Hi Johnfast, This is Doug, alias RNinMunich! 😉 Sorry I'm a Sassenach, originally from Folkestone in Kent, about as far away from Scotland as you can get! 🤔 Shame actually as I have a passion for single malts, esp. Oban, Lagavulin and Jura 😜 By the time I studied engineering (in London, electronics sandwich course with 6 months in industry between semesters) electricity was available pretty well everywhere 😉😉 For us a bolt was something that needed a nut and a couple of washers 😁 BTW; how are the dilithium crystals!?? 😁 Cheers Doug 😎 Now in Munich, Bavaria. 😉
Hot stuff eh? 😉😁 For the really small stuff I have a micro-electric, 1mm bit, thermostat control etc etc. Saves on blown up components🤔 For 'heavy engineering' a 50W broad bit (1/4") or a gas torch for brazing and hard silver soldering. Must dig 'em out and clean 'em up again 😉
Starting to feel a bit old after reading that folks grandpas used to have one just like it and I am still using them today, also have the 25w electric but prefer the old, old style ,your right Doug not exactly the right tool for that small delicate hold it in your fingers work strangely enough electrical work just seems to melt it must be my technique
Hi Marky, Yep I remember Grandad using these. No so good today for SMD work!! As early as I can remember my Dad had a 25W electric iron, strangely with a war dept. arrow mark on it 😉 I still have it and it is still going strong. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug, i'm sorry if you feel i'm not genuine....after the last few years of my health deteriorating i've moved from 1/35 plastic kits thru the scales until even the larger scales I couldn't deal with. RC boats i thought would be good because of no real construction so don't have to worry about my hands working correctly (i've purchased my boats rather than made them) I have little understanding about electronics, my career in the forces was stores not electrics....I have tried to answer your questions of me that would eventually help me with honesty and openness....i'll try not to upset you with my insignificant problems from this point onwards.
Hi Marky Our Blacksmith has a portable furnace like this when he come to shoe the horses. Dad used to have a big (12oz) copper soldering iron just like this. He used a gas ring to heat it. Used to solder and repair car radiators. He also had a Wolf electric iron with a similar sized head. Great big 14"sq solder rods and Bakers Flux. Health and Safety would probably have a fit if they saw you using it today. Good to see that there are still others who have used and still have this skill. Dave
hi guys, i have just finnished my hull with all the electrics and its all watertight etc but no rubbing strake was included in my box?! was this the same with yours? if so where did you buy yours? Thanks Tintin ps i have put a video on youtube etc but will post all the links on a build log im starting soon!
Hi Larry As Doug says we need to know what you hope to achieve with your restoration? Also can you advise what modelling skills you have so we can pitch advice at the right level. Intially I suggest you use some soap and water to wash the outside of the model and perhaps layout and photo all the loose electrical bits so we can see what you have. I suspect this is perhaps a Robbe kit as some of the electrics seem to be of that genre. It would be great if any member can identify the model Dave
Hi Larry Welcome to the site. This looks like quite a project and I am sure you will receive lots of help. To get the best responses may I suggest you post this again in the Forum section under either Electrical Related or Building Related as this will be found by more members who can then offer advice. Hope you are enjoying the site Dave
sorry soldering bolts may be a bit old school ,i was originally a tin smith to trade and to solder the tin and/or copper we used to use big soldering irons (bolts)that were heated in a small gas oven rather than being the more modern electric type ,i have some somewhere i will dig them out and take a picture ,
For all its iterations the end result has remained true to the original and the model sails very realistically. It would be good to see another post to the blog showing the electrics and another the sails. Dave
Mighty meaty! 👍 Good luck with the 'Messcave' 😉 I have the same problem 🤔 Pics show (amongst accumulated junk from various repair jobs!) - electrics bench and boxes of 'stuff' acquired over the last few years of my working life still waiting to be sorted out 😉 - various ships waiting to be refurbished or fitted out; HMS Hotspur 1:72 H class destroyer 1936, HMS Belfast 1:128 6" light cruiser U25 (or 26?) 1:72 Type IIA U-boat 1936 Billings Gina Danish fish cutter Graupner Southampton Various Plastic Magic projects (stash!) - the bigger ones; HMS Hood, Ark Royal, Illustrious, Type 45, USS Enterprise (The Big E), Bismarck all 1:350; USS Fletcher destroyer 1:144, are down in the cellar, the bench down there is just as bad 😡! and finally - my poor old Sea Scout being sanded on the kitchen worktop for lack of space on the bench! 😭 "Stuff accumulates to fill the space available for it" 😉 cheers Doug 😎 Oh! Nearly forgot 😲! and there's a 1:128 Graf Spee pocket battleship on a shelf in the living room, waiting for propshaft repairs.
Hi Skipper I have just found exactly the same problem with a LED on my Trent which I am doing some rework on. It's not a constant flicker more a random dimming followed by a couple of flickers. The electrical connection is OK and the problem was with the LED. It's in a tight space and I had damaged the leads into the LED resulting in the fault. I agree with Sonar and believe your best solution is to replace the faulty LED with another if you are sure the electrical connection is OK. Dave
Many Thanks Doug.. and ok about your saw, my hollowing out of bulkheads mainly concerns a ring saw as a typical electricial would have/use and the inverted jigsaw in the work-mate, the ring saw sets the internal radius, usually about 1" blade. Or a 3/8" drill into the bulkhead preferably close to the inner edge, and then using the jig saw, inverted.. I tend to use the metal work blades for the jigsaw, as they are a much thinner profile enabling tight radi to be tackled..Sea scout, now there a nice size boat , a blast from the past..Tnx for the info..Regards Muddy....