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>> Home > Tags > engine

engine mount
engineering show
Sadie by chrisc Apprentice   Posted: 12 minutes ago
[Score: 5/10] 38" Sadie Single Propellor - Comments: Lesro Rapier from the late 1970's. was powered by a glow fuel engine hoping to fit brushless motor

Hector Read by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks for that Marky. Good to think she is still afloat. An engineer who once worked aboard related a hair raising experience he had years ago involving restarting a failed engine during a hazardous attempt to get a line aboard a drifting coaster in heavy seas off Gt Yarmouth. It gives an added interest and life to our models when hearing from seamen who actually worked aboard the real vessel. I am sure there must be many modellers with similar tales.

Anyone else...... by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
ever built a Dumas Miss Unlimited hydroplane ? I captured the complete kit and running hardware for a song, and the 1/10 Allison engine kit along with a scale drive figure are winging their way to me from the USA as I type. One question I already have is...was there a plan supplied with the kit, or is the build pamphlet all there is ?

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
It was a good event, The guys from Shoreham are amazing modellers and it was good meeting them.

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by Spitfire99 Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
Sound like the day went very well. Shame I missed it due to a night shift

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by Ray Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
I went for the first time this year a great little show,and models.

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

happy hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Dave, fortunately it disappeared fairly soon after I started practical engineering, was banned as a manual solvent cleaning agent in it's pure form, as we had it😡 Often wondered if such things in my early working days could account for some of my 'little eccentricities' 😉

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by ads90 Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
It was a really good show yesterday at Midhurst with Basingstoke, Phoenix, Swiss Cottage, Portsmouth Model Display Team, Portsmouth Power Boat, Selsey and Springbok model boat clubs to name a few. A good many visitors and good camaraderie between clubs, so good all round exhibition which also included great model train layouts and the fantastic Meccano modellers. Here's to next year guys.

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Are you still having problems generating enough steam. Looking at the set up the boiler and engine look well matched. What size and type of burner are you using? I use a flat ceramic burner on a similar sized boiler and it's up to pressure in about 4 mins. I take a thermos water flask to the lake with warm water and fill the boiler just before I steam up. I use a separate gas canister to do initial heat up then switch to the on board supply. This helps stop the can freezing when going at full bore in the initial stages. Subsequent gas supply is much lower and does not produce much cooling of the gas canister. Looking forward to seeing your model under steam.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
I was also told about cutting away the front edge for the same reason, digging in on turn's. I have found on hulls like the Vosper RAF Crash Tenders and MTB hulls they sit on the water on a turn as if they are stuck on the water no roll at all. Also on the Huntsman style hull they also turn a lot better with minimal roll. It was told to me on her the other day that the rudders were meant to be the way they are and there was no need to cut away the leading edge. I have done this for many years now, since the mid 70's and had great results I even put a 10cc engine in a hull rated for 5 to 7.5cc and it was an amazing boat to run. I turned a couple of boats upside down until the rudders were trimmed and then good to turn. I'm glad I have found someone that thinks it's alright to do. 👍😊

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
Great bit of information , Many thanks pmdevlin. I have only ever used 5mm shaft's and gone out with a variation of small to medium nylon prop's and played on the pond bank with them until I got one suitable. Then I would go for a cast alloy or bronze to that size. But this has been on IC engines, up until about 3 years ago. I have used the same way on brushless since. I have seen others using thinner 4 mm shafts and having problems. I have also always used a prop shaft support under the boat and if I have any type of gap between the coupling and where the shaft goes through the hull I would always add a wedge of wood epoxied in. Once again no backlash on the shaft to make it come loose. The only time I have damaged shafts has been through sheer stupidity racing round a pond with others and misjudging the distance and the bank jumps out and collides with the boat. Whoops broadsides with a nice hard concrete bank and, Yep new shaft needed. But as you say the throttle stick will take you from as slow as you want to flat out. Except when it's IC slow isn't always possible if you do not have a clutch fitted.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Personally I wouldn't say you were nut's. It's people like me that are probably the nutty ones. Without your help some of us would be left in the dark with some of these small motor's. I do not understand how to work out the electrics. So your help that you give is a great thing for numpties like me. To buy a IC engine and stick in a boat was an easy task. But Brushless i'm lost. So many places have banned IC's we have to now rethink. Keep you help coming PLEASE.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Canabus, I think that's the same pdf I found👍 Snag is - you can't upload pdf's here🤔 You have to do what I did; Snip-It into jpeg pics and upload them. BTW: attached are the dimension drawings to go with the spec. table. Graham: table shows that the ECOs all have 6mm output shafts! RE apparent discrepancy between powers of the 400 and 600; same applies to the 200 and 300 so I don't think they are typos! I assumed it has something to do with the construction/magnets (type and strength) or even timing? Hope this helps untangle things a little😉 Happy Non-brushing all, cheers Doug😎 PS Dave: it is normal engineering practice to publish data measured at the quoted Nominal supply voltage - unless otherwise specified with the respective data.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Graham, I have attached the same table that Doug sent me. This has the relevant information you seek. According to the table attached the Graupner 500 kV ECO has a specified output of 1440 watts and 80Amps. Strangely the 400 kV ECO has a specified output of 2010 Watts. So the 1440Watt output is questionable and may be a typo based on the other entries in the table. more likely to be 2440Watts In any case you need a 5mm diameter propeller shaft. For shaft alignment i use a brass tube that slides snugly on the propeller shaft and then on the motor shaft. When the tube rotates/slides well on both then the shafts are aligned. I then fit the motor mounts, check and tweak the alignment if necessary, remove the tube and replace with a universal coupling. If the motor or propeller shafts are a different diameter then I insert the relevant size smaller tube inside the larger of the tubes. This method is simple and has served me well, including for larger IC engine powered boats belonging to friends. Haig