Once I was satisfied I had all the fairleads I needed, or might need (I put in some extras, just-in-case), It was time to permanently close up the deck. The luan plywood sub-deck had long ago been cut into 2" strips to allow it to take the deck camber and sheer. I had also painted on it's underside except where the deck framing was, so the paint wouldn't interfere with the epoxy. I got a few very nice days in October (2014) great for dealing with epoxy, and to take on this major step in the model's construction. There's a sinking feeling about this, like you've just locked your keys in the car. First I removed the mechanical decks below, cleaned out the hull, replaced a deck beam whose joint had never set right, and dabbed epoxy onto things I'd never be able to reach again. The mechanical decks were painted white. The turning blocks for the steering were epoxied in place; having been hot-glued in all these years. Now I painted epoxy on the entire underside of each strip to seal it as well as glue it to the deck beams. Working from out-board toward the center-line. I clamped the strips down, but also used copper tacks to hold it down that would be left in. In short order, the sub-deck was epoxied and nailed in place. Now the only access inside was through the hatches. All the cracks and seams on the deck were filled with polyester putty (Bondo), especially around the deck/hull joint. When this set, I sanded it, filled missed places, and sanded some more. Then a layer of 4oz cloth, left over from glassing her hull 5 years before, was laid on the sub-deck. At this point the deck was an integral part of the hull. I ordered 3/16" x 48" square bass strips to plank the spar deck. I was going to cut this from a maple board I hand, but could get what I wanted safely from the saw. I was concerned bass (lime) wouldn't be hard enough, but it's been great. As holidays and cold weather reduced the time I could spend in the shop, I made up the rest of her spars and their hardware; as well as framing up and installing the fore and aft access hatches. I also cut the deck strips to their length. Then winter came and stayed until April. Meanwhile I hemmed the rest of her sails.
After test fitting the hose ends to establish the correct lengths the hoses were trimmed to size and the fittings were then glued into the hose ends with some epoxy. On the real boat the hoses are arranged to lay on the tops of the foam tanks and they are supported on the stern coaming by a bronze hook. I formed this hook from some brass sheet so that it holds the hoses firmly one above the other, this was primed and finished in gunmetal grey and fixed to the coaming with a couple of brass rivets and a spot of epoxy. For a bit of extra security I cut some large diameter heat shrink to form some bands around the hoses to hold them together. So now the hoses are all finished and I think they look really good, I’ll probably re-polish the brass fittings and apply a light coat of lacquer to keep them nice and shiny at a later stage 😎
Here is my version. PM me if you want this and i'll send pictures and pdf with material list and detailed build instructions1/16th scale Fireboat Mast. MATERIALS LIST. Item A:- 1.6 Brass rod 45mm long. Item B:- 5mm dia brass Finial. (from dolls house shop) Item C:- 3mm Brass tube 47mm long. Item D:- 1.6mm x 4mm brass strip 64mm long. Item E:- 2 Off 3mm brass tube 68mm long. Method of build. Start by drilling Item B 1.6mm , then drill bottom 3.1mm x 2mm deep. Solder Items A,B, and C, together to form mast top. Then drill through Item B 90 degrees to mast with 1.2mmm drill for rigging line to pass through. Item D then needs shaping, by tapering on one edge only. 2mm at end to full 4mm x 26mm from end. Do this to both sides. (see sketch). Now drill centre 3.1mm and each end 1.2mm at 3mm from ends. Item E. Flatten one end to 10mm and opposite end to 8mm. Bend 10mm end to 120 degrees. Bend 8mm end to 150 degrees. Now trim 10mm end back to 5mm. Carefully radius 8mm end and then drill 2.2mm at 3mm from end. Now solder 2 x Items E to item D and locate mast top into centre hole and solder in place. The completed mast is held in place by two angle brackets which I slotted through cabin roof and glued with epoxy. These brackets need to be drilled and tapped m2. For the fixing screws 3mm from the top edge, then radius to smarten up.
