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>> Home > Tags > fiber glass

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Fascis Board and Molding! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The engine room floor is in place. using Resin it's not going any where! It's ok I'll make do! I believe that Dumas used the motor mount floor design from their fiberglass hull. So it fits very high in the plastic hull design! No worries it will work! It better!!!!!!😡😊

Command Boat 90 by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I tried one of these but couldn't get it to reverse the boat. Possibly not got the correct set up for the jet nozzle. It pushed a 30 inch fiber glass fast patrol boat very well, might try to sort outlet to give better control. You've raised my interest again thanks, Colin.

Krampus Yachts by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Hello Doug! Actually, not in Juyilanga but in Fishfull Thinking. I took a line here and there from our plan for the superstructure. I utilized ABS plastic instead of wood. No need to mess with fiberglassing and no cracking on the Alpine cold waters. Notice that I used the same type of hull on these two boats. Happens that Fishfull Thinking was originally another boat I had, but not happy with the superstructure, I rebuilt the whole thing but kept its fiberglass hull almost intact. Both hulls were home made by a guy in California. 😁

Juyilanga by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 25" Juyilanga Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 50mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 500 series Johnson 69215 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper Marine 40 (40Amps) ESC - Comments: Inspired in now defunct American manufacturer Uniflite, this boat is based upon 1970s-early 80s 28-footer model "Salty Dog" and is built on approximately 1:16 scale. Fiberglass deep-vee hull made in the U.S.A. Superstructure made with 2mm ABS plastic sheets. Equipped with 9v lights system. Completion time: nearly 5 months.

Rubrails in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The rubrails are know in place! 1/8" square plastic rods are glued. on to the rubrail padding. On the fiberglass hull this was molded on the hull! The hull becomes very rigged. After you put the rubrail padding. Then put the rubrail on. Make the hull quite sound!👍

False Keel in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high. Took all day long! grind here, sand there! False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps! Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!

Trim the Keel! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Unlike the fiberglass hull. that use to come with the Brooklyn. The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull! After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull! This will then become the keel! Be careful not to go into the hull. While your trimming the hull!

Resin on the Seam! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well now that my prop stuff arrived. I fent like working on the seam. That goes far and aft in the hull! Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon. Along the middle of the hull! Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍

SEA COMANDER RE-FURB. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊

Inside of the Hull and the Flange by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK, the inside of the hull is sanded! Next is Polyester resin about one pint. and a 1" brush is needed for this step! In the kit there is a 1" x 40ish" of fiberglass tape. Use this to reinforce the seam. After that comes the Flange that goes around the hull. You must grind down all of the flange that run far and aft. Be very neat don't gouge of nic the keel! The next step is to put the false Keel. Remember be neat working around the Keel....

What is this material? by Sashaloki Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
The typical application would be shaping the model in polyurethane foam and then cover it with several layers of polyester resin (the most common resin used with fiberglass to build hulls). Also surf boards used to be "shaped" by hand and layered as I mentioned. So for bonding, any polyester resin, expoxi like glues (two components).

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

Juntilla by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
So, here's my current project in the works. I got a nice 25-inches Deep-Vee fiberglass hull a while ago and now (finally) have a concept for it. Almost by accident I came across a plan for an American bass boat which in turn reminded me of a boat that caught my attention when I was a kid while reading a boating magazine. The boat is a 28-footer from a now defunct firm named Uniflite. It was a small deep-sea sports fisherman called "Salty Dog". Uniflite was very well known within the American boating circles during the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Uniflite created and supplied PBR river patrol craft to the US Navy between 1965 and 1972 for rivers in Vietnam using an already existing pleasure boat hull and adapting jet nozzles for propulsion. So, I just created a prototype template of the cabin so more to follow 😎.

2017 Regatta Report by Phrogphlyer Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 months ago
More information-I thought a pdf file was pretty much universal in the computer world, but I have been wrong before! I could open it by just clicking on the icon. Such is life. The model ship that some asked about is the USS ANTIGONE, a 1919 circa troop transport. The builders grandfather served on her 1918-1919. She was originally SS Neckar built for North German Lloyd from her 1900 launch until seized by the U.S. in 1917. After her war service she was SS Potomac for United States Lines. The model has 2 main drive motors a smoking stack, navigation & deck lights. Fiberglass hull.

Sea Queen refurbishment by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local fiber glass moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. It is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.