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>> Home > Tags > fiber glass

fiber glass
fibre glass
glass fibre
lindberg cc constellation
fiber glass
Fiberglassing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Resin alone gelcoat alone and tissue alone or a mixture of any of the above has no strength. However resin used with a matting or woven roven give the strength

Dr. Ing. Sander by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
The German model of fire boats. Hull with plankováním-wood, fiberglass superstructure. Drive 2 pieces motru 400 with gear ratio 1: 3, used customized truck from washer pump and powered by the 400 system. Complete illuminated flagpole, lights, cabin space and marker lights. Lifting the fire escape personally manufactured servo. Two functional water cannons. Batteries 2 pcs NiCd 3000 mA

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here: atch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.

Fiberglassing by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.

Build Update by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello all, Hope you are well? It's taken a while to get to where I am but I can start to see some real progress. I've managed to get the main superstructure complete, they are at a stage where they could be connected to the deck if it was ready. The Hull is now covered in a layer of Balsa, it does now need a lot of rubbing down so I can then look at applying a layer of fiberglass. I've not ordered this yet but I have seen it advertised at Cornwall Model Boats. If anyone has any suggestions on how to fiberglass I'm happy to hear any advise as this will be my 1st time. Good luck with your builds Regards Dave

S H Grainger Cigarette For Sale by headquarters Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
CIGARETTE BOAT MODEL 48”x12” This cool model was built by S.H.Grainger & Co., Marine Models Division, Walsall, England. Originally designed as a display model of the famous Cigarette racing boat, this would make a great conversion project to either gas or electric. The hull and top deck are in good shape (a few mounting holes but no cracks) Many of the decorative parts in a bag. This will certainly take some TLC, but the basic structure is of laminated fiberglass and well built. Unfortunately I'm in Miami, Florida. Asking $75 plus shipping from USA. Any suggestion on where to post this would be appreciated.

water proofing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😡. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. If you send me a private message with your email address I will share. Its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave

Progress on Build by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Hello all, I've made a start on the Superstructure, they are basic ply with blocking to support. I've split the sections into 3 as I want to have the middle superstructure secured to the decking but have the forward and rear sections removable to allow access to the motors etc. I've also made a start on the planking for the hull, this is balsa which I will look to cover in fiber glass once it is ready. slow progress and I'll update more when I can. Good luck with your builds. Dave

Sanding of the Barge by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good Morning Mark, Thanks for the suggestion, I'm going to call one of the model boat stores near me about four towns away. I'm going to see if they have what you are talking about. I really can't afford the resin smell in my place as it's an Apartment. But on the other hand, I want to finish off my Box Barge in the right way. I'm going to post my work as I progress, I've only worked once before with Resin and fiberglass cloth. It was a small strip of fiberglass 1"x6" not big at all! I will do as you say and work in layers, Let's give it a try shall we! Oh, should I sand between layers? Ed

Submarine wanted by Hansen Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi, I am selling epoxy fiberglass hulls for some subs. Right now, I am finishing work on mold for German Type 214 sub, lenght 135 cm If interested, mail me on I am producing a lot of ship hulls.

Fitting the side skins. by don6398 Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
I have 3 boats that way and they turned quite good. They are definitely strong. I have fiberglass a 4 real boats. The product can be messy but definitely worth the work and time.

Fitting the side skins. by don6398 Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
You made a hard job look easy. Do you cover the boat with fiberglass cloth and resin

Extra Vagancia by Krampus Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 25" Extra Vagancia Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 50mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a High Performance 2845 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (10.8v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks G2 30A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Inspired on 1970s Chris Craft 45 SF/Commander and Bertram 46 Convertible. Fiberglass deep-vee hull made in the U.S.A. Approx. 1/20 scale. Real boat could be nearly 42.2 x 13.8 feet, similar as a Bertram 42 Convertible (42.6 x 14.10). Equipped with 9v lights system. Completion time: nearly 155 hours (5 months).

Naval pinnace or Picket boat completed by Lauriem Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Finally completed after 35 years, must be a record! Boiler clad in balsa insulation and then mahogany strips. Four channel radio, throttle, steering, reverser and gas isolation valve - in case the prop gets stuck on something out on the water. Hotchkiss 3 pounder made by 3D printing and forward cabin made in fiberglass on a 3D printed mould. All superstructure held down by magnets. Manual gas shut off valve under the gun. Funnel is rolled brass and hatches scratch built from brass sheet. Very nice looking boat and it's a shame that the 'innards' aren't visible when its working.

Solent lifeboat by Vickers1979 Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi Dave when you say resin I take it you mean just normal fiber glass resin.? Thanks again Dave m%uD83D%uDE00