While waiting for a second coat of epoxy to dry on my other model i enlarged some plans of an old Sea Hornet kit that I purchased a few days ago. I copied them 25% larger which gives length of 32 inches i then cut out the keel and bulkheads, i have only fitted them loosely for the picture. .
Hi Doug, they are from mrrcsound, available on the website, they are called tt25 transducers. Having played with these at length with model planes, I now know the hull thickness isn't enough. The thicker the material, the deeper the sound, but you lose volume. Unfortunately once epoxied on, they don't come off, until the epoxy goes brittle, which does happen as the vibrations cause this. If I try to pull them off now, they will break. I have too much volume, and not enough depth. With a plane, due to distance away from operator, you need the volume, with the boat, they don't go anywhere near as far away from the operator, so I messed up here😭 Ill turn it down a lot, see how that works out
Hi RN I made a simple L bracket from 2mm aluminium with a slot cut out for the keel and the required holes for the motor. Glued down with epoxy glue, is has work very well with the 1900kv 750 watt motor.
With the laser printer you have a problem, but unfortunately I do not have it at home, so I have to push the devices well and occasionally when I place them in the outdoor unit, I use a two-component five-minute epoxy. Somehow I have to advise. Zdeněk
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎
[Score: 9/10] 17"/2100g Water Witch Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 70mins Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Found plans in a Model Boat Magazine from England The plans where down size I used 1/8 pine strips for the hull and epoxy as sealer This model was a replicate of a Scotish fishing boat converted to pleasure crafts .
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay. https://www.modelylodi.cz/Laky-a-plnice-c11_86_2.htm😉
Just started building from the plan. Started the bottom skins today,had to do them in two parts. Finished the bottom and side skins, fitted the propshaft and rudder tubes. Just give the inside of the hull a coat of epoxy. Just fitted the brushless motor,took chance on the motor size and power. I started on the decking using 1mm ply, when that's done i intend to plank over it. Finished the planking today and started the hatch cover which will fit the cabin onto, the deck will be painted over. Started work on the wheelhouse,the plan shows the front and sides being double skined with the glazing in the centre,using 1.6mm ply for the inside and 1mm plastic(palight)for the outside. Will keep you posted on the outcome. Changed my mind on putting the plastic part with the glazing on the outside and put it on the inside instead.
Thank Doug, Martin and Vic, I have started the sanding today. It is slow progress as the varnish is hard and well stuck to the wood. The inside has already been covered with fine glass cloth and epoxy it is just not clear in the picture. I can see this job will take some time. I will keep you updated. Thanks again for the advice it was much needed. John.
Agree with your generally used methods for varnishing, but these narrow vertical planks with all their joints will never go away. They will crack if it gets hot they will crack when it's cold and damp. Ask me how I know! They all need to be bridged by a single surface. I will be using J-Cloth and epoxy on my yacht as J-Cloth is very strong and cheap as chips. The only other method is to cover the vertical planks with a single horizontal layer of veneer, but that might be difficult to cover if any compound curves have crept in at the bow due to sanding of blocks or whatever. But somehow those joints have to be covered. Filling won't work. Martin
Because Aerokits were done in ply, the sections, like a Thames Slipper Launch were all straight lines. That involves a lot of twisting, but with vertical strips that twist can be accommodated, being finished off with sanding to shape. Of course, if you view a twisted surface it will appear to be concave, but it ain't necessarily so, as Aerokits and slipper launches prove. I think that's what's happened here. The joints twixt every vertical plank will always be there, causing trouble. I would say fill the grooves, then cover in glass cloth and epoxy to give a single surface that won't crack again. I'd be inclined to do the same internally, then paint the model. Martin
Only one thunker left to do and then it's a case of getting the very back end sorted. The lines I used from an American book on yachting history seemed fine, but were awry at the last couple of sections, although somehow these didn't show, so fortunately one bulkhead was knocked out and planks have been adjusted ending in just eyework to get the shapely hull back to a suitable elegant and very slim stern. We'll get there. Drilling down to do the rudder stock will be a major job as it's the entire depth of the rear end of the boat! But nothing brass tube, epoxy and Milliput can't repair, build up, be worked into shape! Cheers, Martin