The basic of C rating is charge and discharge. ie 2200 mah X 25 max discharge, dont charge above 1amp as it will shorten the battery life and if you are getting close to the 50amp discharge the cells wont last long. The watt meter is fitted in line from the batteries to check what power you are drawing when sailing so giving you an idea about run time. The voltage beepers are needed to protect the cells from being discharged to far, below 3.3 volts and the cells can die. They are fitted into the dallance lead of each battery. There is a deal on ebay for Flurion 3s 2200 lipos £12-99 each i have 4 in use in my RAF Fire Tender with twin 700BB turbo motors, get about 15 mins at full throttle Mark
Hello Kathy! Can you post pictures of the collection? Perhaps any of us might be interested in any of the vessels. I am currently located in the D.C. area for a couple of months. The best for you would be to put them on Ebay. However, since you are in California, you may want to contact any of the West Coast clubs mentioned in http://wimodelboats.org/usclubs.html to see how they can help out. Best, b.
Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, shortnozzle and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.
Hi Kathy Sorry to hear of your loss. Are the models static (display only) or radio controlled models? Most charities are usually willing to accept donated models, and the RNLI may be a good starting point. If they are RC then you can advertise on this and other sites or even e-bay. Museums do sometimes accept particular models but they often have a vast collection already and many are in storage and not on public display. As a start you could take pictures of the models and post in the Forum under for sale and see if there is any interest. Don't post your e-mail address or telephone number to avoid getting spam. I usually just put a location like Cheshire UK to help identify your location.
I recently bought a on Ebay 'stranded' vintage harbourtug which will be fully rebuild. (I actually bought a NOS hull, and old - but good build - superstructure and all the deckgear & fittings. Except for some essential parts... There's no kortnozzle/rudder and propellor. I would like to know what size of nozzle and propdiameter I should mount. Originally it was designed with a steering nozzle/rudder, but the only item which comes close is the fixed nozzle as used on the Robbe Happy Hunter salvage tug model.(which has twin nozzles) That nozzle would be fixed with a seperate rudder for steering. What would you advise? What alternatives are available? (Making a proper nozzle myself which actually works and looks to scale is out of the question.) Attached three photos: one showing original (steering nozzle) and teh other with this Happy Hunter fixed nozzle, and te drawing showing the design.
Welcome aboard bwatman 👍 Downham Market! Knew it 50 years ago when I lived at RAF Marham when Victor tankers were based there. Dad ran the Electronics Bay. Bet it's changed a bit since then🤔 We used to scooter over to Downham for the odd 'rave up', and some were very odd😉 Used to like market days, lots a 'crumpet' about 😊 Cheers from Munich, Doug 😎
This is way more than just a maritime museum. The location in the heart the Chesapeak Bay Area, the home of the only sail ” fishing fleet in the U.S.A. No power drives at all with the exception of small ”pusher” units, kind of tiny, with room for a motor only! These are used to aid in getting to the fishery. The traditional boat is a Skipjack and the museum is a living boat yard. So even when there is no events there is always something to see. Model boat days are held around a large square tempary pool. One day is for scale and live steam, and another is free sail and model skipjack racing. We do not have control of the weather but I can not remember anything but sun on the days I have been there👍. The team at the museum are a great group of ladies and gentlemen who are passionate in their love of the sea and on model days you will find loads of helpful tips etc from all the “captains”. If you are visitors on holiday, Anapolis is no more than three quarters of an hour away, this is the home of the Rodgers collection of dockyard models and the worlds largest collection of French prisoner of war bone models (napolionic) in the world, it is a super nautical town! the Chesapeake museum is in St.Michaels, with lots of super shopping for the non model boating spouses. Further up the road on Tilghman island is a fantastic nautical book store who specializes in model ships and boats. However you need to visit the book store a day before the show day as everyone will be looking for that rare and special book!!!!! Hope this is a help.
