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>> Home > Tags > fibreglass

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MFA Avenger kit by 2435mick Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, I have for sale a new and unused MFA Avenger kit, it is all fibreglass, the box has been opened but thats as far as it got, all parts are still in their original wrappers/bags. I will never get around to building this and would like to see it go to someone who will construct and finish it to a high standard. Designed around the MFA 12v motor, I think a brushless would be much better or a glow conversion (3.5cc to 8.5cc recommended). Looking for £70 plus post (courier about £9) will sort a photo of box if anyone wants to see it

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here:https://www.youtube.com/w atch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.

Marina by NeilHodson Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 42"/6000g Marina Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 70mm) Geared to a Unknown (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese ESC - Comments: Resurrected from a derelict hull and 'mahoganised', this boat is built on a bread and butter hull coated in fibreglass. Boasting a Steam sound generator and baby oil smoke generator linked to the speed controller it had been mistaken for steam powered on several occasions.

Ballast for Puffer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I have a large 4' Puffer purchased many years ago form Martins Models at an E Port show. Originally I tried lead but it became very heavy to carry. I modified mine by making three large sealed fibreglass containers in side the hull which were open at the base and had open portholes at the top exiting thro the hull sides. I now only need about 1lb of lead plus the 12v 12Ahr battery to ballast. Put the model in the water then add the battery and ballast, the boat sinks to the waterline. Take the battery and ballast out and the boat rises, lift with two straps and all the water drains leaving a light hull to carry. The pic shows the model in its lead ballast days.

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Dave, That looks like a really nice piece of water! I have a massive appreciation for the work, skills & dedication involved in building & running accurate scale models. My fascination is with fast boats, K7 in particular & although the design is over 60 years old now, it's still a bit of a hooligan. It just didn't occur to me that someone with a boat like mine would be welcome amongst the scale community, at first scan through list of clubs there isn't anything on my doorstep, I'll have to increase my radius. My skill levels are limited but as they say every day is a school day & I'm picking up new knowledge & skills as I go along. The concern for me between IC & Brushless is on one hand add fuel & run for hours vs add batteries & run for minutes. 240+ amp esc's can cost the same as a half decent 30cc IC engine but to be honest for me the sound of electric motors is far more preferable to IC. I guess I need to take on as much advice as possible before I start splashing the cash. I'm certainly not pigheaded enough to ignore advice given, that's for sure. I've seen a video on YouTube of a guy building an aeroplane fuselage without a mold, by creating a blue foam plug & fibreglassing over it, once the fibreglass has been smoothed & filled it is split to remove the foam core, he ended up with a large lightweight fuselage that only needed minor bracing to make it strong enough to fly. This idea really appealed to me so I went out today and bought a load of blue foam, I'll have a go at building the sponsons first & see how I get on... Cheers Wayne

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi all, my first post so please be gentle with me. I'm Wayne from Colne in Lancashire, I'm very new to the hobby. I started building a brushless prop driven 1/12 scale Bluebird K7 late on last year, I'd got the plans from Canada & they were at best very poor. At first it was 1 step forwards & 2 steps back but I've progressed to the point where it's "alive", just the canopy to vacuum form & fit & it will be ready to paint. During the backwards steps I've also built a 1/24 scale K7 for my grandson, just the sponsons to fit then it will be ready for paint also. I've managed to lay my hands on the Nexus K7 plans at 8.4/1, I figured go big or go home so I had them doubled in size so they are now at 4.2/1, I just can't afford to put a turbine in is so I'm planning to put a couple of 27cc tiger king engines in it. It's going to be an expensive build so I'm collecting "stuff" for the build. I've managed to get hold of an old Dumas short stuff fibreglass kit that I'm going to build for my grandson & ive just got a bigger hull off eBay for £30. Can anyone identify this hull? Sorry for the long post!!! Cheers Wayne

Planking the hull. by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Timber hull construction finished. Now the sanding and filling of imperfections to prepare for the next stage which will be the application of a fibreglass cloth skin to waterproof the hull and obtain a steel-plated like finish.

Planking the Hull by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin

Steam Launch. "Sweet Sue " by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.

solent lifeboat coloul blue by Mataroa Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Ur man Dave 👍I have fibreglass the hull and im going to gelcoat next week the hull of solent lifeboat made of steel . many thanks Dave .cliff

ship hull blanks or bodys by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Welcome to the site. I see from your profile that you are resident in the USA. There are suppliers in the UK and Europe but transport costs may make them costly. Robbe used to do a kit of a similar vessel but at about twice the size. Many hulls are made of fibreglass so would they suit your purpose? You may like to look on http://modelsbydesign.co.uk/mo del_boats.aspx. Dave

Bridge Build by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello all, I've been busy with the Bridge build, this has proved a little tricky as the forward structure is at a slight angle when not on the ship. I've used a combination of 1/8 ply and 0.75mm plastic sheet. I needed the ply in this section as this will be where I will have hull access for batteries and needed the strength. The walls of the upper structure are plastic sheet which I think have come out well. There is still more to add (look out wings at the rear of the bridge need walls etc) I can the start to connect this to the decking before adding finer details. Coming on slowly is the hull, I will spend a bit more time here over the coming weeks to get it ready for sanding and then fibreglass coating. Good luck with your builds. Dave

Moving again.. well, just a bit by ThatSinkingFeeling Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
So, having saved the kit from being put in the loft with the Xmas decorations and associated detritus Cordene is moving again. I've invested in a few additional hand tools, and also (thanks to those who helped with my propeller 101 question) in a shiny new brass prop, which is a lot more confidence-inspiring that the white metal one that came with the kit. Task now in hand is sanding off the excess fibreglass around the gunwales. To assist with achieving a straight edge where required I am applying lengths of PVC electricians tape as a guide to where to stop.

Kingfisher progress by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Tell me! What do I do next? Is K-3 to be sanded flush, if so, this would cause a broad flat area. Is it to then have a 1" strip of fibreglass tape applied? OR ???