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I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.
I have spoken to the person who built the boat. It is based on a Vintage model boat company design. It was scratch built and is made of strips of mahogany as I originally suspected. Having looked at the Vintage model company site it most resembles a sea hornet, however another kit may have been available at the time it was made. The strips of Mahogany were the builder making use of the materials they had to hand at the time, hence the vertical strips! The interior is covered in fine fibreglass mesh and 3 thin coats of fibreglass resin. Work on the restoration continues!
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave
Removed first hull from mould Had a few problems with the release but all OK now so onwards and upwards !! Laid profile for top deck now and starting the clay shaping Should be a bit easier than the hull and hope to have this ready for moulding shortly I intend to cover it with silicone first to get a good impression and back it up for strength with fibreglass strengthened casting plaster I will then lay the fibreglass in the mould and gradually build it up for the finished article Well that's the theory at this stage lol Will keep in touch with progress but going well and I am happy with the results so far
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave
Thanks for the info We are well on the way to sorting it out now thanks The guy that did the original take from the mould used gell coat which I didn't want as it chips too easy on the river rocks and I don't think he used the correct release agent either However all good now and should have a new one off shortly I have commenced the top half now and will use a silicone mould strengthened with fibreglass and plaster over the back of it to hold in place I have done this before and should have done again on the original mould Slow learner aye !! Lol It is going to look just fine when it is all finished Will post a photo of it when the next hull comes off Cheers
I'll be putting some thin fibreglass over him & then dig out the body so I can fit servos to give him head movement. The Mrs went out shopping this morning so I popped upstairs, I can't miss a golden opportunity 😂👍 I'll see if I can buy a 1/4 scale Mr Whoppit. Cheers Wayne
Hi Wayne Had a bit of a problem with fibreglass V plaster reaction so just altering the mould slightly and new hull being laid now Should be OK now and I am just about to commence the top/ deck mould but will do the mould in silicone and back it with plaster so I don't get the reaction I experienced first time round I have done a fair amount of sculpture before and always used silicone so I should have know better lol Will keep you posted and thanks for your interest
I've a 2" burn on my arm but that's it, guess I've been lucky. The big issue will be with the front end, I want to remotely move the canopy so I've got lots of runners & mounts to make before I can crack on & finish the front. Plenty of sanding & filling & sanding & filling &&&& before I can start with the fibreglass. Cheers Wayne
I would never use enamel over an acrylic based paint as it will over time crinkle. You can use acrylic over enamel but I do agree that Plastikote is best avoided as I have had similar unfortunate incidents with crinkling. If you are painting a fibreglass or plastic surface then the acrylic (not cellulose based) rattle cans will give a quick and satisfactory finish and can be protected with a clear mat or silk lacquer. If you have a wooden hull then enamel may be a better choice as it will absorb the oil and aid the drying process. In my experience enamel can take some time to dry especially if you are banished to an outbuilding due to the smell. Whatever you choose careful preparation and taking your time will give the best result. Happy building and painting Dave
Hi Martin Sorry, Brian does fibreglass moulds but his sailing models are all built from wood. Fibreglass is used inside to seal the planks and keep all dry. As well as the railway we also have Rolls Royce. We actually sail on waters between Holmes Chapel and Knutsford relatively close to the M6. The lakes were created when the sand was removed for the construction of the Motorway. Cheers Dave
Hi Martin We sail a variety of yachts at my club. As well as the class yachts we have Pond Yachts, Thames Barges, Norfolk Wherry, Pilot cutters, Fishing boats, RN Gunboats, Tall ships and have our own mould for a plank on frame 5' schooner. Most are scratch built and have been built from scaled up plans. We use Posterazor - http://posterazor.sourceforge.net/ to magnify to scale. You then print to several pages at your chosen size. I have attached a few pics of some of the models. If you send me a pm I will add you to my U-tube page where there is video of models sailing on the club waters. We also make our own fibreglass moulds and hulls as do many other club's members. Must admit we have not seen any footies but all models apart from IC and fast electric racing boats are welcome. You have no location shown on your profile so it's difficult to suggest where you might find like minded Yachties. Most clubs will have yacht members if the water is suitable so if you look in our Model Boat Club section you may find one near to your location. Dave
I knew a guy did that, but the water still got in the fish net No, the cotton is like J-Cloth....cotton waste. It's like fibreglass tissue but much softer and more compliant, but massively strong, especially once the epoxy has set. Martin
Have removed plaster cast from the clay mould and very pleased with the results Will now have some fibreglass hulls taken off by a specialist (not me ) lol Now onto the next stage forming the top half so it's back to the clay again so here's hoping it goes as well Will update progress again shortly