[Score: 10/10] 32"/4500g Sprinkles Capable of 3mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Geared to a Electrofly (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper ESC - Comments: Sprinkles is a scratch built U.S. Coast Guard PWB, patrol waterways boat. Operating features include; searchlight and running lights, revolving blue emergency light, rotating radar, and a water monitor that fires 10-15 feet and can I studied various styles of water monitors and finally decided on one that is a composite of several types. Bending the tubing was difficult, nozzle was made on Unimat. Power is from Sig "gas passer" pump. I purchased the rotating beacon on ebay and power is from 5V voltage regulator.
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris
Circassia- Glasgow Circassia was built in Glasgow in 1937 for Anchor lines Liverpool to Bombay regular route, carrying 285 passengers and 4000 tons of cargo. She was taken by the Admiralty at the beginning of World War 2 and used as a troop ship to North Africa. She never saw action but troops dubbed her the “ship from hell” as accommodation was limited carrying far more than she was designed for. She returned to her 13000 mile round trip India run after the war, making her last voyage in January 1966, after which she was sold and broken up in Spain. This model was a 2 year project by a local retired yacht builder who is a real craftsman, built from original drawings to scale with great detail. Original drawings included with the sale. Includes 3 new rechargeable 6 volt batteries, charger, twin screw and bow thrusters, all servos and all works including navigation lights too. The transmitter is a Hitec Laser 4 with 3 spare channels if required (never used). The model dimensions are LOA 5ft 4inches, beam 9 inches and stands tall from keel to top mast at 21 inches. She weighs just over 60 lbs and sits on 2 teak plinths for display and has a rather crude but effective launching trolley and lifting straps. The plans say it is 1/8th scale. Contact details are Mike Billany, ** email and personal phone nos. removed Please use pm to share this info** I live in Hedon, approximately 7 miles east of Hull. Strongly suggest visit to view and buyer will need to collect. Asking price for all as above is £600 or very nearest sensible offer please.
Hi Mark, Deutsche Post is not the arbiter of carrier charges here! In my experience, either way between D and UK, DHL and DPD are the most reliable and quickest with International Tracked and Signed incl. insurance. Latest example was the PT Boat I bought from Basil's dad! All charges including insurance were 14.95 and it arrived in two days!! The value was well over 25 quid and the German customs didn't bat an eyelid. I've bought several items from Component shop and Micron Radio, each order over 25 quid, all came via DHL in a few days with never more than 10 quid P&P, and the German customs never interfered. Royal Mail and UPS are the most expensive, take much longer (ca 5 to 10 days) and are much more finicky about what they will transport. Worse; if they don't like something, e.g Lixx batteries or paints etc, they just destroy it and hard luck mate! 😡 Oh, and Fedex from the States seems to attract unwelcome and expensive attention from customs here 🤔 So if I see 'Origin USA' on FleaBay or Amazon I look elsewhere! (America First!!)? Moral: check which carrier the supplier uses or specify your preferred carrier where possible. Many suppliers offer a choice, found under 'Delivery Information' or similar on their website. Cheers Doug 😎
Dave M. China post subsidize ebay sellers, that's why they are so keen to have 5* feedback, if they have poor feedback they loose the free post, euro postage is by commercial companies and cost is down to the amount of items they send on a monthly basis, the more they send the cheaper it gets Mark
Hi Dave I've attached a photo of the prop as you asked. You can just see where I've shaved it down. This seems to have eased the overheating considerably. You can also see the water inlet for the cooling system that was used with the original diesel engine. This is now piped directly to the outlet on the port side (you can see it working in some of the action photos). The other photo is a fore/aft view of the central bay which contains the motor, ESC and battery. Ian
Hi Doug, now that your bits have arrived, plan your fit out, remember the battery needs to be in a place where it can be easily removed, don't charge in the hull, as for the mini Tamiya plugs, i bought converter plugs from ebay, female to male. RN makes a good point, if you standardise on 1 plug system it is so much easier, i am in the process of changing all my batteries to the XT60 system, Lipo and NiMh, mini Tamiya are good for 10 amps, Tamiya at about 15 amps, XT60, about 60 amps, other plug systems are available, Deans etc, often it is the connectors which cause the problems. Mark