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>> Home > Tags > epoxy resin

epoxy resin
aliphatic resin glue
epoxy resin
Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark

water proofing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😡. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. If you send me a private message with your email address I will share. Its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave

Covering hull by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
To get the nice reverse curve in the bows, large blocks of balsa were used; luckily got given plenty of them years ago. I did use the thin ply supplied for the hull skin as replacing it is expensive, just recut to suit. After carving the bow shape and sanding everything true I covered the hull with fine woven glass cloth, after coating the hull with spray adhesive and letting it get tacky. After 2 coats of epoxy resin and lots of wet sanding, time to fit the rudder tube and prop shaft (with 3d printed oiler) and motor mounts, then the inside was sealed with epoxy.

Skeg on King Fisher by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Grandpa I agree with the advice Mark has already given, but would add that the large keel you seem to be adding will make the model difficult to turn. A simple infill from the keel to the shaft will give you all the strength you need without altering the handling characteristics. I usually use a piece of hard balsa to make a fillet. Gouge a slot where it sits on the shaft and epoxy in place. Cover with tissue or cloth coated with sanding sealer or resin. I am attaching a pic of my Sea Queen which shows the skeg. There is a small flared keel forrard of the skeg but this is part of the original design of this fast planing hull. You could add a short flared keel forrard of your shaft for say an inch or two but not to the full depth. Good luck and please share the end result Dave

Epoxy coating the hull by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
With the rubbing strakes fitted the hull can now receive two more coats of epoxy resin. The resin was mixed to the 30:100 ratio in sufficient quantity to coat the whole hull, and the 90 minute pot life meant that this could be done at a sensible pace. I found it best to apply a thin even coat and not to over-brush the resin, that way there were no runs and the brush did not drag, 'less is more' is always the case. The strakes absorb the resin quite well so they should be harder and more resistant to knocks. The resin was left to cure and harden for a couple of days before a rub down with a 400 grit wet & dry abrasive on a sanding block. The weave of the cloth is now fully covered and the resulting surface is remarkably smooth even at this stage. A third coat of resin builds up the finish layer and when dried resulted in a very pleasing mirror finish and the glassfibre cloth is now completely invisible! As satisfying as this shiny surface is it must be rubbed down to give a good surface for the primer paint to adhere to. I used a 1200 grit wet & dry paper with plenty of water to flatten and key the surface ready for when the painting process could be started.

Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8" ply by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
There are various ways to do this but the simplest way is to use thinned dope or paint/varnish.Giving 3 or 4 coats This thinned paint etc soaks into the timber not just sitting on top and also seeps into the nooks and crannies. Epoxy or other resins can also be used, again well thinned so it soaks in .Be fairly liberal with it and tilt and twist the hull in all directions so the paint runs into all the nooks and crannies. Good luck with it John

Chine strakes by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
The chine strakes are made from 3/16 x 3/16 obechi and also need a very thorough steaming to get them into the correct shape. As with gunwhale strakes these also need to be bent in two different planes, the first being the curve of the bow and the second is the rise and fall in angles required to follow the line of the chine stringers. Pre-drilling these strips prior to glueing with epoxy and pinning is very important as the wood is very thin and would very easily split if not done, remembering that the wood is already under stress because of the bending process 😰 Fortunately this also went well without any disasters, and after a bit of filling and rubbing down I'm finally able to apply the last two coats of resin to give the hull it's final surface 😀

Fibreglassing the hull side skins & transom. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
The fibreglassing process is turning out to be a great deal easier than I anticipated, the cloth weave allows it to conform to the hull shape without any creasing, and the resin brushes on very easily and has no unpleasant smell at all. I had read other build blogs where the resin was described as having an unpleasant smell and was difficult to work with, perhaps that's because this is epoxy rather than polyester? In retrospect I could have ordered an alternative resin kit from the supplier where two bottles of hardener are supplied, one slow (95 min pot life) and one fast (17min pot life), because as my confidence increased I could probably do an application with the fast hardener in the shorter time and thus curing time would also be correspondingly quicker. The transom is the last face to do and once that had cured I could then give the complete hull it's first rub down before I shape and fix the gunwhale and the chine rubbing strakes. Once these are on I can apply the two further resin coats to get the final finish.

