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>> Home > Tags > esc

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A return to the hobby! by J. Barry Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 hours ago
I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a mtroniks 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any advice would be appreciated!

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

Ashes the scratch built Motor Torpedo Boat by Sakibian Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
I found this hull at thingiverse last year. I printed the hull from a local shop and rest was handmade. Firstly I bought a 2426 4200kv brushless 2-3s which was too powerful and too heavy for the boat size. The length is 38cm. And the 30Amp esc was also too big for it's size. After that I tried small 180 brushed motor with 20A brushed esc w/brake. It was perfect (still it's heavy😂). The bridge and deck is made by 1.75mm pvc,torpedos are made of wooden pencil. Small battery space takes a 2s 500mah lipo. 30mm 3blade propeller. YouTube video link is here: https://youtu.be/KZdmZ8_Z0IE

USCG POINT GLAS by Sakibian Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Superb work. 🤗🤗 running both the motors by a single esc?

Search light by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks for the super description, it looks very professional, can't wait to see it working. Cheers Colin.

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Pete, Basically yes. There are some other tricks with twin screws, not least engine assistance using a twin ESC with rudder mixer. Also the screw rotation makes a slight difference, and the rudders are usually slightly offset from the shafts, depending on the screw rotation. Are yours turning outwards or inwards? Referred to the top of the screw looking from aft while going forward. Cheers, Doug

Tarpon hardware help by Gordon-B Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Need help in selecting and matching motor, battery, ESC, prop etc. for my 1958 Tarpon scratch built from MM 494 plan. I am years out of date with the hobby and a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing! I have purchased a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) and an Mtroniks Speed M600 12 Volt. I also purchased the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC . Please advise if I am on the right track and which motor to use. Also need help on prop and battery selection. Thank you, Gordon

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Will need to put this on hold for a bit as I have just discovered a guy working in the next industrial unit to mine is into boating and has offered to give me a motor and ESC that he has 'outgrown'. In the mean time I need to replace the propshaft as it is not man enough plus a metal U/J. Bit of hacking required.

just need cable (wire)... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Why mess about!? One on each wheel and one for the power steering. Ventilated double disc brakes all round of course 😁 Synchronised ESCs coupled to fore and aft cameras for TCAS (Traffic Collision Avoidance System). I think we could probably dispense with the Ground Proximity Warning though. On the other hand, when I think of Neville's Barrel Roll out of his scooter ...... 😁😉 BTW; As a friend of the Professor Hawking Foundation I received notification at the weekend that some of his personal effects will be auctioned soon, including some of his iconic wheelchairs. Proceeds go to studying the debilitating illness he suffered from. Anyone interested I'll dig out the link. All the best folks, Doug 😎 More power to your wheels John; 'Full Ahead Both'👍

electrical connectors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi TJ, 1: "grouper connectors"!? Do you mean Graupner? Pics please. 2: What the heck are 'Halford connectors'? Bullet connectors perhaps? 3: Why two types of connectors at all? 4: Fuse; I actually recommended a fuse between the drive battery and the ESCs to protect both the ESCs and the motors. The switch is normally for the RX only, unless you can find a high current switch which isn't too big to put between the drive battery and the ESCs. Fuse for the RX supply is not normally necessary, especially if a BEC supply is used. With a separate RX battery maximum a 2A fuse. The RX takes only a few milliamps BUT each decent size servo will take up to 500mA. So 2A will do for up to 4 servos. Which motors by the way? Odd that they have different connectors😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

Brushless motors (again) by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
depending upon the type of motor cooling it can be a problem. Most brushless motors are out runners so the case rotates! In runners are usually for higher speed applications (or driving a gearbox). If you have an idea as to the size of IC engine the boat was intended to have then this list may be a help .049 or .051 = 100 watts 0.10 = 200 watts 0.15 = 300 watts 0.25 = 500 watts 0.32 = 640 watts 0.40 = 800 watts 0.45 = 900 watts 0.51 = 1020 watts 0.61 = 1220 watts 0.75 = 1500 watts 0.91 = 1820 watts Since Watts are Volts * Amps ( I know this is not accurate for a reactive load like an electric motor but its a rule of thumb) This gives you a ball park next point is the KV ( revs per volt) of a motor. The higher the KV the smaller the prop. Finally buy a Watt meter they are not expensive and give you a chance to " fine tune" a setup. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT08-RC-150A-Hight-Precision-Watt... Car ESCs ( usually) have a reverse function while the airplane versions do not. They are generally cheaper than boat specific ESCs.

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Any specific reason you refer to a 'car' ESC? What size (dia.) shaft should I use? Will I need to cool that motor? Cheers Steve

Brushless motors (again) by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Steve I started with the Hobbyking 3639-1100 kv in my Huntsman with a 2 blade 40mm prop, 3S 5800mah Lipo and a car 60 Amp ESC. Upgraded to the 100Amp car ESC and a straight change over to the 3648-1450 motor. All from Hobbyking. Good units and have no problems. Also a the price will not break the bank book!!! Note, change the uni-joint to metal as the plastic ones will not handle the power and break. Canabus

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi all, I might have motors, ESCs RC gear, even LiPos and Nimh packs, but I ain't got the heavyish wire to hook it all up and although I had a gander on ebay, all I could find was made up cables, with invariably the wrong plugs on the ends, but I have bullets male and female coming out of my earoles, so just need....wire! Any idea who flogs the odd metre of the stuff that can be soldered into bullets? Martin

Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve