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>> Home > Tags > fibreglass

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Bondo the keel! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Mornin' Ed, Not surprised that this is your last Dumas kit🤔 I recently bought the Deans Marine kit of HMS Manxman, a WW2 fast cruiser / minelayer, 1:96 53". It has a superb fibreglass hull that I can't fault and hundreds of cast resin, brass and white metal bits n pieces 😲 On the other hand the drawing supplied is a bit limited, but no sweat as I have several detail photos of the original anyway😉 Rather that way round than like Dumas! Attached are a few pics from the build instructions (there are hundreds on a CD). Good luck with the rest of your build👍 😎

It’s been a long day! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. It could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted

HS Smitzopoulos by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 27 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 64" HS Smitzopoulos Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x 720kV (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (12v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 2 x Turnigy 30A (15Amps) ESC - Comments: La Combattante IIIB Class Guided Missile boat of the Hellenic Navy. It has two brushless motor systems (each described in the table, drawing 8 amps max). All four gun turrets can rotate and the main guns can also elevate. Radars both rotate. LED running lights. Hull is from balsa and marine ply with a fibreglass skin. Deck and superstructure is balsa. Masts are from brass tube.

Juyilanga by Krampus Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
Just fresh off the shipyard, this is my version of an American made Uniflite (firm died several years ago) "Salty Dog" 28. Its name is a Puerto Rican slang for escapade. From the same firm who designed and made the legendary Vietnam War Patrol River Boat (PBR), this boat was part of Uniflite's recreational boats line. For this one, I utilized a fibreglass hull I found on Ebay and did the rest with Ethylene 2mm plastic sheets. It runs a 9.6v NiHm battery, a 30A Mtroniks controller, a 3-bladed 35mm M4 bronze propeller.

Any clues? by aanside Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I am inclined to thinking it might be a barge. It is broad in girth (like me) and fairly short bow to stern but has a hole for a bowsprit. The guy it came from has gone the way of all good sailors (off to Thailand to find a wife 😁) but his other boats are a Joffre Tug and a Smit Nederland tug (plus Pourquoi Pas from Billings) - all to appear, apparently, on Fleabay. The hull I have is a fibreglass moulding so presumably comes from a commercial source but I doubt it is a "kit" like the others. Workmanship on the capping rail and deck is a bit ropey so it will need a lot of tlc. If I can find a suitable plan to give me some thoughts it will become the next on the stocks once my Battle Class destroyer is finished.

What is this boat ????? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's fibreglass, the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck

What is this boat ????? by anchormodels Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Just purchased this lovely hull "Vintage motor launch" can anyone tell me the maker or model of this hull ?? 120cm long( quite large ) and it is made of fibreglass, Any help would be most appreciated

Vosper MTB385 by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Scratchbuilt WW2 1/24 Scale Vosper 73' Type 1 MTB. Built in 2016, in company with a friend's 1/24 scale BPB MGB. The Vosper hull is built from balsawood and fibreglass. The upper deck and superstructure is from balsawood. The weapons and fittings are from brass, aluminium and plastic. The 20mm and gunner can rotate.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
There are some fibreglass boats have them built in in fibreglass along the under side of the hull and not the side edge. Why is this. I don't understand this.

Footy by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I would say Dave, it best fits the 507 design and the rudder of a “Siren”. See my new photos to compare. The hull is fibreglass

Swordsman hull by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 3670 x2 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (14.8v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (100Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts On first test run brushed motors were very disappointing so onto plan B. Latest setup will be 2 x 3670 2100kv each with 100amp ESC. The lead acid battery made the hull very unstable so it's back to lipo batteries

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.