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>> Home > Tags > filler

filler
wood filler
filler
Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Big Blue by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
quite a few years ago I was asked if I could make a model boat hull for a friends son. As then a laminator it was an easy job after making the plug to the approx specs asked for. I made the plug and mould then cast a test moulding asked if i could keep the test mould and was told by all means have one. The mould was handed over when completed and payment ect was made. The test moulding i just stuck in the loft Not knowing I would ever start modeling boats so much later in life. So Now I am into the model boats hobby. Here is the hull with twin outlets for the propshaft. And progress so far with the superstructure. Approx 51 inches long 17 inches wide and a depth of 11 inches. As I was paid to do the job nothing in the end belonged to me except the hull I was told I could have. In writing I may add.. Made a flat sheet of laminate and enclosed the whole hull on the top. Cut out an area for the superstructure and as you can see I have started a rough looking superstructure. I have no plans or drawings for this so it will go where ever it ends up I guess.. Apart from the hull I plan on using ALL recycled materials from our local tip. Paint .Plastic and everything else... The big idea apart from saving material from the tip is to make the model at the lowest possible cost. Motors and some other electrical parts will be removed and put into this model from the Ayton cross So all the parts will be transferable from model to model. Well thats the plan anyway. Guess I will have to wait and see how that goes later. Prop shafts props and rudders will be new so NOT replaceable. The timber so far a lump of 4x2 from the tip Free all cut down and sanded. The superstructure I have used a large fliptop plastic white bin from the tip again £1.00 Superglue bought from the local £1. shop. Filler and sanding paper I already have. So I have started it. I will update as I go along..

Wheelhouse roof detail....and a paint problem ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Because of the curvature of the wheelhouse roof the searchlight, mast, aerial and other fittings need some shaped wedges to sit on so that they sit vertically, this is particularly important for the searchlight as it is designed to rotate. I cut and shaped some plasticard for these and when I was happy with the angles I superglued them in place on the roof and used a small amount of filler to blend them into the roof profile. Similar spacers were made for the anchor where it sits on the forward cabin roof as well. After masking off the surrounding areas I sprayed a coat of Halfords white primer on the roofs and immediately noticed that the paint ‘crazed’ very badly for some unknown reason. I had used panel wipe to clean the roof before painting and was spraying over previous coats of the same primer so this was really disappointing to see 😭 I had to leave the paint to harden for a couple of days and set about stripping it back to the base coats as much as possible and then re-masked and sprayed again….only for the same thing to happen again 😡 This was despite pre-warming the can and shaking it thoroughly for the prescribed two minutes. To cut a long story short I discovered that the new can of white primer that I had recently purchased was faulty and it was spraying considerably more solvent/carrier than pigment and this heavy overload of solvent was the cause of the problem. Halfords replaced the paint without argument but I had to wait another couple of days before I could remove the paint and start over again for the third time. Happily the replacement paint was OK, the re-spray was successful and the final gloss coat is to a reasonable finish but the whole process set me back a couple of weekends and was a very frustrating experience 😞 An isolated case I’m sure but after previously stating that Halfords paint was OK, I now reserve my judgement and remain cautious with their paint, and I now do more test sprays just in case…..

Kingfisher progress by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Sanded off the K 3 and will apply filler tomorrow. Installed prop shaft assembly and short skew. Removal of extra threaded sectionpast prop will to done too. Must make rudder and install it, the rudder will extend out past the stern.

The fire monitors by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The fire monitors are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge nozzle (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) 🤔 Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my ‘suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint. I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge nozzle together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge nozzle also looks more authentic. The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end. The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily. I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob. The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords ‘Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss. I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.

Kingfisher progress by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Glad to have a staple gun on hand as it came in handy to close up the chine seams where my clamps could not reach. The staples get removed once the glue dries. Any suggested filler material along the seams?

Model Slipway "Maggie M" by Flack Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
For sale is my " Maggie M" kit which has to go to fund my next Lifeboat kit. The kit has everything to complete the model including a brushed MFA 919D series motor with a 2:5:1 gearbox, coupling and brass propeller but with the exception of paints, crew figures, model filler, adhesives, Tools and equipment. To complete a fully working radio controlled model a minimum 2 channel radio, speed controller and suitable battery would also be required. The kit has been started and the pictures show the work carried out. The size and weight of the packaged model will make insured post and packing expensive so local pick up is desired with payment in cash on collection, but I am prepared to arrange carriage at cost. The price is £200 ono plus p&p if required.

water proofing by rmwall107 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
hi i use Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler fills any depth dry in half an hour sands lovely.fills holes.

water proofing by jaffy012 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
hi dave can you recomend wood filler please mate

Richards 48" Swordsman by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave

water proofing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😡. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. If you send me a private message with your email address I will share. Its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave

water proofing by jaffy012 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi can anyone help me im building nordkap trawler, can anyone tell me how to waterproof inside as well as out side, and what sort of water proof wood filler, some one told me dope to do inside is correct, any help would be appreciated, colin😭

Strips by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The pictures are slightly out of sync but no matter...Now ready for the chine (cedar) and spray rails from triangular section plasticard strips glued with rubberised cyanoacrylate. Paint used was auto acrylic spray cans; lots of filler primer sanded back and a couple of topcoats.. I thought masking the waterline would be a problem but using thin lengths of blue masking tape to get the line then adding full width with paper mask, it worked out fine.

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Glyn, I use pro type car body filler, look on line for your local bodyshop supplies, they will sell you filler in any size and the hardener, far cheaper than Halfords price

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by glyn44 Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Just wondered is there a specific filler I can use to close any of the small gaps before painting?