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>> Home > Tags > esc

Billings Sea King in need of TLC by AllenA Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
Walked into the boot sale this morning and saw this from 50yds. It's a Sea King needing some love and attention. She is 27.5" long with a 9" beam. Twin como motors, futaba 2ch. receiver and Etroniks Probe ESC. Along with battery and Ripmax Transmitter. I have nearly finished my Dolphin 16 and the Sea King will be the next project. I will add it to my Harbour but she may be in dry dock for a good time as i sort out the cosmetics. I've included the Dolphin in the photos. What a lucky boy! If anyone has photos or plans as to how she should look I would be grateful to see them.

arun 54 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Tug to rescue my other ships - yes 👍Lifeboat for the crew - 'ard luck 🤔 Good luck with the witches pipsteam 😉😉

Dolphin 16 (19) by AllenA Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.

46" Fireboat - what engine(s)? by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Vapour I am going with a Hobbyking L5055C-700kv- 1600Watts, 100Amp ESC and a 2 blade CNC 52 mm 1.4 pitch prop. The ESC only goes to 4S, so I am thinking of ordering a water cooled 90A ESC which goes to 6S. At present it has a 3648-1450kv-1600Watt, 100Amp ESC with a 2 blade 40mm 1.4 pitch prop, but has not been in the water with this setup. As the boat had no gear in it at purchase and that's what I had in the spare bits box.

46" Fireboat - what engine(s)? by Vapour Apprentice   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello folks. Brand new here, so go easy! I have searched but not quite found what I am after. Apologies if I've missed the obvious. Having just finished a 36" Fireboat with my son, I am now thinking about the larger 46" version. The little boat is running a Radient Reaktor motor / ESC combo which is 3000kV with a matched ESC and 2S1P LiPo battery. Performance is pretty good, although we're still ironing out some cooling issues and vibration (old model resurrected). I am going to do the big boat 'properly' so am looking for recommendations for power, ESC and batteries. I am looking for overscale performance and tend to run on choppy water with currents (i.e. rivers😁). Thanks in advance, everyone!

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Rob, make sure you video the maiden! Also, I would recommend short runs, and keep an eye on esc/motor heat etc, but I'm sure you know all this! best of luck Paul

What Gun? by cormorant Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
Further research suggests that the weapon is a 76/50 Bofors TAK76 Per Jane's, the gun was a private venture by Bofors begun in 1962, and was adapted from a 76mm/50 coast artillery gun, but modified to 3-inch (a very minor change in dimension) "because that ammunition was more commonly used by navies." The ammunition is described as a fixed cartridge weighing 11.3kg, which could mean it's not the US 3-inch/50 round, which apparently weighed 10.9 kg complete (however, I see some variation between sources). Muzzle velocity is 825m/s, nearly identical to the US round (2 m/sec difference). The turret is fully automated, fed from a motor-driven hoist to a below-deck magazine with 100 rounds. Two loaders move ammo from the magazine to the 5-round feed drum, which in turn feeds the vertical hoist. From there, a transfer arm in the turret moves the rounds to the loading tray and the rounds are then rammed home. RoF is 30 RPM. Traverse was 350º with elevation limits of -10 to +30º. Range was credited as 6.8 nautical miles (12.6 km). The turret is roughly 1.5 m high, with a penetration below decks of 2.9 m. Total mount weight was 6.5 tons. " Still can't find a 1/24 scale one!

FUSION Hawk BL 100A OPTO ESC by Flack Admiral   Posted: 11 days ago
Brand new in box with instructions. New price in excess of £120. Grab a bargain at £80

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Well just got the Queen back home, it looks quite good, (big relief) as all paint and varnish has gone as well as the oil. Just stained where it had been, the epoxy I had used to stabilize the outside of the hull hasn't been affected, so tomorrow I will coat the inside to make sure that all seems are sealed before fitting the mounts for servo, motor, ESC? And radio. Then applying a coat of Hamerite smooth white. Hope to get my PC back next week then I can upload some photos. I can't decide which motor to use, 600 motor or a 6volt geared decaperm. Any thoughts would be useful. Thanks Colin.

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Chris Mine just has a large flat ply plate over the bottom of the hull with the rx rudder servo and battery fixed in place. I use velcro for the rx and made mounting blocks for the servo. An aircraft snake connects to the rudder. The battery is in a small wooden compartment. My ESC is just below the motor mount hanging loose. You do need to strengthen the motor mount - I used lots of wood inside to make it all less pliable - the plastic is not strong enough on its own. You need to build a plinth to attach the motor high enough to attach your prop. This need to be well braced to take the thrust from the prop. Mine moves slightly and if I were to make another I would make it stronger. Mine required two small sheets of lead up front to keep it on the water at speed. Please post details of your build Dave

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace 😱! Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes. I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box. A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares ! For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls. The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation. An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets. For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door. I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a ‘hook tool’ from some brass wire for this purpose. The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on it’s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays. The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass ‘hook tool’ to release it from the magnets hold. So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now there’s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing! The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff. The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the 1:12 scale of my boat. His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !! Mike can be contacted at: or by telephone on 01476 573331 They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet. The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find it’s own position. A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down. So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action. That’s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for it’s maiden voyage. I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process 😁 And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice 👏 😍

Kingsmill mbc 10th anniversary open day by kmbcsecretary Seaman   Posted: 16 days ago
Sadly due to the weed problems we will be postponing this event to later in the year unfortunately this is out of our control due to sailing in a nature reserve we are limited to what we can do to combat this problem we hope to reschedule the event to later in the year

Servos & motor having a wobbly by EricMB Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Doug and Dave, very sorry for the radio silence, day job getting in the way! Really appreciate the input, interesting to hear about your experience with the progress of technology, I guess in using digital RX and TX setups there are different issues that arise! So, to your kind advice - I unplugged the servo Dave, and no difference, which made me think it was the motor. I disconnected the ESC (and hence the power), added a battery input to the RX and all was ok! That made me realise that the power section was the problem, confirmed by a suggestion a fellow model Boater made about checking the battery - instead of chucking out 7.2v, it was giving about 5.3v! Recharged and hey presto - problem solved! Flat battery giving out interference!! Here's the system now behaving as it it should; Thanks again for all the help and advice - very much appreciated. Regards, Eric

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Doug Progress especially with anything electronic moves at lightening speed and our PCs are almost obsolete as soon as we buy them. I suspect your sub like many of mine has kit sourced from an earlier period and I can well remember all kinds of suppression aids we used to have to use especially with our cars to suppress the interference from the ignition! I suspect it is only the modern high frequency ESCs that will have a problem, earlier kit used discrete chips that used much lower frequencies for the pulses. The original chips used became unavailable so manufacturers had to adapt to what was available. If your sub works OK I would leave well alone. Eric's problem could well be motor related but could also be from a faulty servo, my suggestion to unplug the rudder servo would eliminate this from the equation, but I am awaiting a response Sun's back but thunderstorms promised for tonight! Happy days Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Dave, I guess you're right! I obviously have more catching up to do than I thought 🤔 Re your question - if you mean my sub it has no interference problem; RX is in the bow, motors and suppression boards in the stern as in my pics. Two big 4AH 'lumps of lead' in between! I simply wondered if Eric's problem was due to interference from a cheap motor in the outboard. I have taken a couple of these apart (from inflatable boats) and the motors are pretty basic with little or no suppression. But if he's using a hi freq. ESC then chokes are probably not the solution. I that case I might go back to a simpler ESC myself! Cheers Doug 😎