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>> Home > Tags > filler

wood filler
The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Mark, here's the link to the manufacturer website. Forgot to mention, the gloss white I used is also from them, from the 'belton' series. The Primer Filler and Protection Laquer are from the 'Auto K' series. Don't know if they can send paints to UK🤔 Maybe they have a British distributor? look forward to pics of the Puffer 👍 Doug 😎

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. If you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway. Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge. This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉 These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1. The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat. Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck. Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊 Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6. After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10. Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁 BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉 Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour! E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black! So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎

more progress. by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.

Clothing complete, fenders on! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
So, managed to get all the glass clothing done at work at the weekend! So far, 1 coat of resin followed by 2 thinned coats to come. Today has seen all the fenders/rubbing strakes added. It took some careful measuring to get positioned correctly but well pleased with the outcome. It paid to pre-shape them prior to fitting. I’ve added filler where needed and a couple of coats of sealer, all seems to be faired in nicely. May need some touch up after priming. Also fitted the rudder mounts as today’s final job. Tomorrow should see the prop shafts fitted, motors mounted and will make the shaft struts. Postie arrived with some RNLI resin crew figures that will add a great touch when painted.

Glass clothing commenced by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Spent most of the morning sanding, flating, sanding sealer, small amounts of filler where needle before a final coat of sealer and last sand. Left with a super smooth external hull! I’m hoping to cloth the hull in no more than 3 pieces starting with the transom as seen in the picture. Might be a bit slow next few days as back in day shift from tomorrow, might be able to sneak it into work Saturday?

Let’s make a stand! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
More progress today! First thing was to make a stand from 6mm ply and 18mm dowel using the hull templates as described in the instruction sheet. Was a good excuse to get my scroll saw going! The rear stand will have some more cut-outs to clear the prop shafts, will do that when I’ve installed them. This was followed by a very messy and dusty couple of hours sanding and flaring the hull external sheeting followed by a good dose of cheap wood filler ( £1.99 from a pound shop in stowmarket, works well, sands nice!) in any gaps, cracks and imperfections. Will leave to dry overnight before sanding back and refilling where required before a couple of coats of sanding sealer, sanding back then on with glass clothing.

Decks in, ready to sand, fill and cloth! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Been a slow few days with work and chores around the house, but managed to get in the workshop today. Fore, centre and aft decks in, nose block rough shaped and glued, gunwales fitted. I’ve faced the rear and fore deck thingys with1:32 ply for a neater finish and replaced the kit gunwale thingys with a sandwich of 1:32 ply and 1:32 balsa. Tomorrow I have a “me” day as wife at work and I’m off work, so it will be a good chance to sand hull, filler were needed, sanding sealer, more sanding ready to start glass clothing Tuesday all being well.

Planking done and other stuff’ by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing. Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength. Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.

Planking almost very nearly finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

Stern Seam! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Colin, Bondo is just automotive body filler! It's made by 3M corp. The Folks at Dumas swear by the stuff. It's ok smells a bit while it's drying though! Also there's a lot of elbow grease needed as well. 😲

Stern Seam! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Also a body filler - American P38 / Plastic Padding apparently Colin 😉

Stern Seam! by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
It's looking good so far. Please excuse my ignorance, but what is bondo. I usually use p38 filler or polyester resin for such jobs, is this the same. Keep seeing bondo mentioned so just had to ask, I'm only a beginner of fifty plus years of modeling. I'll get there one day.

Bondo the keel! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Evenin' Ed, I guess Bondo is similar to our (UK) Plastic Padding and various other products here in Germany; i.e. a two part filler with a Peroxide hardener! Cracking on application is usually an indication that too much hardener was in the mix! Too much hardener = too much oxygen (from the peroxide - that's why it's also used in rocket fuels!!) = too much heat = expansion = cracks 😡 From experience (car renovation in my youth😉) I know the stuff can get too hot to touch if you overdo the hardener! Never be tempted to 'speed things up' by adding more hardener - it usually backfires 😲 Anyway, glad you had a work around up your sleeve👍 Good luck with the next steps, cheers Doug 😎🤓 PS Dumas designs seem a bit odd if they always have such a gap!? 🤔

Bondo the keel! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
The Keel on the Brooklyn. Has a gap from where it meets the hull. It's recommended to use Bondo. Which is a auto mobile body filler! There is a lot of sanding. Required after you Bondo the hull. When I built Serenity aka Jersey City by Dumas. I remember having to do the same procedure! The folks at Dumas. Say the Bondo won't crack. Well mine did, it was a small crack. which I used zap-a-gap on!