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>> Home > Tags > fire boat

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Fire boat by scout13 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 hours ago
talking about the real boat as I don't want to do a planked deck if the real one was not planked same with hull was it diagonal planked or alloy Yours Scout

Fire boat by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Sorry Scout, can you be a bit more specific??? Mark

Fire boat by scout13 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 12 hours ago
can anyone please tell me what the hull was made from and was the deck planked or just flat Yours Scout

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
HI JJ. Your question about a safety bag, Damaged / overcharged lipo's can catch fire, think of the Boeing scandal that grounded the fleet last year. Charging in a safety bag is advised the bag is fire retardant material, which will contain any problem. Your remarks about the boat not coming onto the plane is down to the weight of the battery, my fireboat started with 7.2v NimH packs 1 for each motor, Graupner 700bb's, good cruise but not quick, but short run time, 10mins. I have re-wired to allow 3s lipo's, but not had chance to test it yet, but should go like stink. With a fast hull, weight is important, 4 x lipo packs, 1kg, half the weight and possibly 6 times the power delivery. In your first post you mention 600 motors on 6volts, they are probably rated at 8.4volts, same as my 700's hence the lack of performance, also the battery, at 12ah it should last about 30mins, was it fully charged??? and is it showing at least 6volts, ie not got a duff cell??? Canabus, in his post described an ideal set up with brushless motors, 1600 watts is just over 2 hp, 750 per horsepower so you can see the difference in performance with different motors and battery set up's

Voltage step down by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Brian, I would suggest 2 x 6volt NimH cell packs with a parallel 'Y' lead, the reason is you can use each pack to alter the trim of the hull. with a big hull like the Fire Boat, you could even put 4 x 6v cells in for longer duration. a single 12v does not give you a lot of maneuvering room regards balance etc. I have just changed my 48" Fireboat to 3s lipo's from 7.2v NimH packs, this is with Graupner 700bb motors with twin 50mm 3 blade brass props, not tested yet due to poor weather and shift patterns, but it sounds great on the bench. Mark

Fire boat by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2000g Fire boat Direct Drive Controlled Through Mitronix ESC - Comments: This is my first attempt of restoration couldn’t of done it without help of the model boat community

Ellesmere Port model boat lake by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Paul yeah all good will post a picture of the fire boat it’s done 😁 yeah the pool is temporary we have took it down now but it will be back up in March I think. The pool is going to be bigger next year. Hooton is a great venue to be honest. Have a look at the photo it was taken at the beginning of the year mate.

Ellesmere Port model boat lake by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi George, nice to hear from you, dare I ask you have the Fireboat any further on yet!😁 Nice site at Hooton Hangers, but my understanding from epm's post is it was a temporary pool and not there now? I was hoping they had a lake, it would have been a spectacular site. I recall that there was some sailing years ago in raddle wharf on the other side of the museum, over by the hotel. Nice venue again, but very very deep and launching was a problem. Shame to see a club struggling for a venue

1/30 scale decals/stickers by benidormbob Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi, I'm looking for some 1/30 scale decals/transfers for my Loschkreuzer Weser fire boat. I have tried ebay and just about every where else I can to no avail. There are plenty about for train related signs/loco names etc but nothing fire related. Any help would be great. Thank you

1/30 scale fireman figures by benidormbob Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi, I'm looking for some 1/30 scale fire fighting figures for my Loschkreuzer weser fire boat please. I have looked on ebay and other places to no avail. Any help would be appreciated Thank you😁

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Richard I'm going to be blunt here, no intention to offend, but, You get a donation of some random ancient 4BA prop, you are no further on, as you are stuck with one prop. You have yet to decide which size prop will suit, and, as time goes by, and you consider updating your drive train, that 4BA is going to continually hold you back. Get it out, a new propshaft, 4mm, or even 5mm (all my boats run 5mm) might even fit your original outershaft and away you go. Slightly off topic, but, the cost of very average brushed motors and yesterday technology is now more expensive than Brushless, which is way more efficient, I wonder how much longer the model shops can survive touting this over priced dated equipment, RC Boats is the only RC discipline holding on to this out of date technology. Back on topic!🤐 You could also see if you have any room to cut the threaded end off, and visit the local engineering shop, get them to thread the end 4mm or whatever suits. I remember beiung in exactly the same position on my first serious boat, my 36" aerokits Fireboat, build in the sixties by my uncle. I was with my mate, and mentor, having the exact same conversation, I was holding on, saying I'm not changing the shaft, he dropped something on the floor, I bent down, when I stood up, he had a pair of molegrips dragging the propshaft out, I could have cried, but never looked back. I then did extensive testing with a load of cheap props, and when I got it sorted, treated myself to a real nice brass prop, size based on the testing results👍

Re Boat Harbour entries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Agreed Stephen and Dave, no one wants to dictate to anyone! This is a 'fun' site after all.😉 Figtree and I were simply trying to animate folks to supply some useful info (as Dave also tried when I first started this thread) not just a boat name to get some points! At least the boat/ship type (tug, fireboat, Sea ***, whatever ..) would be nice. It's so frustrating and disappointing to see a Harbour Post notification, go online, and then find that there's little or no info and no pic 🤔 As a first step how about modifying the 'Add your model boat button', see example in the attached pics! Cheers Doug 😎

Re Boat Harbour entries by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug, Not sure why people are posting Harbour Entries without photos! Maybe they don't know any better! It should be a requirement to have a picture before you can post to Harbour Entries. I'm looking into having it as a requirement. must bring this up to the attention of Fireboat....

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