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>> Home > Tags > engine

engine mount
engineering show
SeaSpray by pjarrett Petty Officer   Posted: 10 hours ago
[Score: 8/10] 38"/5000g SeaSpray Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA 850 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Purchased as kit around 1972, fibre glass hull with ply deck and superstructure. Had many changes and refits over the years and was originally fitted with and OS Marine glow engine which gave good performance and was quiet! Changed to the MFA electric motor with ESC. Installed two LiPo batteries which makes the hull well balanced and allows the deep V hull design to plane as designed. Have designed and made two electro-magnetic lifting sticks which help me raise and lower the boat into the water. Age related launching aid!

London Model Engineering Exhibition by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Don't miss the London Model Engineering Exhibition at Alexandra Palace. Friday 19th January - Sunday 21st January The South's Major Showcase of Modelling... Not to be Missed! I'll be showing my RAF Crash Tender on the Blackheath Model Power Boat Club stand. http://londonmodel style='background-color:yellow;'> http://londonmodel style='background-color:yellow;'>

Prop Shaft Grease by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Please ,please,please DO NOT use copaslip or any other grease containing metal particles .It promotes wear on bearing surfaces and in bearing races. It is meant to be used as a non seize assembly grease, not for faces rubbing against each other. When it first came out I was in the motor trade and we like lots of other workshops thought it would be great for things like clutch release bearings. However we found to our cost that it actually promoted wear and we had to dismantle the thing and clean off the Copaslip from everywhere and replace both the bush in the shaft end the bearing and the clutch .A notice in big letters was put up on the grease cabinet.DO NOT USE GREASE CONTAINING METAL PARTICLES ON MOVING PARTS> IF YOU DO YOU BEAR THE COST OF LABOUR, PARTS,etc TO RECTIFY ANY DAMAGE resulting from this. Chief Engineer .👍😱 I would use the very soft water resisting white grease and oil.Grease nipple each end and oiler in the middle. A little grease each end and a dribble of oil in the middle.Only a little of each.

Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW! The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.

choosing an electric motor by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Since quite a few boats were intended to run IC engines and now we use electrics these two pages may be of use to those scratching their heads as to the size of brushless to choose Hope it helps someone

Fender addition by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
(Boaty) I remember about 20 years she did make a set of sails for a boat I had. She also made clothes for figures we had on a Swordsman boat still at home on the shelf. Was 4 stroke petrol so not used anymore (photo attached , Kiwi Engine). drifted off subject but interesting enough. Stephen.

Unusual and fun by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
Not your everyday RC boat. I suspect a rowing boat...especially a dual rowing boat takes quite a bit of engineering !

Fish boxes by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
Made a stack of boxes and some that I will add some fish too also! Julie Jean is a trawler that my Dad fitted out and put the engines in and fellow modelmaker Ballast will note the nod given to his own model of DH142.

Electronics Down Below (5) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Neil, You read too much!! 😉 Before you give yourself the work of altering the rudders see how she performs with the twin ESC & rudder mixer. For slow manoeuvring, especially in reverse, I'm pretty sure the rudders will be almost irrelevant, apart of course for controlling the mixer and hence motors. If you use the P94 in Mode 3 you can spin the boat on it's axis😉 The guys with small rudders in front of the props most likely don't have twin ESCs and a mixer. Two maxims: Why complicated when simple works! If it ain't broke don't fix it! I intend to 'suck it and see' first. Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't 'over engineer', cheers Doug 😎

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Cervia by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 29 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 54" Cervia Single Propellor (4 Blade 100mm) Direct Drive to a 4 Cylinder Sealion Eng (4 Blade) - Comments: Maybe the next boat to finish from my dad list of unfinished projects. Just 3 boats to go and 3 petrol engines to consider. This was to be petrol electric with LandRover wiper motors to power from a generator driven by the 4 cylinder 4 stroke petrol engine.

International Model Boat Show by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
Good show, I attended Saturday. Got a load of bits and pieces for my huntsman was certainly better than the model engineers show a few weeks ago.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hello, another couple of months and a progtrress report is due. I have attached a photo of the electrics finished. All but the permanent engine mount, the current (sorry for the pun)one is adjustable I will make a more stable one in due course. next to finish the top sides, the windows, the windscreen and the mast. Richard

Tug Tow by Baggie Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Wow....what a great picture and feat of mini engineering!

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have to agree with jarvo remember the original boat was intended to have an IC engine and the radio control of the 1960s. Transistors were in use and the radio gear while it was bulky was not that heavy. Personally I would recommend you remove all of your batteries and stick in a decent 3cell LIPO. Where are you trying to ballast your boat down to? The originals ran with little if any extra ballast purist would say they were over scale speed but you have a throttle stick.