Each to his own Martin, 👍 The functions I listed can also be easily translated to the merchant marine etc; cranes, davits, NAV radars etc. But I know you'll never build anything like that. A chaque un a son goût! 😉 I just like to try a few different types of ships! And of course for me half the fun is getting the function to work in the first place 😁 BTW: I also started as a 'Free sailor' but always had ambitions which the pocket money then couldn't support! Many many thanks for your offer to make a shaft which I'll gladly take you up on👍 My normally inexhaustible patience is exhausted 😡 Total length required is 10cm, thread length 1.5cm please. That gives me room for the thread reducer and a lock nut. Now I can concentrate on the mount for the Target to get the height correct for the gears I need to use to get down to the very low mounted shaft. Good luck with the service guy, if all else fails I'll gladly have a look for you - no promises though! Will PM you now. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: think I'll stick to machining brass only in future😉
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin
Haverlock, soldering per se isn't a problem, I use jigs all the time to save burning or getting too much solder on things (1/43rd scale exhaust manifolds for F1 cars for instance), but I was just wondering if there was a problem with big hole, small wire, kinda thing. Thanks for the tips. Doug, I'll take a pic later and send it along with the leads. There are several, but nothing with a 4mm plug on the end! I wish I'd scrolled along a bit more on the listings and found the screw on plugs! Cheers, Martin
Dropping down aft from the boat deck are the tow hooks, why there are two hooks, I have no idea, but that's what is shown on the drawing. Taking the dimensions from the drawing the main part was made up of plasticard and bits of brass tube, the two hooks were made from brass sheet and soldered together, the hoop that these run on goes through the superstructure and is fastened with nuts on the inside. To the side of the tow hooks is an exhaust with silencer, this was made out of aluminium on the lathe with bits of brass tube, also on this platform are two coal hatches, again made out of plasticard and wood with painted staples as handles.
Thanks for your support gents, but I'm too old to kick too much arse these days. The Sea otter I'm not completely sure of, but the Super Hunter 3 1/2 cc,. was indeed a boat only motor and had a throttle on the exhaust rather than the inlet and the result was that it never came off the 2 stroke, so sounded very strange. But it was incredibly responsive and was demonstrated to an appreciative crowd at one of the race course big shows nearish London. Can't say which as I don't do nags, but on the temporary pond in a typical -for -the -time flattie boat, it was VERY impressive for a diesel and started easily too.....Kempton Park, methinks. All ED engines look like they mean business and run really well. We'll be making our own fuel again for lack of supply. Always used to, but poncy chemists won't sell you anything stronger than cough mixture these days. I could always get my Uncle some amyl nitrate when he asked me to. Don't know where he got the ether from, but it always got his little ED Bee going and was ace in my Racer. BTW, the Mk 4 was the precursor to the Racer. Looked a little earlier by being spindly and taller. Martin (the Anarchists' Boat Club)
Building stuff, me too. The engine I did attach this was a home designed 15cc glow rear induction rotary disc engine. We ran this at the model engineer exhibition at Bingley hall in the 1980's in Birmingham, before It burnt down (not our fault I add). The engine - notice twin glow spark because its a huge engine and overrun 1mtr of flames out of a scooter exhaust when it throttled down from 12,400rpm. ABC engine. Never made it into a boat too dangerous !!. 3 months to lap the piston in, compression high, power electric start only watch your wrists on starting. (sits on a shelf). Stephen.
This gets my goat. My boat had a Kawasaki lawn mower engine in it 26cc. It was no louder than a Flymo from where It came from(a lawn mower), in fact I was actually a bit quitter because it had a proper tuned exhaust. The Ban on IC means I cannot use it. The petrol issue now means the pool weeds up every year, because of the lack of nitrates going in the water so no body can use it. The weed means all the small fish are also gone that we use to catch as kids using rock pool nets when the power boats were bombing around, becuase the weed takes all the oxygen out the water killing the fish. When the pool weeds up no body can use it!!! Kept the boat for memory sake, and I too have a draw of retired engines and have to resort to opening my tool box for the smell of 40% glow fuel. Engine attached 9 years work and will never go into the boat I believe now. Are we going to ban petrol Lawn mowers in the future same as the flymo boat. Video on youtube https://youtu.be/7UQLaYVuDmI Also before the green squad suggest about the wild life, they periodiocally shoot the canadian foreigners on our water to keep the numbers down civil.
I used to use Blackheath pond South London but last time I went there with a boat I had just come off the pond after clipping the pond side and bending my prop shaft,The local park ranger pulled up in a van after someone making a complaint. The boat isn't noisy as the cooling also runs out of the exhaust. He told me I was very lucky as if he had actually seen it running on the pond it was an £80.00 fine. He saw me lifting it off the water but engine wasn't running. I don't understand it as some of the boats I have seen running with brushless scream more than my 26cc PT109. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico she isn't too bad on noise, I also have a Graupner Rhode Island with a brushless outboard but she is still untried on water up to now.
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..
Dave M is right, but, if you have the 46" hull at slow speeds you might find a lack of cooling, due to the long distance to the motor's, a pump will cure this, but, look for a low watt pump, 10 L PM will be fine. I like my outflow at the stern as the exhaust but it can be masked with the propwash Mark
I have forsale (2) COMPLETE MERCRUISER HP500 540 BULLDOG MOTORS - ready to drop-in - carb to pan, includes Mercruiser Offshore Racing exhaust, stainless risers, ALL brackets, original packing slips, manuals etc. These were purchased as 'back-up' motors for a 35 Fountain and were never used. $25K for everything BRAND NEW - BRAND NEW - NEVER FIRED.
The hobby doesn't have to cost the earth I made some ladders from welding brass filler wire, and an exhaust outlet from a draw knob I found whilst walking to the shops. Also done some additional planking using stirrer sticks from costa fortune coffee shop. (My son grabbed me a hand full enough for a life time's modelling).