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>> Home > Tags > fire boat

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Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
We have managed to cut and remove the tree with the help of local farmer and his telehandler. Son has put scaffolding all round the building now and is starting to remove sections of the collapsed roof, with a bit of luck should be able to see inside tomorrow. Son thinks that my working area seems to be the worst affected area by he said there seems to be a couple of boats on the floor in the corner. So fingers crossed something has survived. There were eight boats undergoing repairs, my wife's swordsman, and her two launches, a Norstar Fireboat, a sea commander, a 48" bounty waiting for rigging, my dads old Sea Queen, and a 34" Huntsman having a repaint. As for insurance, mine said I should claim on the trees owner as it wasn't mine. Might be a problem there it was on communal land owned by housing association. Anyway not much I can do till its safe to go in. Must say my son and his two mates haven't stopped from 8-00 this morning till now. By for now Colin.

Display stand and transport case. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Shaun. It was a great pleasure meeting you too, and thanks for the cuppa and the chat 🍵😁👍. I hope you have been reading and enjoying my fireboat build blog and comparing notes. Good luck fitting the hatch magnets. Rob.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi neil Good to see your are progressing. It's good to see that Paul has joined in the discussion and offered help.👍 He has a superb model at the larger scale and has been an avid supporter of Fireboats and the site since its inception. With this small model it is important to keep the weight to a minimum and whilst sealing holes with glue and filler is OK, I would go easy with soaking the wood in epoxy, it's heavy. Far better to cover with a sheet of tissue/glass cloth and apply a thin coat spread with a plastic (credit Card size) spatula to work well into the covering. It would be good to see a few pics of your whole model. Say two side views, a top view and a stern view. If you can weigh that would also be useful. Might help when you need further advice on the build Cheers Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks for everything tonight learning more each time I'm on here and at the moment its keeping me out of trouble😁😁😁 Paul - I was looking through my bits of paperwork today and found a letter from Peter when I joined this site 6 years ago - yes that's how I've been going on this project. The letter was to do with the actual fireboat and what colour grey was used so at one point I was quite far on. Then it all went wrong with delamination of the plywood and major misalignment issues. Peter was a great a guy and really helpful

Display stand and transport case. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
don't know why I thought you where lake district? Yeah, I went to the first few, out Derby way, it was great fun, run by the God of Fireboats, Peter Dimberline, but then other boats crept in, and the theme was lost. This website was originally only for aerokits Fireboats, but had to grow to survive, as we are the few!

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Neil, the suggestions about prop support are all valid, just different takes on things. I would (if you intend to repaint the hull) sand off to key, or prime the old paint prior to installing the shaft, as it will be easier to repaint and prep. Question, sorry if I missed this, is that a new shaft with new bearings? If not get new from shg marine (they are at the Blackpool, show, and the midlands engineering show if you can get to either, I'm not sure where you are?) they are dirt cheap, called aceteal or something similar, they water lubricate, and cost about £2 each. Roll the inner shaft on a piece of glass or a mirror, this will tell you if its bent, any sign of this, get a new one, or you might have alignment and vibration issues. (glass is totally flat! there's a free tip to test you prop shafts ha ha !!👍) same can be bought from shg, and get stainless. Back to the support, the thing Dave mentions is a piece of wood that fits between the hull, and the shaft. The shaft is then epoxied to this, giving support, but it wont be true to original. You have the original support, so remodel this to fit your new angle. If you use any bolts etc to secure, use stainless so they don't rust. Once painted, it will be hidden, and its underneath anyway so cant be seen. It will need to be tight to the outershaft, once positioned, you could solder, as they are both brass, and either feed into the hull bend over and epoxy, or screw as per original. Here is my big fireboat, its twin, but the concept is the same, the support came into the hull, and on this example, I put a brass pin through, and epoxied it all

Display stand and transport case. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Paul. Blackpool show? It will be a bit too far 'up country' for me (London boy) anyway. What ever happened to the "Fireboat Day" that might be a good thing to do if anything.

