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>> Home > Tags > electric

electric
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electronize
electric
HMS Erebus by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 hours ago
I am not an electric sort of bloke. What surprises me with the problem is that everything worked well for a long time. She has basically the same set up as my other ships, basically simple. Battery, speed control, two motors turning two shafts, with shafts lubricated. The battery fully charged, the radio and receiver set up okay, motors run with no problem when fed current directly, and no problems with prop shafts. Maybe my best bet is to simply obtain another control same as original. I get the impression the Duratrax is meant for cars?

HMS Erebus by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Erebus is of course long finished and sailing. However, a strange electrical fault has occurred. She will be sailing beautifully, and then just stop. Wait a minute or two, and she goes again, only to do the same again! The problem cannot be with the radio or receiver, as steering works when engines dead. Anyone have any ideas?

Battery problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
My knowledge of "elecy" stuff is pretty limited, but I see that the model boat world (excluding racing types) is in the dark ages compared to planes, helis, cars etc when it comes to motors, batteries etc We have to reply a lot on testing, fiddling etc when it comes to gettingn a fast electric set up, in a scale heavy old wood boat😁 as there isnt much info out there. I tried testing over a long time, with one boat inparticular, and was lucky enough to have te use of eagle tree data logging, so could measure watts, amps, gps speed, voltage drop and so on, and analyse the resultsd on graphs etc back home on the pc. Its amazing to see that sometime s the fastest set up isnt always the best when you compare run time, amp draw, heat, voltage draw etc, and what "looks fast" sometimes isnt as fast as you thought😊 This boat for example, 6kg, ply construction will do 25mph, after that torque roll is kicking in, and it want to roll over. I tested props over a long time, using cheap plastic "X" props, and with the results was then able to get a more efficient and visually pleasing brass cleaver 3 blade one. Ranging from 50mm to 55mm the amp draw went from 45a to 90a using same batteries!, and teh highest amp draw prop didnt produce the fastest speed, all interesting stuff. The boat is similar to the OP perkassa. I also went from direct drive, to a geared drive, and can change the characteristics of the boat using different cheap gears, eg., small lake, dont need top speed, so change to acceleration, big lake, lets give up acceleration and have top speed, and so on👍

Li-Poly batteries by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Rolfman sounds like you are using / charging single cells. Then mounting some as a 'pack' and then balancing. Correct? If so a good scheme to prevent excitement 😡 during hi amp discharge in a fast electric. I used to number & use my NiMH cells in sets in a similar manner. Most of them lasted several years Cheers Doug 😎

Li-Poly batteries by rolfman2000 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
My use of lipos involves drones (racing and camera), fpv fixed wing long range aircraft, and boats (mostly reasonably fast electrics). And my charging regime is to number all my similar cells, so all can be rotated, evenly used and charged. I normal charge twice, then balance charge the third. This has kept all my cells with even capacitance and in good condition. I say that, so far (touch wood) that I haven't managed to puff or blow any packs.

Soldering suppressors to motor by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Dave, sensible answer 👍 A Footnote ? Sparks are essentially broadband but most of the energy is in the HF & VHF bands and tails off significantly above the UHF band >500MHz. However, since the energy is proportional to the arc current(spark) and this rises with the applied voltage causing it your comments re fast electrics using higher voltages is entirely relevant. Also any close neighbours still using 27, 35 or 40 Megs will not be too chuffed, especially the fliers 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

EGREMONT by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 38"/1400g EGREMONT Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) - Comments: Just Completed another Egremont Mersey Ferry in different colours this time. Not yet decided on power, electrics, etc just for show at the moment. Will probably sell it and let the new owner put in his own electrics.

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...

Capricorn by tomarack Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 43"/7000g Capricorn Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK ESC - Comments: Capricorn is model of Thames sailing barge with auxiliary electric motor.