Fibreglassing the hull bottom skins. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
The hull was prepared for fibreglassing, any pins are punched below the surface, filled and rubbed down with a fine grit paper. The wood does not need any sanding sealer applied as this will react with the epoxy resin. I cut the cloth roughly to size and shape and laid onto the bottom skin, the upper edge was lightly taped with masking tape to hold it in place. The resin is mixed to the correct 100:30 ratio and stirred well, the pot life is 95 minutes and will allow me to take my time to get this right. My previous test was very helpful in establishing a working sequence and I know how the materials will react when I start working them and how much time I have before the brush stops brushing and starts dragging the resin. The cloth is folded over to the other side of the keel and a thin coat of resin applied over the skin and the side of the keel and then the fabric is carefully folded back onto the wet resin. The resin immediately starts to draw the cloth to the surface and a very light brushing from the centre outwards helps to make it smooth and flat, the remaining resin can then be gently brushed onto the cloth so that there is an even coating. The cloth needed to be pushed up against the keel sides and I used a steel rule edge to get it into the junction of hull and keel. I decided to trim the cloth just at the bow along the line of the join in the skins whilst the rein was still wet so that I would have a clean butt join in the cloth in this region instead of an overlap, probably not really necessary as an overlap should sand down ok and that join will be covered by the chine stringer, but it seemed like a good idea anyway. I did a similar thing on the keel below the propshaft and around the skeg. This was done with a sharp new Stanley knife blade without disturbing the cloth and the excess cloth removed. Once the cloth is on you must resist the urge to brush on any more resin or smooth it out any more, this first resin coating only needs to be light as subsequent coats will build up and fill the cloth weave. I let it to cure overnight and the following day is still felt tacky so I erred on the side of caution and left it for a further day until it was entirely dry to the touch. The excess cloth was then trimmed back with a sharp blade. Caution, be careful because the cut edge of the cloth is itself very sharp, as I found out the hard way! Feeling quite satisfied with these initial results and a great deal more confident I repeated the process for the other bottom skin. At this rate of progress, allowing for proper curing of the resin, it will take 8 days just to cover all five faces of the hull with cloth alone, but a wise man said 'a job worth doing is a job worth doing well' 😄

Fitting the side skins. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Steve. The design of the VMW kit uses skins that run the full length of the hull although I have seen others that have a balsa bow section, and in my opinion the full skin approach is possibly better because the bow shape is formed very easily without repeated sanding and contouring and checking for symmetry. The first crash tender I built 46 years ago was all ply so In that respect I have had a bit of practice !. Keep watching the blog and you see that I also reinforce the hull with fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin. Rob.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
The lower portion of the hull frame was covered with one piece of 1 mm marine ply. This requires considerable manipulation to fit around the propeller tunnels. This was done by gluing the skin initially to the keel and then slowly working out to the chine. Between each manipulation of the ply skin it was clamped and glued in place with a two part epoxy. The process is time consuming, but the adhesive strength makes it worthwhile. The ply sheet can be made to follow the section contours by heating the ply with a heat gun which melts the ply internal adhesive and allows the sheet to take up the desired shape. One of the more unusual features of this vessel is that the chine strip is visible between the upper and lower hull sheathing. Not only is there a definite horizontal surface, the upper surface protrudes beyond the edge of the hull sheathing to form an integral spray rail, see pictures. A length of 1/16 x 3/8 basswood strip was inserted into slots cut into the bulkhead sections. This was then glued to the top of the chine strip to reproduce the shape. Once the upper sheathing is fitted this will be trimmed to the final dimensions. Usually with a frame and plank hull I reinforce the joints with glass fibre tape and fibre resin. Decided to try a different approach; had a tube of construction adhesive at hand which would stick well to a blanket. Ran a fillet of this alongside the keel and then around the areas where the chine strips meet the sheathing. This turned out well, both reinforcing and sealing the joints. It is also much quicker than the glass fibre approach, probably lighter and less messy too. At this stage added a section of steel coat hanger bent to follow the contours of the bow. This is to protect the bow in an inevitable contact with the pool side. Located it with epoxy resin and faired into the sheathing. As the areas behind the bow and in front of the transom will eventually become inaccessible, ran liquid glass fibre resin into them to seal and strengthen the joints. To assess attempts to control weight; measured the weight of every major component that will be installed in the finished model. On refection, the conclusion was fairly obvious. The batteries, motors and bow thruster are significantly the heaviest items. Relays, servos, ESCs and Rx will have very little effect on the overall weight of the model. NiMh batteries are around half the weight of similar capacity sealed lead acid cells and will be used. This type of battery is slightly heavier than more expensive NiCad etc.

Question about Adhesives by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Mickky Wood is easily glued with a white aliphatic wood glue, epoxy resin or even superglue. Assuming your model is intended to be sailed then the glue needs to be waterproof. That said many modellers cover the outside (and sometimes the inside) of their hulls with glass cloth or fibre mat impregnated with resin. The end result is a very strong and waterproof hull. The glue used will be covered by the cloth/resin so need not be waterproof. Wood glues tend to be slower setting so you have more time to position the pieces, but then have to arrange a method to hold the pieces together until dry. All three glues will give a strong joint and the resin will also fill any small gaps. If this is your first foray into working with wood I suggest you visit your local pound shop and purchase a sample of each type of glue and practice with some scrap wood to see which you prefer. With any glue the surfaces need to be dry, close fitting and free of any contaminants. The oil off your fingers and hands can cause problems so avoid touching the joint surfaces after you have prepared them for glueing. Good luck wth the build dave

Gorila resin glue by felix Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi Haverlock, Taken your advice dropped into Poundland today, and discovered they had a few sets of epoxy resin in stock, I purchased three packets to see how they go, I ask if these are a regular stock item it appears so, but they have been bought over by a South African company so stock items may change. Thank you for your help, and kind offer Felix

Gorila resin glue by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 9 months ago
Update poundland have stopped listing the epoxy on their website BUT some of their shops still have stock I just bought 5 ~grins~ I would NOT use it for " mission critical " joints but for normal fixings its fine. Over the years I have used a whole load of different 2 part epoxy resins and the most important factor is MIXING you should mix it then mix it some more.