Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
December 2017: 2 people
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 19 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (20)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > drill

How do I make Bow Railings by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
HI Grandpa, If you mean the entire pulpit railing from cabin to the bow and round. First measure the deck, marking where each upright will be, the uprights seem to be the same height, so that part is easy, source some 16g welding rod, (stainless will be to difficult to braze) then shape to the size of the deck, try to keep the bends smooth as it may kink. Second. Get a scrap board bit bigger than your deck, mark each stanchion position and drill holes to match, stand the stanchions in the holes and start to lay the top rail silver solder for strength each stanchion as you get to it, might be easier to work side to side towards the bow, this will stop you burning your fingers!!!! To finish you could have the rails chromed or use a chrome spray paint, can't tell if the rails have feet (small washers) if so add these over the stanchions before you solder the top rail, they will stop them going too deep into the deck, finally drill and glue the railing into the deck, a sod of a job but the look will enhance your model Hope this helps Mark

Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. If your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.

More Prop Shaft by GARTH Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
I'm reading the chat about stuffing boxes & shafts lots of guys in the club I'm in drill a hole into the stuffing box & solder a small tube over the hole to add oil or grease into the box . I goofed when I built my Sea Commander as I had no stuffing box but I had a shaft so I just used a brass tube for the shaft & lubricated the shaft with Sil-Glyde Lubricating compound a Silicone based grease I also use rudder O-Rings to help stop water getting into model through stuffing box. Kind of Mickey Mouse but it works .Except on first run out of water it does squeal a little but in the water it's fine.

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.

wardrobe by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
yes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.

More handrails fitted by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 29 days ago
Following a visit to the International boat show for bits and pieces I took advantage of x-factory rubbish on the TV to escape the wife, and do some more on the boat. Handrails to the rear in progress. Interesting tip I bought some 3/32 steam nipple fittings which after running a 2mm drill to the point allow my 2mm brass wire to push through. The idea being a nice finish to the bottom of the handrail and a secure mounting hole so the hand rail can be removed if needed. see picture you will get the idea the ladder one is a lager size 1/8 fitting for welding wire. Just need to add the cross pieces and solder up.

International Model Boat Show by tidtug Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Went today brilliant show as usual . A good stand with lots of power tools and drill stands . The other addition this year was a layout for Tamya lorries,yes the whole show is worth it if you can make it.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for the offer Paul, however I have a large amount of tools and equipment having been a service engineer, also into British motorcycles and old cars previously and had a magpie attitude to all things tools including taps and dies,helicoils and the like, I also have a boxford lathe so am capable of making the odd items when needed. Another thing I have learnt, 3mm props are available, and yes if needed I can drill and tap it to 4 BA (I have most of the BA taps and some dies) that will also save having to rip the boat apart. Yes Haverlock trying it in the bath would be a good idea, however I have a friends pond just down the road and think it may be a bit prudent to use that.😆

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
yeah I agree Richard, I sort of went away from topic there. I've had a look in the man shed, I have some 4ba taps, so if you need some props, get some mm ones (poss 3mm as 4 mm is bigger?) and if you need them I can drill and tap for you. Also, if you use a cheap plastic prop, you can use a 4ba nut on the shaft with some thread lock, and lock the 4mm prop up against it. Pity you are not closer, I would have done it for you whilst here. Good luck! Paul

International Model Boat Show by glyn44 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, I’m glad to hear that as I have a list as long as my arm. Will be attending on Friday. Hoping to buy as much as I can towards a Fairey Huntress scratch build. I am also setting up a new workshop. I am looking to get a scroll saw, table saw, and bench pillar drill. Is it all likely I may buy them at the show? I’m not sure what to expect there as this will be my first visit. Happy days.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, looking at the markings on the motor case, it might be a 550 type, and rated at 7.2 volts, so it would seem to be at the top end of its capacity, did you manage to get the prop diameter? also is it plastic or brass? A 600 motor is a bit larger size and power wise but would still fit your motor mount, they are common in power drills so usually have plenty of torque, but can be power hungry. A prop to suit would be about 40mm, 2 blade or 35mm 3 blade both in brass, plastic props tend to be racing types with deep cuffs on the blades, possibly the cause of the burnout! The 850 is a lot larger and more powerful but would need a new mount and again is power hungry, probably needing 12 volts as well. Have a look on ebay 600 motors are about £5, but check to see what the rating of your ESC is, needs to be at least 20amps, although if it survived cooking the old motor it must have a good rating. Add a 15 - 20 amp fuse for protection. Just had a thought, is the prop shaft stiff to turn? should spin freely without the motor connected, might have old oil or grease in the tube causing excessive drag, this could cook the motor as well. A pic of the prop and its size would be a great help. Hope this helps Mark

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
After reading your post Jarvo I went out to the workshop to check if the motor would run, it had got so hot it had melted the solder on the live feed connection so in a way saving it from going right up in smoke, an inline fuse may be a thing in the future, the motor is completely burnt out however the power box is OK. Thank you for the information about the larger motor, I am not sure which is the larger out of the two, I have posted some photos of them both as I am not up to speed with the rating numbers of the motors,maybe you could answer that question. However following up from Scout13 reply, although the cover over the prop shaft connection was in no way restricting air flow, ( I will drill some air flow holes in the cover to be 100% positive on that statement. The motor fixing bracket and the RE540/1 motor recommended for the Sea Commander and sold to me by the model shop, (I was given the other motor by a club member as I was informed it was the better out of the two) looks like the problem, if you look at the photo's you can see that the air flow holes are completely blanked out by the bracket, something I missed when fitting it.

Bulwarks, bollards, cleats and stanchions! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Another good day of detailing before light stopped play! Have now got 3 out oif 4 of the Bulwarks fitted, sanded and sealed ready to prime, will do the last one tomorrow after work. Have also fitted the fore and aft Bollards and side cleats. Have also drilled and test fitted one side of the stanchions which I am delighted with, really starting to look the part now. So, all thats left now is the final Bulwark, drill for remaining stanchions then prime and paint the deck, Bulwarks ect. Then final coats of laquer before adding the stanchions, wash boards and the various rope work, anchor ect. Another week or so inbetween work should see it finished!