Li-Poly batteries by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
My main interest is scale boats, but I have a few fast electric, just for the adrenalin boost. The Blackjack and the Rocket reach the upper 40mph range with no problems in smooth water. The boat in question is a bit bigger and will handle rougher water. At the moment I am running it on two three cell 4000 mah 25-50c batteries, these are well used and get warm and swell. For the money I am prepared to spend for my adrenalin rush, I have the choice from Hobbyking of two 4400 mah 65-130c or two 4500 mah 35-70c batteries. I have never really quite understood the C value of these batteries. Any advice would be most welcome. Alan

Jaydee by captaindodo Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 34" Jaydee Single Propellor Direct Drive to a MFA Torpedo 500 Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Built 1961. Raced in early '60s. Originally IC powered, now converted to electric.

Guestbook Post by captaindodo Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi, I have kept safely and replaced the old IC set up in my 1960's Aerokit Sea Commander with a modern electric system. Unfortunately, I’m not sure that I was given the right advice and although the boat runs ok, it is slow, only reaching what I would call a scale “river-cruising” speed. I would like it to be capable of a bit more (without reaching “racing” speed) and wondered if anybody can advise me on a more suitable engine/battery/controller configuration? I am currently using an MFA Torpedo 500 motor powered by a VP 3700 7.2v 3700mAh battery pack through a Fusion Aquapower 128 (128A max continuous current) controller. Any pointers will be gratefully welcomed.

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
I now have enough plastic to complete the Shamrock Police boat. thread here https://model-boats.com/forum/ building-related/27236 And Also now have some larger pieces seems these bits are scrap as well due to the fact they fell on the floor and nobody bothered to pick them up and just walked all over them. so they have little dents in them. That is no problem for me to fill as and when I need to. So having just made a small rhib for the Shamrock about 16 inches long I thought it would be nice to make a fully working one. So I started this one is 35 inches long without the sponsons. I have All the electrics for it already ( Hand me downs ) so no nothing to loose. So this could be the model that costs nothing to make and build. No Plans or drawings or templates and now under way. All constructed out of 2mm foam board plastic.. Held together with electrical insulating tape while the glue dried. I will have a bit of filling and sanding to do when it is a single solid piece. Now comes the part of working out some sort of rough scale for the completed hull. In the meanwhile forming the chines out of the same plastic but very thin strips. Not found any bright Orange paint yet but still looking . If all fails it will be a white rhib. I am thinking with the foam collar the weight of the electrics placed as low as I can get them I may need very little ballast As so far it is very light. Still as always another lets see how it turns out..

Looking for a particular person by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Alas, he talks a lot about old motors, but doesn't use them as such. I want to use mine, at least to try them out before I give up and go all buggy motor. (I call all cylindrical Jap motors "Buggy motors"). It's easier than remembering all the fancy numbers. Buggy or drill motors. I have an electric screwdriver whose batteries are pretty much dead, so there's another motor to go with the minidrill motors I already have! The way I see it is I used to use these old British motors years ago and they always worked, so why not now? I have them and I don't want them sitting on a shelf and I don't want to buy new Jap stuff or ESCs. Failing that, the boats will go on the shelf as show queens and I'll go all wind powered. I have a Veron Veronica, a one-off Dorade GRP hull of considerable age and a vintage Marblehead once owned by Sir Thomas Lipton. Oh and a partly built hull of a Victorian "Plank-on-edge" gaff cutter on which I used to live. Sounds like I need to sort my stuff out! Thanks for all the help. If anyone needs any help with things like mahogany speedboats, deck fittings, etc. please pick my brains. Cheers, Martin

Jet Sprint Boat by Rod Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
No problem I need 4.5 hp and I can get that with a water cooled electric motor I am using the same jet motor that the NZ manufacturers of the real sprint jet use on their r c models they make I had a long chat with them and they are happy with the single jet Thanks for your interest in any case it is appreciated and we will all see how it turns out and hopefully performs Cheers Rod