Re that jacket. It may be easier to shift than you think. It looks as though there are soldered over screws round the top.If you can remove them the jacket might just prise off. The exhaust stubs just unclamp.If you can get that off you may then be able to see what motor you have. I see a likeness to one of the E.D. 1:49s👍👍 P.S. Colin can you tell me the proportions of diesel and Methanol you used please ? I'd like to try it for myself. What gave you rise to think it would work? I'm really fascinated by this. Regards John👍🤔
Usually diesels don't throttle reliably as if left ticking over or even running slow they cooled to the point where they'd still run but not pick up to accelerate. Except the superb ED Super Hunter 3.5cc, which never went off a 2 stoke even when slowed, unlike all other small engines. It had a throttle in the exhaust right up next to the exhaust port and was a superbly controllable engine. Never could get hold of one. Frankly I'm astonished you could get anything out of such a mess of an engine, but congrats and good luck with it. Martin
Fantastic stuff, Colin. If you can get that ancient engine to run on diesel from your car plus Methanol, you could get that kitchen nozzle going! Where did you just get some methanol from? I'd say the engine is something like an old ED Competition Special or similar with a very home made water jacket and even more home made exhaust wrapper, requiring tubes to be added to the 2 stubs and led to the stern or either side. Doug's yer man for anything lecktrickal. Is there actually anything of the original RC in there apart from that superb kitchen nozzle affair, which deserves to be preserved all on it's own. Control will have been vestigial at best as the engine has no throttle and the nozzle arrangement will not have had any level of proportionality to it. It will, at best, have been push the button and see where the boat ended up, knowing it could, at a a pinch, be brought back to where it started. At one time all RC was like that. My own REP set was left,centre, right, centre, etc. A wonderful throwback that must be preserved. I wish my local junk shops had stuff like that! Cheers, Martin
So far, only checked the engine, it ran using a little diesel from my car mixed with a few drips of methanol. Throttle spring broke and the flames from the exhaust were about 4 inches long but it sounds healthy enough. As for the radio gear I'm afraid I don't have a clue. Have managed to get the rudder nozzle gear to move using 6 volt battery, but all the connecting wires are missing. Lots of wood inside that needs attention, seems a bit too soft. Cheers Colin.
Pictures Rubbing down hull, Close ups of hull repairs Drill holes in transom for the exhaust pipes (water cooling outlets). Added spray rail to side of hull. Have found that I am having bad reactions to the fumes from Gorilla Glue.
Yesterday at Haydock show was a Stalwart.this was a very well made model with loads of detail brill. If by chance the owner reads this you were right they are the exhaust pipes there are fans under your spare wheel that cool the engine. Making a lovely heater.
If you want it to look like metal, use metal. That alclad is OK, but still looks like paint to me and having to do it in black first (and that coat has to be perfect apparently) is too much of a faff for me. Hammer, as you can see from the response (or lack of it) taking more pictures (never easy for my shit camera) would hardly be warranted and the description says it all really. I have a few more to take, or rather the wife can take em with her Klevafone for me. Filler and cap, exhaust outlet and windscreen supports have been added. Just the bear paw vent to go when I get a bit of 1/8th" through the post. I have 1/8th", but it's that horrible yellow gooey stuff, so I've splashed out on a small bit of CZ120, hard brass. Also called leaded, silicon or engravers' brass. MUCH better to cut and shape. The equivalent for rod, strip and section is CZ 121, extruded. These will all be available to buy once my chum has cast them in white metal and then you just have to burnish with a crewel needle (darning) and you have chrome (lacquer to taste). Martin
So, having had a few days off during the week when "The Boss" has been at work has given me enough hours to finish The Waveney off! Its been a hard week of making the small bits n bobs from scratch using a combination of balsa, carbon rod, brass rod, plastic tube, plastic sheet etc to make the radar array, antenna mast, extra cockpit details ect. The deck winch was made from large Servo output discs! The RNLI flag printed off Google! This has been followed by alot of detail painting and laquering. Anyway, I think I have just about exhausted as much detail as can be had at this scale and and happy to call completion! Only job to do now is get it in the Hot Tub and add the 2 Kg of ballast to get her on the waterline. On water photos and video to follow in the last update on this thread! as for next projects? I have the Aeronaut Pilot boat sat in the pile and the Fairy huntress 23 plan and wood pack on route from Sarik Hobbies!
Correct Martin, three 12-cylinder 1,500 horsepower (1,100 kW) Packard gasoline engines! Diesels (especially digital diesels) will sound ALL WRONG! Something like 3 Marine Merlins might get close😉 Maybe there's a sound bite for those somewhere!? Diesels were never used for such boats as they would have been too noisy (rattly!) for the 'Whisper' mode, even with exhaust muffler flaps closed. Masterfixer: what size / weight is your boat? The 33" or 40" version? What motors are in it now? Cheers, Doug 😎
Engine room layout. A very tight fit, will be challenging to operate. The servo for regulator control will be under the forward saloon stairs. There is a bolt into the regulator through the baulkhead. Silicone pipe joining the exhaust copper, exiting up what on original, was the safety valve exit. Normal model practice is for exhaust inside the funnel. I have found this can but the flame out, when excess water runs down into fire tube. True steam out the funnel looks good but only shows on cold days. The copper steam feed pipes need connections made, & lagged. The brass circle will be the oiler. Gas pipe to make. When that is finished it will be test time on the bench. Sh*t or bust😱😱
Each to his own Martin, 👍 The functions I listed can also be easily translated to the merchant marine etc; cranes, davits, NAV radars etc. But I know you'll never build anything like that. A chaque un a son goût! 😉 I just like to try a few different types of ships! And of course for me half the fun is getting the function to work in the first place 😁 BTW: I also started as a 'Free sailor' but always had ambitions which the pocket money then couldn't support! Many many thanks for your offer to make a shaft which I'll gladly take you up on👍 My normally inexhaustible patience is exhausted 😡 Total length required is 10cm, thread length 1.5cm please. That gives me room for the thread reducer and a lock nut. Now I can concentrate on the mount for the Target to get the height correct for the gears I need to use to get down to the very low mounted shaft. Good luck with the service guy, if all else fails I'll gladly have a look for you - no promises though! Will PM you now. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: think I'll stick to machining brass only in future😉
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin
Haverlock, soldering per se isn't a problem, I use jigs all the time to save burning or getting too much solder on things (1/43rd scale exhaust manifolds for F1 cars for instance), but I was just wondering if there was a problem with big hole, small wire, kinda thing. Thanks for the tips. Doug, I'll take a pic later and send it along with the leads. There are several, but nothing with a 4mm plug on the end! I wish I'd scrolled along a bit more on the listings and found the screw on plugs! Cheers, Martin