I'm about to re-furbish a aerokits 42inch fairy swordfish boat . I started this project 30+ years ago, with a FOX 2 stroke engine and a water jet propulsion system. The engine was rejected due to the inference it caused with the 27Mhz radio system.[ I still have the engine and home made clutch, any interest I'll send photos ]. Back to original request, any suggestions as to suppliers for fittings. Tanks to Stephen for his e-mail. oldterry
Hi Pete, Afraid you've found the chink in my armour😲 I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild😲 Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc. Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the bearings, refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' 😉 Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' 😉 I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical😉 Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days. PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. If it's good enough for NASA ..... ? Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/ I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting😊 There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft. The jury is still out on that! A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube bearings, a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor bearings (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug 😎
Milled the frames from square bar for the engine. Drilled the pivot hole & hole to take the bearing. Second photo shows the layout. The gearing is lower than me previous models at 5.7 to 1. I have used 3.5 to 1 before. We will see.
Just in case anybody wondered, I am still alive (!) but have had a very busy couple of months. What with the birth of a 5th grandchild, the baptism of my only granddaughter plus plenty of gardening and additions to my collection of bearded iris there has been llittle time for model engineering or building Miranda’s hull, although the engine is more or less complete and just about running on compressed air. Oh the joys of being retired - no time to do anything!
Haverlock, seen that video too! All appear to say the same and that's what I've done several times, without effect. Interestingly the friendly Kiwi in the very next video says how tens of thousands have been used and they "jist work". Hmmm. I wouldn't touch one of those fancy programmable things with a barge pole. Least of all for a boat. I want 2 reliable functions (what used to be called 4 channels), as said above, I no longer plan on doing any aircraft, so if I were buying now I would have got a cheapie from Steve Webb, if he weren't out of stock! If I were in the market for a bust yer gut programme -necessary set I would go mad and buy a Jeti Duplex becuase if THAT didn't work it would go straight on my wall as a work of art, being the finest piece of engineering I've seen since the Coventry Climax FWM V8, which I will already have pressed into use as a coffee table. Czechs are SO clever. Cheers, Martin
Ok boys has anyone built this great mans hydroplane and either re engined or insralled a brushless outrunner. Bearing in mind that i am building this boat to operate at correct scale speed not bat out of hell speed. Correct acceleration and speed always enables the model to perform correctly during turns etc, anyhow. The only modification other than the powerplant is using a flex drive.
Hi, Doug: Either of the two file formats you mentioned (.docx or .pdf) is fine, whichever one is easiest for you. Speaking of .pdf files, do you (or anyone else reading this) know of a website where I can download a user manual for the 27mhz or 40mhz versions of Hobby Engine’s tugs? From the details you mentioned in your manual it seems like it has useful information that’s not even mentioned in my 2.4ghz version booklet. My manual doesn’t mention anything about the rear hatch, for example. I don’t know if there’s anything about maintenance in your manual but mine has nothing at all. It seems odd that there’s nothing written at all about prop shaft lubrication or other basic maintenance. My six page booklet tells about installing AA batteries in the transmitter & how to place the 7.2v battery pack in the boat. There’s nothing about how long the 7.2v battery should be charged or how to charge it properly. Very strange.
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation.
Greetings, everyone: I’m looking for an online sources that offer fittings & detail parts, especially for modern tugboats. I have Hobby Engine’s 1:36 scale Richardson tugboat which is already pretty well detailed, but I’d like to replace its two deckhouse life rings with better looking ones & add a few others in appropriate locations. I’m also looking for a life raft drum & a few other detail parts here & there. Most of all I’d like to find navigation lights for the mast. The housings can be most any material but the lenses must be clear. I’m going to remove all of the “dummy” navigation lights on the mast & replace them with LED-lighted ones. The boat came with working port & starboard sidelights so they won’t need to be replaced. I’ve got a dredging barge designed (in my head) to use as a companion for tug. I’ve got all of the basic materials stockpiled for the barge itself plus a nice lattice boom crane for the dredge. I found a beautiful metal clamshell bucket that’s a work of art to use with the crane, too. Although I could scratchbuild things bitts & bollards I’d consider buying some as a time saver. I’ll need portholes for the deckhouse, ventilators, etc. as well. I live in western Massachusetts which is a beautiful area but there aren’t any hobby shops nearby that stock ship fittings of any sort. I used to buy fittings from A.J. Fischer & Bliss Marine but they both went out of business a long time ago. I’ve found several online shops that sell ship kits & fittings but they’re mostly for small scale sailing vessels. I’d appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Pete
Hi Doug, Sorry to see that ESC went up in flames! Guess better now than latter at the pond...😭 I remember one of my tugs about 35 yrs ago. Having a main space fire. Problem was it was in the middle of the pond!😡 All I saw was black smoke out of the engine room....😱 Luckily the tug floated back to shore about an hour latter. But I was able to recover the model! with one burnt ESC....
Evenin' Ed, Yep! Starboard MCR U/S 😡 What is it the explosives experts yell before they fire a charge or test a cannon? 'FIRE IN THE HOLD' Got a bit exciting for a moment, good example of what LiPos can do if unleashed the wrong way😲 All the motor and battery lead soldering melted and they just dropped off 🤔 Whatapong😡 Pics show the good port one and what's left of the stbd one, and the rest of the rat's nest in the boat. The ESCs are not much bigger than my thumb nail so I'm not really surprised one couldn't cut the mustard! Not sure if the wiring was faulty, cos apparently it did run before I bought it, or if the motor was defect or shaft stiff. Shaft seemed to move by hand OK though. Dunno🤔 Never mind, looking for beefier replacements on Conrad, they usually deliver in 1 or 2 days 😊 Now I'm pulling all the wiring out and will rebuild the Engine Rooms, MCR and COMMS Office 😉 While I'm at it I'll dismantle the shafts, clean and lubricate and fit oilers. Now to sort Martin's little snag!🤓 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Martin, there's loads of the little beasts here on eBay UK, and cheaper than mine was here in Germany 😭 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675... More on the charger later, I just melted an ESC in my PTB 😡 Odd, port engine worked, stbd 'Machinery Control Room' burst into flames. And no, I didn't wire it up! I bought it 'as is' to renovate and convert to PT109, what else!? Now about to rip out all the wiring and do it My Way (thanks to Frank😉) Ciao, Doug PS HobbyKing do have some, but more expensive which is unusual for them😲 and not in stock in UKor EU warehouse😭 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/cellmaster-7-digital-battery-hea... SORRY🤔 forget this last one, they put a servo tester where on mine the NiMH tester is!
Kevin, having just got hold of a SLEC fittings kit for a birthday present from my dear wife I can confirm that in fact they are not in plastic, but white metal. All of them. There are no instructions or parts list. They are the old Yeoman fittings kit, a set of which I was promised by Ivan of IP Engineering as I was involved with his works for a while as a pattern maker and he showed me all the original patterns for what I assume is what SLEC now sell, as Ivan flogged off all his Vintage Model Boat Company rights to them. Chances are he is now just casting fittings sets to SLEC as they don't have casting facilities at their place in Watton. I had an original Mersey Marine set with my Crash Tender for my 11th Christmas, but it was stolen and they no longer exist alas. Cheers, Martin
Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. In fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. It actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. In my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. It’s all about having fun, right? If the model looks right, it is right. Enough said.
Hey, Guys: Do you know if this model is scaled from a real boat? There are photos-aplenty on the web of full-size boats that are similar to Hobby Engine’s design but I haven’t seen any that match 100%. At 1:36 scale & 22” (1.833’) OAL that means a full-size Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton would be 66’ long. That’s about right for a small harbor tug.