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>> Home > Tags > fibre glass

fibre glass
fiber glass
glass fibre
fibre glass
What Gun? by onetenor Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Half a rubber / plastic ball could mould the hemisphere using fibreglass or glass cloth and resin.Either inside or out. Out for a mould to make the finished article. Inside for the finished article. The barrel from successive gauges of brass and / or ali tubing to give the stepped effect . Regards John 😋👍

mystery yacht by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
hi all. I have purchased a yacht hull and deck as my next project from that well known auction site, but am struggling to find the maker or the name of the yacht?. it came complete with a fibreglass deck, measures 48" long 10" beam and 11" to keel bottom, I am sure some one out there knows what it is based on or who manufactured it. I have started the build and am going to loosely base it on the 1930 yacht enterprise, mainly the sail plan. have added a few photos if it helps thanks for any help. basilsdad

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi. Just put this back together after the 3rd brushless motor caught fire. Made from a rejected glass fibre hull which I bought cheap at a show. I have now learned how to do glass fibre repairs.

Balsa Boat 1970's made to Model Boat plans. by Novagsi0 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Old boat of my fathers built from scratch in balsa wood, and fibre glassed inside. Use to run a small diesel engine, I took over it and initially put an Orbit 805 motor in then later a better spec model car motor 545/550 water cooled. Finally I swapped it for a 1.25cc glow engine and this video demonstrates the speed with the glow engine. Was almost too fast for the hull, tight turns caused it to nose dive, and plane/wobble badly on its side. Great fun and cheap to run.

Graf Spee 1:20 !! All aboard ;-) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Wayne I was not underestimating the capabilities, just pointing out that the hobby machines are small and not intended for printing large flat areas. Wood/Plasticard and Fibreglass are far better suited and much quicker for such jobs. If you really wanted such a job it would be better done professionally on an epoxy type industrial machine, might be a bit expensive, but then again at £20 per reel your costs must be escalating. Looking forward to the finished craft Dave

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Doug I used a trader (Steve Tranter- Model Boat Bits) to get the waterjet cutting done. The machine needs programming and I provided a spread sheet with the dimensions and they produced the file and did the cutting. As we were building two large models this was the only way we could get the project finished on time. I have been experimenting with crystal clear resin to produce portholes for a Confiance Class tug I am building. I made portholes out of brass on the lathe then filled the centre with the clear casting resin. I had bubbles in the initial attempt but by using a syringe and flicking the tube the bubbles all go to the top of the syringe and the result is to my liking. I do paint the portholes first. When dry I just glue in the fibreglass hull with epoxy. Mine are near the waterline and whilst cyano would work I don't trust it when wet as experienced with the Olympic. You could drill and fill your portholes with this, just need to place a blanking plate behind each porthole til the clear casting resin sets. I suspect this would be quicker than using acetate. Incidentally I used to cut my acetate portholes with a heated brass tube. I used a piece of stainless rod inside the tube to push the portholes out. Cheers Dave

fibre glass or not by fred12 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
the boat skin is double planked 7x2mm planks. length 35" width 10" as you can see I work in all sorts of measurement regards fred

fibre glass or not by reilly4 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Fred, This all depends on the size and structure of the boat and the type of timber used as a skin. Fibreglass is generally used to strengthen and waterproof the boat.

fibre glass or not by fred12 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I am building a runabout all wood construction do I need to F/Glass the hull or can I give the hull a couple of coats of varnish ? regards fred

waterproofing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi eric Welcome to the site. What type of boat have you bought? Is it a plastic, fibreglass or wood hull? Can you post a pic? We need a bit more detail please so we can give useful advice Dave

Marblehead and swing rig by Paul Millers Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm looking for a Marblehead yacht and swing rigs almost anything considered as prepared to restore, but not a wooden hull, fibre glass or carbon fibre. I seem to spend a good deal of my time breathing life into wooden hulls, but no more😱.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All The stern is finally covered in with the help of my magnet handle clamps. Fibreglass resin, filled and sanded. Spray putty/primer undercoated. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Sorry rolfman2000 I wasn't being funny about it, you just had me wondering about it. As you say we all seem to have the same boats. I have both 34" & 46" Crash Tenders both still unmade in the boxes. A 46" to refurbish, Sea Queen and Sea Commander both again for refurbishing, 34" Huntsman and A Huntsman Hull with no top and a Perkasa hull with no top also to refurb. Sea Hornet as well as several other model boats which are fibreglass ones. And a couple of cars and planes but I still cannot fly them, I cannot get the hang of them. You can get the Sea Queen from Vintage Model boats as they are remaking it now.

Precedent Huntsman 34" by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Gents I received my drive line last night and installed it and the motor mount, also added a wood block for the rudder. Fibreglass it all it. The prop is a 50mm with 4mm clearance, but, I run 40mm props on my boats this size. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave