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46" RAF Crash/Fire Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £300 for the lot – Don’t miss this great opportunity Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way It is also possible to ship by UPS Courier fully insured for £30. Bargain at £300 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £265.
Hi Sonar I suggest you try maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/. Look under components/capacitors and you want the second page ceramic capacitors 0.1uf. If you have a local outlet it will be quicker. You do not need a dual ESC two identical ESC's is the way to go. If you are considering Mtronik look at http://www.mtroniks.net/cat/ex -demo I have used several of their ESC's and they work well. The ex-demo refers to ESC's that have been tested to spec, so you do know that they will work. Dave
I have upgrade my Palm Beach to run BL 28mm Kehrer Jet Motor: BL Roxxy 3656-06 1800KV with watercooling ESC: Water cooled Aquastar 120A. Battery: 2 pcs. Lipo 3S 25C 3700mA for balance and weight Palm Beach from Billing Boat on it's first test at Vallensbæk Modelskibs Klub water https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=8qBwleXQQ3E Regards Carsten
Hi Sonar, Why not try two Mtroniks Viper Marine ESC! http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk/acatalog/mtroniks-viper2 5.html Or http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk/acatalog/electronize-FR3 0HX.html Both ESC's Available from Cornwall Model Boats, Just an idea Ed
I have used this type of motor and they work well. If you are after torque then a five pole motor will give more. You are running at excess voltage so they will exhibit some stress if run at full power for any length of time. You should measure the current at 12v to see what is being drawn, I believe mine when connected and running free used to draw about 2.5 amps on 12v. It will be considerably more under load. I used three 0.1 uF capacitors across the terminals and case as they will spark at the higher voltage. Do also make sure that all your (dirty) power wiring is well clear of any servo wires and the rx and aerial. They can be quite current hungry and I used an Electronize ESC on each motor. Any good 20/25 amp ESC will be suitable but if you are using two and they have a built in ESC you need to remove the red (+ve) wire from one ESC lead to the Rx. Good luck and please post details of your final choice and experience. Dave
I was looking at these as motors. using 12 volts. 3 - pole electric motor with integral cooling fan and high quality carbon brushes. Two flux rings offering high torque motor. Originally specified for Black and Decker power tools, these motors are of the highest quality and recognised as one of the most useful model motors currently available . Suitable for 6 - 12 volt applications. No Load speeds approx. 4.8V 1.7A 8500 RPM 6V 1.9A 12000 RPM 7.2V 1.9A 13500 RPM 9V 2A 20000 RPM Dimensions: L65mm, D36mm, Shaft diameter 3.2mm Off load Current: 1.57A
If brushless no you can't. If they are brushed motors it's possible but they need to be matched closely otherwise one will run faster than the other. Ideally you need to try the motors side by side measuring the current drawn and speed. If you have a local supplier with several motors available this may be possible but not on-line. The ESC will need to be able to supply (ideally) double the stall current of both motors. If this is not on the label with the motor you can connect one of them to your chosen battery with an ammeter in series and briefly grip the shaft between two pieces of wood and stop the motor. The reading when stopped is the stall current but this should be for a max of 1 second to avoid damaging the motor. Multiply this reading by four and that is the max amperage for the ESC. It may be cheaper to buy two ESC's and use a Y lead to connect to a single Rx channel. This will also lessen the effect of using two identical but possibly mismatched motors. Hope this helps Dave
The German model of fire boats. Hull with plankováním-wood, fiberglass superstructure. Drive 2 pieces motru 400 with gear ratio 1: 3, used customized truck from washer pump and powered by the 400 system. Complete illuminated flagpole, lights, cabin space and marker lights. Lifting the fire escape personally manufactured servo. Two functional water cannons. Batteries 2 pcs NiCd 3000 mA
It may be a transmitter/receiver problem or it may be in your drive setup that rears its ugly head once your on the water and your motor is under load. I had a similar problem with a twin motor setup which was fine out of the water but after 10 mins in the water I would lose drive to one or both props or one would slow down and just go round in circles (very embarrassing). I had no problem with radio setup so it had to be in the drive chain. I ended up changing both motors for ones with more armature poles, higher torque output and a different gear ratio. It also highlighted a problem with my first choice of battery which quite frankly were pants and used to produce similar symptoms as you describe. I now use Lipo power packs, they do have disadvantages but you can not knock the power to weight ratio. The main problem I was having appeared to be down to the 3 pole motors that were fine until they were under load, this caused the motors to overheat which in turn increases the current drain on the battery's, the net result is the motor starts to arch across the commutator and effectively becomes a dead short which in turn shuts down your ESC's or drains your battery's very quickly. As you probably know if this was to happen with Lipo's there would be no need for a smoke generator! Of course this only applies to brushed motors if you are using a brush-less motor then it will probably not help you.