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>> Home > Tags > electric

electric
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electric
Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
sorry but most flying crash test models use outrunners. The lack of torque of an inrunner means you have to use a very small diameter prop ( I am generalising ) so unless your going for an all out speed model use an outrunner. http://lmmac.net/i-c-to- style='background-color:yellow;'>electric-conversion-table/ As you can see an outrunner is shown as the representative motor. https://www.cmfhobbies.com/IC-Engine-to-Electric-motor-conve... Again generally out runners.

BRUSHLESS ESC by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi RHBaker If the ESC exceeds the motor draw that's all is required. I only use two sizes in my boats, a 45A for small boats and 100A for the larger boats. The both use the same program card !!! These are the Hobbyking car ESCs because they have an on/off switch, small and have an electrical fan on top. Very good for low speed running and no water plumbing required. Canabus

barbwire 2 by brokey2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 18" barbwire 2 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: fast electric, deep vee, RTR, fun little boat

Huntsman 31 by Will-I-Am Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 34"/2500g Huntsman 31 Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a 3548 1100kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hobbyking car esc (50Amps) ESC - Comments: The boat is an original Modav kit built in the early 1980s fitted with anEnya 35bb111 and recently renovated and fitted with a brushless motor new prop shaft and electrics. Model is still to be completed windscreen and fittings still to complete.

getting there by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
well, bathroom trial's have taken place, a few adjustments, i.e positioning of the battery for balance, otherwise no bad at all, sit's ok may need a little balancing with weights but the open pond will allow travel and view from all angle's, electrics are in and basic, old transmitter and receiver, a cheep ebay esc, new motors, shafts, prop's and rudders, all working together well, the rest is as mentioned "stuff" that I found in the loft, shed and junk room.

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by boaty Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local model shop whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. It was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit. With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now. Boaty😁

What do you do when... by boaty Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
I have had this problem several times myself especially with fast electrics when they "flip" over. At present I take my old Aerokits Sea Commander with me to use as a rescue boat but there is always some element of difficulty when trying to line it up with the upturned craft. How you deal with it depends on the size of your boating lake. On small ones it is possible to have a vertical pole mounted on the bank with a long length of string attached to it. You then roll out the string and walk round until the string makes contact with your boat then slowly walk back bringing the boat to the side. Building a rescue craft like you describe is perfectly normal as I have seen them from time to time and also you see them on You Tube when retrieving usually (you guess it), a fast electric in distress. Good luck with your project and you can also disguise your "rescue boat" to look like a pusher tug etc.😁

push tug.. by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Having put together a couple of "kit's" over the years, normally with fiberglass hull, I decided after having a electrical failure while on the local pond that I could do with something to retrieve a stricken boat, but with what and how, well after posing the question of what others do I decided to have a look about and found some idea's for a push tug, it seemed like the ideal thing and was something like I was looking for, I didn't purchase a kit, instead decided to build it myself... After making the hull according to the plan's, I looked at it and thought... na, that won't work. the plan's gave the hull a half moon shape, I found that it didn't balance well and needed a fair bit of weight due to the displacement, so I cut the bottom of and now is a flat bottom vassal, this sat better and stable in water.. I intend to run it on a 12v sla battery and two Mtroniks 600 motors... the deck and cabin has copied the general shape but a few changes to add features and suit the design that pop's into my head as I go... its coming along well I think... all materials are mostly odd's and end's, bit's I find and mixed wood except the deck's which I intend to varnish with white sides..

Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
to late now but for the future if you need stuff like bridge recs or anything else electronic have a look on EBAY way cheaper than RS https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675... As to extra channels on my African Queen in addition to forwards and back plus left and right I have steam whistle engine sound and speed ( its all electric with a fake steam engine and boiler) and steam engine start stop.

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Ah, OK. I am so anti military, I can't even think of all that stuff, although I am very anti-working features on models. I find them a bit nafferoony on the whole. Go, stop, left, right, that's me. I ain't even bothered about backuds. Goes with my free sailing/IC/early electric background I suppose. Lights only needed at night and I wouldn't be sailing in the dark. Smoke looks like some old geezer having a fag under the deck.....I know you'll argue. Anyway, for my sort of model, a third channel is a waste. And as it's a switch, I couldn't even use it as a jib hallyard. I'll try ringing the service bloke if I can find him. We'll see what he wants to charge, but with postage it'll be silly probably. If you'd like me to do you a shaft, let me know. I have loads of 3mm silver steel for my old American slot car restorations. Gimme a length between extremes and I'll do you one. Cheers, Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I'll have to get in touch with RS then. Thanks. I'd much rather buy electrics than make! All these aftermarket Rxs claim they are compatible with other companys' Txs and hundreds of thousands appear to be just that. I'm still pretty sure that DX5e is duff. I read on an American forum they're calling them Wreckums, so I ain't the only one. And I ain't paying their prices for an Rx either when the Orange and the Storm are, effectively clones thereof. I was surprised to find the things wouldn't bind to the FlySky, but then the manual for that is crap and doesn't cover binding to any other Rx, even though it's headed "other Txs. and Rxs. So, the Rx thing has cost me 15 quid in all. The 50 quid I paid for the TX is what pisses me off big time. I take it there's no reason why the Flysky shouldn't bind to the Storm and Orange is there? If I did send you the DX5e would you have a look at it for me? I'd rather pay you than someone over here I never heard of.. Cheers, Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

Bow wave suppression by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Floating Voter, I do so agree that I should be flying, not ploughing. In fact, she does plane quite well, but she is 'dirty' at very high speeds.I am concerned that sooner or later, I will have electrical problems, despite trying to be careful not to overuse the throttle. She is fitted with 2 x JP EnErG brushless 600 O/R 1550 (C35 141), driving 38mm scale-type brass three bladers, contra-rotating. The pack is a 7.4 v, 30C lipo.

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 20 days ago
hmm you have a good point Martin but one small problem, the old motor turns well by hand but I have not been able to get it to go electrically. It's probable that the brushes aren't making contact with the commutator.

I just had to get it! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Good buy Ed, very similar to mine👍 Maybe a bit heavy for handrails an such, I use a 50 or 25W electric iron with a 1/4" or 1/8" bit respectively. The torch I use for heavier things like brass oilers to brass shaft tubes. Practice makes perfect! Try it on some scrap bits. Have fun, Doug 😎 PS you may find the Missus nicking it to caramelise brown sugar!😊