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>> Home > Tags > drill

First test run by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Decided to try it out Sunday, no major problems need a bit more weight in the back. Good turn of speed even with old recycled ni-cads from a drill pack. will be looking to get a lipo pack in the new year but pleased.

Motor installation by GARTH Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
I had some 12 volt motor out of Black & Decker drills so I will use one I find that if motor isn't installed early it becomes very difficult to mount motors in a completed hull .Line up to shaft & couplings . the other thing is I us a Graupner flex coupling . They work great only problem they are no long available any where .

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hehe, I'm not sure how the plastic would react to a tap, worth a punt I guess. Always print a smaller hole than req'd & open out with a drill. Tip for the day, run the drill in reverse, it still cuts & leaves a much nicer finish👍 Cheers Wayne

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Chris I know of no easy way for you to determine the voltage. However motors do have a coil resistance value measured across the terminals. Also if you can see the coil windings a thick wire usually indicates a motor designed for high speed and current. A thinner wire may produce a motor with lower speed and less current and more tork. If you check the Graupner and look at the windings this may help you identify the other two. In my experience it's usually too low a voltage that's the problem resulting in slow revs and little if any tork. At the other end of the scale too high a voltage will result in very high revs and lots of sparks from the brushes. In this case if you continue to apply the volts you will damage the motor. Many electric drills were powered by motors rated at 9v and did indeed have an impeller cooling fan. That said Mabuchi and Johnson produced a vast range of motors all looking similar on the outside but wired very differently inside depending on the ultimate use. I suggest you try with progressively higher voltages and assess which is best for the two unknowns. Finally most motors are designed to work over a range of voltages so I usually measure both the upper and lower values so I can select the right motor for a particular model.

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Deja vu?? Are these the MFA drill motors we discussed some time ago? Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
HI Neville, why did i move the bridge, Ha. the main reason was to make my boat different to the standard, i cut away the staircase and a small part of the railing, re-drilled the mounting holes and basically that was it, i have 4 of these, so each one is different, none except Richardson have the stairs, the first i re-painted in Smit colors, second was like the first but only removed the name and re-named as Itchen Marine Wyforce, using vinyl decals i had made, the third re-painted in Wiesmuller colours, but with the funnels re-located on top of the air intakes with a firefighting bridge across with 2 fire nozzles, they all get a lot of interest, cost very little to alter but are different. Mark

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Super news, just been in the workshop, only lost the Bounty and the Queen, rest only suffered minor damage, losses include my cordless drill, lifting beam and hoist, they were what did the damage inside. My old PC was squashed as well, but it was already dead, but the assessor has agreed to a replacement, also a new drill hoist and beam and the building works, I'll also need a new side door as it used to open inwards but had to be cut out to gain access. New roof beams arrive tomorrow, the boys think roof will be done for weekend. Housing people are being very good about it all. Off to PC World, tomorrow to look at a replacement, seems every cloud really does have a silver lining. I'm feeling much happier now I've been in my workshop and been able to help clear it up. Just waiting for the doctors decision on my knee and hip and back problems, as I'm fed up being on pain killers that make me feel so useless. My brain only seems to function properly when I'm in pain, but then my body doesn't like to work. Oh well stop feeling sorry for myself there's others far worse off. Cheers all Colin.

Sunk Boat Marker Buoy System by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I presume you want to know how to attach the line, I drill through the center and put a 3" long cocktail stick through the hole and glue in place with epoxy. Then a piece of fine stiff wire formed into a U is bound and glued on the bottom of stick. Then painted in bright colours. Small flag can be put on the top if wanted. Attach a suitable length of fishing line to the wire loop and other end to the boat. I then use a PVA bag to coil the line in. This desolves in water.( available in fishing tackle shops). So if boat sinks bag desolves and releases line.

Added extras by Flack Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug no nut and bolt honest 😜😜 What is this fillet you and Dave talk about and how is it achieved as I presume its easier than fitting the support and drilling more holes in the keel? Also now I've extended the hole I obviously exposed new wood do I need to apply sanding sealer before applying glue or just slap it one. Do the photos look OK to start gluing??

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Sorry was in a rush this morning so misnamed the water scoop hole as the skeg. As regards the skeg you don't need it. Just fit the propshaft and then fill below with a fillet of wood as used in the original Aerokit models and mine. An oiler is useful but your shaft doesn't have one and for a novice they can be difficult to fit. Like Doug I solder mine. I see my friend Steve at Model Boat Bits stocks easy fit oilers and they would be fine if they are the right size for your propshaft. If you do get one make sure you remove the propshaft before drilling the tube and get all the swarf out afterwards. Dave

Rudder Position by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
If I were you I'd leave them alone until you know how the boat behaves. Most important is to shift the prop shaft forward until the prop is about half an inch forward of the water intake. i wouldn't worry about the intake pipe, not worth the effort. If you want to move the rudder stock you'll have to move it forward or back a bit to ensure the drill for the new hole doesn't constantly try to slide into the old one, whatever it's filled with! I would drill it out until you can epoxy glue a tight fitting wooden dowel into it. Doug

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks both Doug and Dave I do have a couple of different mounts which were purchased to try and get round my sticky motor which initially proved to the glue holding the shaft had failed causing vibration and the old diesel mount causing misalignment. I have just recently even purchased a plastic type mount like the one you have Doug😉 Should have removed the mount when you suggested it a year ago Dave but a little scared now I can start a fresh. Now thats done and new lease of life should see me busy at the weekend. Little concerned on the hungry and smelly motor but like the idea of a Lipo with Tamiya connector will have a look for those later. Was a little worried about drilling through but like the idea of dowel and sand paper nice and easy I think until I get bored and then probably resort to the drill lol. Thanks for all the advice and the confidence you guys give. Ill update my year old blog with progress over the next couple of weeks.😁😁

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave