Kevin, having just got hold of a SLEC fittings kit for a birthday present from my dear wife I can confirm that in fact they are not in plastic, but white metal. All of them. There are no instructions or parts list. They are the old Yeoman fittings kit, a set of which I was promised by Ivan of IP Engineering as I was involved with his works for a while as a pattern maker and he showed me all the original patterns for what I assume is what SLEC now sell, as Ivan flogged off all his Vintage Model Boat Company rights to them. Chances are he is now just casting fittings sets to SLEC as they don't have casting facilities at their place in Watton. I had an original Mersey Marine set with my Crash Tender for my 11th Christmas, but it was stolen and they no longer exist alas. Cheers, Martin
We hear a lot these days about encouraging the younger generation into pastimes such as model boats and model engineering and probably these issues have always been a topic for gloomy discussion. The very fact that we are still at it probably gives the lie to the gloomiest predictions. Anyway, this train of thought was brought about by a discovery in a dark corner of my workshop: Many years ago (in a different life) I was involved in primary education and following a BBC schools tv series on Nelson and naval history the class project developed into one about ships and all things naval. One group was fascinated by sailing ships after we had visited both HMS Victory and the Mary Rose ( still lying on her side then) and inspired by some drawings of different rigs in a Model Boats Scale Special they made some simple models to illustrate them. This is what I found, along with an Airfix HMS Manxman and two of those superb 1/700 (?) waterline models, of HMS Hood and the Bismarck, these three made by me to add to the display. These pictures show all these items which have survived years tucked away among the junk in the garage! The sail models were simply made with balsa, dowel, cotton and cartridge paper for sails, and some had even started to acquire rigging and staysails before the term ended. This all happened many years ago and I have been retired from teaching for 20 years, but I can still remember the names of all the different rigs, despite never having been a sailor - I hope it inspired some of the class into modelling, if not getting involved in the real thing. Smiffy
The Midhurst model engineering show is on again at its usual time for this year. Many of us who regularly attend this event enjoy this show, meeting up with fellow boat clubs / enthusiasts and looking at all the other interesting engineering hobbies that are in attendance. The new centre complex at Midhurst is a great place to visit and provides great access for getting our exhibits in and out of the halls plus it has welcoming facilities including a small cafe and caters for those persons with disabilities. The date of the show is Sunday 11 February 2018. Many model boat clubs display along with huge model train displays, Mecano, etc. Not had confirmation yet but I beleive that the doors open at 10.30 hours for the public. Basingstoke Model Boat Club members will be out in force manning their stand. See 'The Grange' site for further details.
Neil, the suggestions about prop support are all valid, just different takes on things. I would (if you intend to repaint the hull) sand off to key, or prime the old paint prior to installing the shaft, as it will be easier to repaint and prep. Question, sorry if I missed this, is that a new shaft with new bearings? If not get new from shg marine (they are at the Blackpool, show, and the midlands engineering show if you can get to either, I'm not sure where you are?) they are dirt cheap, called aceteal or something similar, they water lubricate, and cost about £2 each. Roll the inner shaft on a piece of glass or a mirror, this will tell you if its bent, any sign of this, get a new one, or you might have alignment and vibration issues. (glass is totally flat! there's a free tip to test you prop shafts ha ha !!👍) same can be bought from shg, and get stainless. Back to the support, the thing Dave mentions is a piece of wood that fits between the hull, and the shaft. The shaft is then epoxied to this, giving support, but it wont be true to original. You have the original support, so remodel this to fit your new angle. If you use any bolts etc to secure, use stainless so they don't rust. Once painted, it will be hidden, and its underneath anyway so cant be seen. It will need to be tight to the outershaft, once positioned, you could solder, as they are both brass, and either feed into the hull bend over and epoxy, or screw as per original. Here is my big fireboat, its twin, but the concept is the same, the support came into the hull, and on this example, I put a brass pin through, and epoxied it all
Hi Alan, I bought mine at a model engineering show, a pinstriping set by 'BEUGLER' a USA company. My kit has three sizes of pinstrip,1/16,1/8 and 3/32, they have a wide selection of sizes, try them on the website, not cheap but good quality. Peter
