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>> Home > Tags > fabricate

fabricate
fabricate
PROPELLERS by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Rowen, I agree with John 👍 Unless you have your own brass foundry the best we can do is turn the hub on a lathe, prefabricate the blades (making sure that they are identical form and weights!), cutting / milling slots into the hub and then solder - which is weakpoint Number 1! Then wonder why it runs rough and cavitates cos it's outa balance and uneven pitch😡 I suggest you leave it to the pros like Rabeosch who for about 15 bucks or so will give you a robust cast, balanced and highly polished scale or sports finished article. Weigh up the hours you will spend fiddlin' about against the price of a decent pro job. Especially if you need two or three the same for one boat. Only time I fiddle about is when I need small scale props for my plastic magic projects 1/72 down to 1/350! e.g. 4 for a carrier like Ark Royal or Enterprise at 1/350. There ain't nowt that small on the market. Cheers Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. In fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. It actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. In my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. It’s all about having fun, right? If the model looks right, it is right. Enough said.

Gannet 15cc by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, thanks for your reply, yes we have a great steam loco engineering club next to the model boat club I attend, so intend taking the old Gannet along one day to let them have a look and hopefully one of the guys will be able to fabricate a new connecting rod. Norman.

deepdivers Rescue tug - Assurance class? by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks to Doug for all his help in finding the name of my Tug. So armed with this info I started to Goggle the name and below is the results. H.M.S. ATTENTIF W68 French Naval Tug. Allocated SNO Portland for towing Bombardons. Built 1938 Forges et Chantiers de la Gironde, Bordeaux. L114.75’. B27.75’. 672grt. 1000ihp 3cylTE steam engine. Armament 1x20mm AA, 2xMG. 1938 Delivered to French Navy. 19-6-1940 Arrived Plymouth. 3-7-1940 Seized and Req by RN. 9-1940 Based Devonport. 0-1940 Based at Aberdeen. 1-1941 Based at Milford Haven. 2-1941 – 1942 Based Aberdeen . 1942 – 1944 Based at Harwich. 5-1944 - 1945 Based Portsmouth. 6-1944 Towed 30ton crane 1206 Cardiff to Plymouth. 5-6-1945 Released from Overlord tug pool. 7-8-1945 Returned to French Navy, pennant A671. 1946-7 Renamed Locmine. 6-3-1964 Laid up at Brest. The Bombardons were large 200 ft (61 m) by 25 ft (7.6 m) cross-shaped floating breakwaters fabricated in steel that were anchored outside the main breakwaters that consisted of Gooseberries (scuttled ships) and Phoenixes (concrete caissons). 24 bombardon units, attached to one another with hemp ropes, would create a 1 mi (1.6 km) breakwater. During the storms at the end 1944 some Bombardons broke up and sank while others parted their anchors and drifted down onto the harbours, possibly causing more damage Fred

H.M.S. Attentif W68 by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 5/10] Twin Propellors (4 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: I think that this is a Assurance class Tug of world war two vintage, It has tank steering, sound unit and a water vapor smoke unit, H.M.S ATTENTIF W68 French Naval Tug. Allocated SNO Portland for towing Bombardons. Built 1938 Forges et Chantiers de la Gironde, Bordeaux. L114.75’. B27.75’. 672grt. 1000ihp 3cylTE steam engine. Armament 1x20mm AA, 2xMG. 1938 Delivered to French Navy. 19-6-1940 Arrived Plymouth. 3-7-1940 Seized and Req by RN. 9-1940 Based Devonport. 0-1940 Based at Aberdeen. 1-1941 Based at Milford Haven. 2-1941 – 1942 Based Aberdeen . 1942 – 1944 Based at Harwich. 5-1944 - 1945 Based Portsmouth. 6-1944 Towed 30ton crane 1206 Cardiff to Plymouth. 5-6-1945 Released from Overlord tug pool. 7-8-1945 Returned to French Navy, pennant A671. 1946-7 Renamed Locmine. 6-3-1964 Laid up at Brest. The Bombardons were large 200 ft (61 m) by 25 ft (7.6 m) cross-shaped floating breakwaters fabricated in steel that were anchored outside the main breakwaters that consisted of Gooseberries (scuttled ships) and Phoenixes (concrete caissons). 24 bombardon units, attached to one another with hemp ropes, would create a 1 mi (1.6 km) breakwater. During the storms at the end 1944 some Bombardons broke up and sank while others parted their anchors and drifted down onto the harbours, possibly causing more damage

Gannet 15cc by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Purchased this motor back in 1966, I've broken my con' rod, I need to replace it so any ideas?, I've had one fabricated from aircraft quality aluminium but I'm not happy with it 😢. I do still have the original, though in two pieces 😪. So I'm putting it out there for any ideas on replacing it, whether it be original (not much hope) or a good engineer to re-manufacture👍.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

A little progress... by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Slow progress recently, partly due to snow(!) but also because I have had some engineering to catch up on. Anyway, I have cut and fitted but not completed shaping the bow and stern blocks, fitted the prop shaft and fabricated the rudder assembly. This was silver soldered using a little piece of 3mm silver steel and sheet and channel brass. Yes, the keel looks a bit of a mess in this area but I am going to cover the ply with mahogany veneer to match the planking when I have completed that, and of course it will all be painted below the water-line. I also made a rough cradle to keep the boat steady while working on it - to be replaced with a posh one when everything is done!

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
pmdevlin, I also see in your pictures that you have hardly any leading edge on your rudder, do you buy them like this or do you fabricate them yourself. If so then why ??

Too Powerful Brushless ? by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Very nice but I think our friend's prop tube comes through the keelson .The wedge shaped keel extension piece to which the tube is secured so that support would not suit. However a "U" tube or two could be fabricated and wrapped round tube and secured to keelson with a couple of small screws and a good glue.Ali .copper or brass would do. Brass best to avoid electrolytic corrosion with the brass prop tube. Also brass screws. BTW just looking at shaft is not enough to check if straight. Hold to a known straight edge or rolled on flat surface. This will show up even the slightest curvature by allowing light under the ends when rolling with the fingers in the middle. Or slide a piece of paper (cigarette paper best ) against ends .If it goes under there is a bend in the test piece 👍

Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.

Huntsman fittings kit. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Novagsio Do tread carefully if you intend to use Westbourne as there has been posts on this and other sites regarding their poor service level and lack of advertised stock. Canabus has a build blog mdlbt.com/31424 Not sure exactly what fittings you require but Reade Models may be able to help as they supported fittings for many of the kits produced alongside the Precedent range. http://reademodels.com If you are looking for the window frames then you may need to fabricate from liteply, or if you have a 3D printer source have some fabricated.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎

"Steelwork" fabricated ! by Ballast Captain   Posted: 11 months ago
THANKS MATE !