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>> Home > Tags > ebay

steam water pump by GaryLCoupland Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
sent you a photo of a mechanical boiler feed pump connected to an oscillating V4 engine. get on eBay and type in Microcosm steam engines. If you use a decent size boiler for your steam engine you should get 20 to 30 minutes run-time. Let me know how you get on. Regards.

steam water pump by GaryLCoupland Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
I would suggest you go on to eBay, and then type in Microcosm Steam engines in the search window,this will take you to a Chinese Company who make numerous steam engines, at very reasonable prices plus lubricators and mechanical water pumps for various engines. Let me know how you get on. I willpost youa photo of an engine with a pump fitted, one of Microcosm's engines, they do boilers as well.

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
If the intention is to switch on with the magnet then remove it then you will need the reed switch already mentioned plus a latching relay. In use you would apply the magnet which will switch the relay which in turn will switch the ESC. A second application of the magnet will unlatch the relay. Possible choice of relay. Relay https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> He would need to consider carefully that he still has power to the safety backup which will blow ballast a certain time after loss of signal. Steve

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I do not know how much knowledge of electronics your friend has but I need to point out that a hall effect sensor is not like a relay. While they do act like a switch ( sort of) they need to be powered and have a hall effect voltage to switch. This would mean in the use intended there would be a current drain on the sensor and if the power supply ( battery?) voltage fell to far it would not function. The effect you want could be replaced by a reed relay cheap and simple to use. However reed relays can only pass low currents so would need to be cascaded with a higher rated relay before switching the main battery supply on and off. https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> these reed relays have both normally open and normally closed contacts and at a couple of quid for 10 worth buying so he can experiment.

Smoke generator by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
If it's smoke you want, I think this might just be the best available, a bit pricey, but have a shufty at the video, and you will see what I mean👍 https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> Peter😉

happy hunter by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Reference moulding the lead. Lay some polythene where the lead will be then form the lead shape on the poly using plasticine. Then use mould making silicone (ebay) to form a mould. Use something like a baked bean tin and a blow torch to heat the lead and pore it into the mould. Normal health and safety rules apply. Steve

Ship rudders by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Toby, Yep! Cos this website stretches them to fit the Media window that opens when we click on the pic icon. When I realised that I stopped using the mobile (Samsung J5) camera. Imagine the size of the Media window on a 24" full res display 😲 and a 4Mpix pic stretched to fit! Where on ebay do you get these bits? It's a good idea to post the link when you mention sources - otherwise we have to hunt! Whatever; watching the build with interest, particularly the rudder as I have a similar rudder to make for my ancient fish cutter restoration / conversion. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: If you right click on the photo, when the pic has opened, and then on Show graphic a + sign may appear in the cursor, which means you can expand the pic. Yours look much better when I do this. 👍 BTW2; I like the 'saluting red tadpole' in the middle 😁😁

Ship rudders by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
For anyone who wants flat rivet effect for steel decks etc then those highlighted in the photo are effective. All these can be found for sale on eBay.

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
1 - I concur with figtree7nts. You don't want a long length of unsupported floppy tube transmitting power. You will see that my illustrations show the unsupported tube to be very short. 2 - You also want thick tube to transmit power. if you have thin 2-3mm tube that will easily kink. I make my own connectors at the ends of each shaft to bring the internal tube diameter up to about 6-8mm. 3 - If you want to try a quick fix for what you have, I would suggest putting a small piece of wood or plastic inside the unsupported section of your tube, which will stop it collapsing when it is twisted. This may work if the torque is not high. And it's a quick, cheap thing to try. 4 - if you want to try making your own, you could get something like this - check the correct shaft size - https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> or this: https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> and then buy a length of something like this - https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> checking the diameters that you need, of course... Here is a similar Eezebilt to your craft. It's the OSA Missile boat. You can see that the unsupported length of silicone is short, and this boat at 32 inches takes quite a lot of power...

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good) by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
I am not sure that you mean 'latex'. The most usual soft tubes are silicone rubber. Not neoprene, as it is usually too stiff. There are all sorts of universal joints available. Here are some metal ones from Ebay: https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'> These are surely too strong for small boats, however. The Eezebilt range are typically 30-50cm long and I use silicone rubber joints on brushless motors there quite satisfactorily. You just need to be sure that the tube wall thickness is sufficient - typically 3-4mm. Here is a picture of the Eezebilt PT Boat (50 cm long) motor connector, with a picture of it running. You will see that it can go at a reasonable speed. See

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Steve, many real IMM rod antennas I worked with were not tapered. So any metal / plastic rod of suitable diameter painted white would do. The relatively short (1m) whips are not always tapered either. If you go piano wire & heatshrink you could put a nice sweep-back into it by lightly bending it back while shrinking. When cool it will hold the shape. Here's a link to the supplier we most often used for the professional 'stick' (we called 'em rod) VHF IMM antenna, with a drawing. Memory playing tricks on me🤔it's actually about 141cm top to bottom. Cheers, Doug 😎 Here's a simple 35" stainless steel whip, also not tapered https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.

fuse holder by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi TJ, I use spade connectors, sized to fit car type spade fuses, they are available in different colored and sized for different cable thickness. This is ok for inline fuses. look on ebay for fuse blocks for car accessories, they come in different sizes depending how many fuses you need Mark

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
If the ESC has a BEC in it, do I have to forget the Rx pack of Nimhs? The ebay listing of something very similar says it has a BEC. Would it be better to just use the Nimhs, in which case how do I treat the ESC Rx wiring? just ignore it? Martin

Metal sanding plates by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
https://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>