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>> Home > Tags > esc

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Good plans by TheBlacksmith Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
no detail or description of plans seems like pot luck to me

Wheelhouse roof detail....and a paint problem ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Because of the curvature of the wheelhouse roof the searchlight, mast, aerial and other fittings need some shaped wedges to sit on so that they sit vertically, this is particularly important for the searchlight as it is designed to rotate. I cut and shaped some plasticard for these and when I was happy with the angles I superglued them in place on the roof and used a small amount of filler to blend them into the roof profile. Similar spacers were made for the anchor where it sits on the forward cabin roof as well. After masking off the surrounding areas I sprayed a coat of Halfords white primer on the roofs and immediately noticed that the paint ‘crazed’ very badly for some unknown reason. I had used panel wipe to clean the roof before painting and was spraying over previous coats of the same primer so this was really disappointing to see 😭 I had to leave the paint to harden for a couple of days and set about stripping it back to the base coats as much as possible and then re-masked and sprayed again….only for the same thing to happen again 😡 This was despite pre-warming the can and shaking it thoroughly for the prescribed two minutes. To cut a long story short I discovered that the new can of white primer that I had recently purchased was faulty and it was spraying considerably more solvent/carrier than pigment and this heavy overload of solvent was the cause of the problem. Halfords replaced the paint without argument but I had to wait another couple of days before I could remove the paint and start over again for the third time. Happily the replacement paint was OK, the re-spray was successful and the final gloss coat is to a reasonable finish but the whole process set me back a couple of weekends and was a very frustrating experience 😞 An isolated case I’m sure but after previously stating that Halfords paint was OK, I now reserve my judgement and remain cautious with their paint, and I now do more test sprays just in case…..

Perkasa 49 inch by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Neodym magnets are excellent for holding hatches, decks etc in place. I have just sourced a selection from ebay and bought two 10x10mm. www.web-magnets.co.uk.I had not considered using as a rescue aid but these magnets are exceptionally strong and once attached are very difficult to remove so certainly up to rescuing a model. We sail many yachts and it can be difficult to find a safe attachment without causing damage. I do hope you keep us posted on the automation of you features. On water shots are always good especially if they capture other models on the water. Dave

Planking the Hull by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thanks for the update Kevin Descriptions with pics help new and aspiring modellers to perhaps start building. Our members have a wealth of information and are very good at providing solutions or help. Dave

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

HMS Belfast by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 49"/5000g HMS Belfast Twin Propellors (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Speed 540 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Navy VR30 or Viper Marine. Trials on 40MHz then 2.4GHz DX6 ESC - Comments: Performance not yet known, still in the fitting out dock. Power is actually 2 x 6V 3Ah. ESC will probably be Graupner Navy V30R or Viper. Maybe 2 for differential control to support rudder. Long term plans for smoke (borrowed from model railway kit!) lighting and gun control. Have already bought magicians 'Flash Paper' for main battery gun flashes. Ignition using old 'out of work' glow-plugs? Any ideas welcome :-) Ship is Graupner Premium line. NOT IMPRESSED with quality of cast resin parts, lots of air bubble depressions :-/ Fair amount of rework / repaint necessary!

Graf Spee by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 58" Graf Spee Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 600 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner Navy V30R (30Amps) ESC - Comments: It's a Graupner premium line ATR! ;-/ Wanted some 'quick fun' while working on more complex constructions (HMS Hotspur H Class Destroyer 1936, 1:72 and Type IIA U26 also 1936). Didn't work out that way! On first test of motors and ESC I discovered that the shafts were so badly fitted that they were binding ;-( So back in dry dock for some hull surgery! That's why some inputs are missing above. Plan is to gradually add functions and special effects; lighting, gun controls, magicians Flash Paper for gun flashes. Maybe fired using my old glow-plugs!!?? Now I'm freshly retired I have more time for this ;-), as long as Gisela doesn't drag me off around the world too often ;-) I also have HMS Belfast from the same series (approx 1:128) also awaiting fitting out. More soon - don't hold your breath please ;-) In the pipeline is some 'Plastic Magic' with Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark all to 350 scale ca 70-80cm. Sorry been in Munich for over 30 years don't think in inches any more (except when buying mag wheels for the chariot!) Cheers, and as my German boating friends say 'Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!) = I wish you always a hand-widths water under your keel. PS How do I add a Sailing Location to the profile?? I sail on the lake in the Ostpark near me in Munich. Very convenient, right next to the Biergarten! 😎

Feathering set up by marlina2 Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
I am so pleased to see this blog as I am also in the midst of building my own "forcefull". Your build is much further advanced than mine so hopefully I may be able to pick your brain in future about the many problems that I am bound to encounter. Your drive system looks much like mine apart from I am using 2 x 540's low noise motors with built in 16:1 gearbox and the final drive being belt drive reduction giving me a maximum no load rpm of 230 on the paddle rims. I am using an action Electronics dual mixer & ESC's in tank steer mode for speed control. I don't know how it will handle exactly in this mode but I do have the option of a conventional mixer mode with a rudder servo. At the moment my paddles are not feathering, this is just for getting in the water quicker and will be replaced in time when I can access to a lathe to make the ecentrics

Various Boat Building Items Inc Motor etc. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
All items are brand new, unopened & unused. Buy 1 item or several. Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Open to all sensible offers.

Perkasa 49 inch by BOATSHED Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I used to take a rescue boat with me, A small electric boat with me and I had a piece of fishing lie about 15ft long with those small bouny balls that are about an inch in diamiter threaded along it and run it round the conked out boat. The line would go under the boat and catch round the prop or rudder the drag it back to shore. The fishing rod I take now is a telescopic one with a fixed spool reel and fly fishing line that's bright yellow and it floats. Hoping to cast over top of the boat then drag it back. I was getting quite good at it. Mainly on my brothers boat. Mine was quite reliable but did conk out sometimes.

The Hull Markings by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .

Handed props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Simple answer is yes, you need to wire the motors so the props both rotate in the correct direction. I usually use a wetted finger behind (stern) the prop to feel the wash of air when rotating in the forward direction. if you can feel it from the front (bow) side it needs the wires swapping on that motor. I suggest you also check that the tx channel is set in the normal as against reverse setting before you start as some ESCs run slower in the reverse direction. Hope this helps and if you find my post helpful please tick the like box as it helps others find the post Dave

Torpedo props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Steve It would be possible to make a silicon mould and cast with Fast Cast resin. Quite a lot of work for just two parts, and making the mould to allow the air to escape would not be easy. You could make the parts from some plastic rod fettled to shape with the blades from Litho plate cut to size and super-glued in place. Having originals to copy should enable fair replicas to be fashioned and as they are static and part hidden in a tube round the props I believe it is do-able. Good luck Dave

CLYDE PUFFER by agoodboater Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
For sale is my Clyde puffer 1/24 scale approx , 33"long and a beam of 9", f/g hull, it is similar to the Mountfleet Highlander fitted with motor and ESC also a simple smoke😁 unit , needs a little tidying up , cash on collection only, *****now sold ***

Part 2. The searchlight optics. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper. The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓 The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos. The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light. I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof. The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss. These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients. Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front. Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