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Dave M is right, but, if you have the 46" hull at slow speeds you might find a lack of cooling, due to the long distance to the motor's, a pump will cure this, but, look for a low watt pump, 10 L PM will be fine. I like my outflow at the stern as the exhaust but it can be masked with the propwash Mark
I have forsale (2) COMPLETE MERCRUISER HP500 540 BULLDOG MOTORS - ready to drop-in - carb to pan, includes Mercruiser Offshore Racing exhaust, stainless risers, ALL brackets, original packing slips, manuals etc. These were purchased as 'back-up' motors for a 35 Fountain and were never used. $25K for everything BRAND NEW - BRAND NEW - NEVER FIRED.
The hobby doesn't have to cost the earth I made some ladders from welding brass filler wire, and an exhaust outlet from a draw knob I found whilst walking to the shops. Also done some additional planking using stirrer sticks from costa fortune coffee shop. (My son grabbed me a hand full enough for a life time's modelling).
Hi John, there seems to be a market for the 'one way' cardboard Rapiers motors, so why not for a reloadable Jetex? Yep, I remember my Hunter gliding like a brick as well 😡 For the glider I only had the 50s, but the US version with the domed exhaust. Seemed to concentrate the thrust. You may be right about meeting 😉 a few Triple Xs or similar would probably also get demolished in the process! Re Ether, probably from the Apotheke (Chemist) not the DIY shop. But I have no need for it, or do I? Think we'll get told off for hijacking this thread!!🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.
Hi Dave, glad you found the pics useful, that's what we are all here for n'est ce pas? 😉 may have a few more detail pics in the archive, will have a rummage later. The two 'black boxes' are 'ready ammunition' drums for the Browning 50 cal MGs. You can see them again in pic 14. They sit on an equipment box in front of the cabin, cos on this version there is an extra single 50 cal mounted on the port corner of the cabin. See pic 23!! The one after the starboard prop pic. The penultimate pic shows the MG in detail from the rear - Operator's PoV. The silencers (mufflers in American) have a simple butterfly flap valve to deflect the exhaust into the silencer box with an underwater outlet. BTW: the actuators are missing🤔 They were a simple rod mechanism actuated from the stern deck. Still looking for detail pics! Maybe we could figure out a way of coupling them to a motor sound module for 'Whisper Mode'?? Bit small to see when out on the pond though! Cleaning the glasses helped the eyesight a bit😉 straightening out the crossed eyes and retraining the brain took a little longer 🤔 happy building and exciting but safe sailing, cheers Doug 😎
I presume its a single cylinder single acting engine in which case have you tried an exhaust throttle? A simple lever pivoted at one end which can partially cover the exhaust port. It may seem a bit strange but if steam cannot get out there is less room for fresh to get in while keeping the full boiler pressure to move the piston. If your engine has an exhaust stub then a butterfly or slide valve across that .
I use a hood unit like you would find in your kitchen over your stove to exhaust fumes, soldering soot, fine particles too. It is vented to the outside. Two stagelight and variable speed van. I got this unit from a Recycle store in Canada they go various names. Other than this, there are dust extraction units such as found in wood shops. Festo has small units as do stores that sell Turning & Lathe equipment.
Not an expert on this but I think the usual,(easiest) way is via a water pickup behind the prop and then exhausted though the side or whereever looks right. I have heard of motors or ESC's being fitted with temperature sensors that turn on a pump if the heat starts to build up. I think most pumps will only work for a short period at a time. Chris
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁
Doug: I enormeously appreciate all of your advises that everyone has given me in this place including yours. Maybe because I come from another culture (Cuban) very much different from yours, sometimes I have said or posted something that to you, it might not make any sense. I'm sorry, I'll try better next time. Giving / receiving?: The wisest man who ever lived said: “There is more happiness in giving than in receiving.” Do you believe in this principle? If so, then perhaps you have wondered what kind of giving is the most valuable. What kind of giving really produces that deep sense of happiness that eclipses receiving? or 'never exhaust' : v. ex·haust·ed, ex·haust·ing, ex·hausts v.tr. 1. To make extremely weary; wear out. See Synonyms at tire1. 2. a. To remove a resource from; deplete: tobacco crops that exhausted the soil of nutrients. b. To use up completely: a costly project that exhausted our funds. See Synonyms at deplete. 3. To discuss or treat completely; cover thoroughly: exhaust a topic. Julian😎 "There is more happiness in giving than there is in receiving."