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>> Home > Tags > electric

action electronics
Denatured Alcohol by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
never tried one but these are touted as a replacement for a jetex 50 style='background-color:yellow;'>electric-flight-ducted-fan-2

correct size of wiring by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Neil Start a new topic in this electrical related section of the forum

3 blades v 2 blades on air boat by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
get a watt meter they are cheap and you can read the current drawn at full revs ( although its not moving) this will give you an idea as to the run time of your battery and the capability of your ESC to handle the load. I think every one who uses electric motors and especially lipo batteries should have one!

correct size of wiring by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Neil, I noticed that you've had a look at the extensive Electrical Blogs about wire thicknesses from a month or so back, so maybe you found the answer, if not- Use flexible multi-strand wire with a cross section area of about 0.75 mm². Don't get the +s and -s of the exciters mixed up or they will work 180° out of phase and dampen the volume. BTW: the exciters are not transponders! Transponders are devices which respond to a particular input signal by sending a signal back. Such as the transponders in aircraft; they respond to secondary radar signals by sending back their ID and location, height etc. Or ship's SAR beacons which respond to a 9GHz search radar by sending back ID and location coordinates. The exciters are actually transducers which take an input signal in one form and convert into an output signal of a different form; e.g. here electrical to mechanical! Here endeth the lecture for today! 😉 Happy modding, Doug 😎

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Ok here we go... forward light example: I took 1 wire from each led and wrapped a small piece of copper wire round them then soldered into one. Then did the same for the others. Then connected to a 9v battery connector using plastic connection block... My son had been doing electrical circuits at school and wanted to help me...

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I've mislead you , the speed controller I bought was a 50A controller - Marine New lipo safe version. It said motor current, so I guessed 10 amps. Being an electrical engineer I added a good factor of safety it works well. No expensive smoke.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Neil, so far so good👍 My version is the Southampton, same hull and deck, including well hidden screws😡 but the older 40Mhz version without any special effects. So my answer to the 'Why change its' and 'It won't fits' is - If HobbyKing can do it why can't I? - and better! For a decent and inexpensive 6ch T/RX set I can from personal experience recommend the Turnigy HT-6 or TGY i6 or similar from HobbyKing for around 45-50 dollars 42 pounds from UK or EU warehouse. Very versatile and easy to program, i.e. kill all the aircraft and heli widgets🤔 This set (and similar) was discussed in depth elsewhere here on the site. Look under 'Tank steering' ! Happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Chris I know of no easy way for you to determine the voltage. However motors do have a coil resistance value measured across the terminals. Also if you can see the coil windings a thick wire usually indicates a motor designed for high speed and current. A thinner wire may produce a motor with lower speed and less current and more tork. If you check the Graupner and look at the windings this may help you identify the other two. In my experience it's usually too low a voltage that's the problem resulting in slow revs and little if any tork. At the other end of the scale too high a voltage will result in very high revs and lots of sparks from the brushes. In this case if you continue to apply the volts you will damage the motor. Many electric drills were powered by motors rated at 9v and did indeed have an impeller cooling fan. That said Mabuchi and Johnson produced a vast range of motors all looking similar on the outside but wired very differently inside depending on the ultimate use. I suggest you try with progressively higher voltages and assess which is best for the two unknowns. Finally most motors are designed to work over a range of voltages so I usually measure both the upper and lower values so I can select the right motor for a particular model.

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by octman Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
I have several motors that all look very nearly the same. One I know is a Graupner Speed 600 which is 8.4v but of the other 2, one is said to be 12v(was working with an 11.1 lipo) and the other one is unknown. It has a built in cooling impeller so probably came from an electric tool of some sort. Neither of these 2 have any markings or labels. Is there any way that I can test them for their normal working voltages without endangering them? Chris

3d printing by marky Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Wayne, you are such a tease did I see some wheel arches ?also when printing the landing craft did your electric meter have a nervous break down 😜😜👍

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Dave, on the contrary. I am looking at the smallest solution as I want to fit such functions to my Southampton. Is the 'Richardson' smaller than Southampton? I have a batch of the transducers recommended by Paul. One each side of the hull midships shouldn't be a problem. Cheers Doug PS to Chris; fitting speakers under the deck is not optimum as the sound volume is directed upwards, so no one on shore can hear it! Learned this the hard way with my destroyer🤔 I propose to fit the transducers (actually Exciters; strictly speaking speakers are transducers cos they convert - transduce - electrical signals into mechanical movement via exciter and cone) midships on both sides of the hull midway between waterline and gunwale. The idea being to bring the hull to resonant movement with the sound so it works like the speaker cone! Thus the exciter should be mounted as far as possible in the geometric centre of the hull surface available. Cheers Doug 😎

What motor for my Sanson tug by CplScotty Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
I need to get an electric motor and digital speed controller which gives it a realistic movement of an old steam Sanson tugboat, any ideas or tips would be appreciated. I will start a build blog soon.

What paint type by CplScotty Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
I need to get an electric motor and digital speed controller which gives it a realistic movement of an old steam tug, any ideas or tips would be appreciated. I will start a build blog soon

46" Crash Tender from a generous man. by smear56 Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
The Crash tender IC engine could be modified, to have a electric motor attached and driving through it to preserve the look of the innards.Steve.