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>> Home > Tags > filler

wood filler
Progress! by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Had some time over the last couple of days to get the Solent moving along. So, have got all the stringers in which took some time to make sure everything was square at the end. some swearing and cussing did ensue at points trying to get clamps on, nails in whilst trying the aproach of wishing I was an octopus with 8 hands! spent 2-3 hours sanding, planeing and shaping said stringers and formers to get even curves to make life easier when the sheeting started. And so the sheeting starts! My logic says sheet from the keel upwards so that by the time I get to the bulwark and overlap can be sanded before sheeting the deck. Sheet 17 went in nicely requiring just a little balsa fillet on the curve at the bow to get a nice flowing finish. My approach on the prop tunnel was to sheet with 0.8mm ply first, I will then add strength from the inside with a 1/4 balsa layer before a final layer of 0.8mm ply, should be strong! once sheeting is complete, then will be the process of filler where required, sanding, glass clothing, and a whole lot of sanding and priming.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi neil Good to see your are progressing. It's good to see that Paul has joined in the discussion and offered help.👍 He has a superb model at the larger scale and has been an avid supporter of Fireboats and the site since its inception. With this small model it is important to keep the weight to a minimum and whilst sealing holes with glue and filler is OK, I would go easy with soaking the wood in epoxy, it's heavy. Far better to cover with a sheet of tissue/glass cloth and apply a thin coat spread with a plastic (credit Card size) spatula to work well into the covering. It would be good to see a few pics of your whole model. Say two side views, a top view and a stern view. If you can weigh that would also be useful. Might help when you need further advice on the build Cheers Dave

Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
HI Mate, I think you might be ambitious with the 1.5mm ply, could be too stiff to go round the corners, 1mm, would be better. As you are not planking, I would go for light glass cloth on the outer hull just for protection, small rocks or screws sticking out from a landing stage or bumps and bangs in the workshop, the glass would help to protect the hull. Lifeboats have a superb gloss, blemish free surface, so plenty of elbow grease and buckets of primer. For the topcoats, could i suggest a spray gun, not rattle cans, just for the quality of finnish, also by the time you have bought all the cans, a reasonable spray gun will work out far cheaper, particularly if you get your paint from a pro shop supplies, sandpaper, primer, filler and top colours are all far cheaper. Looking forward to the update on your build. Mark

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi To you all thank you for the continued advice it is making life so much easier and I do like it when the thinking is done by experts. Paul The disc idea is an absolute bonus and will be using it for sure as it takes away the need for continued measurements. Dave The water scoop is going as like you and Doug say I don't need it no working monitors for me, just a working boat would be good. I'll be using measurements given to achieve shaft positioning as at the moment I have a 2 blade prop which I think is 30mm diameter so disc to suit will be used. Doug I like KISS it's worked for me loads of times in the past but I can't help buying shining things 😁😁😁 The shim idea on the prop tube is a good one but may still go for a support even though not needed it shines 🤣🤣🤣🤣. But it may still go back to the filler piece as all depends on how difficult it is to fit the A frame support. I purchased one at 8mm for the tube and not 4mm for the shaft. I'm looking forward to the weekend to get started and even set an alarm for an early start which is unusual for me. Im off to HMS Alliance as I do volunteer guiding there otherwise Id be starting now. Will keep you all posted hopefully with good news and no more questions - well on this bit anyway 🤣🤣

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Neil I have just been and measured my 34" Fireboat. The shaft is 8" long. In situ it is 3/4" below the hull bottom and 3/4" above the hull inside. Inside the hull the shaft rests on the former aft of the original engine space The prop is a 30mm 3 blade brass. My rudder is 2" in from the hull stern. The shaft is 3 1/8" inches from the hull stern. My skeg below the hull is 1 1/4" deep as this was on the original hull I renovated. It finishes 3" from the hull stern. If you haven't already I suggest you remove the water scoop and fill the hole with dowel and filler. I agree with Doug, leave the rudder in place if the distances are similar to that I have given. Looking at your pic it would seem you will be able to raise the shaft and still have room. To do this you need to cut the shaft hole towards the stern so the shaft can be closer. Do make sure the shaft is in the centre and straight and not aligned to the off centre rudder. A small hole aft of the rudder on the centre line with a cocktail stick may help. The water pickup is about the right distance below the hull but needs removing. You do need to check inside the hull to see that there is sufficient height on the prop tube to allow for alignment with the motor and base. This is just a check, the motor can be fitted and aligned later. Looks like a nice claen hull Cheers Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Dave, forgot to mention that Marin tested the calculations and computer simulations with scale models in their 250m test tank, with good agreement. Later full size measurements in sea states 5 and 6, with variable winds and drift angles also gave good agreement. One important point though; I misread a paragraph🤔 The actual distance prop tips to rudder leading edge was 1 prop radius!! So for my Sea Scout with a 30 or 35mm prop my 17mm spacing is about right 😊 Most of the tests were actually to determine the rudder's lateral position relative to the prop shaft on multi-shaft designs and vertical position relative to hull and prop diameter. Vertical position was determined as; If possible close to the hull, in the lamina flow region and 'covering the upper 47% of the prop diameter'. In this position the effects of the drift angle in a fast turn (e.g. caused by wind at an angle to the bow and the turning of the ship itself, 'skidding') are reduced to practically zero. If the rudder covers the lower half of the prop diameter it is affected by transverse water flow across the stern, reducing manoeuvrability and increasing rudder torque and stock loading! So again Sea Scout is about right 😊 The Aerokits designers knew their stuff, or were just plain lucky! For the shaft alignment I use the balsa wedges for fine adjustments then epoxy everything in place when the ammeter tells me all is OK. Filler and cosmetic to finish off. Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Doug and Neil Fascinating details about full size props and distances. Our scaled models sail in water which is not scaled so I am not convinced the maths helps. There are many examples of Fireboats on this site and as has often been mentioned the original Aerokits were designed when IC engines were the fashion and as a result the prop shafts were at a very acute angle to accommodate the fitting of the engine. If you have an original kit model the easiest solution is to remove all the engine mounts and any oil soaked wood from the hull together with the prop shaft and tube. You can then buy a suitable motor and prop and work out the best alignment. Buy a prop shaft and tube to suit the distance and adjust the slot in the keel to allow fitment. I usually make the slot big enough to allow for alignment, you can repair any gaps later. I usually tack mine in place with small dabs of superglue to hold in place, not too much as you may need to reposition. Once all aligned you can fill the gaps as Doug says with balsa. I just use Plastic Padding car body filler, but either will work. Once all is set hard you can fettle to the keel / hull shape and make good inside the hull. Not sure which model size you have but am attaching pics of my 34" Crash tender which may help. Happy restoration Dave

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The LCM3's lower hull is now complete, I'm busy sanding & filling, I've found this "Squadron Products white putty" to be an excellent filler for 3D prints. This weekend I've completed 5 pieces of the upper hull, things are looking good for an epic super gluing session next weekend, after Haydock 😂👍 Cheers Wayne

Deck Veener by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Canabus Still not sure what Type of glue this is so difficult to give help on repair. I suspect the filler may have been nearer the edge at the front, (prow) allowing the varnish to get into the joint. If it has delaminated perhaps you can ease the rest off and reapply or make a new piece. Out of interest what type of glue is Tassie Tiger? Dave

Deck Veener by canabus Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All I used the same glue on the stern over filler, no problem. It's not the Tassie Devil, they are all noise, it's my mate's Tassie Tiger!!! Canabus

Deck Veener by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Canabus Thats a bummer. I can't find any mention of the glue you used to fix the outer planking in your earlier posts. I did notice you had used a ply deck but was there some plastic filler on the front part? Some glues are not good at sticking plastic. What varnish did you use? I suspect the solvent in the varnish has softened and weakened the glue. The initial coat would have done the damage with the solvent working its way into the joint over a few days as it dried. These things come to try our patience but I am sure if you give it enough thought you will find a way to repair and learn from the process. Good luck and please keep us posted with progress Dave

3d printing by marky Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
brilliant bit of printing Wayne ,i will see if Ricky will let me take some pictures of his medical stuff ,i think his printer cost around 85K its multi headed and can mix the filler to different constituancies so he can print for example a car with rubber tyres

Precedent Huntsman 34" by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All Repaired one of the broken cabin pieces under the aft side window and added strengthen timber forward and aft(windows). The gap under the windows to the deck, I laid down two layers of masking tape and mixed up some Selley's Plasti-bond. Pushed the cabin onto this and waited for it to harden. Removed cabin, removed the masking tape, sand the areas and spray filler undercoated. A nice clean gap!!! Canabus

Cabin Repair by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All Started on fixing the bits I broke in removing the old paint. The forward window had a gap in the middle to the deck, so I added timber behind the bottom of the window and filled in the gap. Masking tape to the deck and combing, a lump of filler, sit the cabin down and wait for the filler to dry. Remove cabin, masking tape, trim and sand down. As the aft of the cabin sits over the deck a fair bit, I added a plywood piece back to the combing so to strengthen the aft cabin area and replaced the bottom section under one of the windows. Remodelling this boat and building the SG&K 1920 Gentleman's Runabout is keeping me busy!!! This retirement is great, but, I still liked my old job. Canabus

Stabilit Express by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I had one on my Rover 2000, hanging out of the tank filler 😁 Started with one on my Vespa GS 160 😉