Display stand and transport case. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
I love boxes! Kind of "finishes things off", especially as I knock things about with my clumsy hands, 😁 Now stop chickening out, and get it dunked😜 Are you going to Blackpool? All being well I'm going, we can have a Fireboat special handshake club!😉

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Neil I have just been and measured my 34" Fireboat. The shaft is 8" long. In situ it is 3/4" below the hull bottom and 3/4" above the hull inside. Inside the hull the shaft rests on the former aft of the original engine space The prop is a 30mm 3 blade brass. My rudder is 2" in from the hull stern. The shaft is 3 1/8" inches from the hull stern. My skeg below the hull is 1 1/4" deep as this was on the original hull I renovated. It finishes 3" from the hull stern. If you haven't already I suggest you remove the water scoop and fill the hole with dowel and filler. I agree with Doug, leave the rudder in place if the distances are similar to that I have given. Looking at your pic it would seem you will be able to raise the shaft and still have room. To do this you need to cut the shaft hole towards the stern so the shaft can be closer. Do make sure the shaft is in the centre and straight and not aligned to the off centre rudder. A small hole aft of the rudder on the centre line with a cocktail stick may help. The water pickup is about the right distance below the hull but needs removing. You do need to check inside the hull to see that there is sufficient height on the prop tube to allow for alignment with the motor and base. This is just a check, the motor can be fitted and aligned later. Looks like a nice claen hull Cheers Dave

new brighton model boat lake by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
New Brighton (Wirral), Hoylake, West Kirby (Ashton Park) Gautby Road (Birkenhead) all on the Wirral Peninsula, and all within 30 mins of each other, are public lakes, anyone can sail on them, with the exception of ic and I believe only NB allows steam. Gautby road will allow ic, they have a club that races there on certain days. Out of courtesy, if the clubs are in attendance, its nuce to say hello. Ashton Park is an ornamental lake with wildlife, so sailing area is a bit restricted, and you can get a lot of public "tut tuts" if sailing in nesting season etc. This lake might have private permission, and tbh isn't worth the mither when the other lakes are so close. Gautby road is by far the best, however in an area that attracts a load of kids, and the odd "tinny" drinker. I go there with an eye to the surroundings, if you know what I mean, its got one way in, one way out, but is a fantastic lake with water that is right to the top. Hop through the Mersey tunnel, and you also have newshaw Park in Liverpool, 20 mins away, big lake with a club, and public. We are well served in this area👍 To give you an idea of the lakes My 4 ft Fireboat at Hoylake (that box has now been removed) My 4 ft Huntsman at Gautby Road (not great quality sorry)

General sailing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors want) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) overnight is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets! Cheers Doug 😎

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Just had a quick Google as I was not sure of the size. There was the very same item on our For Sale section 5 years ago: "Deans Marine 1/24th Scale British Power Boat Co. Seaplane Tender Includes JP Power 400 Motor, Deans (MTronics) ESC, 5Cell NiMh Battery." That being the case any small brushless 28XX size with a Kv of around 1000 and 30 amp esc and 30 -35 mm 3 blade brass prop should suffice. I have similar in my 34" Fireboat and use an 11.1v Lipo. If you are new to LiPo you do need a dedicated LiPo charger and be aware that unlike other battery technology they pack a very heavy punch. You must follow the charging regime to the letter and make sure you do not overdischarge when running the model. There are some rather frightening U-tube videos of what happens if you ignore the rules! That said I have been using LiPos for several years now without any major problem, but I am always aware of the risks and make sure I don't take any unnecessary risks Good luck Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug and Neil Fascinating details about full size props and distances. Our scaled models sail in water which is not scaled so I am not convinced the maths helps. There are many examples of Fireboats on this site and as has often been mentioned the original Aerokits were designed when IC engines were the fashion and as a result the prop shafts were at a very acute angle to accommodate the fitting of the engine. If you have an original kit model the easiest solution is to remove all the engine mounts and any oil soaked wood from the hull together with the prop shaft and tube. You can then buy a suitable motor and prop and work out the best alignment. Buy a prop shaft and tube to suit the distance and adjust the slot in the keel to allow fitment. I usually make the slot big enough to allow for alignment, you can repair any gaps later. I usually tack mine in place with small dabs of superglue to hold in place, not too much as you may need to reposition. Once all aligned you can fill the gaps as Doug says with balsa. I just use Plastic Padding car body filler, but either will work. Once all is set hard you can fettle to the keel / hull shape and make good inside the hull. Not sure which model size you have but am attaching pics of my 34" Crash tender which may help. Happy restoration Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Dave, I don't propose to glue to paint! That's a lesson we learn as children with plastic kits 😉 I clean both sides first. Fitting portholes from inside the destroyer hull would have been impossible. There's also many more of 'em than on your average Fireboat or similar🤔 Patience is, or becomes, a virtue! Doug 😎 PS I know you had quite a few in your Titanic, but bigger than the 1/4" portholes in my destroyer. Did you do them individually or in strips?

1956 by marky Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 20"/900g 1956 - Comments: Eezibuild 50+RAF fire rescue boat ,laser cut from 3mm MDF oak decks ,don't know if there was a fire boat numbered 1956 but it was a good year so that's the number decided the fire sign and numbers should be air force blue laser cut from photographic paper ,vents were 3D printed still some finishing touches