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>> Home > Tags > fibre glass

fibre glass
fiber glass
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fibre glass
It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. It could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted

HS Smitzopoulos by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 64" HS Smitzopoulos Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x 720kV (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (12v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 2 x Turnigy 30A (15Amps) ESC - Comments: La Combattante IIIB Class Guided Missile boat of the Hellenic Navy. It has two brushless motor systems (each described in the table, drawing 8 amps max). All four gun turrets can rotate and the main guns can also elevate. Radars both rotate. LED running lights. Hull is from balsa and marine ply with a fibreglass skin. Deck and superstructure is balsa. Masts are from brass tube.

Juyilanga by Krampus Captain   Posted: 24 days ago
Just fresh off the shipyard, this is my version of an American made Uniflite (firm died several years ago) "Salty Dog" 28. Its name is a Puerto Rican slang for escapade. From the same firm who designed and made the legendary Vietnam War Patrol River Boat (PBR), this boat was part of Uniflite's recreational boats line. For this one, I utilized a fibreglass hull I found on Ebay and did the rest with Ethylene 2mm plastic sheets. It runs a 9.6v NiHm battery, a 30A Mtroniks controller, a 3-bladed 35mm M4 bronze propeller.

Boat Identity by Keystone Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Is there anyone on here who can give me any detail of my boat. She is about 44inches long, 15inch beam and the mast is 55inches. I acquired it from a non-modeller in Norwich after his father died. I believe it to built by a commercial firm as it is quite heavy fibre glass and very little access to the control gear. Sails like a dream but any information would be helpful.

Any clues? by aanside Seaman   Posted: 28 days ago
I am inclined to thinking it might be a barge. It is broad in girth (like me) and fairly short bow to stern but has a hole for a bowsprit. The guy it came from has gone the way of all good sailors (off to Thailand to find a wife 😁) but his other boats are a Joffre Tug and a Smit Nederland tug (plus Pourquoi Pas from Billings) - all to appear, apparently, on Fleabay. The hull I have is a fibreglass moulding so presumably comes from a commercial source but I doubt it is a "kit" like the others. Workmanship on the capping rail and deck is a bit ropey so it will need a lot of tlc. If I can find a suitable plan to give me some thoughts it will become the next on the stocks once my Battle Class destroyer is finished.

What is this boat ????? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's fibreglass, the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck

Spraying/hand painting by overthesea Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have had the same problem, but to solve it, I stripped it all down and then used EzeKote and their micro fibre glass cloth. Super finish and I highly recommend it. You have to take the hull or whatever down to bare wood though or it will peel off. Will use the same method on all my modelss in future. Hopes this helps.

Vosper MTB385 by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Scratchbuilt WW2 1/24 Scale Vosper 73' Type 1 MTB. Built in 2016, in company with a friend's 1/24 scale BPB MGB. The Vosper hull is built from balsawood and fibreglass. The upper deck and superstructure is from balsawood. The weapons and fittings are from brass, aluminium and plastic. The 20mm and gunner can rotate.

SeaSpray by pjarrett Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 38"/5000g SeaSpray Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA 850 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Purchased as kit around 1972, fibre glass hull with ply deck and superstructure. Had many changes and refits over the years and was originally fitted with and OS Marine glow engine which gave good performance and was quiet! Changed to the MFA electric motor with ESC. Installed two LiPo batteries which makes the hull well balanced and allows the deep V hull design to plane as designed. Have designed and made two electro-magnetic lifting sticks which help me raise and lower the boat into the water. Age related launching aid!

Sea Queen Spray Rails by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
There are some fibreglass boats have them built in in fibreglass along the under side of the hull and not the side edge. Why is this. I don't understand this.

Footy by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I would say Dave, it best fits the 507 design and the rudder of a “Siren”. See my new photos to compare. The hull is fibreglass

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.