazer cut Kits by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
There would be no need to remove them if you simply follow the correct procedure and ask permission from the rights holder. I have found that Amerang are quite happy to allow people to make use of their old plans. They were happy for me to reverse engineer the kits, create line drawings and place them on my web site for the use of younger modellers. Maybe you came across them there? If you had asked, I could have given you a .DXF file and saved you some work......

Lazer cut Kits by HAKits Petty Officer   Posted: 22 days ago
Hello, As i said the kits are based on models i built in my youth. Now i am retired i enjoy drawing in cad and the challenge of turning my drawings into models, I thought other people might wish to build my models especially younger builders and so i sell the kits at cost. I take on board your helpful comment and will remove them from my advertising.

Fort/Park by shipbuilder3770 Seaman   Posted: 23 days ago
This is a 1:100 scratch build of an (unnamed) Fort/Park class freighter, based on Jim Pottinger's drawings of a North Sands design. I'm building this as a DEMS ship. It has smoke and an overboard water discharge (if it works!). These ships were built in many Canadian shipyards during WW2. Some went to British Admiralty - with Fort XXX names - and some went to Canadian government - named for Can. parks. I haven't yet decided on the name for this model.

Being Sociable. by Peejay Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 26 days ago
My memory is kicking in, now. My first little steamer was a "Putt-Putt Boat," NOT a "Pop-Pop" boat. These had a little boiler over a candle or a heat tab that directed the steam out a little underwater pipe in the back of the boat. The boiler would make a "putt-putt" sound, which gave them there name. The one I have now is a tinplate reproduction toy. It is designed to run like the old ones did -- I just haven't done it yet. I have also seen a larger one of these in a 1940s book like "The Boy Mechanic," where copper tubing was used for the "boiler." The two ends of the tubing were directed aft at a shallow angle, just like stuffing boxes, and the middle of the tubing was would in a coil with three to four turns and supported so that a can of "canned heat," used for keeping chafing dishes hot, could be inserted under the coil to generate the steam. If I recall correctly, the two ends (steam pipes) have to be bent so they are both a little higher than the bottom of the coil to avoid having all the water drain out immediately. If I find that book I will post any drawings they have.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I agree with Rob, Mike Cummings is such a nice guy he has been so supportive with my build sending me copies of drawings I may need without even asking, he even sent me a Christmas card. Keep up the good work Rob

Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
'tis true but I just provided drawings to my brother...him with the lathe 😁