Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
August 2017: 7 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 17 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (8)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > fibreglass

fibreglass
fiber glass
fiberglass
fibre glass
glass
glass fibre
fibreglass
waterproofing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi eric Welcome to the site. What type of boat have you bought? Is it a plastic, fibreglass or wood hull? Can you post a pic? We need a bit more detail please so we can give useful advice Dave

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi All The stern is finally covered in with the help of my magnet handle clamps. Fibreglass resin, filled and sanded. Spray putty/primer undercoated. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
Sorry rolfman2000 I wasn't being funny about it, you just had me wondering about it. As you say we all seem to have the same boats. I have both 34" & 46" Crash Tenders both still unmade in the boxes. A 46" to refurbish, Sea Queen and Sea Commander both again for refurbishing, 34" Huntsman and A Huntsman Hull with no top and a Perkasa hull with no top also to refurb. Sea Hornet as well as several other model boats which are fibreglass ones. And a couple of cars and planes but I still cannot fly them, I cannot get the hang of them. You can get the Sea Queen from Vintage Model boats as they are remaking it now.

Precedent Huntsman 34" by canabus Commander   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Gents I received my drive line last night and installed it and the motor mount, also added a wood block for the rudder. Fibreglass it all it. The prop is a 50mm with 4mm clearance, but, I run 40mm props on my boats this size. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi All Polyester resin uses Styrene as the solvent. Over time this evaporates and the resin becomes too thick to use for layup of fibreglass. Adding more styrene will restore the resin to its correct fluid layup state. If you use large quantities stored in large cans this is a real lifesaver. Smaller cans do not suffer quite the same as they are usually quickly used. Hope this helps your understanding of Polyester resin. Cheers Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Keep Acetone well away from your fibreglass on your boat. It will eat it away, only use it for cleaning tools. I found out the hard way. Lucky it was a very old boat and was almost beyond any more repair. No one was around to warn me.

Precedent Huntsman 34" by boaty Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
I like the Precedent Huntsman very much and I built one from the kit many years ago. It was the wooden hull version and it was quite fast with an MFA 850 Torpedo motor running on 12 volts. I sold it in 2004 and now I wish I hadnt. However I bought a 34 inch fibreglass hull this year at the Ellesmere Port show and I wondered if Precedent are still manufacturing kits as I have no plans for the superstructure. Boaty😎

Dolphin 16 (19) by AllenA Commander   Posted: 27 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Commander   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi All Sealed the forward inside with fibreglass and installed the forward deck. Canabus

eezebuild RAF tender by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 30 days ago
MDF does act like a sponge, but I would expect it to act the same with sanding sealer or fibreglass resin, don't discount it too soon👍 Cheers Wayne

Sea Queen refurbishment by canabus Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Guys Looks like we have the same boats!!! I have a Sea Hornet(built from the original plans), Crash Tender 48", Sea Commander and I bought a Precedent Huntsman 31(fibreglass hull)with building instructions. The instructions were sold as plans, but, with a lot of time with a photocopier they could be turn into plans. Or scan into AutoCAD and resized!!! My mate has a Swordsman which he finally finished after over 40 years(with plans). All the boats are running brushless motors. Canabus

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Guys Only more planking, but, I can finally start to see the hull shape. The veneer planking is dam strong and very light. The only part which I think I maybe required another stringer is the cockpit between the stringer and the sides, but, I will add some 2 ounce fibreglass matt when I resin the inside.

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I have spoken to the person who built the boat. It is based on a Vintage model boat company design. It was scratch built and is made of strips of mahogany as I originally suspected. Having looked at the Vintage model company site it most resembles a sea hornet, however another kit may have been available at the time it was made. The strips of Mahogany were the builder making use of the materials they had to hand at the time, hence the vertical strips! The interior is covered in fine fibreglass mesh and 3 thin coats of fibreglass resin. Work on the restoration continues!