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>> Home > Tags > fibre glass

fibre glass
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Dolphin 16 (19) by AllenA Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi All Sealed the forward inside with fibreglass and installed the forward deck. Canabus

eezebuild RAF tender by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
MDF does act like a sponge, but I would expect it to act the same with sanding sealer or fibreglass resin, don't discount it too soon👍 Cheers Wayne

Sea Queen refurbishment by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Guys Looks like we have the same boats!!! I have a Sea Hornet(built from the original plans), Crash Tender 48", Sea Commander and I bought a Precedent Huntsman 31(fibreglass hull)with building instructions. The instructions were sold as plans, but, with a lot of time with a photocopier they could be turn into plans. Or scan into AutoCAD and resized!!! My mate has a Swordsman which he finally finished after over 40 years(with plans). All the boats are running brushless motors. Canabus

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Guys Only more planking, but, I can finally start to see the hull shape. The veneer planking is dam strong and very light. The only part which I think I maybe required another stringer is the cockpit between the stringer and the sides, but, I will add some 2 ounce fibreglass matt when I resin the inside.

Weathering by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Added the numbers and name yesterday and started the weathering process. Unlike my previous boat (Emily P) which was based on a steel hull I can't go crazy with the rusting! Fibre glass does however fade where water is consistently running so I have added some extra epoxy resin running down the sides from the scuppers and where the v doors, trawl and nets would rub. I have then used white gloss, brown fence paint and will add some green (for the slime!) This was applied with a cotton ear bud and then rubbed back with some string.

In the water! by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
I have found the new benefit of having a hot tub in the garden! Pleased to see her finally in the water. Allowing for battery weight, additional deck gear etc I can see how she is sitting. And I'm pleased to see my fibre glassing is watertight! Now to get her out and turn the bubbles on for a quick relax!

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Just started cleaning up my dads old Sea Queen. Spent four hours rubbing down hull (one half), as there is a bad layer of old fibre glass tape round the chine line. After cleaning back I found that the oil from inside had got into the joints. A lot of the nails had fallen out, so I have given a coat of epoxy , it now seems quite stable. Will do the same with the other side. The keel is delaminating so I will inject with epoxy and clamp. Hopefully she will hold together while I do the work so that I can coat the whole hull with extra fine glass cloth and resin. Will have to get more rapid set epoxy from pound shop tomorrow. That's all for now, goodnight all.

Fibre glassing by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Decided that this heat would make it an ideal day to pop on a mask and gloves and glass in some of the beams and beds! Added a coat to the gunnels and the transom too. Also fitted the rudder, used some plumbing pipe which I glassed in. Deck has also been started as well as the forward deck.

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Running gear or furniture.. Once the skeleton or frame was completed it's a good idea to dry fit all the running gear, Drive motors shaft's and prop's, plus the radio gear and battery boxes/trays, and even sound unit locations. Then start the skinning. This hull has very curvy bottom skins, in that they turn from the transom to the bow 90 degrees sharply. Tried some test pieces of vertical grain ply, ( 1.5mm ) but it was the same as horizontal grain.. Skins were placed in as large as pieces as possible at about 45 degrees to the keel, or planking in ply.. Not a pretty sight, but makes life a lot easier. The skins were dry fitted with brass pins first, mainly to assist in the cutting of the skin shape. When the bottom skins were completed and rough trimmed the side skins were applied and these were vertically grained, again makes life a lot easier and they fall onto the stringers, means less brass pins and elastic bands. Not forgetting to drill some 1" holes in the breast-hook and No; 1 former, as i always pour in a little Fibre glass resin to help seal the bow section and add some strength. Regards Muddy....

How many is to Many by Graham Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
We have just moved house so I (and my wife) are now fully aware of the true situation. I (that is we ) have :- 3-46" fireboats 4-34" fireboats 1-Sea Queen 1-Sea Scout 1-Sea Hornet ,which is unbuilt 1-RM2, which I have owned since about 1964 1-Snoopy hydroplane 1-OS Max 40 powered multi racer from the 1980s 1-54" offshore racer which needs building ...and I just bought a 46" fibre glass crash tender hull A couple are electric but mostly diesel, petrol or glow powered ,including, Super Fury, Racers, Hunters, Frog, McCoy, Merco, a Force 10 and a Gannet. The "problem" would appear to be growing, I recently built a Peacemaker control liner and bought a Pinto 1/2A team racer on Ebay....I can sense the rocket approaching !!

Fiberglassing by Delboy Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
As I recall from my material science studies, a resin coat on its own will strengthen a thin wood panel but it is prone to cracking. Once it has cracked to a certain extent, any strength it has imparted will have evaporated and all you are left with is extra weight. Glass fibres added to the resin act to prevent cracks propagating through the material and add to its toughness. So resin adds strength, glass fibre adds toughness.

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave

Jet Sprint Boat by Rod Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Removed first hull from mould Had a few problems with the release but all OK now so onwards and upwards !! Laid profile for top deck now and starting the clay shaping Should be a bit easier than the hull and hope to have this ready for moulding shortly I intend to cover it with silicone first to get a good impression and back it up for strength with fibreglass strengthened casting plaster I will then lay the fibreglass in the mould and gradually build it up for the finished article Well that's the theory at this stage lol Will keep in touch with progress but going well and I am happy with the results so far