[Score: 10/10] 38" Trojan Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronic ESC - Comments: Trojan is a graupner Tito Nero kit. Working fire monitors and now thuster. Twin shirtless drives give excellent manoeuvrability.
[Score: 10/10] 32"/4500g Sprinkles Capable of 3mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Geared to a Electrofly (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (9.6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper ESC - Comments: Sprinkles is a scratch built U.S. Coast Guard PWB, patrol waterways boat. Operating features include; searchlight and running lights, revolving blue emergency light, rotating radar, and a water monitor that fires 10-15 feet and can I studied various styles of water monitors and finally decided on one that is a composite of several types. Bending the tubing was difficult, nozzle was made on Unimat. Power is from Sig "gas passer" pump. I purchased the rotating beacon on ebay and power is from 5V voltage regulator.
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight. When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍 "All from Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch" I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!! This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! It needs more than my cabin Cruiser! For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉 I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. In a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper! Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. It comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat! Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!! The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR! The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions; fire monitors, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍 By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King. (You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!) Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)
Most of the companies you have mentioned tend to rebadge third party suppliers hardware, and put their own firmware on it. Flysky and Turnigy normally won't work together, but, if you install Turnigy with Turnigy, or Flysky with Flysky, it will work. I have successfully "updated" Turnigy receivers with Flysky firmware updates to enable me to use them with my Flysky Transmitter. My next job is to hack my Flysky GT3-B to increase to 8 channels and ppm transmission, so I can install an 8 channel receiver on my 46" fire tender (sound, directional working fire monitors, etc). Hopefully doing it sometime next week. Progress reports as(or if) I make any 😨 Best wishes, Dave W 😊
Hi Allenrod. Perhaps if I ever do a refit on this model I might consider working fire monitors but as it was never part of my original plan it would be very difficult to incorporate now. Besides, I have had my brother doing a little bit more brass turning for me as you will soon see in some forthcoming posts.😉 Rob.
Hi Rob, They look great your attention to detail is amazing, with this in mind I wonder if you had considered working fire monitors?, from one of your last posts I seem to remember your brother is good with a lathe, keep up the good work it is so interesting, I hope one day to have a go at this build when SWMBO decides to release a bit of cash !!!! Thanks for a great blog with great ideas, Allen R
The fire monitors are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge nozzle (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) 🤔 Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my ‘suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint. I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge nozzle together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge nozzle also looks more authentic. The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end. The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily. I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob. The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords ‘Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss. I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.
In between coats of black paint there’s time to prepare more of the white metal deck fittings. They all require a bit of a clean up to remove casting lines and flash, and this is easy to do with an assortment of small files, blades and a small suede shoe brush with brass wire ‘bristles’. After a quick clean up with panel wipe I fixed them all to a piece of card with small strips of double sided foam tape to stop them getting blown around by the pressure of the spay can and gave them a couple of light coats of etch primer. To assemble the anchor I used some 2mm brass rod with some brass ends made from some larger diameter brass rod, drilled and filed to a pleasing profile, a bit of plasticard was added to neaten the pivot point and the assembly was also given a coat of etch primer. The cooling water outlet tube and flange and the dummy exhaust ports (adapted portholes) were primed also. They’ll get a coat of black gloss before they are fixed to the stern. I’ll tackle the fire monitors next…
[Score: 5/10] 31" Shell Pioneer Twin Propellors (4 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2x MFA940051LN (4 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 3xViper 15A (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is my first working RC build but here goes. A bit vauqe about the fiqures because we are still on the slipway. It is scratch built from the Phil Thomas drawing "Shell Pioneer" Twin prop with Kort nozzle steering, bow thruster, working fire monitors and lights. Throtle & steering control via Action Electronics P40E mixer. 2x 2S25C4000mA lipoly's. 6 Ch radio (4 used). draws around 4.5A hope to get 30min run time minimum. Third ESC for bow thruster.
If you have no radio gear consider the taranis 16 channels free mixing and excellent range. Right now you will have no use for that many control functions BUT sooner or later you will want more, ( turning on and off sounds, lights, fire monitors, radar scanners etc.) You could steer the fire monitor so it would be possible to sail up to small boys then SQUIRT them !!!!!!
Modified HegI Fairplay V tug built by My late Father. Mods include bigger 65mm Prop in a brass kort nozzle, working fire monitors, lights, radar, engine sound and grappling hooks to rescue nitro boats. Built 1980-81.
UPaul, That's a nice boat - and a nice build.... Don't be shy of asking a decent figure for it, it may be a model but even these can reach high build cost figures. In 2012 I completed my 46" fire boat after some 14 months work and expenditure of near GBP 2,000! Built using a glass hull the rest is scratch built using copies of Vosper drawings, the vessel is complete with wheelhouse instrumentation & furniture, First-Aid room with bunks, blankets & pillows - & F/Aid Cabinet, steps leading up to deck, on-deck equipment includes working rescue ladder, hoist Derek, boat hook, working fire monitors, stowed life rings, working Nav lights, folding mast, scale Hard Suction Hoses and threaded inlet, Tow hook, Rescue Nets, etc. & Many more small parts, Twin electric propulsion with brass scale exhaust outlets..... and on...... Jim Trying to upload photos but 'drop-down' box covers Submit Changes button!
Removal of the engine block looks tricky if one thinks about chiseling it out but on my 34" that I originally built in 1963 and fitted an ED Sea Otter 3.46 diesel I found that a hot air gun set to V hot and waved around the block got it free within five minutes- without anymore bashing. I've restored the boat and changed to electric propulsion using Johnson 980 motor... Boat comes 2/3rds out of water to amidships now. Actually I've restored two 34" fireboats and since scratch built the 46" FB but using a fibreglass hull, the 46" job has fitted out wheelhouse, ditto first aid room, working lights and monitors and is powered by two Johnson 980 motors. Jim