A two week holiday, promotion at work and getting the spring cleaning done has meant little time for building in March.. However the suns out and as I said to my wife it’s the perfect weather for fibre glassing!! Spending some time this weekend fitting the deck beams and shelves so the structure below deckline is finished!
The model is 1.48 scale scratch built on a fibreglass hull.Very detailed and accurate. Radio Controlled 2.4Ghz with working lights. She is 38 inches long For sale complete with the radio and batteries ready to sail.She is very weatherproof and can sail in rough conditions. The top is sealed on and released with four screws, no need to get inside to charge her up as there is a charging point at the top of the funnel. A display stand is also included I am asking £800. If you are interested you can come and have a look before committing yourself. email me direct on firstname.lastname@example.org
Billing boats, which took me 3 years to build.Hull was planked and theh fibre glass. Boat has full functional remote with seperate port starboard control,rudder and bow thruster. full inside and mast lighting.
Progressing well. The removable roof above the cabin was just clamped; seats have been started; exterior of the hull will be fibreglassed and resin applied to the interior. I have received mast lengths from the Wianno Senior Association and the gaff and boom too. These will be made from Sitka Spruce later in the month.
[Score: 9/10] 58"/9000g MTB741 Fairmile D Capable of 9mph and a runtime of 65mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700BB 12V (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (12v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 30A Tio x 2 (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. It took 3.5 years. Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then fibreglassed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz
The strengtheners for where the main mast will be fixed in place through the deck were glued in place with gorilla glue and fibreglassed in once the glue had gone of again this timber was an of cut that was to hand but this needed to be substantial as I would be using 12mm dowel for the main mast.
The next job was to fit the bulk heads and the deck shelf strips around the edges. I had some scrap pieces of 8mm OSB board so I used this for the bulk heads which were glued in place using gorilla glue then fibreglassed in once the glue had gone of. The shelf strips are 10mm square oak that were fixed 6mm below final deck hieght as I will be using 4mm ply for the sub deck followed by 2mm planking strips in walnut and beech.
Hello all this is my latest build of the Kingston mouldings Bristol pilot cutter 'mascotte' was purchased from a forum friend who no longer had time to build it. Sadly Kingston mouldings has now closed down. The first job was to glue the lead ballast into the bottom of the hull, this was done by using fibreglass resin then a couple of layers of fibreglass to seal the lead shot into the built in keel
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎
I have scratch-built a Fairmile D in 1/24 scale. if you look through my posts/videos you will see it. I used the Lambert-Ross Allied Coastal Forces book for the plan that I scaled up. Perhaps I should enter it in my boat harbour. Anatomy of a Ship is also a good source of information. I built mine from Balsawood/Pine and fibreglassed it. Attached are a few photos. Watch the videos. They may inspire you. I have previously posted these links under videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3KotucrlzE&t=20shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny718cnD6sQ&t=166s
Hi Andy I am interested to read about your plans for a dog boat as I am thinking of doing the same (when my Thames steam launch is eventually finished....!). One reason that I am considering this is that my headmaster, when I was at Maidenhead Grammar School in the 1960's, was a former skipper of MGB 658 and I am lucky enough have autographed copies of two of his books. "Motor Gunboat 658" is a fascinating read if you haven't already come across it, as is "Dog Boats at War" with plenty of useful information and photographs - just two of the books by Len Reynolds DSC. (He rose from Navigating Officer to Captain during the war in the Mediterranean theatre and served on MGB 658 from its commissioning in 1943 to the war's end.) Apologies by the way if you already know all this! Two questions if you don't mind - are you going to do a complete scratchbuild from plans or complete a fibreglass hull, and which/whose plans are you using? This may help my own decisions later on. I have seen that there are plenty of the appropriate weapons in 1/24th scale on the Deans website which should make life easier with the fiddly bits! Very best wishes with the build. Smiffy