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Model Boats Website Team
February 2017: 6 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people July 2016: 4 people June 2016: 1 person May 2016: 1 person April 2016: 9 people March 2016: 5 people February 2016: 5 people
I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.
Confederation marine modellers will be hosting a display & model boat pool for Canada's 150 birthday here at Hamilton's Steam & Technology Museum . The museum has a working walking beam pump , live model steam engine rides , mecano displays
I was given a RAF crash tender kit many, many years ago when I was eleven, and a boy in Yorkshire. Now live in Queensland , Australia. I think it was a too much for me, and my Dad wasn't interested, too busy........ and well not a good Dad anyway. It was left partly constructed for years and then I completed the hull and installed an ic engine. Left for more years until I saw this site. Bought a fittings kit and now my boat looks very like others on line.still haven't sailed it, as more needs to be done. I will put up some photos soon. It is interesting to see the differences in the crash tender photos from the members. I guess it reflects our personalities and our boat's histories.
The white metal life rings supplied in the fittings kit not only look flat and uninteresting but more than that they weigh in at 57 grams individually and along with the rest of the metal fittings above deck will raise the centre of gravity quite a lot and may affect the roll of the hull on turns. Well that’s my theory anyway and I’m using it to justify replacing them with something lighter and more pleasing to the eye. I found some plastic ones on eBay that were roughly the same diameter for a couple of pounds each that looked ideal. The rope detail needed to be added to them to replicate the originals and this was done with some nylon cord that I superglued into slots filed into the circumference. I then wound seven turns to form the quadrants, securing each turn with a spot of glue and ensuring that the ends all arrived on what will be the underside of the rings. They were then sprayed with a couple of coats of white acrylic and the red bands brush painted. The weight of the new life ring is 19 grams, exactly one third of the metal one and it looks, to my eye, a million times better 😁 To locate them on the engine room roof I cut some 3mm plasticard wedges and superglued them in place, the actual fixing will be two small screws from the underside of the roof. The white metal ones will make ideal ballast weights if I need to make any adjustments 😉
As you all know, Stephen does a real nice selection of 3d printed fittings. I had a dilemma recently, and asked him if he could do a specific thing for me. After some time finding plans etc, and waiting for me to supply sizes, I got what I wanted! The Piper Cub plane has a specific engine, a Continental, with 4 cylinders protruding from the cowl, nobody does a nice scale model of this, they are usually just some bits of balsa and plastic stuck on the sides. Well I have nice ones now, Good eh! And just for good measure, the last picture is the real thing that I used for reference. There should be heat shields over the cylinders, but then you cant se them, so I'm leaving that off so all can admire what I have!😊
Motor yacht : Barracuda Length: 905 mm Width: 145 mm Material: poplar plywood 3mm, balsa standard 1 mm, 1 mm linden wood, laminate fabric 120gr and 43gr. Engine: Mig 480 7.2V bidirectional DC 7.4V regulator Propeller 35 mm Graupner spruce strips 2x6mm https://youtu.be/c3CPk-lIo0A https://youtu.be/w9q2ndTFccc
For years we sail model boats in Spaarnwoude. The club is regularly engaged in the organization of competitions, international or nationally. The high speeds are achieved with these boats make the hobby spectacular. Different cc engines reach speeds of 60 to 100 km / h. The most popular classes are 3.5cc, 7.5cc, 15cc and 27cc.
Rewind…. When I first started my build blog I described my visit to the London Model Engineer exhibition in January 2016 and that my enthusiasm for model making was re-kindled. It was as a result of seeing a crash tender model on the Blackheath MPBC stand and getting into conversation with the owner of the boat. He went on to inform me that kits were still being made for them and he gave me the names of a couple of companies to look at. His valuable information led to some further research on the subject and finding various sites including this one which I immediately registered with, and I subsequently bought a Vintage Model Works 46" RAF crash tender kit and embarked on my rediscovered hobby. Fast forward…. I attended the same exhibition this January and was delighted to see the same chap on his club stand and I took the opportunity to remind him of our previous meeting and discussion and to thank him for his advice and recommendations. He looked at some of the photographs of my boat that I had on my camera and he was very complimentary on my building efforts. That chap is Phil Abbott, otherwise known to his friends as Steamboat Phil, and I would like to give him the credit for re-igniting my model making interest. Thanks Phil, I hope you are following and enjoying my build blog. Robbob
Hi Robbob, We're slowly and steadily tagging keywords across the website. It's an experiment at the moment more than anything else. I do like how you can drill down into boat names and keywords though, which then brings up other posts from across the website containing those words. It could be used for all sorts of things mind. Recommending things you might be interested in, to show trending tags, similar to twitter! It also helps search engines. The website is still a little lost in Google. Stupidly Westbourne models ranks much higher than both this site and meyhem! Stephen
great video, I could watch it over and over, for the eagle eyed amongst us, notice no RAF roundel on the pennant, as it was still in trials, hence crew not in an RAF uniform, they where probably Vosper employees. Also the pennant flying under the ensign was blue/white signifying vessel may deviate from true course being under test. All of the pictures etc bouncing around are pre RAF handover, if you look real close the clues are there!😎 I'm watching these over, I have a plan for an engine sound unit coming along, just got to finish an rc plane project that Stephen has helped with, that's for another discussion!
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, Its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some RC plane gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year. However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished! Back on track... George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only. Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with rc planes, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing. Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tu rnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner -for-600-heli-880kv.html This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊 If brushless, its a specific speed controller, https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ho bbyking-50a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.h tml and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running. Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up! Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you. If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result, Any questions, just ask, Paul PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