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hi, I built this from scratch, drew my own plans from pictures I had so not exactly to scale it is about 14 inches long and sails well in my small pond. you can get the revel lightship on ebay some times but are getting rare now. david
The last model I made was built fully for £47! That included the £30 cost of the hull. I made the majority of parts from PVA board which I got from eBay for £10. Poundland glue and cocktail sticks to hold parts together. Also used wire to add edge to v doors and wire threaded through the forward rails. Made fenders by shaping wooden dowel on the lathe and painting and the best was the net... made from a dyed dishcloth!!! Pics attached of the various stages showing the construction!
I had originally made a platform and a servo mount out of ply to go in the stern compartment but I found that there was very little clearance left between the top of the servo and the underside of the cockpit deck and the arm and push-rod could foul on something, so I decided to scrap what I had made and invest in something a bit better engineered. I found quite a neat CNC machined aluminium mount on eBay that looked ideal and so I ordered one at a cost of just under £5 including delivery from China. I have not previously bought anything directly from a Chinese seller as I’d heard bad things about long delivery times and getting clobbered for import duty and such but I thought I’d risk it anyway. Surprisingly it arrived about 10 days later without extra costs and is quite well engineered. I decided to fix the servo mount to the bulkhead on some 15mm nylon PCB spacers with an internal 3mm tapped thread that I had in my electronics bits box. This was to allow the servo arm to move unrestricted over it’s travel arc. I used a servo tester to check the operation and it works a treat and looks a million times better that my original mount. I’ll probably replace the clevis attachments for a ball & socket type at a later stage.
Hi Steve Your link is personal to your ebay account so I can't view. I looked on ebay and found RC 2-8S LiPo LiFe Cell VOLTAGE CHECKER LOW VOLTAGE METER ALARM. If this is similar to what you have bought and with an alarm then it should be OK Dave
Thanks Dave, I applied my Black and Decker mouse detail sander to the hull, using only the weight of the sander. Turns out it has been epoxy coated, I have removed sufficient paint to see what is underneath it and there are 2 small areas where the wood is black and nasty. One consists of a few spots about half way between the bow and the stern, and mid way between the keel and the joint with the side skin, and the other is a line about 3 inches long and quarter inch wide running alongside the keel. The keel also seems to be poor on that side as well. What I really would like is a copy of the plans, so that I can see what I am dealing with. Nothing on E Bay! At the moment anyway. Chris
Hi and welcome to the site. If you are considering using an IC in the model I suggest you find a local club or water where you can sail. Many local authority waters prohibit IC engines. I see you recently asked for details of a club in Torquay and note that we do have a club registered (Model Boat Clubs) as Torbay and District MBC. You could try sending a pm to one of the members registered as sailing there and ask for details. Good looking crew! Dave
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave
I am in Teignmouth, not Torbay not that far though. Used to sail at Youngs Park. Then Crealy. Not sailing much now as the new pond ( can't call it a lake realy) at Canonteign falls doesn't fit my boats. That is why I am building Irene. ( build blogs).
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
Hello Paul well the bent shaft is another purchase i managed to find a complete shaft on eBay which is the same dimensions as the boat so hoping when it arrives it will fit but overall length is 230mm and outside diameter of tube is 8mm 😆 George