Hi Rolfman, I don't have a link, never looked for one!, but the the following observations - 1) it helps enormously if you own a small lathe, which I admit I do, and also admit not everyone does. 😉 Dremeling is OK - as far as it goes! BUT - a little offline (in the original mechanical engineering sense!😉) creates friction and vibration which negates the expense and effort to fit ball races in the first place 🤔 A lathe with a dead centre eliminates this source of error. 2) The ball race should NEVER be soldered or brazed. (When did you last see a car wheel bearing soldered or welded in?) Any process which includes applying heat to both tube and ball race can, and most probably will, damage the ball race, especially if it is one of the 'packed for life' types. You will boil the grease packing out of the race and possibly distort the rings. Correct technique would be to machine the tube (on a lathe for accuracy) to a few thou less than the OD of the ball race. The machining creates a step inside the tube, with depth to accommodate the thickness of the ball race. The end of the tube is then GENTLY heated and the ball race pressed in. This should preferably be done on the lathe using the dead centre to ensure concentricity. When everything cools down you have a tight 'shrink fit'. No other 'glue' needed😉 BTW: I have been pedantic using the term 'ball race' because that is what Allen has bought and shown in his pic. A 'bearing' can also be a simple bush, which can be soldered or brazed with less problem than ball races BUT - needs even more care with alignment as it has no 'give' like a ball race! I am faced with exactly this problem with corrections to my Graupner Graf Spee where one shaft and it's bushes are out of alignment 🤔 I will most likely replace the bushes with ball races. Hope I haven't discouraged you but I wondered why you went this way! Good luck, Doug 😎
Hi, I really do not have any advice for you re propulsion units etc. but it sounds to me like you are pretty much sorted with the PT-109. I am in the middle or building an ItalerI MTB no. 77 which as you said in your blog should be close to show standard when completed. I am not gifted with the engineering/modelling expertise which allows me to complete a fantastic model from a pile of wood, string and metal. Sooo. . . . . . I, like you, build plastic kits which gives me the pleasure of sailing something which resembles a boat, rather than an upturned plank!!! Skilled builders do sometimes pour scorn on plastic boats as do aero modellers who see ARTF aeroplanes on the patch. We are all different and I make no apologies for sailing a plastic boat. Very lucky is the man/woman who is able to construct such masterpieces as those seen at shows or even on the local pond. Plastic or wood you still follow the hobby and surely that is the most important thing! Sorry for "going on" and being boring but there it is! Cheers
That look great, I saw boats like that at a model engineering show earlier this year, I can't remember the name of where It was, but It was at some race course Anyway I was very Impressed with the boats on display, the sails colours look cool lol 😀 Can I ask how long did It take to plan/build, also did you use a sewing machine on the sails? Thanks for reading & the time you spend on It 😊
Yes and there Is a lot to learn, I suggest you find a book on the subject. One I have, Scale model steam boats by Philip Vaughan Williams. It should be available your side of the pond. You will also have to find a supplier for the valves, pipe & connectors. I use Polly Model Engineering. ( In U.K.) I did Install one off my steam boats with a pump, but have removed It, The problem being I have not found a reliable means of automatic control. I now hand pump after 20 minutes running If I wish to continue sailing. The photo shows the set up. Black arrow, bypass valve, silicone flow & return pipes. Purple arrow the pump. Blue arrow Is the clack this Is horizontal, but I had to fit a stop valve Yellow arrow. The ball wouldn't rest on the seat In the clack until there was pressure In the boiler. Worked a lot better vertical with the supply at the bottom.
I wasn't commenting on your high tech approach Dave but my lack of It. The job would be a lot easier If I had the right bits lying around and the right tools and know how 😯 As an example, bent paperclips play a major part In my 'engineering' 😁 Any road up, the Initial results of my cunning plan are looking good. The steering works but the overall weight of the motors and batteries Is quite high. I've not fitted the kit Into the complete boat yet but built everything up In the wreck with ability to simply transfer It when everything looks right. The motors are a couple of 6v jobbies that I bought cheap a while back and have plenty of drive to make the boat show great promise In the test tank (bath). BUT they weigh In at 40g each. I do have a couple of 9v motors that are smaller and only weigh 19g but didn't get used as I don't have any 9v battery packs. With just 6v they didn't pack enough punch. I have just found an old AA battery holder that takes 6 batteries so that will be the next test - fingers crossed. The rudder system, Cunning Plan Mk 1, needed some development leading to the loss of at least 2 paperclips 😭 and the addition of some extra bits of plastic but the Cunning Plan Mk 1c does It for me. So to sum up 'all' I need to do Is put the power plant on a diet and we're there. The current set up does everything I've wanted It to do for the last 50 years but I would only trust It on a very flat water so If push comes to shove It will do. Unfortunately I'm otherwise engaged this weekend so you'll have to hold your breath for a few days but by this time next week I should have the full story with pictures as a build log that I will post after a full test on the lake (not the bath). 👍 BTW, does anybody have a spare davit for sale, or dimensions and photo so I can make one?