Hi all, a 1/16th scale model of the boat I used to live on at Burnham-on-Crouch. 1/8th" Cuban (yes really!) mahogany from 1920s chairs made by my cabinet maker Grandfather. Covered in J cloth and epoxy. J-cloth is very compliant, but yet very strong when soaked in epoxy (WEST System). Lightweight fillered for the bits where the saw wasn't as accurate ripping the strips as it might have been. Black enamel primer.
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
Ah, cellulose, of blessed memory. I still have some, come to think of it, but forgetfully, I bought black gloss enamel for Vanity and some enamel primer for it also in black First coat on today. But I will definitely experiment with spraying the final coats. I sprayed an old pre-War Marblehead with enamel and it went on well. You can still get cellulose if you can convince the dealer it's for your classic car. My son has a 1951 Renown so I could always quote all IT'S details to get it, but I don't think they'll post it and I'm nowhere near any suppliers geographically. I couldn't see the point in paying for epoxy tissue so I bought a huge bag of J cloths from Poundland and used that with epoxy. Slarred the epoxy on the mahogany hull (made from old chair legs my Grandad had made a dining suite with) and then laid the J-cloth on the tacky epoxy and slarred more on with an old credit card. All my credit cards are old now and a damned site more useful as epoxy squeegees than they ever were before. Got a few ridges where they overlapped, but filler sorted that out. The hull is still very light, so will need all the large lead weights on the end of a long fin keel (removable) as it carries a big rig, (see avatar). Good luck, Martin
A synthetic Lawyer, Colin. Ain't they all, mate, ain't they all? I always use enamel as I hate anything water based except my tea. I have a middling sized compressor and tank and use a spotting gun. I could use a bigger spray gun, but I'm too tight with paint wastage. It's silly expensive stuff. Having said all that i just primed my sailing model of Vanity with a brush. Went on a treat, but the final gloss coat of good old British yacht Black will be sprayed. Martin
Hi all, come summer, come the boats. Winter is for slot cars. I have been filling and sanding my Vanity model. Today it got its first coat of black enamel primer and apart from a few tiny blemishes will be fine, so I started thinking about sails. My wife can't get her machine to behave itself, so, bless her, said to buy a suit, but I can't find any guide to prices except a brief mention on Nylet's site about a medium Gaff set and that is 195 quid, which is not possible. So, where do folks go for affordable sails for gaffers and other unconventional non "class" yachts, like Vanity? It's a big old rig. Cheers, Martin
Hi Peter, The Bissy was only in the Baltic for running up and training. In Unternehmung Rheinübung, foray into the Atlantic and the Battle in the Iceland Straight (sorry Denmark Straight), she would have had the normal light grey plus possibly camo colours, here, yer pays yer money and ya takes yer choice! 'As built' she would have been all DKM Hellgrau / Silbergrau (Light / Silver grey) #50 (that's the Lifecolor #UA 601) on the slipway. All the docus, vids and photos I have found don't seem to show any significant camo paint!? Only pic I ever found of Bizzy in camouflage paint is of the Graupner Premium model. Can't find any official record of it. There is some evidence of cammo paint on her sister ship Tirpitz, but it didn't help her, she spent most of her life bottled up in a Norwegian Fjord where she got flattened by Lancs! Cheers Doug 😎 Re Enamel: Maybe attached charts will help you find an acrylic equivalent😉 I will use the Lifecolor 601for mine. PS Bismarck had No later life!! One operation, one ship sunk (Hood 😭😭) and that was that! Can heartily recommend the old 1960 Kenneth More film 'Sink The Bismarck' 👍 Stirring stuff Old Chap, stiff upper lip stuff from the days when we still had a real Navy and hadn't swapped our overseas bases for 50 ancient rust bucket WWI destroyers🤔 By the by: during my 32 years working here (in Naval COMMS systems) I was frequently in the Blohm & Voss HQ in Hamburg, saw several superb yard models of their ships including Bismarck, and many photos, but never a one with camouflage. PPS: as far as i can establish the 'Baltic light grey' was only used on the top sides of smaller U-Boats operating in the relatively shallow Baltic waters. Maybe also a few small combatants such as Schnellboote, Minenjäger etc.
Many thanks Doug for the paint info, I notice there are 2 hellgrau on their lists, one light grey and one Baltic light grey, would that be the colour in later life of the ship? It's a pity that they are enamel paints, where lifecolour are acrylic, could you suggest the colours for my Bismarck. many thanks again, Peter👍
Thanks Boatshed👍. Yep, after consultation here on the site I've decided to 'Go For Gold' pin-striping. Never attempted that before, hope I don't screw up the hull 😲 Sea Trials have been postponed due to snow and sub-zero temperatures again 😡 Soon as it warms up I'll be off with TX and cam! Oh yes, and perhaps the boat as well😁 PS: Have some gold enamel (14ml tin) so will fire up the compressor and use my smallest air brush nozzle ~0.03mm! Out of practise so will try on scrap wood / gloss photo paper first!!!! 😉 Many thanks to all for the very encouraging responses 😊😊 All the best, Doug 😎
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.
Yep I've used it to fix water pick ups and outlets also rudder tubes and not had any problems with it sealing brass to wood and plastic to wood. Seems to take modeling enamel paint okay as well once fully cured. But my personal favourite glue is epoxy from pound land, you get a clamp and spatula free with it as well. Happy sticking Colin.
[Score: 8/10] 28"/700g hanley Capable of 4mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a tape drive (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built stand off model of uss handley i believe cant find the plans i used to confirm the correct name, the hull is 3mm balsa for the sides covered with 1mm white card, the bottom is 5 mm balsa. scratch built propeller 3mm shaft and tube to match , scratch built propeller and rudder and fittings, the boat was painted with 4coats of enamelspray primer and 4 coats of light grey enamel with a black bottom.
I use basic enamel for plastics, fiberglass, metal, and wood. Typically Rustoleum, or a store brand like Ace Hardware, etc. If you're gonna clear-coat, check it on a test piece first. Rusoleum changed something a while back and their clear coat sometimes reacts with even their own paints.
[Score: 8/10] Capable of 6mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 777 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electronize ESC - Comments: Tarpon, Built from Model Boat Plans, Plywood Keel with Obechie planks 6 x 3 mm, upperworks/cabin balsa frame and .8mm plywood sides. All decks are planked, approx 6mm x 3mm a white wood, with .5mm Mahogony "Cauking".. Open planks and wood were varnished , paint is Wilko Enamel spray Gloss with spray undercoat. Happy sailing. Muddy....
@ Vic, hi if the wood starts to swell it was too wet and the water soaked in 🤔 I use a flat dense sponge damped only, wiped against the grain. But in John's case this now seems to be academic. Looks like he's heading towards paint! (Back to the acrylic/ enamel discussion ?? 😲) @ John; whatever,I hope it is still 'fun' to do and you don't despair and jack it in. Cheers 😎