Hi Added the three motor mounts and reinforcements, predrilled mounting holes and shaft exit before fixing into position. Used a long shaft and a dab of paint on the end of it, to mark the points of the motor positions, the use a small right-angle to angle to set the mount 90 degrees to the shaft. Now waiting for some nuts, bolts, spacers and washers Thanks Roy
The kits came with the tapered masts. I did have make one of the masts over as it was warped.What I did was purchase a 1/2” hard wood dowel marked the center and smaller diameter on one end then used a small razor plane to taper it to almost the shape I needed then cut the lenth just a bit longer so I could fit it into my 1/2 drill chock fastened the drill to my work bench and used it like a makeshift lath then used sandpaper to smooth and shape the final taper needed. Hope this helps Mike
Bon appetites, mon Braves. I have stopped doing Vincent heads (my neck feels like it'll break) and started looking for stuff. The Supermarine is, I hope to hopes, in the loft. But, whilst looking for the drill motor, I found the speed 400 from the electric Ugly Stik aeroplane. I'm wondering if that will power the Sea Hornet. Not sure what voltage they run at, so I'm orff to check that out. Also found the Hornet II model I carved in the hope I could get it scanned and sections (i.e. frames) made. 2 down, 2 to go! Fingers crossed. Cheers, Martin
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin
Hi Martin, I assume your Sea Hornet is the 24 x 8 inch version. Which means your hull is the same as my Sea Scout. You just have a different topside! As you have seen my Sea Scout with that hull does pretty well on a 35mm prop. https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGwhttps://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Which drill motor is it? What was the drill voltage? Cheers, Doug 😎
Hia ll, I want to fit a drill motor to the Chris-Craft (basically a modified Aerokits Sea Hornet). I want a quick fit, to use with my existing ESCs. I can get a motor for a fiver. I have a shaft, can make couplings, but what size prop would you suggest for such a motor and boat? I want to stay within around 20 Amps for the ESC's sake. I ask only that the boat lifts a bit. Most woodies were not actually that quick, they just looked it. Thanks for any advice. I can make almost anything, but have little or no experience of working models. Cheers, Martin
Dry fitting pro-shafts (Note, all shafts parallel with the keel) Drilled with an old prop-shaft which I modified to a cutting tool then finished with a round file and cut slots for propeller-shaft support bracket with a hacksaw, file and knife. Note these shafts are lightweight aluminium tube with steel liners and steel shafts. props at currently 40mm but as with all things scale things are not always practical in scale size such as propellers and rudders and in this case the direction of rotation (not all going round clockwise).
Prompted by Onetenor's diligence in scouring the net for tools which may help us build our masterpieces! 'BRAVO ZULU that man'!👍 Last of John's discoveries, carried over from NPJ's 'Leaking Boat' 😲 "Would this be any good for RC wiring--https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Cr... or this one--https://www.banggood.com/New-Multifunctional-Automatic-Wire-... If not any suggestions?" My first impressions- Link #1 Great, IF you do a lot of LAN cable stripping for RJ45 connectors and the like. Overkill for us? Link #2 OK, but still a little overkill but the price ain't bad. Pic shows the wire stripper I've been happily using for 30 odd years. (Some years were VERY odd😁) adjustable for all wire gauges; squeeze, twist & pull and you're good to go! The pic shows the four tools I use (plus soldering iron of course) for all my 'Lectrickery' and LED Magic etc. Not one is less than 38 years old (neither am I by a very long chalk🤔) Cheers, All, Doug 😎
Seal off the gettable area with polythene put the hull in the domestic test tank then using a cycle pump put air into the sealed area watch for bubbles appearing (like looking for leaks in an inner tube) No bubbles no leak, move to the sealed area drill a small hole enough to get a football valve adapter in and again apply pressure and look for bubbles if there are bubbles and this is where the leak is you could enlarge the hole that the adaptor was fitted through and pour in some sealer and swirl it around .or cover the whole of the exterior of the hull with a liberal coating of clear sealer . Cheers Marky
I have several sets like that. Bought over the years from this shop and that. Lately mainly Lidl and Aldi. They are all the same quality and work perfectly. I am a professional modelmaker, so I've put these things through the mill over time and never had any complaints. I tend to use my Proxxon drill, which is always flat out as the electronic speed control packed up so I wired it straight through. That might explain why the drum sanders struggle a bit sometimes. I now use them on a drill with a lower speed capability and they're doing better. Grinders never last long, so it's as well to have as many as you can gather. I think the fact is, these tools are only likely to be made by one or two companies, so all are as good as each other. And they come in such NICE boxes! Martin
Continuing with the cabin, trying to keep it light in weight. The sides and inner former's made up, started on the front windscreen's. Forgot the procedure about cutting the windows and then fitting the veneer, fitted the veneer and had to cut out the windows veneer and 3mm ply all glued up. Once the apertures were marked out, purposely drilled though from the veneer side just trying to avoid any splitting of the veneer, it worked. Fitted the front screens and reinforced the framework with 5 min epoxy, a quick sand down and all was well. Next item was the roof, as i wanted a light as possible upper works decided on .8mm ply, it looked and felt a little fragile, but once the Titebond glue was applyed all held down with elastic bands, also using 3 strips of 3/8" x 1/8" Obechie longitudinally down the top of the cabin roof to help stop ant edge "Barrelling" at formers. Regards Muddy.
After some calculations I find I need to extend the reinforcing for the port & starboard shafts forward towards the bow. Created some wooden guides when drilling the prop-shaft holes and glued them in position temporarily, as you make expect the drill needs to be rather long, so I made one out of an old brass shaft basically sharpening it so it could cut wood. Next job will be to cut out for integrated shaft support brackets (2mm wide and minimum of 35mm long slot) and the tube shafts are 8.5mm in diameter.
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.