There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.
[Score: 5/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson 600 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (80Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts More to follow
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Had this Fortune 612 delivered through the post while in Hospital and when unpacked found that the keel had broken at the base. Any advice please as to a suitable method of repair as I can't seem to find a replacement on 'tinternet'. Fibreglass comes to mind???
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.
Hi Welcome to the site If it's plasticard using fibreglass or paint stripper may cause it to melt. What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic? If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.
a job lot i have acquired contains a boat that has been constructed out of plasticard and painted red, whats the best way to recover the plasticard hull, d o I strip it or just rub the paint down cover it with fibre glass😡? (never come across the card build before) *** Thanks will try the paint job***
Both Fairmile D boats 1/24 scale and are scratch built. They have both been about 6 years in operation. MGB623 is an MGB, flying the Norwegian flag and belongs to a good friend. Mine is MTB741. It is powered by 2 Graupner Speed 700 12V motors with NiMH batteries. The 6 pdrs and 20mm guns can rotate. It has a balsa planked hull and fibreglass skin. Decks and superstructure are also balsa. Guns are from tinplate and brass.
Hi Novagsio The only place that my help you out is Westbourne model.co.uk, but, they sell to full kit. May sell the fittings kit. The original handrails from my Precedent fibreglass hull are total rubbish, but, I only got with my second hand unfinished boat the air scoops. So I plan on making the hand bow rail and windscreen. My boat is in the BUILD BLOGS on the site. Canabus
Another boat my Dad started. A large fibre glass hull of the tug 'Cervia'. I would be interested if anyone has any information about the hull producer. I know it was purchased from Pontins model makers festival, Brean Sands from back in the day more than 35 years ago. It was to be petrol/ electric and he spend 9 years making a 4 cylinder 4 stroke 'Sealion' engine from scratch to power it, along with some windscreen motors from a Land rover. I've attached some pictures and work could continue if I find the will, after the huntsman is complete.
having used glass fibre most of my working life , I have never used heat too shape or alter the shape of any glass fibre item. how ever I have used the resin to make long shaped items (without the glass fibre ) and use boiling water to shape them to form on another shape ,such some of the decoration on post boxes ( patterns for casting)
The DF95 is too short at 950mm for IOM. I think that the Ragazza can squeeze into the IOM rules with a bit of tweaking. The supplied mast and sails fall between an A rig and a B rig in size. The mast is removable. If you decide to change the paintwork on a Ragazza you have two options. 1. Paint over the existing surface and add a bit more weight. 2. Strip the existing surface off and repaint on the bare fibreglass. Beware, this is not an easy job. The existing surface is VERY hard and takes a lot of sanding with very heavy sand paper to remove. Been there, done that. The Ragazza is a pretty boat and fun to sail but it will not stand up against the red hot competition IOMs.
Half a rubber / plastic ball could mould the hemisphere using fibreglass or glass cloth and resin.Either inside or out. Out for a mould to make the finished article. Inside for the finished article. The barrel from successive gauges of brass and / or ali tubing to give the stepped effect . Regards John 😋👍