There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!
The hobby doesn't have to cost the earth I made some ladders from welding brass filler wire, and an exhaust outlet from a draw knob I found whilst walking to the shops. Also done some additional planking using stirrer sticks from costa fortune coffee shop. (My son grabbed me a hand full enough for a life time's modelling).
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave - like the talc idea which will be next weekend as my old man is down for the weekend and we are out and about all over the place. May even get a chance on an evening if Mrs Mac allows operations in the house lol. Which will allow me to move on next weekend. Hi Doug - nothing lost in translation always intended to finish off with filler for cosmetics probably just my application and communication on here lol. I must admit that 5min stuff is bloody quick setting it is definitely PANIC it's going off NOW 😂😂😂
Hi Dave, agree with the talc idea, sometimes I file a piece of busted terracotta flower pot to powder and mix that with the resin. But usually to repair Gisela's busted garden ornaments not for boat models, but no reason why not😉 But then that's why I suggested the thicker two part glue not the liquid resin for this 'fix'. Re hardeners: as far as I know all are peroxide based but the concentration is different for the various 'speed' glues. Frankly I would have thought that the faster mix on the inside would have accelerated the outer mix, at least at the interface between the two! BTW: It was never suggested to use the epoxy as filler! The resin was just to soak and harden the balsa wedges and hold everything in place. I'm sure I wrote to the effect; when fully cured THEN use filler on the outside of the hull for the cosmetics. Something lost in interpretation?? Anyway step by step Neil is reaching his goal! 👍 @ Neil; you'll need to get a shift on with the 5 min mix! 5 mins is the hard setting time, working time before it goes too stiff to move is only about 2mins!!!🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug - you're spot on as always it was two different batches. The inside was a 5 minute working and the outside a 30 minute working type epoxy. Thinking was longer on the outside to make sure all holes were filled which has worked sort of. HI Dave - the day did it was lovely and warm so thought I'd be on a winner. I've tried a hair dryer on medium heat but the epoxy goes runny 😣😣. I think I'm going for the removal option a bit of 5 min type epoxy and then finish off with filler. There was still some space filler on the first attempt at epoxy but there'll be more this time. Thanks for advice again I will get this right 🤣🤣
Hi neil Mixture and temp are all important. You could try gentle heat from a hairdryer to harden the resin. Adding extra hardener to the mix is not advisable as it can lead to unpredictable results. Epoxy is not ideal as a filler but you can make it more suitable by adding microballoons to the mix. This will result in a very hard finish which you can sand to shape. Personally I use car body filler when fixing in prop shafts / rudder tubes etc as this can be easily faired into the hull contour and will easily take paint. I have successfully used this over epoxy joints. Whatever you use you need to make sure the work environment is not too cold. The temperatures have dropped considerably over the last few weeks so you may need to provide a warm environment to assist the curing process. Dave
Now we're getting somewhere 👍 To fix your rudder 'guide' (stock shaft) use the same technique as for the prop shaft tube. cosmetics with 2 part filler paste. He he! It's only League Bowling (first match of new season today, I averaged 187 was happy with that😊) and GF's travel wishes that get in the way for me now 😊 Lot to be said for retirement😉 Plug on Neil, cheers Doug 😎
Had some time over the last couple of days to get the Solent moving along. So, have got all the stringers in which took some time to make sure everything was square at the end. some swearing and cussing did ensue at points trying to get clamps on, nails in whilst trying the aproach of wishing I was an octopus with 8 hands! spent 2-3 hours sanding, planeing and shaping said stringers and formers to get even curves to make life easier when the sheeting started. And so the sheeting starts! My logic says sheet from the keel upwards so that by the time I get to the bulwark and overlap can be sanded before sheeting the deck. Sheet 17 went in nicely requiring just a little balsa fillet on the curve at the bow to get a nice flowing finish. My approach on the prop tunnel was to sheet with 0.8mm ply first, I will then add strength from the inside with a 1/4 balsa layer before a final layer of 0.8mm ply, should be strong! once sheeting is complete, then will be the process of filler where required, sanding, glass clothing, and a whole lot of sanding and priming.
Hi neil Good to see your are progressing. It's good to see that Paul has joined in the discussion and offered help.👍 He has a superb model at the larger scale and has been an avid supporter of Fireboats and the site since its inception. With this small model it is important to keep the weight to a minimum and whilst sealing holes with glue and filler is OK, I would go easy with soaking the wood in epoxy, it's heavy. Far better to cover with a sheet of tissue/glass cloth and apply a thin coat spread with a plastic (credit Card size) spatula to work well into the covering. It would be good to see a few pics of your whole model. Say two side views, a top view and a stern view. If you can weigh that would also be useful. Might help when you need further advice on the build Cheers Dave
HI Mate, I think you might be ambitious with the 1.5mm ply, could be too stiff to go round the corners, 1mm, would be better. As you are not planking, I would go for light glass cloth on the outer hull just for protection, small rocks or screws sticking out from a landing stage or bumps and bangs in the workshop, the glass would help to protect the hull. Lifeboats have a superb gloss, blemish free surface, so plenty of elbow grease and buckets of primer. For the topcoats, could i suggest a spray gun, not rattle cans, just for the quality of finnish, also by the time you have bought all the cans, a reasonable spray gun will work out far cheaper, particularly if you get your paint from a pro shop supplies, sandpaper, primer, filler and top colours are all far cheaper. Looking forward to the update on your build. Mark
Hi To you all thank you for the continued advice it is making life so much easier and I do like it when the thinking is done by experts. Paul The disc idea is an absolute bonus and will be using it for sure as it takes away the need for continued measurements. Dave The water scoop is going as like you and Doug say I don't need it no working monitors for me, just a working boat would be good. I'll be using measurements given to achieve shaft positioning as at the moment I have a 2 blade prop which I think is 30mm diameter so disc to suit will be used. Doug I like KISS it's worked for me loads of times in the past but I can't help buying shining things 😁😁😁 The shim idea on the prop tube is a good one but may still go for a support even though not needed it shines 🤣🤣🤣🤣. But it may still go back to the filler piece as all depends on how difficult it is to fit the A frame support. I purchased one at 8mm for the tube and not 4mm for the shaft. I'm looking forward to the weekend to get started and even set an alarm for an early start which is unusual for me. Im off to HMS Alliance as I do volunteer guiding there otherwise Id be starting now. Will keep you all posted hopefully with good news and no more questions - well on this bit anyway 🤣🤣