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>> Home > Tags > epoxy

epoxy
epoxy resin
epoxy
Looking for a Sea Queen by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
I have a queen I built in the 70s, a bit "tatty",fitted with an O&R 21,It has always been stored in the dry and is not soaked in oil,(engine compartment lined with epoxy)I could remove the engine and would sell it within your price range.The only problem is collection (I live in Nottinghamshire) and I am not prepared to send it as I have recently had several parcels destroyed by carriers.

Sea Queen refurbishment by onetenor Commander   Posted: 20 days ago
Just a few quickies. first of all did the drill bit hit the bone? If so it needs an x -ray as there could be bone splinters that will cause pain even after the hole has healed. Re coating boat hulls try 2 part Epoxy paint / resins which can be used with cloth like polyester resin. RN I believe Acetone and various other solvents are available in quantity off the supermarket shelf in France👍. Do you get over the border at all? Not sure but I think the OP that said this mentioned ether too.

VERNON River Police Launch by canabus Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Lads I have a Sea Commander with a D3548-1100kv,3S Lipo,60Amp ESC and a 2 blade 40mm CNC prop. I bought a Precedent Huntsman 34" a few weeks ago and may be running a 3639-1100 or a 3648-1450 instead of the D3548 motor. As for motor mounts the aluminium angle works well and I just epoxy glue it in place. Canabus

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Chris Probably easier to apply to the hull with the deck off. You should leave the deck join area clear to allow for the glue. The bottom of the deck will also benefit and I usually use a pencil to mark where the formers join and keep the coating off this area. If you are using epoxy for the coating and the joining glue this may not be a problem. Once the deck is on apply another coat over the joints to seal. If you could a build blog would be welcome and helpful to other members, please. Dave

Denatured Alcohol by octman Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
When I have got the DNA and epoxy/polyester resin sorted out and I want to coat the inside of the boat, do I just do the hull, or should I wait until the deck is on? Chris

Denatured Alcohol by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Dave, one of the advantages of epoxy that should not be discounted is that it is almost completely odourless. THat is an especial advantage in places where the winter is long, cold and snowy, and painting and epoxy-ing has to be done indoors. Roy

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Chris Always happy to share my experiences. Epoxy is basically a glue and whilst the aero boys like to use it with glass cloth to cover their wings because it bonds well to the wood and remains slightly flexible, my experience is it is dear, adds significantly to the weight, is difficult to apply evenly and has a nasty habit of running after application. We used on the large liners, having also seen the hype on U-Tube, and really struggled with the application. If I was using this as a sealing coat with or without cloth then I prefer Polyester lay up resin which is cheaper, thin and easy to apply, has controllable setting time and produces a much harder finish. Good luck with the registration, not sure I would want to get that close to HM Customs & Excise! Happy building Dave

Denatured Alcohol by octman Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I think this has got a bit off the track. I was asking about denatured alcohol, not acetone. DNA is ethanol and can be used to thin epoxy. see this You Tube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk

Denatured Alcohol by octman Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I am trying to get some of this stuff to dilute my epoxy resin with. I understand that it comes in many forms, including methylated spirits. Can anyone out there who knows these things advise me if they would all be suitable for thinning epoxy resin (Z Poxy Finishing Resin to be precise), or if there is a preferred version, and a source? If I used meths would the diluted resin be purple? Chris

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Well just got the Queen back home, it looks quite good, (big relief) as all paint and varnish has gone as well as the oil. Just stained where it had been, the epoxy I had used to stabilize the outside of the hull hasn't been affected, so tomorrow I will coat the inside to make sure that all seems are sealed before fitting the mounts for servo, motor, ESC? And radio. Then applying a coat of Hamerite smooth white. Hope to get my PC back next week then I can upload some photos. I can't decide which motor to use, 600 motor or a 6volt geared decaperm. Any thoughts would be useful. Thanks Colin.

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Might have, but it was pinned with brass pins as well, so will be sealing inside with epoxy resin, then coating the hull with eezicote and extra fine glass cloth before painting and vanishing. Well at least she's stripped for action. It must have taken years off her. (Maybe I should get the wife dipped)? Don't tell her.

Weathering by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Added the numbers and name yesterday and started the weathering process. Unlike my previous boat (Emily P) which was based on a steel hull I can't go crazy with the rusting! Fibre glass does however fade where water is consistently running so I have added some extra epoxy resin running down the sides from the scuppers and where the v doors, trawl and nets would rub. I have then used white gloss, brown fence paint and will add some green (for the slime!) This was applied with a cotton ear bud and then rubbed back with some string.

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace 😱! Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes. I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box. A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares ! For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls. The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation. An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets. For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door. I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a ‘hook tool’ from some brass wire for this purpose. The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on it’s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays. The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass ‘hook tool’ to release it from the magnets hold. So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now there’s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing! The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff. The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the 1:12 scale of my boat. His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !! Mike can be contacted at: scaleflags@outlook.com or by telephone on 01476 573331 They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet. The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find it’s own position. A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down. So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action. That’s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for it’s maiden voyage. I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process 😁 And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice 👏 😍

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads. I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin If the wood is impregnated with castor and ether you have no option other than to cutout all the affected panels back to the formers and fit replacements. You will need to add stringers to the formers so you can glue the new panels in place. Gorilla white wood glue will work well or epoxy. You can not paint over an oily surface. If you are lucky it will just be the engine bay that is affected. Please keep us posted on your progress Kind Regards Dave