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>> Home > Tags > epoxy

epoxy
epoxy resin
epoxy
Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Ed, I thought the brass looked a bit flimsy in your first pic of it🤔 I would be tempted to replace it with something thicker and slot it into the keel, fixed with epoxy glue. As I did on my U25 after discovering, by research in the Deutsches Museum here in Munich, that Krick had got it all wrong! Even the rudder shape was wrong, I corrected it to original drawings found in the museum. Rudder is brass with the stock slit as Colin suggested and soldered using my 50W iron as previously described. 😊 Cheers Doug PS Shaft struts were added as well, soldered to the tubes the same way. PPS original red😡plastic props are due for replacement by Rabeosch brass!

Propshaft and oiler fitting by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Propshaft and oiler fitting Now for the fitting of the propshaft, fortunately I have a long series drill that will go through the keel and through the bulkhead B4 into the motor compartment; this went well and came out in the expected place. Next a trial fit of the tube in the keel and into the skeg, again this lined up perfectly and all that needed to be done was to epoxy it into place. First I nearly forgot to fit the oiler system to the prop tube, careful drilling and deburring and making sure no swarf is left in the tube. Finally wrapping a piece of plumber’s PTFE gas tape around the tube to ensure a gas tight fit (oil tight) we are ready to commit the tube to final fixing. Epoxy mixed and applied I put a couple of small wedges in the skeg to stop it moving and a wedge under the oiler to make sure it was horizontal.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Graham I usually use the dremel to remove as much of the epoxy around the shaft, then get a big lump hammer and hit the end of the shaft to break the seal. Depending on how well you fitted the shaft it normally comes loose after a couple of taps and can then be tapped out from inside.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

It’s poxy this Epoxy. Hull, here I come by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 17 days ago
Nice to see she' coming along well. glad to have been help with the magazine article. Will be good to watch how she progresses. I will keep watching. 👍

It’s poxy this Epoxy. Hull, here I come by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Ok, so I bit the bullet and got seem epoxy for the hull skins. I had some Gorilla glue but it was suggested that epoxy was better. Damn the stuff took ages to apply, and finding ways to clamp one hull skin with the limited stuff I had was testing my patience. I’ll be honest, I spent nearly an hour just finding ways of securing the hull skin to the frame. Used clamps, masking tape, bits of the kit and scraps to get it secured. Then just needed to wait 16 hours for it to set.....If you want to see some really impressive model making go to Harry Potter World. Hog warts Castle in there is immense. So pics show current state of play with one half of the bottom hull done. Next work will be at the weekend or next week, getting the other side on....

Cabin sides and deck supports by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Before we continue I must mention some fine detail that should have been mentioned in the previous build update and that is the preparation of the cabin sides. Because the bow end of the cabin sides narrow there is a need to score/cut through partially in the places indicated in the build instructions, this is around the cabin side window and enables the side to bend without cracking the external faces, and this also applies to the rear of the cabin sides where it joins B5. The cabin side extensions can also be glued into position as well To continue, having secured all the bulkheads to the keel I can now epoxy the cabin sides to the bulkheads ensuring that the height is maintained side to side and bends smoothly round to the bow and stern. Allowing this to set for a couple of hours I can fit the deck stringers from ¼ x ⅛. These are cut to length to suite the gaps between the bulkheads and glued in place using aliphatic resin glue. I also added some extra support where the cabin side extensions are since its only a butt joint.

BellaRagazza by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 2/10] 26"/1000g BellaRagazza Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D3548/4 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy Plush 60A ESC ESC - Comments: Ok, so this is Project 2 of 3. Started as a scratch build from plans purchased from John Toms as I recall back in March 2016. Yes, I know, should have finished it by now, but I have been busy with life and work and all that jazz. The photo shows where I got to within a month. Progress has been painfully slow since and mostly about planking the hull and fore deck in tiny mahogany strips. Painstaking work too. I will be picking this up more in between my Sea Commander work, probably while glue/paint is drying etc. It should be nice when it’s finished.Update, I managed to add some more planking to the hull while waiting for epoxy to set on Scrumpy 3’s hull. . Some more photos attached.

More Bulkheads by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
All the bulkhead parts are made ready for assembly. I decided at this point modify CF2 and B2. B2 to enable easy access for further detailing of the cabin at a later stage and CF2 I cut out what will be the door opening into the cockpit. Each of the bulkheads had 2 x 12 mm holes drilled just below deck level for future wiring runs; they also needed support to secure them at 90 degrees so I made a number of right angle squares to support them squarely and at equal height at each side, these were secured with a temporary brass pin. The spacing at the keel was pre-determined when building the keel components, however the tops need correct spacing by dry fitting the cabin sides and just checking that each side measures the same height, finally the back end of the keel needs supporting to keep everything square. Each of the cabin sides and bulkheads can now be dismantled and reassembled with epoxy resin. NOTE at this stage only the bulkheads are epoxied to the keel, the cabin sides and CF2 are only there to ensure the bulkheads are square and correctly spaced at this stage.

Bulkhead by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Bulkhead Time to fit the B1 bulkhead, at this point I was advised (by a well-known crash tender builder, more about him later) that I should dry fit the entire front end and to chamfer the appropriate parts prior to final assembly leaving only final trimming when fitting the skins (a good call). Again keeping all components square, vertical and level by using height gauges squares etc. they are pre-drilled and temporally pinned to ensure that they fit correctly. Its then all taken apart before final assembly with epoxy and pushing the brass pins fully home and clamped where required.

Smit Nederland Model by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave M Thanks for the advice on the two part epoxy and the sanding sealer. Yes, I do plan on making a Build Blog on my Smit Nederland! I asked for advice because the kits from Dumas don't come with Glue or Painting advice! Looking forward to building the Smit Nederland! Ed

Smit Nederland Model by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ed ABS and wood can both be glued with Epoxy (two part) but white aliphatic wood glue will work just a well on wood to wood joints. Billings kits I have built in the past did tend to give advice on the glues to use. A light coat of sanding sealer works well for me. Make sure you coat both inside and out and support flat sheets to prevent warping. A Build Blog of your progress would be great! Good luck

replacing propshaft by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Chris, the boat is the Sea Commander, a boat my late father started in the 60's and I got to grips with it in 2015 but only floated it this year. Mark, I have just got in from the workshop and saw your comments, well guess what, after shortening the new shaft by an inch and running a 4mm die down the inner shaft and trimming it to suit, I had a brainwave, why don't I try to fit the new shaft inside the old tube which would solve the problem with the hole in the hull and keel, so I cut the old one to the required length and tapped the brass bush from the end, the inner diameter of the old tube was too small, so on the lathe with it and fed a drill down it from both ends, as I did not have a drill long enough, so the old tube is in place and the new shaft assy is fitted, all I have to do now is epoxy the whole set up. Mark have I measured the shaft angle correctly, using the keel as the flat line?

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good job 👍 Had a similar problem many moons ago with the bow on the upper hull of my Type 1A U Boat. Also fixed it with judicial cutting and epoxy. The original 'cut & paste' !? 😉 Following with great interest, can't wait for the next instalment. Cheers Doug 😎

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.