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>> Home > Tags > ebay

ebay
ebay
My first boat!! by NickW Apprentice   Posted: 4 hours ago
Had a great day yesterday, found a nice boating club and finally picked up my first boat that I won on eBay.....42" fishing boat, full electrics, works perfectly.....can't wait for Saturday, hope it's nice weather.....been waiting years for this moment :-)

2 motors 1 esc by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
There are hundreds if not thousands of 0.1 uF capacitors across the terminals on Ebay what would be the better to buy.

2 motors 1 esc by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Dave thanks for the reply Now. Placed the order for the motors Just now looking for dual esc and thought eBay might be a good place start for price ranges Any suggestions welcome

Thin Flat Timber by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.

raf crash tender 3ft by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello Paul well the bent shaft is another purchase i managed to find a complete shaft on eBay which is the same dimensions as the boat so hoping when it arrives it will fit but overall length is 230mm and outside diameter of tube is 8mm 😆 George

Small plastic joinery glue by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
There is plenty on eBay.

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Yes it's in a a small double sided by side tube with a long mixer nozzle u should have a gun to push it out but we just use 2 round dowels u should be able to get it on eBay to

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Dave, The 1/12 Bluebird is brushless (all running gear from PMB), as it's made from balsa, I've waterproofed everything with sanding sealer inside & out. To be honest I was planning on taking it to quiet stretches of the Leeds/Liverpool canal as I didn't think any scale model boat clubs would want anything to do with my boat, but I will have a look at what clubs there are locally. The 1/4.2 will be IC powered, I want it to reach a scale speed of 300mph so if I can hit 75mph in the real world with it I'll be very happy. I hope if I can keep it light enough a couple of Tiger King S27 Evo's will get me there. I've emailed PMB as they don't have any stock at the moment, to see when they are due some in, but I've not received a reply yet. Plan is to buy 1 engine initially so I can plan the layout & while I'm carrying on with the build I was going to drop it into this eBay hull to see how it performs. I have a couple of Enya 40ss motors, I'm going to try one in the Short Stuff & see how it goes. I can't cope sitting at home watching the telly, I like to keep busy😎 Cheers Wayne

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi all, my first post so please be gentle with me. I'm Wayne from Colne in Lancashire, I'm very new to the hobby. I started building a brushless prop driven 1/12 scale Bluebird K7 late on last year, I'd got the plans from Canada & they were at best very poor. At first it was 1 step forwards & 2 steps back but I've progressed to the point where it's "alive", just the canopy to vacuum form & fit & it will be ready to paint. During the backwards steps I've also built a 1/24 scale K7 for my grandson, just the sponsons to fit then it will be ready for paint also. I've managed to lay my hands on the Nexus K7 plans at 8.4/1, I figured go big or go home so I had them doubled in size so they are now at 4.2/1, I just can't afford to put a turbine in is so I'm planning to put a couple of 27cc tiger king engines in it. It's going to be an expensive build so I'm collecting "stuff" for the build. I've managed to get hold of an old Dumas short stuff fibreglass kit that I'm going to build for my grandson & ive just got a bigger hull off eBay for £30. Can anyone identify this hull? Sorry for the long post!!! Cheers Wayne

brushless motor for a aerokits sea commander by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Adijohn Welcome to the site. You can search the site for Sea Commander and will find how others have progressed with their builds. Regarding brushless I would expect a 35mm outrunner to be a suitable size with a prop of the same diameter and direct drive. The entry level power supply would be a NiMh battery of about 5000mAhr at 9.6 to 12v. If you really want the speed and endurance then LiPo is the best but does cost more and needs correct handling both when sailing and especially when charging. Brushless motors have kv ratings which indicate the free load speed per volt, so for an 800Kv motor at 10v = 8000revs (it will be less under load). They also have a wattage limit which is the product of the voltage times the amps, so for 10v at 20 amps this is 200 watts. If you exceed this the motor will overheat and fail. The ESC also has a max amp rating and best practice suggests this is twice the expected running current. You can buy a wattmeter to measure current and watts. There are many suppliers but have a look at http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Co mponent-Shop?_trksid=p2047675. l2563. Hope this helps and if you like my response please tick the like box to help others find the post. Good luck and please post details of your build. Dave

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
http://www.ebay.co.uk/it m/60-40-Tin-Lead-Solder-Wire-H Q-Flux-Multi-Rosin-Cored-Solde r-DIY-Hobby-22-SWG-/1420693330 49 Tin/lead solder is still out there and I agree with Dave not being a fan of lead free solders

Perkasa 49 inch by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Neodym magnets are excellent for holding hatches, decks etc in place. I have just sourced a selection from ebay and bought two 10x10mm. www.web-magnets.co.uk.I had not considered using as a rescue aid but these magnets are exceptionally strong and once attached are very difficult to remove so certainly up to rescuing a model. We sail many yachts and it can be difficult to find a safe attachment without causing damage. I do hope you keep us posted on the automation of you features. On water shots are always good especially if they capture other models on the water. Dave

Model boat Magazine dec 2007 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Keith, there are 2 on ebay, marcs mags, also if its just one article, contact model boat mag forum, they have the arcives for the mag Mark

Perkasa 49 inch by lesfac Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Don't know how deep it is in the middle. I think there have been a couple of drownings over the years. I take a reel of fishing line with me. My plan would be to enlist some help and take the other end of the line to the other side of the lake. Lay the line over the boat. Tie a duster to the end of the line and gently pull the line over the boat. I am thinking the wet duster would grab the boat well enough to pull it in. I haven't had to try it so I just hope it works if I need to use it. I also thought about getting a 5 meter fishing pole off Ebay but didn't get around to it. But as I said most of the time the prevailing wind is towards the more accessible bits

The Hull Markings by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .