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>> Home > Tags > esc

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Hector Read by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Thanks Dave, Hector Read model powered by a speed 600 brushed electric motor with an electric speed controller. This gives plenty of oomph when it comes to rescuing stranded craft large or small on the pond, which is always a challenge I can never resist.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
BTW Allen, Dave's comments re 'old motors' go in the right direction but the basic thought and measurement technique are not quite right. There should never be ANY ohm meter reading between armature coils (i.e. motor supply connections) and case! Do by all means try this, but anything less than infinity, '---' on most digital meters, means a scrap motor😡 This test really requires an insulation test using what is commonly called a Mega meter. This has a crank generator which puts high voltage (ca 1000V+😲) across the unit under test. It measures the insulation resistance in millions of Ohms, hence the name Mega! For us modellers not a particularly useful or practical test! The most common form of deterioration in old motors is cracking and flaking of the insulating varnish of the armature windings. This does not normally cause shorts or spurious measurable resistance to the case but causes internal shorts in the windings thus reducing their resistance and therefore increasing the current they draw for a given voltage applied, as Dave indicated. There are two ways you can check this, if you have a decent Ohm meter, one less, one more accurate. The less accurate is done externally by measuring across the normal motor connections and thus include the resistance of the brushes and connections. Connect the meter where you normally connect the output from the ESC. Slowly rotate the motor so you can feel the slight 'click' as the motor moves from one winding to the next (or one magnetic pole to the next if you like😉) You should see a few Ohms resistance at each pole. Value depending on the quality of the carbon brushes. Better quality brushes (more copper content) = lower resistance. Note and compare each 'pole' reading. If one 'pole' reading is significantly lower than the others then that winding has an internal short😡 The motor may overheat in that winding, depending on how many wires are affected, and fail eventually. The more accurate method is to dismantle the motor and measure the winding resistances directly at the commutator, i.e. without the brushes in circuit. But this is only useful for nuts like me 😁 as in my 50 year old Taycol Target renovation. I was lucky no shorts and all windings same resistance + or - a gnat's whatsit!😊 Sooooo, to cut a long story sideways😉I think it's very unlikely your motor has any internal problems. I recently found one of the ancient Mabuchis I originally fitted in my HMS Hotspur destroyer 51 years ago, it still clattered along, bearings shot but electrically still OK 😊 Just take what you've got now down to the lake and give her a Go. If she looks right then she most probably is! As my German colleagues would say "Always a hand's width of water under your keel". Cheers Doug 😎 PS: "But trust me on the sunscreen" 😁

MV TEAKWOOD by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Of course it does Dave, it's a fine model as I said. I've been impressed all through this build blog 👍 and have said so. Just a touch of humour to help the world go round 😉 Particularly as RH is in Canada and not Australia. I'm very grateful to some of our Australian friends, as I have posted here. Especially Canabus in Hobart who promptly sent me a complete parts list including Hobbyking order numbers when I asked advice on a brushless, prop, ESC setup for my Sea Scout renovation. All now safely installed. Cheers Doug 😎

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Veeery interestink!😉 I always thought that a motor's power rating referred to it's useful power output, not what it scoffs when it is stalled 🤔 Sure 40 x 7.2 = 288W but your full ahead current and watts measurement says the supply voltage was approx 6V. Interestingly some history research tells me that the Elke was originally intended for and supplied with a direct drive 280 motor. Graupner still lists it as such, albeit as 'Sold out' 🤔 Several German build blogs on the net confirm this, although others have also tried different motors, including Decaperms. Kit reviews (mostly on German sites) also mention that she was 'pretty quick' with the 280 motor. Can well imagine, I have 2 x 285s in my 107cm U-25 and she goes like a bat out of hell. 😉 Allen; your result of 40W + and 6.77Amps tells me the motor was running on roughly 6V. (40/6.77=5.91) If you really had a 7.2V pack connected it's got a duff cell (collapsing under load or short circuit) 😲 Carefully strip the pack, isolate the duff cell using a digital voltmeter, cut it out and send it to the great recycling nirvana! Then you have a powerful RX battery😉 Glad to hear you fitted the fuse👍 Leave the rest alone for now and sail her and see. I believe you will be more than happy with the performance and since the ESC is over dimensioned it should have no problems. Happy sailing, Doug 😎

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Dave, Can't find the motor I have on the Mabuchi site. My guess it is quite old. I think it is a TD 224 that I picked up at a boot sale from a model plane enthusiast. So far I have run it on a 7.2v nimh so will change to 6v asap. I gave it full throttle in the bath and no sign of heat or fumes in battery, motor or esc. Thanks for the help. As you say a quick turn around the lake is in order. The fuse advised by Doug is now installed.

Billings Sea King by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Allen, I heartily agree Chinese specs should be taken with a generous pinch of salt 😉 But even a quoted 'peak 320A' ESC should be able to handle 100-150A which is probably 10 to 12 times what you will need for the little Mabuchi. Your Wattmeter is almost identical to mine👍 Connect battery to the 'Source' wires and 'Load' to the ESC and away you go. Do the test with the prop / motor under load, i.e. in the domestic test tank! Don't forget the Souwester!! 😉 I'll be surprised if the full ahead test is more than 10A. Have fun, Doug 😎 Primroses and daffs are only out in the Garden centres and supermarkets here, be another 4 weeks or so before much happens outside. 🤔Although my Winter Jasmine is still bravely blooming bright yellow 😊

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Thanks Doug. I am not sure I would rely on my Chinese friends' measurement of amps but I have used a few of the ESCs and they haven't blown up yet. How would I go about testing the amperage? I have my little unused Watt Meter. Do I, simply, connect it between the battery and the ESC and take the reading while running the motor? Sorry to hear about the snow, we are just moving into Spring. Primroses and Daffodils are out and days are lengthening. At last.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Wow! So much done in 3 weeks! Brilliant 👍 Look forward to the Maiden report. Love the woodwork, nice job. Inspiration for my Danish cutter refit😉 Would have thought that a 320A ESC is a bit overkill for a 'plodder'!? But, if was 'in the box' ... I'll be putting a 10A mTronik in my cutter, with a modified Taycol Target, ca 6A max (I hope!) Nothing doing here at the moment, everything frozen over and it's snowing again 😡 Cheers Doug 😎

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Elke HF 408 now refitted. Running on a Mabuchi motor geared 2:1, 2mm shaft and 30mm 3 blade propeller. Still fiddling with the ballast but almost ready to sail. Yet to find a suitable fishing net to suit 1:36 scale. Control is via a 40mhz Hitec Ranger 3, Acoms receiver and Chinese 320A fan cooled ESC. As they would say in Cardiff she looks tidy. Many thanks to Tica/BRCarsten for photos of the plans.

Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Ed, I thought the brass looked a bit flimsy in your first pic of it🤔 I would be tempted to replace it with something thicker and slot it into the keel, fixed with epoxy glue. As I did on my U25 after discovering, by research in the Deutsches Museum here in Munich, that Krick had got it all wrong! Even the rudder shape was wrong, I corrected it to original drawings found in the museum. Rudder is brass with the stock slit as Colin suggested and soldered using my 50W iron as previously described. 😊 Cheers Doug PS Shaft struts were added as well, soldered to the tubes the same way. PPS original red😡plastic props are due for replacement by Rabeosch brass!

Prop shaft bearing by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Prop shaft bearing I purchased a standard propshaft with Phosphor bronze bearings again from a well-known supplier, however I had also fancied a Raboesch type with a bearing at the motor end however at £30 plus think again. So I researched the bearing type and found at £2.50 each it was worth a go at making my own so quick sketch and an order placed from Modelfixings.com. A simple piece of machining and the part was made. A simple enough job to remove the existing bearing and slide on the new housing and it made a significant difference to the “feel” of the shaft when rotated. I also made a simple collar to retain the shaft in the hosing.

Hovercraft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
As requested I have obtained some pics from Brian Clewes's Hovercraft. The motors are 900 Kv with 80 amp Escs the lift fan is a 7 blade ducted fan, the thrust prop is a 12in x7in cut down to 10in. Battery is 14.8v 5000Ma.

Going brushless after all! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I use two Turnigy 2830 750kv brushless 35amp car type escs 11.1v Lipo and 30mm brass props. Glad to hear you are using a wattmeter to check the loading.

Going brushless after all! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I’ve decided to go brushless instead of brushed with a view to adding brushless at a later date. I had a turnigy motor and Hobbyking ESC sat in the spares box and have ordered another pair. Will run this on 2S lipo to start with and go 3s if needed, depending on the watt meter results?