Gents, just put the Sea Hornet in the build blog section, but whether it gets seen or not, I don't know. If the IC engine is an easy runner, Colin, run it on a water where the turds can't stop you. A navigable river or canal or just run the bugger till someone can prove (PROVE, mind) that you can't. Then just run it till the fuel runs out, reluctantly apologise and leave. BTW, I won't be showing video of this as I have no mobile phone beyond an emergency one that don't do pictures of any kind. I have a video camera somewhere that has dead batteries and a power pack, but where I sail there ain't no power! Doug, would the ED aerial be more like 27 meg if it was 6 foot long? I think it gets damned close to his ceiling if you try to put it up at home. So, chaps, Sea Hornet/Chris-Craft Special Runabout over on the Build blog section ifn you'm interested. Cheers, Martin
OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic. Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level. Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the steering servo in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch. Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished Mahogany and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model. The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three. Cheers, Martin
If I do get it, I don't know if it will be possible to use the diesel engine as no safe water near me that allows IC engines, so may just get used as a display model for the vintage shows I go to. Although I have only managed 1 show this season as ill health and then lack of a vehicle has hampered my year. Which I think is about to get better when my replacement car arrives on Monday. Cheers Colin.
Well Martin, its their loss. I try to make everything except the electrics. I suppose I'm lucky in being a retired prototype engineer, with my own machines and space to work. These days I am restoring more than building, I find it more challenging. Spotted a vintage boat in antique shop today, it had diesel marine power and valve and relay control system with a strange adjustable korts nozzle arrangement. I am trying to get the wife to let me buy it. Cheers Colin.
Hello! Joined a few days ago after retiring from abroad (18 years) and bringing my Krick "Victoria" down, from its well-cosseted storage in my loft. I put her together over 30 years ago... placed new batteries in the R/C... water, gas, squirt of oil on the engine, a long (lit) spill... and yippeeee! Just smartening her up now. A great site! Thank you
OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-outrunner-240... Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&... Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. If I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁
Bright colours ,my kind of ship.better news on the plans they realized the weight and price of postage was wrong and had another guess ,weight 16.5lbs and postage of £46 +a few pence .why dont they just weigh the drawings and carboard tube its not rocket science,could drive to Lincoln and back for cheaper than latest postage quote especialy when postage for a mamod engine from the same company is just over a tenner .Cheers Marky😊
Wish I had caught up with you earlier Doug as your input re the MEKO 200 SAN would have been of great help. Fortunately (also late in the build) I found a long lost 2nd cousin (twice removed!) who served onboard the Spioenkop on her delivery voyage in 2005 and got some good stuff from him. Also found a clip on Facebook that provided detail that I had missed. Watch the interest of the bridge officers as they notice the drone filming them! https://www.facebook.com/andre.oosthuizen.9615/videos/vb.100... Currently the hangar door and chopper movement is not connected to anything...just demonstrated by putting then in contact with a battery individually. I have a spare channel on the stick and also the on/off switch used for model aircraft engine/power cut that I use on my Corvette model for the smoke generator. The sequence I would like to achieve is 1. Activate (power on) door opens. 2. Door reaches stop ...microswitch/ (stays fully open) 3. Chopper movement switch on 4. Chopper clears hangar and reaches stop on helipad. 5. If pos, close sequence in reverse of above. Reilly4 I can let you have a short video but I need some help as to how I place a video on the website. Some more pics taken during the build process attached just FYI.
Going back to your query RNinMunich, something over thirty years of my life was as an engineer officer in the RN. Half in sea going appointments and the other half spent mainly directing ship support and maintenance. Great times!! I spent a bit more time today reading up about DF systems. Loop antenna on Wikipedia was interesting. It seems to me that a simple manual DF loop would be a feasible option for the teardrop; it was certainly that on many varied aircraft at that time (inc the Wellington). Also, thinking about the size of the teardrop, it may be small for a DF loop, but comparing it to the other navigation lights, it's really too small to be one of them! I love chasing all over the net trying to find positive solutions to little mysteries!
Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 If the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? It's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. If DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 It's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. It can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in Integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, frigates, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎
It is, but people come on these things sometimes to just get an idea what a thing is worth. He wouldn't get that from me! I just wanted a 30cc Gannett ever since I first saw one in a cruiser like that at Victoria Park, along with a Westbury Seal sidevalve four (made by Olive Cockman)and a Channel Island Special. It was always a great club. Alas, my lathe isn't big enough to make an engine. Martin
I recently acquired an air screw driven hydroplane fitted with an A.M 15 diesel engine. The boat appeared to have either been from the Mercury Kit which was produced from the early 1960s till late 1970s or may have been built from the plans. What was unusual is that it had been fitted with R.C for rudder only operation and when I put a receiver in to try it, the system worked well. I also ran the engine and it appears to have been as new and after examination of the boat this appeared to have not been used either. In the 1960s I had built a couple of airscrew boats and they were free running powered by engines taken from my control line model aircraft after they had been pranged. Intentions are to eventually get the hydroplane on the water with brushless electric power due to the "No I.C" rules on my local boating lakes, something I never had to worry about as a 15 year old . Boaty😎
With difficulty Ed, and lots of swearing in as many languages as I could remember 😡 They're made of a silvery metallic thread from the ladies dress making department! Got some funny looks (and some intriguing ones😁) while nosing around in there! They have a tendency to sag when the weather is hot, like now, they are pretty limp right now 🤔 At the top they are knotted and gluper sued to a ring of the same stuff around the stack. The eye bolts in the deck are just made of tinned copper wire glued into the deck. The eyes were formed around the nose of a small pair of circlip pliers. When the wires sag I can tighten them (up to a point!) by tilting the eye bolts further out. The little switches are rated 240V 5A or 10A and are for main power, auxiliary power and an ON/OFF/ON for Charge/OFF/Run. Got them from Radio Rim, the predecessor to Conrad, here in Munich. They're still around - the switches I mean 😉 At first I had them in a Ready Ammo Box on the Flak Gun Deck. But that needed a plugged connection under the removable deck. So I quickly changed that to under the engine room vent as in the pics. The box you can still see between the 20mm's. Shame about Radio Shack🤔, spent ages in their store in Garden City Mall Roosevelt Field (where Charlie Lindbergh took off from), on Long Island many years ago. Came home with boxes of 'Stuff' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