Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
January 2019: 10 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 23 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (16)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > esc

esc
esc
Aeronaut Pilot Boat by RonW Seaman   Posted: 38 minutes ago
Steve. Since my last message, I have made progress, purchased a kit from Cornwall Models. Started building hull just before Xmas and as you mentioned, you need to have patience to get it right. Before going to far, I am planning how to set up the Motors and the Speed controller. I have got a Viper Marine 25 ESC and 2 Motors (380's). Looking back at some photos of yours, it looks as you have 2 Speed Controllers. I am having problems in getting the ESC to talk to the 2 Motors. Do I need to have a second ESC to operate the 2 Motors? How would this be set up through my Hobbyking Controller? Would appreciate some clarity of my thinking. Best Wishes. Ron👍😁

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Dave. The boat won't be finished in time for the show but it will be there anyway. The kit is made by Vintage Model Works not VMB See here: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 Go right to the bottom of the page. They've not got around to doing a full description yet....I expect soon though. Give Mike Cummings a call for more details. Rob.

Slow going ... by BW3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
After building the mine laying rails I then purchased scale German mines , only to find out that they are 4mm wider than the rails on the boat, ...what to do , cut the mines (8) down and rework the base and wheels to fit the boats rails or move the rails wider ..... moving the rails ... slow going , found that the motors I have are more aircraft/drone use per the esc, , no reverse .... Hobbyking does have esc that will work , still need a couple of servos and a radio , just not sure if a 6 Chanel land/ boat radio or get a large channel stick radio would be better ... as always $$$$ is an issue . Work on the messy table as I fit cut and replace fittings and supports ... Smooth sailing to all... Bill G

ST200 info by Dave J Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
A mold of the St200 raf rescue boat was made by Neil Howard Pritchard from fleetwood who subsequently gave away to Steve Tranter of Model Boat bits....Alas Steve sold it on to a chap who he beleives to be from the Midlands who was going to use the hulls for Kids ready to run boats at his club and lived around an hour from his home in Telford.Now this Mold must be somewhere if anyone knows of it's whereabouts or any info leading to finding it As I would like to produce a kit of this Model could you please contact me ALL INFO will be treated in confidence...Thanks

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand. Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges. Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout. Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop. A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power. Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge. Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat. This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface. Canabus

Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). It's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) If you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

de Mist Naval Tug by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Tertius, Looks like the closest you're gonna get is one of her sister ships; the FC Sturrock. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Marine-P... There was a build article of using these plans to build the JR More in Model Boats in 2012. https://www.modelboats.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=16223... Another possible source https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/f-c-sturrock-plan-mm148... The guy who built it (Ralph Wilmot) also described it on this site back then. Cheers, Doug 😎

Decks & hatches. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Because I need access to the wiring at both ends of the boat I formed the framework of an opening at the bow to make the dummy hatch into a real hatch. In a similar way a hatch was formed in the rear deck which will give me access to the wiring, rudder servo and the ESC cooling. It’s going to be quite tight to get all that into the cavity under the rear deck but I’ve done a test fit and it will all go in but will involve some ‘keyhole surgery’ through the rear hatch opening when I get to the stage of installing all of the running gear…🤓. Both of these decks were glued and pinned in place and some packing tape used to pull the decks firmly onto the frames. The side decks were also trimmed for best fit and secured in the same way and when all was dry and set a small hand plane was used to trim them flush to the hull sides. The next stage will be to fit the balsawood blocks at the bow and shape them to the hull…..it’s the tricky bit I’ve not been looking forward to…😟

Electronics,wiring by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
My batteries arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the batteries for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe

All hooked up, nowt happens... by steve-d Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Bit more info. The donor has come back with some basic instructions for the ESC but I already have more than that from my searches. He also lent me a program 'Card' which is very easy to use and seems to confirm that I have a very basic ESC. The card has 12 levels of settings on the instructions but the ESC only recognises 4 items and then within each item does not have all the setting levels. Have set it best I can for now but will go find me a better ESC later. Steve

internet sales by RobbieMcKennan Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
I would much prefer to purchase the items I want in a local shop, be able to gain some expert advice and look before I buy, sadly the nearest shop only has a very limited stock and the owner admits he knows little about model boats, railways being his thing. To find a specialist shop entails a round trip of 126 miles which makes buying on line far more attractive, but this has frequently meant that when the item has arrived (often after weeks of delay as it has come direct from China) it is the wrong size, not as described or there are no understandable instructions. Not sure what the answer is, perhaps moving near to a big city would help.

internet sales by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Keith, not sure I agree, I have a local model shop and the difference between online and in shop as a total experience is not that different. On line, although I do use it can have problems when a purchase goes wrong and has to be returned or is not as described, whereas in shop you can try out things discuss with experts and return things if they go wrong. I have found prices when compared, are sometimes not that different when you factor in postage plus time delay. I do appreciate I have the facility of a fantastic shop - The Leeds Model Shop PS I have no commercial connection to this company. other than spending a lot of money there.

internet sales by keithtindley Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
I have been reading about how the high street shops are suffering in regards to sales.I wish to plead guilty as i purchase most of my model boat kits and parts online ! The shop keepers have high rates and running costs etc when compared to some online retailers .I purchased online a 4 channel transmitter,receiver and 30amp esc from china for around £40 as this would cost double from a uk retailer its no wonder there are very few model shops left but as an Oap i look after the pennies.All the chinese parts are excellent and work well. I would prefer to buy local and enjoy a walk around a well stocked shop but difference in local retail prices and imported items is now too much.Model shops of my youth are sorely missed.

Crack in seam Repaired! by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Ed, I have the plastic hull. I used a strip of fiberglass per instructions and never have had a leak issue. At the time I did this, about 4 years ago, I was doing a lot of fiberglass work so I had the proper supplies. Adheres to plastic hull well. My current build is a Springer Tug Rescue Vessel, I am hoping to get the plywood hull sealed only with paint. We will see... Joe